Co-op Classics conversion project

[JoeStrout]

OK, I am officially launching my "Co-op Classics" project!  This will be a 4-player machine adapted from an empty Gauntlet Legends cabinet, and the focus will be on providing a small number of multiplayer cooperative games, namely:

• Gauntlet II
• Rampage
• Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles
• Simpsons
• Dungeons & Dragons: Shadow over Mystara

The idea is that the boys (who will be 11 and 15 years old by the time this is done) will have friends over, and they can all have fun playing together (without the kids who own the machine stomping all over the kids who have never played before).

Here's the cabinet, shortly after we got it home (er, but after rearranging the button colors the way we want them):


It's not completely empty; the power supply and controls appear to be in good shape.  But there are no electronics, and no screen:


Finally, here's a shot of the inside of the control panel.  The button switches are still detached.  We decided to rewire, so we'll get back to that as soon as some parts arrive.  (And yes, the wiring looks considerably neater in this state than it does when everything is plugged in!)

[JoeStrout]

So here's the plan:

• Controls: keep this hardware, but rearrange the joysticks to match the new color pattern, and add one more button to each position (for playing D&D); then wire everything neatly to a U-HID.
• Cabinet: patch, sand, remove stickers, & repaint.
• Artwork: I'm talking to some artists now about commissioning some "Co-Op Classics" marquis and side art; also need to talk to the spouse about color schemes.
• Display: we'll make do with a 20" 4:3 LCD monitor initially, but later plan to get a 40" TV and mount it vertically (which will take some hacking inside the cabinet, but I think we can do it).
• Computer: still debating between Raspberry Pi and a Mac Mini.  We've gotten MAME working on both; the Mac is much easier to work with, but plays MAME no better than the RPi once it's all set up, so... dunno.

Currently in progress:

• Ordered parts to make U-HID cables from Pololu (we'll have one harness for each player station).
• Ordered Torx security bits so I can remove the CP overlay.
• Starting to look into sticker removal.

[stigzler]

Good renovation. What's this?:

[JoeStrout]

Ah, that's the marquee, which is still lying down flat against the top of the cab.  I need to get a T-27 driver to remove the bolts holding it down, then I can rotate it up and bolt it back into position.



So I guess that's another item for the to-do list, though it should be a pretty trivial one.

[stigzler]

Oh.. rather predictably, I'm gonna have to say:

[reptileink]

Don't forget NBA Jam, NFL Blitz, and of course, X-Men

[JoeStrout]

Don't forget NBA Jam, NFL Blitz, and of course, X-Men

X-Men... YES!  I never played that one much (think it was after my time) but it fits perfectly well with our theme.  I'll have to dope-slap myself for not thinking of it.

NBA and NFL... meh.

[harveybirdman]

Sengoku 3
Knights of the Round
Gaia Crusaders
Double Dragon
Battle Circuit
Captain Commando
Final Fight
Aliens vs Predator
Armored Warriors
B Rap Boys
Crystal of Kings
Golden Axe
Golden Axe RODA
Oriental Legend
Warriors of Fate

If you have new MAME and your computer is fast

The Gladiator Road of the Sword
Knights of Valour series

[JoeStrout]

Sorry, I should have mentioned that I'm only taking games that support at least 3 co-op players (preferably 4 — but I'll make an exception for Rampage!).  EDIT: And, only games I've actually heard of (my machine, I get to define what "classics" means to me ).

I do appreciate the suggestions, though!

[opt2not]

Sorry, I should have mentioned that I'm only taking games that support at least 3 co-op players (preferably 4 — but I'll make an exception for Rampage!).  EDIT: And, only games I've actually heard of (my machine, I get to define what "classics" means to me ).

I do appreciate the suggestions, though!

The Combatribes!  (A pretty deep beat-em-up for it's time)  It supports 3 players and is tough as nails.

[Malenko]

if only someone made a wiki page listing all the 3 and 4 player games...............

[opt2not]

But then how would we pad our post counts? 

[dmckean]

But then how would we pad our post counts? 

