4-Player Tabletop Mame

[8BitMonk]

4 leftover monitors - Dell 176FPF:



I wanted to keep the quick release mechanism, this makes it easy to take the monitors off.

 

3/16" hardboard for the 'box' with interlocking notches. The hardboard is light yet rigid enough to hold the monitor weight, stores easy.



Top of monitor mount with quick release plate removed


From the side


Pressed flat and glued


Plastic handle for support


Quick release plate back on, front screw caps


From the top, one monitor clipped on


Repurposed a bracket for passthrough bezel.


Trimming on the plastic bezel


From the top, all monitors attached, 1' VGA and power cords.


Front view, the box is about 20"x20"

[johnrt]

Interesting! I'll be watching this!

[Drnick]

Ingenious use of the stands  Does this mean you can rotate the monitors too or are those the non rotatable stands?

[Locke141]

I like this idea. Would you be inclined to share some of the design goals? 

[pbj]

I'd link each monitor to a camera pointing in the opposite direction.  Crapmame predator camouflage.

[8BitMonk]

I'd link each monitor to a camera pointing in the opposite direction.  Crapmame predator camouflage.

Nice!

Ingenious use of the stands  Does this mean you can rotate the monitors too or are those the non rotatable stands?

No rotation on the ones I have though I think I could do it by rotating the bracket. This got me thinking however and quick check of Arrow Direct brought up these 19" Dells for $18 apiece with a -25% discount and free shipping. $57 for 4 delivered monitors is crazy cheap so I went for it! I had thought about using 19" anyway and these have full rotation. They seem to use a similar quick release so if I luck out I may not even have to recut the hardboard pieces.

I like this idea. Would you be inclined to share some of the design goals? 

My goal was something I could quickly setup when I have company over to play 4-player casual Mame or multiplayer PC games like Towerfall, Broforce, Speedrunners, Knight Squad and the like.

• Quick setup
• Breakdown to store it in a closet when not in use
• As lightweight and portable as possible
• Original arcade controls (approachable to the casual player)
• Look somewhat like a mini cab, hide all of the wires, pc, power etc.
• Fit on a kitchen table, coffee table or ottoman so people can gather around it
• Carrying/storage case(s) for pieces
• Future goal: 2 cpu's for switchable 2x 2P gaming or 1x 4P gaming

Basically, I've found that when I have people over I don't necessarily want to use the bigscreen TV or cab for multiplayer gaming. I wanted something I could set up and put away like a board game so it's not a permanent fixture in the house. Just setting up 4 monitors and a pc with all the cables etc. looks like crap and is intimidating to the non-gamer.

Even though the display area is smaller I think this is a preferable casual gaming experience as you are much closer to the monitor than a bigscreen TV and can sit down vs. standing around a cab. With this I can also comfortably do 8 player (2 to a side) for Knight Squad plus it's easier to watch and/or cheer on a particular player.

Another neat thing is that if 2 people are playing a fighting game they each have their own screen while 2 other people can sit and watch on the spare screens.

[8BitMonk]

CONTROLS: These were $30 a piece on ebay. They're manufactured by Honcam or Lioncast and you'll see mods for them on Shoryuken forums. Cheap components (I'll replace those) though the encoder, case and cable will work well and are worth the $30.



Replacement components: JLF/Sanwa buttons - traditional 4 player colors



Starts to get expensive here. A person could use cheaper buttons and joystick or use these as-is to save money, they're not great but usable. I chose the JLF's since I'm thinking of using the Link shafts for storage and portability. I also wanted the custom colors.

[Locke141]

This looks promising.

Whats the PC going to be?

[8BitMonk]

Whats the PC going to be?

It's an i3 540, just above the minimum requirements for Towerfall. None of the cases were small enough so I built a quick platform out of plexi.



Placed inside, you can also see the VGA splitter box



Top on



Picture of Neutrik external USB connectors for each side and my dog photobombing.   Inside I'll connect them to a small hub with retracable usb cables to limit clutter.

[johnrt]

Nice!

I also mount the harddrive on the underside of the top cover:

[8BitMonk]

Cool, I like the wingnut idea and ventilation, going to borrow those! Also, looking at yours I notice the feet on the bottom of mine are unnecessarily long and can probably be reduced.

I needed the central portion to be a little bigger because I wanted a discreet graphics card. I'll mount the hard drives similarly to how you've done it but on the outside. The PSU I think I may just go with a heavy duty velcro.

