Problems rewiring arcade monitor

[deanoemcke]

Hey everyone,
I recently pulled an arcade monitor and board out of an old sf2 machine and have been trying to fit it into a new cabinet.
However, after re-wiring it, i don't get any picture 
I did notice one strange thing - the suction cap anode has a second wire coming out of it that terminates in a bare metal plug. Never seen an anode with more than one wire - anyone have any ideas where this second wire is supposed to connect to?
Could that be why the monitor is not functioning?
Any help appreciated.

[grantspain]

what make/model monitor is it?

photo of what you are talking about would help

[deanoemcke]

here's of photo of the anode as well as the only monitor manufacturing info i could find.

[Amra]

I suspect that grey box right before the anode cap might be a HV resistor. If so, there are a couple possible reasons for it, one could be to bleed off the anode voltage quickly and safely after the set it turned off. If that's the case the additional wire would probably go to ground.  Another possibility is to detect whether the high voltage is present, and puts the set into some kind of protect mode if no voltage is detected.  Sometimes its a combination of these two. You might check the neck board to see if there is an empty spade terminal, as it doesn't look like it could reach that many places on the main chassis, though certainly check any areas on the main chassis that it *can* reach for empty spade terminals.

[grantspain]

i have never seen that monitor before so i can't help
jomac from Australia may know of it,it looks to be around mid/early 80's and similar to hantarex mtc90

[princess prin prin]

Old flybacks (70's/early 80's) only had the anode voltage wire coming off of them unlike modern ones that also have another two wires for focus and G2 voltages. On the older ones focus and G2 are derived from the HV through a resistor of more than 100 Mohms that is inside the little box before the anode cap. The blue wire carries this secondary voltage and must go to the focus block (the white thing with a pot) on the neckboard so it's definitely not a good thing that it's currently hanging loose.

[deanoemcke]

@princess prin prin. Thankyou so much! That's got it 
Thinking back, when I was trying to fit the monitor into the cabinet I did accidentally pull quite hard on that connection - it makes sense now that it would have caused the wire to come off.
One more question, I have taken a photo of the back of the focus block. There are 3 pins there. One has a big black cable going to the flyback. The center one has a small wire soldered to it, and the third connector appears to be broken off.
Should I be connecting this loose wire to the same pin as the other black cable? Or is it possible that the broken connector was caused when the wire initially came off?

[Amra]

Good info prin, I've not worked on monitors quite that old, figured it had to be a HV resistor, just wasn't aware they used them for those purposes back in the day. Thanks for the info.

[princess prin prin]

There shouldn't be more than two wires on the focus block. The thin wire is the output and goes to the focus pin on the socket. The blue wire must have gone to the input originally but if you now have this black wire coming from the flyback the upshot is that a new flyback was fitted and unlike the old one it had a focus wire. So it would appear that the blue wire is now useless but it does carry voltage so it must be insulated. But then you say it was connected?? More pics would be helpful. This chassis clearly had some work done to it as the sloppy soldering on the focus block shows. Also the black wire runs too close to the output connection.