+1 

[Malenko]

http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Multi-Player_Games

[PL1]

Sorry, I should have mentioned that I'm only taking games that support at least 3 co-op players (preferably 4 — but I'll make an exception for Rampage!).  EDIT: And, only games I've actually heard of (my machine, I get to define what "classics" means to me ).

I do appreciate the suggestions, though!

You may want to check out Malenko's Multi-Player Games list here.   


Scott

[JoeStrout]

So, yesterday we managed to get those *@#! c-rings off the bottoms of the joysticks, and cleaned and rearranged them.



So we've got the colors arranged the way we want.  We still need to add a fourth button for each station, for use with D&D.  So I guess ordering four new buttons (and hopefully matching the color and style) is high on my to-do list.  And we have to decide where this fourth button is going to go... as the current three are arranged, I work the top two with my index and middle finger, and the bottom ("Turbo") button with my thumb.  That doesn't lend itself very well to a fourth.  But I think we can make it work; here's the D&D control panel:




So, if we add the 4th button to the right of the "turbo" button, and then shifted up towards the other two, we'll have an approximate diamond quite similar to this.

[Malenko]

So, if we add the 4th button to the right of the "turbo" button, and then shifted up towards the other two, we'll have an approximate diamond quite similar to this.

Just to make you aware , That D&D panel is a konami conversion and not dedicated.

[JoeStrout]

Oh yeah, I wanted to add that there is a ton of space inside this control panel.  You could practically park a truck in there.  Even more practically, I could easily fit the computer (either the Raspberry Pi or the Mac Mini) in there).

So, I think we'll probably do exactly that, with the computer firmly affixed to the bottom of the CP, and ports or cables on the back for power, audio, and video connections.  This way we'll be able to bring in just the CP and plug it into our TV or a monitor and speakers while testing and debugging the software.  This is a big win, because the cabinet itself is in the garage, and I live in Arizona, where the garage is much too hot to actually go into for more than a few seconds.

But yes, I do realize the danger here... that we'll get the CP playable on its own, and never finish the cab.  But we have two things helping to guard against that.  First, we've already promised the relatives that we'll have the cab complete and ready to play when they come visit for Thanksgiving.  Second, I'm documenting our project here in this forum.  So if I don't finish it by November, I expect loud and merciless public mockery!

[Nephasth]

Probably best to completely redo the button layouts.

[Malenko]

Probably best to completely redo the button layouts.

^This. I guess I was being too subtle.   If you try to shoe horn in a layout you'll end up hating it. Make it comfy and I suggest lining up the sticks on a straight line so you can do 2 player smash TV, karate champ, etc

[JoeStrout]

Just to make you aware , That D&D panel is a konami conversion and not dedicated.

DOH!  Then my google-fu is weak, because I'm unable to find a better image.  You don't happen to know where to get a shot of the original D&D CP, do you?

[JoeStrout]

Probably best to completely redo the button layouts.

That's possible but not likely.  It would mean cutting a whole new top board, routing out the joystick mounts and the T-molding groove, etc.  Conceivable, yes, but it would require leveling up my skills and my tools (for example, I don't even own a router) considerably.

I do have a hole saw, however, so I think we're going to just apply that.  If everything else is done and working and we find the button layout suboptimal, then we can make a new board and swap it in.

Since of the games we're going to have on here, I think D&D is the only one that uses more than two buttons (and two of those aren't used very frequently), I suspect it'll be fine.

[Nephasth]

It would mean cutting a whole new top board, routing out the joystick mounts and the T-molding groove, etc.

No. No, it wouldn't.

[Malenko]

http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=7667

[JoeStrout]

We still need to add a fourth button for each station, for use with D&D.  So I guess ordering four new buttons (and hopefully matching the color and style) is high on my to-do list.

Actually, me-of-15-minutes-ago is an idiot.  Me-of-now realized that I should instead just move the existing "start" buttons down into the play area, and then get new start buttons, which don't necessarily need to match — in fact I've just ordered these ones, which light up:



I like this idea because not all these games support four players (I'm looking at you, Rampage).  So, hopefully, when the game is selected in the main menu, I can light up the "start" buttons that are actually functional, and turn off the one that is not.  This will provide a nice cue for the new kids.