[8BitMonk]

My idea for 'feet' is four 2" notched dowels that would slip over the hardboard. Finding it extremely difficult to get a perfect cross notch. The width needs to be just over 3/16 (the hardboard width) or about 1/4" so it slides on and isn't too loose. I think I need to use a band saw or router for better results.

I've been trying various materials, wood, pvc pipe and white, clear and black acrylic dowels. The wood dowels splinter like a mofo, pvc is easy but looks cheap and isn't solid for putting a rubber pad on bottom. I like the acrylic best but it's expensive, about $30 for 1 foot and it's even trickier to notch.

[Locke141]

That's some nice work.

Do you know any one with a 3D printer? I would print up the feet for you but I live in Tanzania and it would take a month plus to get them to you. The shipping would would not be to bad through. You could probably find a maker space near you. 

[8BitMonk]

Do you know any one with a 3D printer? I would print up the feet for you but I live in Tanzania and it would take a month plus to get them to you. The shipping would would not be to bad through. You could probably find a maker space near you.

Interesting idea, I hadn't even thought about 3D printing! I think if I can find a way to keep the dowel from rotating while cutting a router table or band saw would work. It's more difficult than I expected to get a nice clean 1/4" notch straight down the middle.

[Locke141]

I think if you can find some one with a 3D printer thats the way to go.

Just don't lose any fingers in the hard cuts.

[Locke141]

Cut a hole with a hole saw bit into a 2by4 just larger then the dowel put a screw in from the side above where the blade will cut and run it through the table saw.
or
Use square wood blocks to make the feet.

[8BitMonk]

OH you mean to hold the dowel in place while running it through the table saw! That's a good idea.

I'm not sure how I'd hold the acrylic ones in place. With the wood dowel I could put a small holding screw in the side like you show. The other challenge is that the saw blade isn't as wide as the cut I need so I have to make two passes at it which ends up with a slot too large or too small. We're talking 1/16th or 32nd of an inch. 

[Generic Eric]

That plexiglass casing is shazzling.  Way back I remember seeing whole cases made of acrylic or plexi, but not these.  I'd like to know more about  how either of you are mounting hdd or ssd and routing cables to power supply. 

[Locke141]

Take a scrap peace of the wood used for the box and place it on your table saws guide rail for the first pass, then remove it for the second pass. The change of distance should match the with of the removed peace exactly.    Keep both hands on the rig doing the cutting and be very careful. If you get all set up but things won't stay in place with out you holding it in place don't try to cut.  That will not work. it would give you the right size plus the with of the blade.

The right way to do this is with a roller. Place it on the table saw and move your guide rails over till you get it just right.

Edit: I was stuck in the DT lab waiting for some one so I took some pic's on how to do it with a roller. I got it spot on on the first go but had to use a mallet to get it in. You should leave a mm or so to allow for the wood to expand and for ease of assembly.

[8BitMonk]

That plexiglass casing is shazzling.  Way back I remember seeing whole cases made of acrylic or plexi, but not these.  I'd like to know more about  how either of you are mounting hdd or ssd and routing cables to power supply.

Mine's not quite as polished, got lazy on the cutting and didn't use a fine blade so the edges are chipped a bit. The posts are .25" threaded bar, bolts and washers. I put rubber feet on the bottom of mine, could probably make it a little lower and use wingnuts instead so the top is removable like johnrt's.



Here you can see how I plan on mounting the HD, may do it underside as johnrt did. It's just a #6 machine screw, a washer and some black plastic spacers. As for routing the cable I think I'll just wire tie them to a post or drill a small hole in the plexi to secure them. Needed a little more height for the discreet graphics card, drilled a slot in the plexi for the bottom and brought down a screw from the top to hold it.



With plexi use a glass or tile bit so you don't crack it, also a good idea to put some blue painters tape over the spot you're drilling. Using the smallest bit in a 4 bit glass and tile set I got was the perfect size for the motherboard standoffs.

[8BitMonk]

The right way to do this is with a roller. Place it on the table saw and move your guide rails over till you get it just right.

Edit: I was stuck in the DT lab waiting for some one so I took some pic's on how to do it with a roller. I got it spot on on the first go but had to use a mallet to get it in. You should leave a mm or so to allow for the wood to expand and for ease of assembly.

Not sure I follow, do you mean a roller stand to guide the dowel through horizontally? With my first attempt I was holding the dowel vertically and pushing it back and forth across the blade while up against the gate. Admittedly not the safest thing to do. If I came in horizontally I'd think the depth would be uneven.

