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Author Topic: Single player mini Bartop -EA Sports NHL 94 Theme. Powered by Raspberry Pi2.  (Read 39267 times)

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Frank Drebin

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This is my second arcade cabinet build.  My first was a full size and it was fairly successful using OND's very helpful thread.  This time around I want to try something much smaller, which hopefully will allow me to focus a little more on build quality/finishing.

The hope is to keep the costs as minimal as possible while still having a professional looking project.  I think the biggest cost that I can save right now that could be updated later would be the side art, marquee and control panel.  I have used vinyl wrap (di noc) on my last project because the paint job didn't turn out the way I wanted and the wrap looks great.  I'm not sure if I'm going to backlight the marquee, but for now because of the size I can print my own marquee.

So here is a running total for the cabinet only.  (Apologies for the stock pictures, I haven't received anything yet!

$25 - Wood and supplies
$30 - Plexiglass for bezel, marquee and control panel
$45 - Buttons, joystick, and USB interface. (from ebay)

$25 - Vinyl wrap from ebay
$60 - Control board for used laptop monitor (free)
$20 - T Molding
$15 - Switched 110V inlet module & cord

So thats a total of $220 on the cabinet, while still needing to buy some sort of a sound system and pay for paint.

And the running total for the brains of the cabinet
$100 - Ouya
$10 - 32 GB USB drive
$20 - 7 Port USB hub
« Last Edit: September 19, 2015, 06:17:32 pm by Frank Drebin »

Frank Drebin

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Plans
« Reply #1 on: November 17, 2014, 11:58:01 am »
So going off this plan, but because this will be a single player only and the goal is to be as small as possible, I took the dimensions off this weecade plan and scaled them down to 75% of original size.  This works out to be 17" high by 14" wide, and hopefully no more than 30 lbs.



And a couple real life update pics:



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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #2 on: November 17, 2014, 12:03:19 pm »
So do you have an interface for old laptop controller board to DVI/HDMI?  What model of laptop is the monitor coming from?

Also, its not clear from the pics, did you already route the edges for the tmolding?

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #3 on: November 17, 2014, 12:10:43 pm »
Look, PBJ, a WeeWeecade!
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

Frank Drebin

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #4 on: November 17, 2014, 12:39:19 pm »
So do you have an interface for old laptop controller board to DVI/HDMI?  What model of laptop is the monitor coming from?

Also, its not clear from the pics, did you already route the edges for the tmolding?

I got the board from an ebay seller, I can't remember who the manufacturer was of the monitor but I was assured the board I ordered would work.  I think this should work out good for audio with the HDMI and exterior speakers:



And no, I haven't received the slot cutter or tmolding yet.

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #5 on: November 17, 2014, 12:42:55 pm »
So do you have an interface for old laptop controller board to DVI/HDMI?  What model of laptop is the monitor coming from?

Also, its not clear from the pics, did you already route the edges for the tmolding?

I got the board from an ebay seller, I can't remember who the manufacturer was of the monitor but I was assured the board I ordered would work.  I think this should work out good for audio with the HDMI and exterior speakers:



So this thing works independent of the rest of the laptop/motherboard it was in?  I didn't know there was such a thing.

Frank Drebin

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #6 on: November 17, 2014, 01:03:18 pm »


So this thing works independent of the rest of the laptop/motherboard it was in?  I didn't know there was such a thing.

Apparently, yes.  You should see that laptop monitor when its all stripped down.  Hardly any bigger than a sheet of paper.  Its about 1/4" thick, 8.5" high and 11" wide.  I was *this* close to making a Raspberry Pi powered picture frame.  (running xbmc of course!)

Here's an instructables on the subject:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Old-laptop-screen-into-Monitor/?ALLSTEPS

Frank Drebin

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #7 on: November 17, 2014, 02:54:58 pm »
Looking for low cost options for speakers/volume control.  The most likely thing I do is dismantle a set of computer speakers, but if someone can point me in another direction I'm all ears pun intended.

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #8 on: November 17, 2014, 03:17:46 pm »

JDFan

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #9 on: November 17, 2014, 03:34:49 pm »
Looking for low cost options for speakers/volume control.  The most likely thing I do is dismantle a set of computer speakers, but if someone can point me in another direction I'm all ears pun intended.

For low cost you can't really go wrong with computer speakers - For example the Logitech LS-120's are decent sounding for the <$10.00 price. Like these at walmart for $6.99 on clearance( http://www.walmart.com/ip/12321679?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227009948921&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40880093912&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=78810468872&veh=sem ) or can be found on Ebay for about the same price shipped (think I paid $7.99 for the last pair including shipping)

pbj

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #10 on: November 17, 2014, 04:37:42 pm »
Look, PBJ, a WeeWeecade!

I'm curious to see how the integration with the Ouya goes.

Frank Drebin

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #11 on: November 17, 2014, 06:49:30 pm »

I'm curious to see how the integration with the Ouya goes.
So am I.  I was actually going to use this as a Pi build with Retropie  but the OUYA is a much more powerful machine for gaming.  If it doesn't work out with the OUYA I can always try the Pi.