[JoeStrout]

It would mean cutting a whole new top board, routing out the joystick mounts and the T-molding groove, etc.

No. No, it wouldn't.

Care to elaborate?

[yotsuya]

Oh yeah, I wanted to add that there is a ton of space inside this control panel.  You could practically park a truck in there.  Even more practically, I could easily fit the computer (either the Raspberry Pi or the Mac Mini) in there).

So, I think we'll probably do exactly that, with the computer firmly affixed to the bottom of the CP, and ports or cables on the back for power, audio, and video connections.  This way we'll be able to bring in just the CP and plug it into our TV or a monitor and speakers while testing and debugging the software.  This is a big win, because the cabinet itself is in the garage, and I live in Arizona, where the garage is much too hot to actually go into for more than a few seconds.

But yes, I do realize the danger here... that we'll get the CP playable on its own, and never finish the cab.  But we have two things helping to guard against that.  First, we've already promised the relatives that we'll have the cab complete and ready to play when they come visit for Thanksgiving.  Second, I'm documenting our project here in this forum.  So if I don't finish it by November, I expect loud and merciless public mockery!

You live here in AZ? Didn't know that.

[Vigo]

It would mean cutting a whole new top board, routing out the joystick mounts and the T-molding groove, etc.

No. No, it wouldn't.

Care to elaborate?

I believe he is suggesting you just fill the button holes with bondo or some other brand hard wood fill, let it harden and drill new holes. Worth the effort.


Oh, and be sure to include Trog. 

[Nephasth]

  Vigo

[Malenko]

plug em with dowel rods , then level with Bondo 

[DeLuSioNal29]

Or just remove the top of the CP, trace it (including joystick holes) , cut a fresh piece out of MDF and put the buttons where you want them to go.  Then you can sell the CP top (which looks to be in good shape).

D

[Malenko]

Or just remove the top of the CP, trace it (including joystick holes) , cut a fresh piece out of MDF and put the buttons where you want them to go.  Then you can sell the CP top (which looks to be in good shape).

D

Not an option, he said no routing joystick bases or tmolding slots.

[DeLuSioNal29]

Wait a sec. Are you planning to use the existing 49-way joys?!?

[stigzler]

49-way. How does that even work!? It does even work mathematically!

[Malenko]

Finally, here's a shot of the inside of the control panel.  The button switches are still detached.  We decided to rewire, so we'll get back to that as soon as some parts arrive.  (And yes, the wiring looks considerably neater in this state than it does when everything is plugged in!)

I think its safe to say they were replaced with 8 ways

[JoeStrout]

Wait a sec. Are you planning to use the existing 49-way joys?!?

Not sure what you're talking about there.  These joysticks are 8-way, with 4 microswitches each (I think you can just make 'em out in the picture at the start of the thread, with the CP opened up).

I don't know whether these are the original arcade joysticks... I suspect not.  But they seem to be decent.  A little clicky for my tastes, but I know a lot of people like it that way, so I'm willing to give it a try.  (I figure it's like weird noises in your car engine: just crank up the music until you can't hear it anymore!)

[Vigo]

49-way. How does that even work!? It does even work mathematically!

In memoriam of the 50th way:

[Nephasth]

49-way. How does that even work!? It does even work mathematically!

Since you can't be bothered to use google...

[Malenko]

Since you can't be bothered to use google...

I always thought they should be called 48ways since dead center doesnt actually go a "way"

[Vigo]

Since you can't be bothered to use google...

I always thought they should be called 48ways since dead center doesnt actually go a "way"

Right, we don't have 5 way or 9 way joysticks.

[vwalbridge]

Since you can't be bothered to use google...

I like you Neph. 

[opt2not]

It's really not that hard to cut a new CP. Don't sell yourself short!

