Cybercade - Lots of construction photos added...still a lot to do!

[AzureKnight]

I'm going to start off with an oft repeated but still very applicable intro...I've been lurking on this forum on and off for a long time, heavily for the past 4 years.  As a kid I always dreamed of owning an arcade and now I've finally gotten enough remodeling done on my house that my wife has given me the OK to build my arcade machine (all you single guys with rows of cabinets I'm jealous  ).

Starting Aug 4th I'm on vacation for two weeks to put siding on my house and start on my arcade cabinet.  I'm not much of a woodworker but my uncle is and he'll be here to help out and I can't tell you how excited I am after planning/gathering parts for the last 4 years.

Onto the details! 

• Monitor:  Wells Gardner D9400 27"
• Joysticks:  2 Happ Competions (P1 and P2), 2 Happ Rotary (P3 and P4), Minigrip Flight Stick (P1 second joystick)
• Buttons:  Happ concaves standard microswitch
• Boards:  I-Pac 4 (and 2 to handle the flight stick), Ultimarc Rotary Interface
• Trackball:  U-Trak
• 4 Player Coin Door.
• Dell desktop tower running windows XP/Mala/Johnny5 for instruction splash screens.
• Emulators: Mame, NES, Sega Genesis, Atari 2600
• Spinner and Light gun to be added later.

My plan is to have the cabinet with body design similar to Gauntlet (a favorite of mine).  My original cp (you can see the artwork thread I posted a week ago in the artwork forum) was 48" and when I mocked it up in cardboard it was just too wide.  So I slimmed it down to 42" x 18".  lamprey, thanks for the input on the artwork thread, my rework tried to make things a bit more symmetrical (still not perfect but I do like it better).  For the marquee art the two large hex areas will be covered by a couple of speaker grills.

I will say...after lurking here for so long and reading thread after thread with incredible designs I just couldn't build a standard arcade cabinet anymore.  While I certainly don't have any illusions about creating something to rival some of the builds I have seen on this forum you guys have encouraged me to up my game some.  So with that in mind I'm adding a few "bling" features to the cab.

Instead of side art I have decided to go with a hexagon shaped infinity lamp (see photo below).  I saw one years ago and thought it was awesome so I have ordered a couple of one way mirrors and an led strip so that I can put an infinity lamp in each side. 

For the cp, I'm going to attempt something that I fear might  not work but time will tell.  If you look at my cp art I was going for a sci-fi glass touch screen look.  So I got to thinking about something Scott (PL1) posted in another one of my threads as well as what Sjaak did with his Dark Neon build.  What if I take a sheet of 1/8" hardboard and cut out 1/8" plexiglass panels where I have the hex glass panels in my cp art.  Then I can cut my artwork up and mount all the hex grid panels under the plexiglass and edge light the panels.  This will allow them to actually glow and create a bit of a 3D depth to the panel.  I'll put a 1/16" layer of plexi over the top of the entire cp.  I fear that description was pretty horrible so if it doesn't make sense please feel free to ask me to clarify!  If not I'll be posting pictures as I go.

So any thoughts on why that cp design is a mistake is certainly welcome!

Lastly I just want to close with a big thank you to all of you here.  I've learned a ton and more than that, found a group of people that share my passion for arcade games.  This has fueled my desire to complete this project. 

[AzureKnight]

I finalized the artwork and sent it off to GameonGrafix for printing last night!  I dropped some of the artificial glow effects as well as one of the layers below the player panels.  Since I've decided to try to use inset plexi to light up those areas those elements had to go due to depth.

I've posted the new art for anyone that cares.  Ironically I like it better without the glow so it is a win/win.

I also placed the order for all the plexiglass and mirrors for the side lighting.

[Slippyblade]

Interesting concept.  I'm following. 

[AzureKnight]

I had my two week vacation and as expected finished all the remodeling jobs I had planned, that meant the extra time was open for my cabinet construction!

Here are the results so far:



I am thrilled it is coming along so well.  In terms of cabinet construction I need to mount one back panel still and I have to add a lot of hardware (hinges to the cp top, clamps to hold the cp in place, clamp on the front of the cabinet which is hinged).

The only thing I am slightly disappointed with so far is the placement of the hex on the side.  I positioned it when the sides were laying flat and I was worried that they would  be too close to the monitor inside to not allow me to fit the mirrors and lights behind them.  So I went cautiously and moved them back and down.  I really wish they were higher, it turns out I had the room to do it.  I know I could plug and recut them but I think I'll just come up with some artwork to fill the space instead.  Overall that is a really nitpicky complaint.