The frontend software Nostalgia is nothing like hyperspin, which isn't necessarily a bad thing with the size and budget of this build.  Its a nice lightweight frontend with a lot of nice options.  I'm thinking of culling down the Rom collections to about ~100 per system in NES, SNES, N64, Genesis, SMS, and of course MAME.  Maybe a couple of dreamcast games?

The ouya works fine with a keyboard.  I'm almost positive I could get it to work with an IPAC.  I'm just hoping this ebay interface works and is recognized.
« Last Edit: November 17, 2014, 06:51:53 pm by Frank Drebin »

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #12 on: November 17, 2014, 11:09:34 pm »
if you test the Ouya with an IPac post an update.   I've an Ouya gathering dust due to its crappy controller, and i'm unhappy with its response to an xbox 360 controller as well. 
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHH!!!!!

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #13 on: November 19, 2014, 03:10:51 pm »

I've an Ouya gathering dust due to its crappy controller, and i'm unhappy with its response to an xbox 360 controller as well. 
Yea this is intriguing for sure since i'm in the same boat. I have an original XBOX, an ouya and an xbox 360 with a broken DVD drive that are all gathering dust and screaming for my next project.

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #14 on: November 19, 2014, 09:30:11 pm »
stop stealing weeweecade jokes :angry:

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #15 on: November 20, 2014, 01:24:00 am »
If you power it with an old Nintendo wii, you can have a wiiweeweecade.

Frank Drebin

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #16 on: November 21, 2014, 02:07:55 am »
So a little update, I'll split it up between two posts: one for the cabinet build and one for the software (OUYA) part of it.

First of all, the cabinet.  Got a few more parts done, got the bezel cut out, and ordered myself this router table:  I want to bevel the inside edge of the bezel but I'm afraid of what would happen if I tried freehand.  It was a great deal at $105 shipped.

Will be trying my hand at hidden hinges for the back.

And a pic of the loosely assembled cabinet:







Frank Drebin

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #17 on: November 21, 2014, 02:20:48 am »
Second update is actually pretty exciting for anyone who is interested in using an OUYA as a low cost option for the brains in an arcade box.

1.  Like I mentioned earlier, the Nostalgia front end is a nice light weight front end for the OUYA.  It is supposed to fetch box art and metadata but I couldn't get it to fetch the box art.  There are other places I'm sure we all know of to get that sort of stuff.

It has a library type view, and you can toggle between systems:

.
 If you want to read about the game you use the U button and you get a screen like this:



I also like the search function in that if you search for "Donkey Kong" you get results for every platform, even if you are just searching in MAME.  I haven't played with it a whole lot but I think you can do favorites as well.  Lots of supported emulators and really all you have to do is install Retroarch which has support for mame .139. 


Now, the big problem with the OUYA and adding buttons/usb interface is that lets say on a keyboard for example, there is no corresponding key on the keyboard that will give the function that pushing the Y button does.  Enter button performs similar actions to the U button and escape is similar to the A button but not entirely the same.

I did some reading and had some help from another member on here and I'm pretty confident as long as the usb interface is recognized by the OUYA you can configure each button just like the controller.  Once I figure out how exactly to do it I will share, as a couple of users have stated that they are interested in the controls already.

You do have to root your ouya to access the keylayout (kl) file.

With each button press or keystroke the ouya recieves a keycode.  For example by pushing button y on the ouya controller the ouya recieves a keycode of 100.  By pushing the letter y on the keyboard you might get a keycode of 73 or something like that.

By editing the keylayout file, you can change what buttons do what.

For example by default, input 100 = button y, if you want the letter y to do the same as button y you change the keylayout file to input 73=button y.

I haven't done it yet but I think I got my head around the idea.

Another very cool thing about the OUYA and Nostalgia is with a little app called autopilot, the OUYA will boot right into Nostalgia on powerup! 
« Last Edit: November 21, 2014, 02:39:14 am by Frank Drebin »

Frank Drebin

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #18 on: November 25, 2014, 12:52:55 pm »
Rooting the OUYA to access and add custom keylayout files:

This is more for me to have a place to look back on if I ever want to do this again, but hopefully I can help some others out who have OUYA's collecting dust.  Rooting needs to be done to access the keylayout files  (these files are basically in hidden system folders that only superusers (rooted) have access to.  I browsed into that folder and there are quite a bit and there is actually one pre-built for the X-Arcade tankstick.

First things first:  You need to establish an ADB (Android debug bridge) between your console and your computer, this is required to install the necessary drivers on your computer, so that the rooting program "Ouya Toolbox" can recognize, communicate and root your OUYA.  The video below takes you through it pretty good.