You can rent tools from places like Home Depot, and they can also cut wood for you to get you closer to the shape you want.
I recently

a top-panel one of my projects, and it less than 4 hours to complete. I'm no woodworking expert either. All I used was a electric jigsaw, a router, and a drill.
I saved some time by taking the overall measurement of the CP to Home Depot and got them to cut it to size.

Shaping the corners with a jigsaw is super easy, (and electric jigsaws are cheap, both new and used!)  if you do a couple test cuts you'll see how quickly you can get the hang of it. A router for cutting t-molding is also really easy since you're just tracing the shape around the edges, you just need to get your hands on a slot-cutting bit.
Also, routing out the joystick slots doesn't need to be exactly precise. I did

for mine and not only did it worked out well, it also took less than 5 minutes to do. And of course, the holes for buttons and joysticks are no-brainers. After that, it was just paint and applying the overlay that took the rest of the time.

In the end, the outcome is a lot cleaner and you have a nicer panel that fits your needs rather than having to re-engineer the existing one. It's worth the small effort.

Just a suggestion, but like you said, it's your machine.  People come here to this forum to discuss  project options, learn new techniques/skills, and get the advice from some of the experienced guys here. Not only showing-off a build without anyone's input.

[Nephasth]

Since you can't be bothered to use google...

I always thought they should be called 48ways since dead center doesnt actually go a "way"

Right, we don't have 5 way or 9 way joysticks.

Agree, but it is what it is.

[stigzler]

Thanks Neph. I can be bothered to use google, but it was more conversational than a serious fact finding question. I do have to say I think youre one of the rudest individuals in this hobby. If you have asperegers, then please ignore that, it wont be by choice or conciously on your part. If not, then youre probably just a rude man who is unlikely to change. I shall endeavor, henceforth, to persue a policy of selective attention and leave you and possibly others to it.

Feels more like 4chan than a grown ups site recently...

Sorry OP to crash that into your build thread and any futures will be related to it. Just wasnt going to take that lying down.

[Nephasth]

Thanks Neph. I can be bothered to use google, but it was more conversational than a serious fact finding question. I do have to say I think youre one of the rudest individuals in this hobby. If you have asperegers, then please ignore that, it wont be by choice or conciously on your part. If not, then youre probably just a rude man who is unlikely to change. I shall endeavor, henceforth, to persue a policy of selective attention and leave you and possibly others to it.

Feels more like 4chan than a grown ups site recently...

Sorry OP to crash that into your build thread and any futures will be related to it. Just wasnt going to take that lying down.

Use the ignore feature if you're that thin skinned.

[JoeStrout]

It's really not that hard to cut a new CP. Don't sell yourself short!
...
In the end, the outcome is a lot cleaner and you have a nicer panel that fits your needs rather than having to re-engineer the existing one. It's worth the small effort.

Just a suggestion, but like you said, it's your machine.  People come here to this forum to discuss  project options, learn new techniques/skills, and get the advice from some of the experienced guys here. Not only showing-off a build without anyone's input.

Understood, and indeed I do appreciate suggestions... I'm just not going to take all of them.  I currently have no reason to believe we will hate the layout we can achieve easily, and facing a mountain of other challenges, I'm not going to give myself another until I see that it's actually necessary.  And, this isn't something that has to be done first — I can go back and replace this CP top at any point in the future, without affecting the rest of the build one bit.

Knowing myself as I do, the great risk in this project isn't going to be that I wish one of the buttons was half an inch to the left... it's going to be that we never finish the dang thing.  So, while I certainly do appreciate both advice and encouragement, please don't take offense if I occasionally choose to go my own way.

[opt2not]

No problem man.  If anything, you can always weigh your options later on and decide to revisit it.  For myself, that second CP was done years after I finished the project based on feedback I was given as well as how the cabinet was used.  The cabinet started off as a 4-player, but it wasn't really played that way. Most of the time people just wanted to play the 2 player games.
Anyway, you can always come back to it for upgrades in the future.

I give credit where credit is due. I am also allergic to ---That which is odiferous and causeth plants to grow--- and stupidity. I don't come here for the circle jerks some do...