The amount of routing work that went into the cp was crazy.  Because I am attempting to do the what I have dubbed the plexi/hardboard sandwhich on top of the control panel it meant that we had to route out the edges of the cp all the way around and then offset the t-molding slot so that it would all fit together under the t-molding.  It also meant I had to recess the bottom for my trackball and of course all the standard recessing for joysticks.  I've never used a router before this project and it was easier than I had feared and a lot of fun overall.

As for that crazy plexi/hardboard sandwich I was talking about I made some progress on that front as well.  I got the first section cut out of the hardboard and then started to work on the plexi. 



I've never really worked with plexiglass before (at least not since 8th grade shop class and that was over 25 years ago now).  I should have done myself a favor and made my artwork a lot simpler....but I didn't    That means getting a lot of small angled cuts in the plexi, I was able to score and break a longer cut or two, then my hope was to slowly score my way through the smaller cuts.  I'm sure anyone who has worked with plastic is now laughing at my ignorance, that was not going to happen in any reality that involves physics.  So my next attempt was to try my dremel rotary tool...I was worried about fracturing and more importantly melting but I figured I would give it a go.  I had some reinforced blades that were for cutting metal and the package said they were also good for plastics so I tried those.  I had to work slow in small pulses to avoid heating but in the end it worked incredibly well!!!!!   

In 15 minutes or so I had the top half of the piece ready to go.  Tonight I should have some more time to finish this piece and then I'll wire it up with the LEDs and see if all this effort is going to achieve the effect I am hoping for (edge lit colored panels for each player).



More to come soon (I also have more photos of construction but I took those on my camera and the port to unload them to my computer broke so it will take me a bit of time to get them off of my SD card).

[Slippyblade]

If you have access to a band saw or a scroll saw with variable speed it will make your plexi cuts a TON easier.

[AzureKnight]

Unfortunately I don't, only a Sabre or Circular saw.

[diablo846]

very nice soo far looks really good

[AzureKnight]

Thanks, progress has been slow due to lack of time.

I finished the first plexi cut out and got the beveled edge onto it.  I need to sand it down now.  I've also worked on the hard board some more as well so that has the cutout done for P1 and P2 and the template for cutting the others is all set.  Slow but sure progress.  It will never be accused of being a good job but I think it will be adequate and given it is my first time working with the material I am fairly happy so far.

I mocked up some LED lights with the plexi/hardboard a few nights ago and I wasn't happy with the outcome.  I was hoping to get by with a string of LED holiday lights I have as purchasing more for this beast is a bit of an argument with the wife right now.  But it just isn't going to work, they are too dim.  So I am investigating other LED options.

Does anyone know any good LED wiring tutorials?  I've looked a bit on the forum but didn't spot any, I'll look more later but if someone has it bookmarked....
 

[Generic Eric]

Does anyone know any good LED wiring tutorials?  I've looked a bit on the forum but didn't spot any, I'll look more later but if someone has it bookmarked....

Consider instructables, or adafruit.  What do you want the LEDs to do?  Do they change color or blink?  Around holiday season there is usually a new hack for a new string of LEDs because the controller changed. 

2 suggestions.  Put the LED part on hold, finish the rest of the cab.  You can always add that later.  A clear head and more research time will allow you to come back at it with a clear head.  If its finished other than the LED, the wife may notice when you finally do spend more money to find something that works. 

Post a picture of the string of lights you are using.  Show us the mock up.

Are you hacking the string of lights to make them do something different?  Or did you get them for cheap LEDs?

[PL1]

Does anyone know any good LED wiring tutorials?

Helps to know what LEDs and controller (if any) you plan on using. 

Are you doing single-color-always-on or single-color with animation or RGB with animation?

Check out this thread for several LEDwiz wiring diagrams.


Scott

[AzureKnight]

All very valid questions, I should have been more clear up front!

I'll get a photo tonight when I am home of what I have so far.  The lights I have are just a standard LED Christmas light string that I had used on my house for the holidays.  I was stealing it for the cab 

My thought is that the lumens on the christmas lights are just too low and a brighter LED would solve my problem.

The desired goal:  Steady color always on.  Blue lights running to P1, Red lights to P2, Green lights to P3, Yellow Lights to P4 and some White lights to the other areas.  If you look on my artwork linked above in the thread you should see the areas I am talking about.  Around each set of player controls is a "hex grid".  Those are what I am doing the plexiglass cut-outs for.  I want to bevel the edges of those plexiglass cutouts and edge light them so the outer edges of each cut out light up in the color of the player (or neutral white for the spinner/admin button).