Keep in mind windows 8 makes you do some goofy stuff.

https://devs.ouya.tv/developers/docs/windows8.md

link to ouya toolbox
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2350900

I used both the normal and test versions.

http://burdbroscustomarcade.us/forums/topic/how-to-configure-controller-to-work-with-ouya-and-android/

Cliffs of this excellent writeup:

You need es file explorer
Select root explorer and turn it on. Select root explorer again and change both / and /system to r/w
keylayouts are installed in  /system/usr/keylayout/

Frank Drebin

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #19 on: November 25, 2014, 12:56:27 pm »
Got the speaker grills drilled out:





Thinking of maybe doing some custom art.  EA sports NHL94 theme? 

Frank Drebin

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #20 on: November 26, 2014, 09:46:39 am »



Frank Drebin

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #21 on: November 28, 2014, 03:42:13 pm »
Got the laptop screen controller in yesterday. 

Here's a pic of the stripped down screen:



And with the controller board plugged in (damn what a chitty picture)



And of course the test run:

Nostalgia NES




a little SF2 turbo



XBMC can be launched from Nostalgia as well



Ouya Pinball



Time to get this ready for paint.  Cutting T molding slots tomorrow.

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #22 on: November 28, 2014, 07:44:00 pm »




What in the hell is that at the top of this pic?

Frank Drebin

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #23 on: November 28, 2014, 07:47:29 pm »


What in the hell is that at the top of this pic?
Kids sippy cup.  They are all over the house. :lol

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #24 on: November 28, 2014, 07:53:05 pm »
.
« Last Edit: February 12, 2015, 06:18:21 pm by Louis Tully »

Frank Drebin

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #25 on: November 28, 2014, 08:04:06 pm »


What in the hell is that at the top of this pic?
Kids sippy cup.  They are all over the house. :lol

I know all about that. In the couch, behind it. Had one inside my Asteroids cab once because I left the coin door open.  :laugh:
Ha ha.  not too bad as long as its water not milk in there.  We've dumped out many cups of solid milk.

Frank Drebin

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #26 on: November 29, 2014, 01:02:06 am »
So got a fella from another board who generously donated his PS skills to help design me some control panel, marquee and side art.  Liking what he came up with for the control panel so far.

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #27 on: November 29, 2014, 04:51:46 am »
does ouya even run ps1/n64 games?

still gotta pick one up just to mess around with it lol (I have too many xboxes tho!)


Frank Drebin

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #28 on: November 29, 2014, 07:10:37 am »
does ouya even run ps1/n64 games?

still gotta pick one up just to mess around with it lol (I have too many xboxes tho!)

I haven't spent a whole lot of time messing with the emulators, it seemed to play Mario Kart 64 pretty decently, I have watched quite a few videos and it seems to handle N64 fine.  I haven't tried emulating PS1 at all, even on my PC so I can't answer your question there but I have tried a few Dreamcast games and they seemed to play OK as well with a bit of cracking in the sound.  Actually haven't played a game on it until I started messing with this project.  The controller is absolute garbage.  So much lag you can't even play a proper game of Pacman.  The Logitech F310 plugs and plays quite nice though.   I do expect lag free play with the encoder/keyboard, I suspect its just the BT connection that is the problem.

I never purchased the OUYA to be a gaming machine, I bought it as an XBMC machine, and while it is decent for that purpose, the wifi reception isn't the greatest at times.  Long story short I got frustrated with it and bought the Rasp Pi, then got the OUYA working satisfactorily again and had the extra Pi....but Pi won't play even some MAME games properly...so decided to leave the PI as an XBMC machine and try the OUYA for this project.


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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #29 on: November 29, 2014, 09:01:39 pm »
T molding slots cut and vent holes drilled.  Figure 5X3/8" holes should be sufficient for the OUYA and monitor.


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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #30 on: November 29, 2014, 09:52:12 pm »
I can't stand weecades but I'm watching this one with interest.  Keep it coming.

 :cheers:

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #31 on: November 29, 2014, 11:10:17 pm »
I can't stand weecades but I'm watching this one with interest.  Keep it coming.

 :cheers:

Ha ha appreciate it.  Its like a ghost town in here except for the wee wee jokes.  Whats up with the weecade hate anyways?  I don't know what I'm going to do with this when I'm done but I had the parts (ouya/Rasb pi & monitor) already kicking around, plus I already have a stand up, plus I needed a hobby for the next few months, plus the fact that a full size absolutely takes over your garage so I decided on the wee-wee.

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #32 on: November 29, 2014, 11:39:09 pm »
I can't stand weecades but I'm watching this one with interest.  Keep it coming.

 :cheers:

Ha ha appreciate it.  Its like a ghost town in here except for the wee wee jokes.  Whats up with the weecade hate anyways?  I don't know what I'm going to do with this when I'm done but I had the parts (ouya/Rasb pi & monitor) already kicking around, plus I already have a stand up, plus I needed a hobby for the next few months, plus the fact that a full size absolutely takes over your garage so I decided on the wee-wee.

Jim's the only one that hates Weecades.
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #33 on: November 29, 2014, 11:41:45 pm »
I like my weewee..cade :burgerking:

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #34 on: November 30, 2014, 01:25:17 am »
~delete~
« Last Edit: November 30, 2014, 01:48:28 am by Frank Drebin »

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #35 on: November 30, 2014, 08:27:40 pm »
Marquee draft. 