Besides, you know nothing of things and favors I have done for many members here over the years. Get over yourself.

Neph's good peeps, even though a bit prickly at times.
But really, people should be using the wiki more. There is a lot of information there that could save people's time and annoyance.

[stigzler]

Agreed. The wikis a great resource and may be useful to you OP if youre looking to chase down some details for your build.

Interesting extract of an edited post too...projective identification at work. 

[Nephasth]

Was just trying to be a little nicer, but a ---smurfette--- will be a ---smurfette---...

[stigzler]

And again.... . Classic. 

[JoeStrout]

OK, we've made some more progress.  It took all day, but we finally got the four extra holes drilled to give each player a 4th button.  Here's what the CP looks like now:



We've also made up four cable harnesses, on for each player, to connect to the U-HID which we're planning to mount to the top of the CP.  Here's a shot of the yoots at work: older one installing buttons and joysticks, while the younger one makes cables:



So they're having fun with it already.  Can't wait until it's actually playable... but now we need to get a proper crimping tool, because I've realized that the double-crimp insulated quick disconnects I bought are not going to be crimped by pliers or wrench.  So, after lunch it's off to the hardware store to see if they have one; if not, it'll be Amazon Prime, and back to work on Tuesday.

[JoeStrout]

We now have the first of four cable harnesses all wired up:



Unfortunately, it doesn't work.  We're still scratching our heads about that.

[cjberg]

Have you decided to go with the Mac or the Pi? Im in the middle of a Pi build, but with your cabinet if you go with the Mac, you should be able to run the 4 player games that require a chd, like Gauntlet Dark Legacy/Legends. The mac will give you more/newer options. The Pi is stuck in an old version of mame and is limited to the classics(imho).

Cj

[JoeStrout]

I haven't decided yet.  Ironically our mini-cabinet based on the Mac seemed to have more stutters and framerate glitches than I've observed on the Pi (though the Pi isn't without its own problems).  And we're only interested in the classics for this cabinet anyway.

But I'm leaning towards the Mac anyway, just because it's a lot easier to set up and configure, and if I end up needing to write my own launcher, I can do that in Unity.  (Unity doesn't compile for the Pi, so I'd have to use pygame or some such there.)

[JoeStrout]

OK, we've made more progress on the control panel... all the buttons are wired up now, except for the four start buttons at the top.



Probably tomorrow we'll hook it up to a Mac or Pi and test it all out.

[JoeStrout]

More progress!  We have a Mac Mini hooked up to a 20" (4:3) LCD, and all the games we want to play are now functional.  The screen is a little smaller than I would like, but it'll do for now.  The controls are all working nicely.  There's just one thing missing:

What do we do for coin buttons?

The cabinet actually has two coin slots, which mostly work (we got about a 75% success rate dropping quarters down them; the other 25% of the time, they quarters get caught and you have to push the coin return).  So, one option I guess would be to keep these, and keep a jar of quarters next to the machine for when kids want to play.

But we're not very excited about that option for a couple of reasons.  First, the coins sometimes getting stuck and having to push the coin return is a PITA.  I'm not even certain kids these days always understand how to do that!  Second, there are only two coin slots, and I'm pretty sure some of the games require 3 or 4.

Now, some of the games that require 3 or 4 don't actually require a start button (you just hit Jump to start or whatever).  So we could use the start button on the CP as an insert-coin button in those cases.  But I'm not crazy about being inconsistent from game to game, either.

So we're thinking about getting a set of (4) Coin Drop Replacement Buttons.  I used one of these before on a mini bartop cab, and it was great; all my beta testers (i.e kids' friends) immediately understood what it was for and how to use it.  (Except for the doofus who spammed it 99 times.)

Anybody have opinions you'd like to share on this?

[Xiaou2]

The coin mechs most likely just need to be cleaned and adjusted.    There is an adjustment screw, or a few, ... depending on the model.
(usually nearest the top of the mech)

 As for the amount of coins..  Games allow you to set the prices internally.   Either via the software Dip Swtiches (Access them using Tab key) ..  and or using the Service Menu settings (F2 or F3... I believe)

[JoeStrout]

So you would advocate tweaking the coin mechs, and keeping a jar of coins near the machine for when kids come over to play?