I started looking locally for 3D printing options and there are quite a few, fairly inexpensive too. Not sure on the materials, there's a bunch of different types, I'll have to investigate it more.

[Locke141]

I meant to saying if you use a ruler not roller (dyslexics )  and take your time it's easy to move the guide and get it near perfect. You should forget the wood dual thing. Doing it the way you describe sound dangerous to me.

If you want I can make the feet in sketch up and export it to a STL file that any one with a 3D printer could print for you. I would just need the with of the boards your using, preferably in mm but I can do it in inches if your are more comfortable in the english system.

[8BitMonk]

I meant to saying if you use a ruler not roller (dyslexics )  and take your time it's easy to move the guide and get it near perfect. You should forget the wood dual thing. Doing it the way you describe sound dangerous to me.

If you want I can make the feet in sketch up and export it to a STL file that any one with a 3D printer could print for you. I would just need the with of the boards your using, preferably in mm but I can do it in inches if your are more comfortable in the english system.

Yeah I think the wood dowels are out too, they splintered badly anyway. I found some heavy duty rubber feet I'm going to try and also 3D printing. I'm going to give the design in Sketch Up a try, I've been working my way through the tutorials. I can't even get a quote for printing until I have the STL.

[8BitMonk]

I'm thinking of curving the overlapping pieces or maybe using a profile similar to the side panel of a bartop or classic cab to make it look more arcade-like. Below is my high tech mock-up.



Thoughts?

[johnrt]

Thoughts?

I think it looks better! No question about it!

[Locke141]

Thoughts?

I think it looks better! No question about it!

+1

[yamatetsu]

Yeah I think the wood dowels are out too, they splintered badly anyway.

Do you have a router ? If so, I'd suggest doing a base panel into which you simply route slots for the hardboard. Something like this :



This way you can mount some feet or a piece of rubber mat under the base, while still being able to easily assemble/disassemble the monitor stands.
Might look a bit better than the dowels, too 

[emphatic]

This is very clever, kudos on the realization of it all.

The Neutrik USB ports is the only thing that seems to amount to possible complications when you're gonna hook everything up for play mode.

Or are you gonna put the hub on one of the sides complete with 3 cables that go to the remaining ports? If so, I would go with color marked cables to avoid remapping inside MAME each time you've turned the computer off and each player's controls all of a sudden aren't mapped right. I would also mark each side with a player number assigned to each USB port on the outside

[8BitMonk]

Do you have a router ? If so, I'd suggest doing a base panel into which you simply route slots for the hardboard. Something like this :



This way you can mount some feet or a piece of rubber mat under the base, while still being able to easily assemble/disassemble the monitor stands.
Might look a bit better than the dowels, too 

Thanks for the suggestion. I had thought about doing this in the beginning but abandoned it because of the extra board and more table space it takes where the controllers are going to sit. 

This is very clever, kudos on the realization of it all.

The Neutrik USB ports is the only thing that seems to amount to possible complications when you're gonna hook everything up for play mode.

Or are you gonna put the hub on one of the sides complete with 3 cables that go to the remaining ports? If so, I would go with color marked cables to avoid remapping inside MAME each time you've turned the computer off and each player's controls all of a sudden aren't mapped right. I would also mark each side with a player number assigned to each USB port on the outside

Thanks! You bring up a good point about the controllers staying a particular player, I've never had much luck forcing gamepad controls to stick. The plan is for the hub to go on a platform inside the box (along with cpu etc.) and the Neutriks attach to it. Marking the colors is a good idea, I guess theorically if they are all plugged into the hub in the same order then they should remain the same.

[pbj]

Innocent

[8BitMonk]

I think I found a good solution for the feet, heavy duty rubber stoppers from the local hardware store.



The stoppers can double as both the cylinder of the foot as well as the padding for whatever it is set on. They flex nicely so you can make the slots a little narrower and the tension will hold them on.






Cutting was fairly easy with the Multiflex attachment for my Dremel and some boards on either side to control depth. The flat blade is good for the vertical cuts and the the wire for the cross cut at the bottom.

[8BitMonk]

The 19" Dell monitors from Arrow Direct arrived in one day. Amazing to get x4 19" monitors with rotating stands delivered in a day for $57. The quick release plate on the 19's match my existing ones but not the rotating part so I'll have to cut the sides again.



Once again I cut the bottoms off. The leftover piece is much deeper as it houses the up/down slide mechanism.