I am, and the guy doing the artwork for me are Montreal Canadiens fans.  NHL 94 is the last year that the Habs won the cup.  I kind of like the idea of the cup winning team in the emblem but I asked to see how black would look too. 

Thoughts?

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #36 on: November 30, 2014, 08:32:02 pm »
And a couple pics of the control panel printed out.  I was going to go with a more ergonomically friendly slagcoin layout but it messes up the CP.  I think the classic SF2 layout just works.  Thoughts?




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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #37 on: November 30, 2014, 08:32:11 pm »
Any project with Patrick Roy in it should be immediately rejected.  >:D

What's your favorite team? Wouldn't an action shot of that be better?
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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #38 on: November 30, 2014, 08:54:11 pm »
Any project with Patrick Roy in it should be immediately rejected.  >:D

What's your favorite team? Wouldn't an action shot of that be better?

I'm a Canadiens fan as well but I just can't bring myself to like the guy after the whole trade fiasco.  I understand how it all went down, and recognize how great of a goalie and how great of a career he had, but I'm just not a huge Roy fan.

I'm actually leaning towards having no NHL players or teams involved at all, and making it all about the NHL '94 game.

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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #39 on: December 01, 2014, 03:52:32 pm »
So now that I've decided to spend a bit more time and money on this cabinet than originally planned on this little cabinet, I found that the idea of hacking up a pair of cheap computer speakers was kind of bothering me.  They didn't sound very good, at all.  They were OK for the classic games but I put a movie on XBMC and they sounded like absolute crap, almost unlistenable.

Did a quick bit of shopping and found this set on sale for $40.  Edifier Aurora MP300 plus.  The speakers are a bit larger than a golf ball and the Subwoofer tube is 10" long.  So I guess I've got a bit in common with Aurora speaker designers (ha ha)

It kind of sucks now because I'm on days off and have some time to work on completing the cab but I have to wait to see how I'm going to integrate these things.  The volume control and sleep buttons (push both volume buttons) are on the top of one speaker, so I hope I dont' have to wake them on power up or thats going to make things tricky.  Anyways cabinet is pretty much on hold till I figure that out.

From this:



To This:


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Update for my legion of loyal thread subscribers :D

Cabinet is primed.  Took notes on OND's 4 part video on getting a mirror shine on timber.  Gotta say the guy makes it look easy.  Luckily I don't have a lot of exposed paint now that I'm going with a marquee, control panel and side art.

Staying with the cheap computer speakers but going to mount them a little different.  I'll update when I do (after paint.)

The ebay kit that I got - the OUYA won't recognize the encoder.  Got an Xin-Mo on order.  Didn't like the look of the buttons so ordered some Chromalites from Groovy Game Gear.

The top and sides will be blue and the front (admin) buttons will be white.




If I can learn how to solder on a control board, I can run a dedicated remote power button to the front of the cab.

If you can see the power button here at the top of the control board:



The top two connections are the power connections:




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Some picture updates:

Plexiglass cut:



Pilot holes drilled in plexi: (I had to peel back the protective layer to see one hole)



Primed and button hole locationS






Frank Drebin

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And the updated artwork:  I like the all white bezel but the guy doing it for me likes the black/white one.  Thoughts?


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I agree with you - all white looks better.  :cheers:
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Love the theme, definitely the white.

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I like the white one better too, but the black one makes the NHL pop more.

First rule of graphic design...never send your client an option you don't like as much, they will ALWAYS choose it.

You will be the one looking at it all the time, go with the one you like better.  The white.

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Was there a model number or a brand name on the encoder that you said would not work with the Ouya?  If your not going to use it in this build, are there plans for it?  I'm interested in it if your not going to use it.
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Was there a model number or a brand name on the encoder that you said would not work with the Ouya?  If your not going to use it in this build, are there plans for it?  I'm interested in it if your not going to use it.
I haven't spent a whole lot of time with it TBH.  Just plugged it in the OUYA and started up the keytest app, nothing was recognized.  I'll fiddle around with it a little more on my PC when  I get a chance.

It's probably not worth it for me to package it up and mail it out, you're better off just buying it straight from China (ebay).  Seller's name is: 1688danielxle. 

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So I think I'm going to run into a lot of trouble with the T molding at these corners:



Should I round them off a bit or is that going to take away from the look of the cabinet?  Do I really have any other option?  :badmood:

Also ordered some chrome T molding from England.  Couldn't find blue in 1/2", didn't want to go with white or black.




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Getting the T-molding to look good on those corners will be tough.  If they were rounded it would be easier. 

yotsuya

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I still think an action shot on the marquee would look better than the Cup photo. The Cup photo is very static. An action shot would be preferable.
« Last Edit: December 04, 2014, 10:28:41 am by yotsuya »
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I still think an action shot on the marquee would look better than the Cup photo. The cup photo is very static. An action shot would be preferable.

