First build concept feedback - slim/wide/upright/4P cabinet

[zaltec]

I've sat on this for a few weeks, was hoping to have someone local assist with the planning but that fell through due to their other commitments, so I've been muddling through it on my own.

I've already built a test CP based on my build, and learned a lot (angled cuts are a pain, curved corners are a *---smurfette---*, wiring just takes patience, I didn't leave enough space between joystick and pushbuttons based on other's measurements), software is worse than woodworking...

Basic design ideas follow (I've been working on this post off and on, but I'm finally posting it now, and it may be incoherent/incomplete, was typed up awhile ago);

Design:
   Slim, upright, widebody modern cabinet, with classic lines
   4 Player RGB design w/trackball & spinner
   Recessed front sides, RGB underlighting
   Dynamic Marquee monitor
   5/8” MDF body, 1/2” MDF CP
Components:
   Screen - 40" LED Philips 40PFL4707/F7 (~ 38” W x 22.75” H x 2.5” D)
   Marquee – 25” LED/IPS LG 25UM65-P Ultrawide 16:9 (24” W x 11” H x 1.6” D)
   Buttons - GGG EI2 Helio9 RGB Micro-Leaf pushbuttons
   Joy’s – (currently undecided)
   Trackball – EI-T Deluxe RGB trackball
   Spinner – TurboTwist 2 spinner
   Controllers – 1x LED-Wiz+GP, 1x GP-Wiz40, 3x LED-Wiz
Checklist:
References:
   Flynn’s Arcade (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135116.msg1394601.html#msg1394601)
   Space Paranoids (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,39025.msg351425.html#msg351425)
   MvC Revolution
   Blip (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,137295.msg1415987.html#msg1415987)
   James and Anne’s Arcade (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,136026.msg1406505.html#msg1406505)

I've currently got 2x Illuminated Joysticks, 1x J-Stik, 1x Sanwa LS32. Would like something with an RGB option in the end. Also currently using an Ipac-2 which may-or-may-not end up in final build.

[severdhed]

i like the design, can't wait to see this

[ChanceKJ]

Cool!
 
A couple suggestions:
-Round off all the corners on the cp and side panels. It will look cleaner and save your butt when you get to the t-moulding. Go slow, use a jigsaw and sander. You'll be ok. Print out full size templates at staples if it helps.
-40" is HUGE for that CP, 32" was almost too big, but seems to be just right for the distance and when I get 4 players on the board. I don't know, your call, but it's big.
-sticks are subjective, buy a couple and see what you like, j-Sticks, leaf pros, sell the ones you don't like or keep them for another project.

These are just my own meandering thoughts after finishing a similar build. Disregard them if you wish. 

But cool project!

[ChanceKJ]

Oh! Just connected the dots with your other posts. Gotcha.  Now I remeber. 

[EMDB]

Seems like a Project Announcement...

[zaltec]

No project yet, just looking for feedback on the design, but if anyone thinks this would be better in Project Announcements feel free to move it Test CP and software are mostly up and running, but there won't be any more action until the spring I  didn't expect to get any work done at all until then, but I couldn't pass up the 10C+ weather we had for a week in mid-December. Now we're back to -20C. Yay.

I'm also concerned that the 40" is too large, but it was the wife's idea (she wants me to use it so I can buy her a bigger one for the living room). We've stood in front of it at point-blank range and she swears it's good. I'll set the actual CP up at the proper distance in a few days, once our company leaves and I have the livingroom back.

I tried to do the curved inside corners (between P1/3 & P2/4) on the CP using an eyeball-centered holesaw... wow, did that not turn out well... lol

I'll post some more concept and physical CP pics later today. Feedback on anything (insets, angles, tilt, CP, colouring, design, anything!) is welcome.

[EMDB]

If the wife wants it bigger be very carefull 

[ChanceKJ]

I tried to do the curved inside corners (between P1/3 & P2/4) on the CP using an eyeball-centered holesaw... wow, did that not turn out well... lol

Use a Forstner bit, go slow, backing out a few times to allow the chips to vacate, then clean up with a drill sander attachment if needed. Then run strait lines to the hole with a jigsaw.

[zaltec]

Use a Forstner bit, go slow, backing out a few times to allow the chips to vacate, then clean up with a drill sander attachment if needed. Then run strait lines to the hole with a jigsaw.

Seeing as we're both using the same CP base plans (which I found through your thread), do you have an updated version available with your own design? The original uses 3" holes for the corners, which I didn't have available. I also adjusted the angles of the CP box a bit (went with 30 degree corners with 1/2" inset), and I went with re-centered components for my OCD (original called for trackball off-center, etc). I've run into a space/distance issue between joys and buttons though, where I had to shave off some of the mounting plates to get them to fit with the button7. I used my forstner 1 1/8" for the buttonholes, which worked so much better than a holesaw, I was impressed.

Basically the CP is 46" x 17" with an "aircraft carrier" design, but I already know I'll have to move a few things around depending on my final joystick choice.

[yotsuya]

If you want honest feedback, it's too wide for my tastes. If your wife insists on a 40" screen, build a pedestal. At least, that's what I would do.

[ChanceKJ]

Yeah, the P1/P2 spots with 7-8 buttons and a trackball can get a little tight on the lower section of that cp design. If I remeber correctly this was the first problem that led me to make my P1/2 button pattern more ergonomic to my hand. Everything seemed to fit like a glove for me after that. Mind you, I did my cp box on the fly after I had the top cut out. No planning, I just marked off what the tolerances for the trackball housing, stick plates, and buttons that would come close to the cp box walls were and built the box. I had my CP top CnC'd through a guy here in Calgary. And then I built the cp box on the fly, they never were drafted. Also, my side panel designs house the 4° tilt of the cp box so I didn't have to build it into the walls of the box itself.