The hardboard is cut out to hold the plexiglass cutouts (see photos above).  So the LED lights will be running up through the cp in pre-drilled holes up to the edges of the plexiglass cutouts to highlight them.  I am guessing 4-8 lights per big panel 

When I ran the Christmas lights up under the P1 panel...almost no lighting showed whatsoever, there was just too much light lost out the sides of the bulb and they just were not bright enough.  So I am hoping that a more powerful directional LED (I was looking at the ones for sale on GroovyGameGear) will solve the issue.

I appreciate the help everyone.



So (given my small understanding of wiring LEDs) I was going to not bother with a controller at all.  Just a direct wire with resistor coming from the PC power supply.  Basically I am looking for simple in this case.

[Generic Eric]

So (given my small understanding of wiring LEDs) I was going to not bother with a controller at all.  Just a direct wire with resistor coming from the PC power supply.  Basically I am looking for simple in this case.

Are they RGB leds? Or do you have different strands? 

[AzureKnight]

Other than the Xmas lights I don't have anything yet.  I was looking at buying these:

Blue Lights: http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83&products_id=263
Green Lights: http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83&products_id=265
Red Lights: http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83&products_id=264
Yellow Lights: http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83&products_id=266
White Lights: http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83&products_id=267

But as I am still researching/learning how to do the LEDs they might not be my best option.  So if you have any recommendations I am all ears (or eyes in the case of a forum).

[PL1]

The desired goal:  Steady color always on.  Blue lights running to P1, Red lights to P2, Green lights to P3, Yellow Lights to P4 and some White lights to the other areas.  If you look on my artwork linked above in the thread you should see the areas I am talking about.  Around each set of player controls is a "hex grid".  Those are what I am doing the plexiglass cut-outs for.  I want to bevel the edges of those plexiglass cutouts and edge light them so the outer edges of each cut out light up in the color of the player (or neutral white for the spinner/admin button).
. . .
So (given my small understanding of wiring LEDs) I was going to not bother with a controller at all.  Just a direct wire with resistor coming from the PC power supply.  Basically I am looking for simple in this case.

What buttons do you have in mind?

You can mod buttons with LEDs like you linked, but you may want to consider buying buttons designed with built-in LED sockets and diffusers.

PROTIP: When you order the yellow LED buttons, make SURE that the vendor uses white (not yellow) LEDs in them, unless you want muddy orange buttons.   

Assuming that you use either GGG Spectralite or Paradise Arcade's translucent buttons, the easiest way to wire them is using two .250" daisy chains like these.

 

I like to turn the LEDs so the negative lead is on the side with the big black plastic tab on the switch holder -- black wire (-) goes with black tab and red (+) goes with the other tab like this.



BTW, you can run the Paradise 12v LEDs on 5v if you want to reduce the current draw like this.   


Scott

[AzureKnight]

I'm afraid I am not being clear (or attempting something really foolish). 

I am not lighting up the buttons.

I'll make sure I post the photos I have tonight but my intention is not to have the buttons light up at all.  The buttons will be in the plexiglass cutouts and the plexiglass will be lit.

For the moment I will do a little ASCII drawing, this is a profile of my cp.

 +  is hardboard
 -   is plexiglass
 =  cp wood
 L   LED light

   -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------    <-- Thin layer of covering plexi
   +++++-----P3-----+++++-----P1-----+++++-----P2-----+++++-----P4-----+++++   <-- The hardboard/plexi cutout mess
   ====L========L===L=======L====L=======L====L=======L====    <-- The wood CP with the LEDs coming up through it.


The plan here is to have the LED lights "hidden" under the hardboard portions and just lighting up the edges of the plexiglass cutouts.

This whole idea originated from a crazy thought I had.  The look of the art is to simulate a glass sci-fi looking touch screen for each set of controls.  So I got to thinking...what if I try to make each set of controls a plexiglass panel that lit up?  I don't know if I will succeed but that is the goal.

[AzureKnight]

PROTIP: When you order the yellow LED buttons, make SURE that the vendor uses white (not yellow) LEDs in them, unless you want muddy orange buttons.   

That is great to know, thank you.

Assuming that you use either GGG Spectralite or Paradise Arcade's translucent buttons, the easiest way to wire them is using two .250" daisy chains like these.

BTW, you can run the Paradise 12v LEDs on 5v if you want to reduce the current draw like this.   


Scott

Also very helpful, thank you.

[Generic Eric]

You want to do edge lighting like its done here?

[AzureKnight]

Eric,

Yes, sort of. 

As I mentioned in the first post of this thread Dark Neon was part of the inspiration for this.  But unlike his layout with has the entire plexiglass grooved and edge lit, I am attempting to edge light multiple smaller plexiglass inserts (what I have been calling the "cutouts").

Look at my photos above in the 3rd post.  There you can see the hardboard with the first hole cut out and the first plexiglass insert halfway cut (just the top of it is done at that point). 