I'm partial to this:



But, the above play was from 1991, and NHL 94 is based off the 92-93 season.

Really the most iconic moment from that year is the picture of Roy hoisting the cup, he tried to get it to work but it didn't fit in the logo that well.  I'm happy with the cup photo, I think it fits the theme of the game pretty good.


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So I think I'm going to run into a lot of trouble with the T molding at these corners:

Should I round them off a bit or is that going to take away from the look of the cabinet?  Do I really have any other option?  :badmood:

IF you look back at the plans you used for this they have the corners rounded - so shouldn't take away from the look if you liked the look of the plans  :dunno
« Last Edit: December 04, 2014, 10:10:54 am by JDFan »

yotsuya

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I still think an action shot on the marquee would look better than the Cup photo. The cup photo is very static. An action shot would be preferable.

I'm partial to this:



But, the above play was from 1991, and NHL 94 is based off the 92-93 season.

Really the most iconic moment from that year is the picture of Roy hoisting the cup, he tried to get it to work but it didn't fit in the logo that well.  I'm happy with the cup photo, I think it fits the theme of the game pretty good.

From the Genesis

 :dunno
« Last Edit: December 04, 2014, 10:34:05 am by yotsuya »
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Yeh the guy doing it for me is partial to this one,  I think it looks pretty good and I can't complain about what he's charging me so sometimes you gotta pick your battles. ;)

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Yeh the guy doing it for me is partial to this one,  I think it looks pretty good and I can't complain about what he's charging me so sometimes you gotta pick your battles. ;)

Yeah, I get it, but I also know he's working for you, right?  :cheers:

Note: I recall you're a Habs fan, so you'd probably want that image as well.  :cheers: :cheers:
« Last Edit: December 04, 2014, 10:37:02 am by yotsuya »
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Yeah, I get it, but I also know he's working for you, right?  :cheers:

Note: I recall you're a Habs fan, so you'd probably want that image as well.  :cheers: :cheers:

If it was a big deal to me I'd ask him to change it but I'm old enough to remember that SC win and I really like the image.  And no, he's not working for anyone.  He's just doing it because he likes doing that type of stuff as a hobby.  I've offered to pay him but he won't accept.  So that in itself deserves a bit of artistic freedom, as long as I'm not unhappy with it. :cheers:

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Just for kicks.  :cheers:
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Also ordered some chrome T molding from England.

A little advice for working with the chrome T molding.  I just finished up putting chrome T molding on my build so I thought I would pass this along.

Due to the really shiny, reflective nature of it you will see every dent you make in it.  The first strip I put in, the groove was snug and while tapping it in in some places it warped a bit or flattened a bit.  With normal T molding you wouldn't even have noticed, with the reflective chrome, you see it.  Others that have looked at the cabinet don't see it, but I do.

I took a sheet of rough sand paper and folded it over a piece of cardstock (just some cardboard packaging that was laying around).  Then I used that to sand out the channel a bit on the other slots.  This loosened them up just enough that the rest of the T molding went in a lot smoother.

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Just for kicks.  :cheers:
Not bad my man.  Very authentic! ;D  I may print that one off too.

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Also ordered some chrome T molding from England.

A little advice for working with the chrome T molding.  I just finished up putting chrome T molding on my build so I thought I would pass this along.

Due to the really shiny, reflective nature of it you will see every dent you make in it.  The first strip I put in, the groove was snug and while tapping it in in some places it warped a bit or flattened a bit.  With normal T molding you wouldn't even have noticed, with the reflective chrome, you see it.  Others that have looked at the cabinet don't see it, but I do.

I took a sheet of rough sand paper and folded it over a piece of cardstock (just some cardboard packaging that was laying around).  Then I used that to sand out the channel a bit on the other slots.  This loosened them up just enough that the rest of the T molding went in a lot smoother.
Solid Advice, thank you!

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Just for kicks.  :cheers:
Not bad my man.  Very authentic! ;D  I may print that one off too.

NP. I don't plan on making any more comments on the art - I just wanted to show you that if you did want to change things, and the artist didn't want to do it, there are other options.  :cheers:
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NP. I don't plan on making any more comments on the art - I just wanted to show you that if you did want to change things, and the artist didn't want to do it, there are other options.  :cheers:
I will keep that in mind.  Thank you.


Now, I've got the 5 vent holes in the back...what does everyone think about finishing them off in chrome?  Too much?




https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/192757023/100pcs-27mm-silver-round-grommet-eyelet?ref=sc_3&plkey=c2b9c51868b538f77c074c96c63c20b9da0aab02%3A192757023&ga_search_query=15mm+grommet&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery

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Unless you can think of a clever way to put a vented hockey puck over them the chrome sounds like a good second option.

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if its the one listed as "zero delay" i'll probably order the Xin Mo myself.  (provided it works after you test it for us ;) )
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Re: Ouya powered nanocade!
« Reply #65 on: December 04, 2014, 09:41:05 pm »
So now that I've decided to spend a bit more time and money on this cabinet than originally planned on this little cabinet, I found that the idea of hacking up a pair of cheap computer speakers was kind of bothering me.  They didn't sound very good, at all.  They were OK for the classic games but I put a movie on XBMC and they sounded like absolute crap, almost unlistenable.

