Monitor calibrators

[Sarver Systems]

Has anyone used something similar to a SpyderTV to calibrate arcade monitors?

Nothing id worse than having a 2-player game that has 2 monitors, and they look completely different.

Plus, with my OCD the way it is, I'd spend hours trying to get it just right.

With the calibrators, I should be able to get them identical.

[Francesco]

I have used a Gretag Macbeth with the open source software dispcalgui and i use dispwin nameofcreatedprofile.icc as autostart to load the profile at boot time.

I suggest anyway to rent one or buy together with one friend (or more) interested in photography... i obtained one for free for few days from a friend of mine.

[Sarver Systems]

Does it work something like this?

Attach device to monitor screen.
Push a button
Screen says "adjust red up" until it is adjusted enough.
Then screen says "adjust blue down" until blue is adjusted enough.
etc....

[Francesco]

No.

It works this way:

[Ken Layton]

You need the "TPG" (Test Pattern Generator) as discussed over here:

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=333164

It's especially useful on Nintendo monitors too since you can dip switch select inverted video on the TPG.

[Sarver Systems]

No.

It works this way:

So it wont work on an arcade monitor.

[lilshawn]

just learn how to use an NTSC pattern properly. every color adjustment is somewhere on it. with proper color filters (or disconnecting certain colors to get just Red/Green/Blue) you can properly set up everything by matching color bars together.

[DGP]

If you have a device to feed the proper patterns to the crt your end result will be far superior (like the CraftyMech device linked above).

The Spyder colorimeters are decent if you get an accurate unit, some vendors were selling verified units for an additional amount due to a reasonable number being inaccurate.

The i1Display Pro / i1D3 is the way to go with the less expensive colorimeters. There is free software (HCFR) that works with many meters.

Don't buy an older used colorimeter as they tend to drift over time due to their open sensor nature (even when stored properly). The i1DP/i1D3 are sealed and should last much longer.

I have been doing A/V calibrations for years (since the early days of ColorFacts) and have pro level gear (colorimeter/spectro/CalMan) but never bothered to get ISF/THX certification. 

-DGP