I guess that would work.  I'm torn.  There is something satisfying about dropping a coin into a machine, but that's probably just nostalgia; kids these days probably don't feel the same way.  It would keep kids from spamming credits, and I suppose could also provide a natural time limit (if I ever wanted to impose such).  On the other hand, simple buttons seem a lot less fiddly.

Well, I'll talk it over with the boys and see if we can reach some consensus.  Thanks for the input!

[harveybirdman]

Tons of ways to go man.

Micro switch behind the rejects to add credits is slick.

I have a volcano button on the top of my cabinet to add coins.

It's ugly but you could put a coin up button on the panel.

[JoeStrout]

Well, the other problem I just noticed is that X-Men seems to require four coin slots.  My cabinet only has two.  How should I deal with that?  Have one slot trigger both Coin 1 and Coin 2, and the other one trigger Coin 3 and Coin 4?  Or replace the coin door with a 4-slot door?  Or something else?

Happy to hear wisdom from those who have walked this path before...

[harveybirdman]

Set the coin ups for that one individual  game such that 1 and 2 share the same coin up and 2 and 4 do.

You are running mame yes?

[JoeStrout]

HELP!  I'm stumped.

I've got a 21" 4:3 aspect ratio LCD monitor.  It's smaller than I would like but as big as I'm able to get.  And it actually feels just fine when playing.

The problem is, it looks terrible:



I tried making a frame for it out of foam board, but that looked terrible too.

I really like the way the default bezel comes right up at the edge and sits between the glass and the supporting frame, giving the whole thing a finished look.  The bezel is simply too small.  So I need to put something between it and the screen, that doesn't look like a summer camp craft project.

But I just don't see what that something is.

Any advice on how to make this not suck?

[stigzler]

All that work you've put in.... by hook or by crook - get a bigger display, even if it's saving the pennies for a few months - put the thing on hold. I'd worry about you regretting it later down the path (bit like painting the Mona Lisa with a red hat).

[DudeRegular]

Agree with stigzler. Get the bigger screen man.

[severdhed]

i agree, save for a bigger monitor.   what size is that bezel for?  check your local goodwill/thrift stores, you can usually pick up a 26" crt tv for around $20.  I don't know what kind of video output options you have with a mac mini (probably not a lot).

i picked up both a 26" and a 32" sony trinitron televisions at goodwill for $20 each.  both had component video inputs and looked pretty good.  i had an older pc with an ati video card that had an adapter for component output, and just had to design everything for low resolution.  it was a little difficult navigating windows xp at 640x480, but the mame games looked great.

[JoeStrout]

Well you guys aren't much help. 

I do intend to put in a bigger monitor — though my current plan is to get an obnoxiously large flatscreen TV and mount it sideways (I've taken some measurements and it ought to fit).  Adding a CRT would double the (already barely-manageable) weight and increase the total power usage by about 10X.

But the question is, what can I do by Thanksgiving?  I've got a bunch of relatives coming (including a lot of young 'uns) and I want this to look as good as it can by then.

I guess I'll try just putting a mask around the screen, behind the bezel.  Foam board at first, though if that looks half-decent I may try routing some wood and see if I can get it to look 3/4-decent.

Just wondered if there was some other clever trick people use in this situation.

[vwalbridge]

my current plan is to get an obnoxiously large flatscreen TV and mount it sideways

+1  get the biggest flatscreen that fits in there and mount it vertically. In my option this is not only the easiest but also the fastest.

CRT would be the most authentic, but if you are in a rush, you can slap a HDTV in there and be done with it.  Keep in mind that the viewable area might be lower than where center is on the screen. If/when you get at that point, retroarch can help with that.

[yamatetsu]

Two quick options which both involve ditching your bezel.

1) Take a piece of plexi, cut it to size, mark out the monitor's viewing area, tape that and spray-paint the rest black. Put monitor and bezel into cab.