Did a quick bit of shopping and found this set on sale for $40.  Edifier Aurora MP300 plus.  The speakers are a bit larger than a golf ball and the Subwoofer tube is 10" long.  So I guess I've got a bit in common with Aurora speaker designers (ha ha)

It kind of sucks now because I'm on days off and have some time to work on completing the cab but I have to wait to see how I'm going to integrate these things.  The volume control and sleep buttons (push both volume buttons) are on the top of one speaker, so I hope I dont' have to wake them on power up or thats going to make things tricky.  Anyways cabinet is pretty much on hold till I figure that out.

From this:



To This:



So update on this:

The speakers were kind of an impulse purchase.  I've been stuck on the idea of a set of speakers with a volume knob that I could disassemble and use on the exterior of the cab. 

After reading on the Edifiers (after buying, of course) I found that the volume was controlled by two tiny buttons on top of one speaker:



And even worse yet, they had to be woken up after every power out by pushing both VOL+ and VOL- at the same time.  I didn't like the idea of having to open the cab every time I powered up and then again if I wanted to adjust the volume so I decided on going with the original design and re-selling the Edifiers.

That was until I powered them up at home here.  If you gave normal desktop speakers a 10/100 and $100 logitech set a 100/100, these would probably score around 85.  They sound amazing for the size.  Not a whole pile of bass or volume but a really nice full clear sound, perfect for a tiny arcade machine.

I decided to risk wrecking them to open up the speaker with the switches to see if they could be rewired:


Jumpered Red to Grey: Volume +
Jumpered Red to Green: Volume -

I can use arcade buttons to adjust the volume.  Pretty excited about that!  Going above the screen.





Frank Drebin

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IF you look back at the plans you used for this they have the corners rounded - so shouldn't take away from the look if you liked the look of the plans  :dunno

Sorry I missed this post earlier.  You are absolutely right. :cheers:

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Decided to sand the corners.  I don't know what I was thinking when I grabbed the jigsaw but thankfully common sense took over.




Pic of the Sub in the cab (11'long, should be lots of room for everything in there with the sub.



Finished painting.  I think next time I'll save some money on paint and just vinyl wrap the back instead.




Now that paint is done I can start working on electrical and components.  Speakers first.  Also going to try the DIY smart power strip (actually an outlet)  Let you guys know how it goes.

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...Now, I've got the 5 vent holes in the back...what does everyone think about finishing them off in chrome?  Too much?

Route a bevel into them, and put a piece of black wire mesh across them inside.

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...Now, I've got the 5 vent holes in the back...what does everyone think about finishing them off in chrome?  Too much?

Route a bevel into them, and put a piece of black wire mesh across them inside.

Yeah, never thought of that, would look pretty good I think.  Too late now, cab is painted and those chrome rings are ordered.  I think they'll look pretty good on the back.

Did some soldering tonight, speakers and OUYA power buttons will work!

No pics of the speakers, but here's the decased OUYA:



And don't be too hard on my soldering skills, main thing is that it works!  When the green buttons are pressed together it simulates the power button on the OUYA.  I'm open to tips, I found that a bunch of resin? piled up at the bottom of the job when I was trying to solder.  You can see the brownness in the bottom pic.




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I saw your note about having trouble with the t-molding on those corners. When you're installing it, use an exacto knife and cut out a little section of the T-molding's inside groove. It'll help eliminate that bubbling you could get from the molding bunching up.

Does that make sense?
I'm with stupid.

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I saw your note about having trouble with the t-molding on those corners. When you're installing it, use an exacto knife and cut out a little section of the T-molding's inside groove. It'll help eliminate that bubbling you could get from the molding bunching up.
Here's a pic.



Scott

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I saw your note about having trouble with the t-molding on those corners. When you're installing it, use an exacto knife and cut out a little section of the T-molding's inside groove. It'll help eliminate that bubbling you could get from the molding bunching up.

Does that make sense?
I saw your note about having trouble with the t-molding on those corners. When you're installing it, use an exacto knife and cut out a little section of the T-molding's inside groove. It'll help eliminate that bubbling you could get from the molding bunching up.
Here's a pic.



Scott
Thanks guys, did a test run with the original black T mold.  Really wraps nicely without the "T"


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I need help on the side art.  Just want to keep it simple.  I had thought it would have been cool to have the old Conference logos (Prince of wales/Campbell) on the side somewhere, along with the EA sports and NHL94 logos, but I think due to the shape of the sides it just looks too cluttered if you try to fill up the empty space.

Heres a couple drafts my guy sent me and a couple (lol) MS paints I did.




The image doesn't necessarily have to be P.Roy

And a couple simple ideas that I did.  I will learn Photoshop in the new year.  I promise.





Input and ideas are more than welcome!

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I like the blue outline better than the red.