Since I decided I'd like to retain the up/down slide, I had to devise an alternate way to mount.

I glued a 6x6" piece of hardboard to the back of the leftover piece and also the inside of the box which should give extra support and a broader area to glue. The 6x6 also holds down the locking mechanism of the monitor so it won't lock when all the way at the bottom.



This will glue to the outside of the box and I'll put screws with washers from the inside of the box out. The depth of the screws will go through the 3 pieces of board and into the plastic housing of the mount about 1/8", about as deep as you go before you hit metal. Not much plastic to bite into but it's surprisingly strong and should be plenty strong when combined with the layers of hardboard and liquid nails.



 

[8BitMonk]

Some tests mocking up the overlap pieces





In the end I think I'll go with simple tapered and rounded pieces similar to the below. The more elaborate ones look interesting but are less functional, they get in the way of the monitors tilting/rotating and increase the footprint.

[Generic Eric]

Where are you storing this again?  I'm looking forward a few steps to when the monitors are mounted.  Does the PC stay mounted on a board in the middle?

Also, What does that top look like?  Are there separate marquees?  Does it have a hat?

[8BitMonk]

Where are you storing this again?  I'm looking forward a few steps to when the monitors are mounted.  Does the PC stay mounted on a board in the middle?

Also, What does that top look like?  Are there separate marquees?  Does it have a hat?

The goal is to store it in a closet. Was thinking maybe I could use boxes with plastic handles, they make large flatter ones to store the sides as well. I'd use some of the gray pick and pack foam to protect.

The monitors clip off easily, there's a little push button on the mounting plate that locks/unlocks them. Could probably get two of them in one of the cases above.

As of now the PC will just sit on a board in the middle. Not sure on the 'hat' yet, intially I thought another board that drops down in the middle about 2" and stopped by some little pieces of wood glued to the side. Hadn't planned on a marquee, a sacrafice to make it easier to setup and teardown. Maybe I could do a faux marquee that's just hardboard with some art or the words 'Player 1' etc. on it.

Thinking I'll need some ventilation/fans on the top and bottom board as well but I'd hate to have to plug two fans into the motherboard (floating in the middle) every time I set it up. Still working through it.

[keilmillerjr]

Storing in a closet? I'd get 5 suitcases. 4 of the suit cases can each house a monitor and controls. Connect each to the 5th suit case housing the computer. Each case can be stored literally anywhere in seconds. Want less than 4 players? Bring less suit cases to the party. Just an alternate idea to accomplish your goal.

[8BitMonk]

Thanks for the suggestion. Interesting thought, I hadn't even considered suitcases. Other than the cardboard boxes (which would be relatively cheap and light) I had thought about something like a canvas toolbag like the one below.



If money were no object I'd go with Pelican Cases or Luggage.

[Locke141]

It may be cool to build a rack with base panels with route slots for the hardboard.

Like this:



It would probably be pretty heavy with the 4 monitors but if it mostly lives in a closet the thats less of an issue.

[Generic Eric]

It may be cool to build a rack with base panels with route slots for the hardboard.

Like this:



It would probably be pretty heavy with the 4 monitors but if it mostly lives in a closet the thats less of an issue.

I like this.  Put some wheels on it.  Or but 2 handles on each side and stickers for 2 person lift.

[8BitMonk]

I like the idea, it'd be nice to have one composite container though I worry about the weight. I think I may just be able to put two back-to-back (so the monitor mount is facing out) and then wrap a bungie around. Then cut handle slots in the top for carrying, like the sketchboard below. Not sure I like the way that looks when it's setup, would have holes in the sides I'd have to hide with the topper unless the monitors covered them.

[8BitMonk]

Some more build progress.

The new design next to the old. Tapered and rounded sides, a little taller and wider. It's about 23" tall and the inside box is ~17" square.



Gluing the monitor mounts to 6x6 pieces of hardboard.



Mess of cables and parts, still working out the computer components. Shows the 19" monitors hung on the old box, you can see it's right up against the sides.

[Locke141]

The weight could be a real issue if you are going to be bringing it with you to friends houses. Some small children sized bike tiers and a elevated handle like luggage could over some the weight issue but at that point your case would be more work then the case. At this point you should have a good idea of how much it will weight.   

[Generic Eric]

The weight could be a real issue if you are going to be bringing it with you to friends houses. Some small children sized bike tiers and a elevated handle like luggage could over some the weight issue but at that point your case would be more work then the case. At this point you should have a good idea of how much it will weight.