2) Make a cardboard bezel like I did in my build : http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,140758.msg1464346.html#msg1464346. Put monitor and bezel into cab, cover with tinted plexi.

[yotsuya]

There's nothing wrong with that screen. Just do what Yamatetsu recommends. It'll be fine.

[mgb]

It will look really odd with that tiny screen.
You'd be better off going with a 25 or 27" TV in there now

[yamatetsu]

I do intend to put in a bigger monitor ...

But the question is, what can I do by Thanksgiving?

The too small monitor is just a quick temporary fix.

[mgb]

I do intend to put in a bigger monitor ...

But the question is, what can I do by Thanksgiving?

The too small monitor is just a quick temporary fix.

Oh, I missed that part
carry on then

although there's still that option of purchasing a larger hdtv on sale.
like one of those cheap ones from Tiger Direct

[Yenome]

Did anyone ever make a calculator to see how big of a horizontal screen you would have if you turned a 16:9 tv vertical. from what i found seems would need a 42in screen to get about a 27" 4:3 for mame anyway. Thats if im correct. but then that puts you into a tv that is like 36" wide which is great if you want to do a dynamic marque then you just need a layout file to put the marque image at the top of the screen and your game image towards the bottom. This will probably be the way i will go if i ever get to build my full size cab.

[Aceldamor]

Was that the GL that was on the AZ craig's list the other day?

Cool to see you keeping the aesthetic on this one, keep up the good work. If you're struggling for a monitor, check out the local Goodwills here in the valley. They sell CRT TVs for a dollar. You can find a large enough one to decase and mount in that bad boy.

[severdhed]

i fully intended to post this in my first response, then i forgot.

if you want to make a quick/cheap bezel that looks good, then cut a piece of plexiglass, mask off the screen area with tape, and then spray paint the back side of it with black spraypaint.  i used a  $ .97 can of flat black walmart brand spray paint on mine and i'm very happy with it.  it is super glossy and shiny on the front. 

I tried the posterboard and foambaord methods first, and they looked horrible.  this method is pretty simple and looks great.

[mgb]

Did anyone ever make a calculator to see how big of a horizontal screen you would have if you turned a 16:9 tv vertical. from what i found seems would need a 42in screen to get about a 27" 4:3 for mame anyway. Thats if im correct. but then that puts you into a tv that is like 36" wide which is great if you want to do a dynamic marque then you just need a layout file to put the marque image at the top of the screen and your game image towards the bottom. This will probably be the way i will go if i ever get to build my full size cab.

There are a couple of tv comparison calculators like that online.
Off the top of my head right now I don't remember specifically what they were called
But I remember using  one that compares quite nice

[vwalbridge]

Token's Moonshot Build might help describe what size screen you can achieve from a vertical TV mount.

Spoiler: A 42" TV is the equivalent of a 25" 4:3 display whether it is vertically or horizontally displayed

[JoeStrout]

Thanks, guys, those are some great ideas!  I'll see if I can find a source for plexiglas (that's a pretty big honking piece of plastic) here in Tucson, and try the reverse-spraypainting trick.  Failing that, I'll try the cardboard bezel approach.

And yeah, after Thanksgiving I will definitely look at the vertical bigscreen TV.

[severdhed]

you should be able to pick up plexiglass and any home improvement store (lowes, home depot, etc)

[harveybirdman]

Yeah and this is the one time I could endorse acrylic over polycarbonate. It's much cheaper.  Still cut it with a router if you can.

[Yenome]

Token's Moonshot Build might help describe what size screen you can achieve from a vertical TV mount.

Spoiler: A 42" TV is the equivalent of a 25" 4:3 display whether it is vertically or horizontally displayed

yea after looking into it i found it to be closer to a 26" than is it 25. since a 25" screen is 19.98" wide where as a 27" is 21.58" wide. so that would become the height of the wide screen so in this case a 42" has about a 20.57" tall screen which when rotated becomes the width of a 4:3 screen. me personally i was happy with a 25" so i guess if i go LCD i should aim for a 42"