I am curious how the scratched ice look with blend with the shiny ice background of the CP.  If you like the scratched look you might want to soften it some more.

Overall, I like going with the logos better than the cup image.  I also like the idea of going with the old conference logos, I think that is really cool.

I would drop the small NHL logo, shrink the EA Sports logo and put it down by the CP.  Move the NHL 94 up to the top near the marquee so it sort of mirrors the front and slide the conference logo down some.

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I like the blue outline better than the red.

I am curious how the scratched ice look with blend with the shiny ice background of the CP.  If you like the scratched look you might want to soften it some more.

Overall, I like going with the logos better than the cup image.  I also like the idea of going with the old conference logos, I think that is really cool.

I would drop the small NHL logo, shrink the EA Sports logo and put it down by the CP.  Move the NHL 94 up to the top near the marquee so it sort of mirrors the front and slide the conference logo down some.
Ya I prefer the smooth CP art to the scratched ice myself.  Going thru souldraw so I can easily print out both.

I do like the NHL 94 logo at the top.  I don't know about anything at the front by the CP because I have a button there.  I'm asking him to work with this draft, remove the small NHL logo and to try and incorporate the conference logo and the NHLPA logo in the empty space.



I actually prefer the old EASPorts logo for the side and prefer the new for the front.  How about this at the top, "Its in the game" at the bottom and the conference logos and NHLPA logo in the middle?



Frank Drebin

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And the updated artwork:  I like the all white bezel but the guy doing it for me likes the black/white one.  Thoughts?



Here's what we are looking at with the side art.  Shrinking the conference logo and the NHL94 logo, possibly moving the conference logo closer to the bottom and removing the small NHL and NHLPA logos under the CP (because of the side buttons).  I definitely like this background better.
« Last Edit: December 10, 2014, 06:17:35 pm by Frank Drebin »

ChanceKJ

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Adding those Confrence logos on the sides was a good call!

Frank Drebin

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With much help from the fella from BurdBros Arcade (Thanks Adam!) I have the Xin-Mo configured for the OUYA.  I will edit this post with some notes on what and what not to do.  An IPAC with software this is not! :dizzy:

rovingmind

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    • rovingmind
With much help from the fella from BurdBros Arcade (Thanks Adam!) I have the Xin-Mo configured for the OUYA.  I will edit this post with some notes on what and what not to do.  An IPAC with software this is not! :dizzy:

Awesome news on the Xin-Mo.

I like the latest side art background better than the cracked ice look also.
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHH!!!!!

Frank Drebin

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Awesome news on the Xin-Mo.

I like the latest side art background better than the cracked ice look also.

Thanks for the input.

Now for my likely pathetic and confusing tutorial on how I got to where I'm at right now.

1) Root the OUYA. - This allows you to get into the system files where the keylayout files are stored (system/usr/keylayout).  You can create a new keylayout file on your windows computer and transfer it to your ouya via USB.  I'll get to this later.   At this time you should install a file manager on your OUYA like ES file manager.  You will need this to copy keylayout files back and forth between the OUYA and PC.

At one time there was actually an app (One click root) that you could sideload and you could literally root your machine with one click.  With the recent OUYA upgrades unfortunately this doesn't work anymore.  I used "Ouya toolbox".  When you are looking how to install this please note that it's a little trickier to install OUYA drivers on Windows 8.1.

2) Install keytest on your ouya. - What this does is records a scancode from your input device.  By default this scancode is given a output in a generic or assigned keylayout file.  For example in this picture



A button on the input device (lets say its the letter "a" on your keyboard) has a scancode of 116.  In the keylayout file the scancode 116 is assigned to [Power]  The [Action_Down] I assume is when the key is pressed down..  If you wanted to change what the letter "a" on your keyboard does you would edit your keylayout file to change what scancode 116 does.

I got confused with the keycodes and the scancodes.  The keycodes are soft and the scancodes are hard.  Basically what that means is that the letter "a" on your keyboard will always give the same scancode.  The keycode is just a number that goes along with the action code.  For example [Action_Down] will always give a keycode of 26 no matter what keyboard button that action is assigned to.

Cliffs: Ignore keycodes.  They are what they are.

Now you will take your input device (XIN-MO for example) and record all of the scancodes for all of the inputs.  Here were my results, along with the default assigned keycodes.  I have also included a diagram with the action assignments for all the control inputs.



Continued in next post...
« Last Edit: December 19, 2014, 04:30:09 pm by Frank Drebin »

Frank Drebin

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3) Build your keylayout file.

Now I've read different things on this, but I did read somewhere that you cannot create/edit a keylayout file in notepad.  It was suggested to use PSPad (Free)
When you use PS pad there is a selection on the bottom that can be toggled between "DOS", "UNIX", and "MAC".  Make sure it is selected to UNIX when editing and saving.