I thought about that too

[yotsuya]

I know you're thinking portable, but when I saw this thread, the Atari Theatre Kiosk came to mind...

[8BitMonk]

I know you're thinking portable, but when I saw this thread, the Atari Theatre Kiosk came to mind...

Cool, don't remember ever seeing one back in the day. That's some old school multiplayer!  Can't think of any multi-sided cabs in arcades, about the closest I remember are 4P cocktails like Demolition Derby.

The weight could be a real issue if you are going to be bringing it with you to friends houses. Some small children sized bike tiers and a elevated handle like luggage could over some the weight issue but at that point your case would be more work then the case. At this point you should have a good idea of how much it will weight.

I'm shooting for 4 separate storage/carrying pieces. I'd rather have 4 lighter objects with handles than trying to get everything on wheels. Once I get the new monitor mounts on I'm going to check weight.

• Two monitors and 2Cp's
• Two monitors and 2Cp's
• CPU and misc. hardware
• Sidepanels

[Generic Eric]

I know you're thinking portable, but when I saw this thread, the Atari Theatre Kiosk came to mind...

Cool, don't remember ever seeing one back in the day. Can't think of any multi-sided cabs in arcades, about the closest I remember are 4P cocktails like Demolition Derby.

The weight could be a real issue if you are going to be bringing it with you to friends houses. Some small children sized bike tiers and a elevated handle like luggage could over some the weight issue but at that point your case would be more work then the case. At this point you should have a good idea of how much it will weight.

I'm shooting for 4 separate storage/carrying pieces. I'd rather have 4 lighter objects with handles than trying to get everything on wheels. Once I get the new monitor mounts on I'm going to check weight.

• Two monitors and 2Cp's
• Two monitors and 2Cp's
• CPU and misc. hardware
• Sidepanels

Do you remember that Metal Slug Crate themed portable game?  Do you have a favorite game with a crate in it?  Perhaps you could make it similar.

[8BitMonk]

Do you remember that Metal Slug Crate themed portable game?  Do you have a favorite game with a crate in it?  Perhaps you could make it similar.

I don't remember a Metal Slug Crate but that's an interesting idea to theme whatever is used to carry/store it.

[Generic Eric]

Do you remember that Metal Slug Crate themed portable game?  Do you have a favorite game with a crate in it?  Perhaps you could make it similar.

I don't remember a Metal Slug Crate but that's an interesting idea to theme whatever is used to carry/store it.

Concept:

Consolize real arcade hardware.
Last update:

https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=post;quote=1326619;topic=129674.0;last_msg=1416355

Hopefully S.P.A.R.R.O.W will see this and give an update.


So ya, it's not the same, but that was what I was talking about.

[yotsuya]

Do you remember that Metal Slug Crate themed portable game?  Do you have a favorite game with a crate in it?  Perhaps you could make it similar.

I don't remember a Metal Slug Crate but that's an interesting idea to theme whatever is used to carry/store it.

Concept:

Consolize real arcade hardware.
Last update:

https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=post;quote=1326619;topic=129674.0;last_msg=1416355

Hopefully S.P.A.R.R.O.W will see this and give an update.


So ya, it's not the same, but that was what I was talking about.

He did. He dropped it, it ruined the case, and he abandoned it.

[Generic Eric]

Do you remember that Metal Slug Crate themed portable game?  Do you have a favorite game with a crate in it?  Perhaps you could make it similar.

I don't remember a Metal Slug Crate but that's an interesting idea to theme whatever is used to carry/store it.

Concept:

Consolize real arcade hardware.
Last update:

https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=post;quote=1326619;topic=129674.0;last_msg=1416355

Hopefully S.P.A.R.R.O.W will see this and give an update.


So ya, it's not the same, but that was what I was talking about.

He did. He dropped it, it ruined the case, and he abandoned it.

Shazzle
I missed that when I found the post.

[8BitMonk]

That case is cool but man it looks like it weighs a ton.

[yotsuya]

Shazzle
I missed that when I found the post.

Greetings all! A while back I tried to make a consolized MVS in the shape of an ammo box from Metal Slug but unfortunately it broke after a fall. I was a bit deterred truly, but I persisted and tried and tried again. During one of my retries, I found an arcade board for an extremely reasonable price and purchased it. This made me rethink my project from something tied to a Neo Geo to a set up to one that could use a lot of different boards. Since I had a lot of the internal parts already, I only needed to purchase a few new parts.