Need advice on a router question (pics inside)

[Homietheclown]

Hey you talented wood working people. I have this dilemma and feel really lost. Need some help.  I have been using this autocad program to design my arcade cabinet. I'm a total noob with this program and this project, so it's been going very slow. While we are on the subject (noob), I have never used a router.

Anyway, please check my picture with the two different shaped backs. One is flat and one is curved. I prefer the one with the curve back because too me, it looks better. However I am at a lost on how to cut a curve like that with a router. I am pretty good with tools but don't have much wood working skills. I have a circular saw, plunge router, jig saw.

Can anyone please give me advice on how to cut the back side with a curve. When I say curve, I mean the one on the left.  I could probably make the one on the right with a straight edge, but it just doesn't look as good to me.

[shponglefan]

For a cut like that, I'd use a jigsaw, not a router.

It is possible to do smooth arcs using a router, but you need a jig to do so (i.e. a long board).  However for a shallow arc that big, you'd need a really long jig, probably far longer than is practical.  So yeah, jigsaw is your best bet.

Another router option might be to do a serious of straight edge cuts using a flush trim bit.  Basically create the arc by cutting a whole bunch of straight cuts until the final shape is close to what you want.  Then sand it to smooth it out.  But that's probably going to be very time consuming.

[BorgDog]

I agree.  Use a jig saw to cut the first one, sand it smooth to your desired cut line, then use the finished one side as a template to router the other side so they match.

[bchiarmonte]

You will also have to think how you are going to match the back panel. Either glue thin pieces together, score and bend a thicker board or just have a flat board be inside of the curve.

[Homietheclown]

You will also have to think how you are going to match the back panel. Either glue thin pieces together, score and bend a thicker board or just have a flat board be inside of the curve.

Yeah I have definitely given that some thought. I think the easiest plan is to make a flat board inside the curve. It's going to be out of view so it won't be noticed.

Thanks for the tips guys. I feel better. I'll just use a jig saw and sand it down. I've never worked with sand paper. Can anyone suggest a grit size for me to use? Will it be hard to get the shape I am looking for?

[bfauska]

One option for the curve would be to cut it in a different piece as a template that you use for both sides. If you do that with a thinner sheet of wood, like 1/4" then it's easier to cut and sand to the line. It also means that when you route the real pieces you will have nice square edges since jigsaws can be known to wander. It's also cheaper if you mess up on a thinner piece.
Sandpaper from about 40-80 is going to be good for shaping the wood, above 100 is really for clean up and above 200 is for really smoothing things out.

[yotsuya]

I know you like the curve, but I think part of why you might not like the flat back is because you don't have a slope to the top of the cab. Most cabs are slanted toward the back and don't go straight back.

Personally, I wouldn't go with a curved back if the cab is going to be going against a wall.

Just some thoughts. If you do go with a curve, the guys here have thrown out some good advice. 

[Vigo]

Personally, I wouldn't go with a curved back if the cab is going to be going against a wall.

I tend to agree with that thought, but it might be a cool look if it is going in the center of a room or at an angle to the wall.


I love the creativity of playing with the bottom slope, though. Of course, as many people here know, I have a thing for a sexy Gauntlet rear jut.

Say what what? In the jut. What what? In the jut.

[lamprey]

One option for the curve would be to cut it in a different piece as a template that you use for both sides. If you do that with a thinner sheet of wood, like 1/4" then it's easier to cut and sand to the line. It also means that when you route the real pieces you will have nice square edges since jigsaws can be known to wander. It's also cheaper if you mess up on a thinner piece.
Sandpaper from about 40-80 is going to be good for shaping the wood, above 100 is really for clean up and above 200 is for really smoothing things out.

IF you want to continue down the path of a curved back; THIS.. I've used this method several times and it works great.

[Homietheclown]

One option for the curve would be to cut it in a different piece as a template that you use for both sides. If you do that with a thinner sheet of wood, like 1/4" then it's easier to cut and sand to the line. It also means that when you route the real pieces you will have nice square edges since jigsaws can be known to wander. It's also cheaper if you mess up on a thinner piece.
Sandpaper from about 40-80 is going to be good for shaping the wood, above 100 is really for clean up and above 200 is for really smoothing things out.

IF you want to continue down the path of a curved back; THIS.. I've used this method several times and it works great.

Yeah I am still thinking about it.  I was surprised that a few people didn't dig the curved backs. Different strokes for different folks. Using a 1/4" piece for a template is an excellent idea. I'll definitely do that if I still go with a curve. 

Before I start the project I am trying to determine if I need a router table or just build a big table OR use no table lol. The router tables I'm talking about are those small ones that are sold in Lowe's and HD. These router tables seem pretty small for cutting 4x8 MDF panels. Here's an example:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-router-table/p-00937599000P?sellerId=SEARS


The community here continues to impress me. Everyone is so helpful Time to go search...