A keylayout file is basically a file that looks like this:

# Copyright (C) 2010 The Android Open Source Project
#
# Licensed under the Apache License, Version 2.0 (the "License");
# you may not use this file except in compliance with the License.
# You may obtain a copy of the License at
#
#      http://www.apache.org/licenses/LICENSE-2.0
#
# Unless required by applicable law or agreed to in writing, software
# distributed under the License is distributed on an "AS IS" BASIS,
# WITHOUT WARRANTIES OR CONDITIONS OF ANY KIND, either express or implied.
# See the License for the specific language governing permissions and
# limitations under the License.

#
# Generic key layout file for full alphabetic US English PC style external keyboards.
#
# This file is intentionally very generic and is intended to support a broad rang of keyboards.
# Do not edit the generic key layout to support a specific keyboard; instead, create
# a new key layout file with the required keyboard configuration.
#

key 1     ESCAPE
key 2     1
key 3     2
key 4     3
key 5     4
key 6     5
key 7     6
key 8     7
key 9     8
key 10    9
key 11    0
key 12    MINUS
key 13    EQUALS
key 14    DEL
key 15    TAB
key 16    Q
key 17    W
key 18    E
key 19    R
key 20    T
key 21    Y
key 22    U
key 23    I
key 24    O
key 25    P
....


Etc.  all the way to the 400's.

So that is where you take your scancodes from your input device and assign them outputs to your ouya.

For example, at the bottom right corner of my XIN-MO I have scancode 288.  If I wanted that to be the L2 button, I would write in the keytest file

key 288   Button_R2

And so on.  You only need the scancode inputs that your device has, for example the XIN MO only has inputs from ~280-320 so the ones from 1-280 and from 320 + can be deleted from the keylayout file.

One thing I noticed is that I had some inputs on the XIN-MO that did not have scancodes but had keycodes, (19,20,21,22)  These are the default D pad inputs (U,D,L,R)and cannot be reassigned.  Don't ask why.  I think it has something with them being analog inputs?

Once you have your keylayout file built you need to save it with a device specific name.

The default naming scheme is:

Vendor_XXXX_Product_XXXX.kl

Now to find the vendor and product ID:

Go to "view devices and printers" in My computer. > Right click on your input device > properties > hardware > properties > details > now select : "hardware lds"

You will be given a list that should look like this:

HID\VID_16C0&PID_05E1&REV_0100&Col02

HID\VID_16C0&PID_05E1&Col02

HID_DEVICE_SYSTEM_GAME

HID_DEVICE_UP:0001_U:0004

HID_DEVICE

The red is your vendor ID and the green is your product ID.  So your keylayout will be saved as : Vendor_16c0_Product_05e1.kl

Capitals are important!  Adam sent me a file that was labled with a .KL and the capital letters on the extension prevented it from working.

Now drag this file to your keylayout file in your OUYA, restart and it should be good to go. 

AzureKnight

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On the art, I like that background a lot better.

Frank Drebin

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On the art, I like that background a lot better.
Its so much nicer and true to the game isn't it?

This is pretty much the final draft with the location of the trigger buttons mapped.  The blue dot will of course be removed prior to printing.

Any experts that can help me order from souldraw with measurements?


Frank Drebin

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Ok got my buttons from GGG today.  Little problem.  The buttons with the switches are a little too long and don't fit where the joystick is.

Is there such a thing as buttons with integrated switches like the ones  I got from Ebay?  Be$$ides these ones from Happ?

http://na.suzohapp.com/all_catalogs/pushbuttons/RBM-730S-F66
Would hate to not be able to use the chromalite buttons all around.  They look so damn good.


Little bit of progress pics:

Where the OUYA will be mounted (under the CP)

Speakers wired up and mounted (just hot glue)





Frank Drebin

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Well ordered the Seismitsu PS-14-KN in clear for the 4 front admin buttons and the two side trigger buttons.  Should be a nice compromise and maybe even look better than the chromalite, if I can use the blue ice on the inside.



Budget?

Frank Drebin

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Should be here in a week or 2!
« Reply #86 on: February 03, 2015, 08:22:40 pm »

ChanceKJ

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Das pretty.  :D

I like how the whole thing looks like ice. Clever.

Frank Drebin

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Ordered some of this for the marquee retainer: - 1/2" chrome outside corner molding



http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001C7NE26/ref=pe_386430_126088100_TE_item

bfauska

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Looking good but you should probably add a joystick.  :laugh2:

That chrome moulding for the marquee should go really well with the chrome t-moulding.

05SRT4

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Looks awesome, I also dig the couple making out in the corner!!

Quick question about the buttons near the speakers, are those always lit? Do they add any glare to the pexi-glass.

Frank Drebin

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Looks awesome, I also dig the couple making out in the corner!!

Quick question about the buttons near the speakers, are those always lit? Do they add any glare to the pexi-glass.

Not going to light them for that very reason.  They just looked better than the standard white buttons.  They are for volume control.

ChanceKJ

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It's hard to make chrome T-Moulding look anything but tacky. Good job! :D

Frank Drebin

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OK outside is done, and quite frankly, the OUYA is not worth the effort to try and get it working with the nostalgia front end.  I grabbed a PI2 and will run retropie instead.

Anyways, some pics: