Some Times I get board 2

[Skrathe]

Building a cheap system for a bar that I like to frequent.

Something similar to this first picture except not two player, and not vertical, and not a JAMMA board.

First attempt at SketchUp so if you got some advice or just want to point and laugh feel free.

I wish I would have used it on my pedestal. So many hours of trial and error/

I was thinking of using Cedar Plywood from home depot. I would like to stay away from laminate on the edges. 

Has any one tried to sand and stain the edges of this stuff? Just curious how it looks.

[Green Giant]

Is there a reason you want it flat and not in the more traditional bartop format you can find in many different projects?

That design lends itself to becoming a giant coaster.

[Skrathe]

Yep. They don't have a lot of surface area at the place so if they want to hang it on the wall and use Bluetooth controllers they can. Or if I get motivated and I put HDMI output on it they can just use it as a console and plug it into the tv and hang it on the wall. Plus if they break it I can charge free beer for as long as it takes me to fix it. I also haven't seen a lot of bar tops in this style so I figured I would test it out and it fits in a 2' x 4' chunk of wood.

[Green Giant]

I can't remember who, but someone on here has created wall mounted mini-cabinets.  They look like they are exploding from the wall, but they take up very little space.  They are at the right height for people to play standing up since you just need some bolts in the wall.  Hopefully someone else knows exactly which project that was.

[talkgeek]

I can't remember who, but someone on here has created wall mounted mini-cabinets.  They look like they are exploding from the wall, but they take up very little space.  They are at the right height for people to play standing up since you just need some bolts in the wall.  Hopefully someone else knows exactly which project that was.

" Out of Wall Space" http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,141265.0.html by 2084

[Token]

I was thinking of using Cedar Plywood from home depot. I would like to stay away from laminate on the edges. 

Has any one tried to sand and stain the edges of this stuff? Just curious how it looks.

Home Depot sells 3/4" iron-on wood veneer that is stainable. If you use less than 3/4" thick ply, you can flush trim it at a very slight bevel with a utility knife and nobody is getting their fingernails under there to peel it back.

[Skrathe]

I can't remember who, but someone on here has created wall mounted mini-cabinets.  They look like they are exploding from the wall, but they take up very little space.  They are at the right height for people to play standing up since you just need some bolts in the wall.  Hopefully someone else knows exactly which project that was.

" Out of Wall Space" http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,141265.0.html by 2084

2084 has made some awesome wall mounted cabinets.

One of the main reasons I didn't go with that style is I didn't want the added cost to do a marquee, graphics, lighting.

Another reason is I tend to make things heavier then they need to be and I think the small box shape will limit that to a minimum.

I was thinking of using Cedar Plywood from home depot. I would like to stay away from laminate on the edges. 

Has any one tried to sand and stain the edges of this stuff? Just curious how it looks.

Home Depot sells 3/4" iron-on wood veneer that is stainable. If you use less than 3/4" thick ply, you can flush trim it at a very slight bevel with a utility knife and nobody is getting their fingernails under there to peel it back.

Thanks Token, I will have to watch some videos and try some test strips to see if I have the required skills needed to perform this task.

My worry is that I'll jack up the other surfaces of the wood.

My other concern is how well does the glue work?

Once the wood comes in I'll give it a shot.

[Skrathe]

Any one have experience with 1/2" Ply?

I don't want to have exterior screw holes but I'm worried about the structural integrity with the walls being so thin.

Any suggestion?

[Vigo]

Good quality 1/2" ply is really strong stuff. A combination of screws and wood glue will give you the strength you are needing.

Of course, you can always go exterior screw and not worry too much, the surface is easier to cover up on ply than mdf. Another blunt solution is big old lag bolts, They are not out of place, commercial cabs like the classic taito cabinet used lag bolts right out the side, and I always thought it still looked just fine.

[Skrathe]

Good quality 1/2" ply is really strong stuff. A combination of screws and wood glue will give you the strength you are needing.

Of course, you can always go exterior screw and not worry too much, the surface is easier to cover up on ply than mdf. Another blunt solution is big old lag bolts, They are not out of place, commercial cabs like the classic taito cabinet used lag bolts right out the side, and I always thought it still looked just fine.

I like your idea of lag bolts. That reminds me I have something similar to this that I could probably use.

 

[yotsuya]

Sometimes you get board? Sometimes I get wood.

[johnrt]

Sometimes I get wood.

Too much information! 

[Skrathe]

Sometimes you get board? Sometimes I get wood.

I think we did this already.

[yotsuya]

Sometimes you get board? Sometimes I get wood.

I think we did this already.

I don't recall if we did or not, but that's the first thing that pops in my head every time I see this title bumped.

[EvilNuff]

...Has any one tried to sand and stain the edges of this stuff? Just curious how it looks.

You can see a project with exposed plywood, albeit higher quality stuff than home depot sells, here:

Check around 6:50 for some examples.

[Skrathe]

I got wood and stuff. 

Pic 1 is the cedar project panels from home depot. It is a beautiful piece of wood it does have some knots I quite like the look of them except for the larger ones that are missing entirely so all you see is glue where the knot is supposed to be. I think I'll be able to work around most of them hopefully.  $24.95
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Columbia-Forest-Products-1-2-in-x-2-ft-x-4-ft-PureBond-Aromatic-Cedar-Plywood-Project-Panel-2090/204311257

Pic 3 is the free Dell monitor I gutted for the project. I cant remember the model but it had speakers on it so that's one thing I won't have to deal with.

Pic 4 are the furniture screws form Mc Master carr. $5.65 25Pak
http://www.mcmaster.com/#90835a108/=z9szgv

Pic 5 panel mount USB ports. I'm a big fan of this product they have all sorts of different ports. I think they are for boats or something. $13.99
http://www.amazon.com/MXtechnic-Meter-Female-Extension-Motorcycle/dp/B00XL09YLW/ref=sr_1_6/181-4925181-0423655?ie=UTF8&qid=1444278808&sr=8-6&keywords=panel+mount+usb+port

Pic 6 Tiny forstner bit for pic 7 tiny buttons for the start, select and hotkey buttons. I feel compelled to use the LED's in the buttons but don't want to add another power supply. I'll have to see where I can pull it from. $8.37 and $3.98
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P4LLBI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q84RDU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

Pic 8 Cheap USB encoder for the controls. $10.00 ebay easy to find.

Pic 9 I also modified the GPIO on the Pi in order to plug an old ATX ribbon cable from a floppy drive onto it. Still not sure what rout I will use. I'll probably use the encoder but test out the ribbon cable I have some friends that are interested in making something similar so if I can work out how to use the ribbon cable it could save them ten bucks.

Pic 11 simple fused on/off switch. $5.85
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

Pic 12 Some Ausi buttons. I was looking for something with a low profile in order to make the box as thin as possible. I was looking forward to using them until I got them. The manufacturing tolerances are crap they have a sloppy feel and approximately a 1/16" gap around the plunger. So unless I feel motivated to customize the Happs ones I have I'll have to add a bit of space.

[Skrathe]

pic

[Skrathe]

I paid a plywood company by my house to do most of the cuts.

The first pic is the type of cuts I got back.

Lucky I had some scrap left over and a lovely wife that allowed me to purchase a cheap table saw.

[Skrathe]

So close.

[Skrathe]

Time for sanding and staining.

Not sure the best way to mount all the components.

I don't really want to make any more holes on the outside of it.

[jlfreund]

I paid a plywood company by my house to do most of the cuts.

The first pic is the type of cuts I got back.

Lucky I had some scrap left over and a lovely wife that allowed me to purchase a cheap table saw.

Looking good - I really like the concept and the fact that you're designing the form to match a specific purpose (a bar without enough space for a bartop).  Not a fan of seeing the machine screw heads around the outside of the cabinet though  

I'm curious where you're doing the build?  The photo looks like a professional garage or workshop.  Maybe that's why the wife didn't mind buying a table saw that won't be lying around the house

[Skrathe]

Looking good - I really like the concept and the fact that you're designing the form to match a specific purpose (a bar without enough space for a bartop).  Not a fan of seeing the machine screw heads around the outside of the cabinet though  

Furniture screws. That means it's fancy.

I'm curious where you're doing the build?  The photo looks like a professional garage or workshop.  Maybe that's why the wife didn't mind buying a table saw that won't be lying around the house

I work in a metal shop and got stuck opening the shop for some people, so I decided to take the project to work.

As for the table saw it is currently folded up in the back of my truck haven't made room in the shed yet.