I am attempting to edge light multiple places on the cp in different color.  There is another thinner piece of plexi sitting on top of the entire mess.

[PL1]

I'm afraid I am not being clear (or attempting something really foolish). 

I am not lighting up the buttons.

I'll make sure I post the photos I have tonight but my intention is not to have the buttons light up at all.  The buttons will be in the plexiglass cutouts and the plexiglass will be lit.

OK.  Now I'm getting the picture.

You're looking for a back-lit layer with a partly-translucent CPO on top.

HDPE like the quick-and-dirty 1/2" cutting board mockup here makes a great diffuser.



You could probably use 1/4" HDPE.

If you want to prevent the colors from bleeding together, cut the HDPE into the color areas and paint the edges between colors.


Scott

[AzureKnight]

Scott, that is an interesting option but I think I would have a different effect from that...

Let me add one more oddity to the mix here, my artwork.  I mentioned this in the original post but I will elaborate here.  I plan on cutting up my CP art.  Most of the art will live on top of the hardboard, but where the plexiglass inserts are, that art with the colored hex grids will sit below the plexiglass inserts.  In this case the HDPE would hide the artwork.

Now if I wanted to keep the art all on one layer, I could use the HDPE instead of the plexi as the cutouts and bottom light it all....that is a very interesting idea as well.

Assuming I understand what you are suggesting.  I'm not sure how that would look, it could be cool.

To take the crazy to the final level here is my ASCII with the artwork layer added in:

 +  is hardboard
 -   is plexiglass
 =  cp wood
 L   LED light
 A  artwork

   -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------    <-- Thin layer of covering plexi
   AAAAA                  AAAAA                 AAAAAA                AAAAAA                AAAAAA   <-- Artwork layer 1
   +++++-----P3-----+++++-----P1-----+++++-----P2-----+++++-----P4-----+++++   <-- The hardboard/plexi cutout mess
              AAAAAAAAA          AAAAAAAA            AAAAAAAA             AAAAAAAA              <-- Artwork layer 2
   ====L========L===L=======L====L=======L====L=======L====    <-- The wood CP with the LEDs coming up through it.

Will this crazy mess work?  I have no idea, in my head it sounds cool and I haven't seen anyone else try anything like it yet so I figured I would go for it.  I doubt I will ever have more than one cab, just the realities of my home life.  So I want to have some fun with this build and challenge myself and expand my skills.

If it works I'll be thrilled, if it fails I can just scrap all this stuff and have a nice normal CP 

[yotsuya]

I like the sound of the 3D idea and hope you can pull it off. 

[Generic Eric]

:erf:

Missed that. 

[PL1]

Without a diffusion layer between the LEDs and the 2nd artwork layer, you'll get hot spots.

An alternate approach is to edge-light the plexi part of the "hardboard/plexi cutout mess" by bending the LEDs horizontal and running the leads down through the CP.

Route a space for the LED in the under-side of the hardboard.


Scott

[diablo846]

azure you mentioned that you beveled the plexi i am not sure how thick the plexi is but if you want a nice polished look on the edges sand it down with fine sand paper till it is white in color and hit it with a torch... will give it a nice polished look, but will only work with plexi glass will not work with lexan try it on a scrap piece i think you will be happy with the results

[AzureKnight]

I took those photos last night:

Here you can see the core CP with the hardbard side by side with one of the plexiglass cutouts laying on top:


Hardboard lined up on top of the core CP:


With Plexiglass cutout in place:


This is a mocked up piece of wood that is simulating the core CP, I have some holes drilled into it and my Christmas lights fed up through the holes:


Mockup with the plexiglass lined up for reference:


Then entire mockup lights off:


The entire mockup lights on:


Lastly, I took a shot of the edge of the core CP where I routed down the thickness of the outer edge so that my T-molding will still fit with all of the hardboard/plexi on top.  The T-molding slot is offset as well but that is tough to see in the photo:


I should have snapped a photo with demo artwork in place but I didn't think of it, maybe tonight.

Overall the effect just isn't bright enough.  I think Scott's suggestion to tip the LED on edge is a good one.  I need to buy brighter LEDs I think, try to lay them parallel to the hardboard.  Both the hardboard and the plexiglass cutouts are 1/8" so I don't have a lot of room to cut into the hardboard, but I would like to at least reduce hotspots, while still maintaining the edge lighting of the bevel.

Any thoughts or other suggestions are very welcome in figuring this out.

[AzureKnight]

Missed that.

   No worries, I think most people just skimmed my original post and I understand why, "here is another first time builder cranking out a frankenpanel with -cade in the name, cool welcome to the club, I'll look at some photos as it finishes".

I suspect that because I have skimmed thread that way 

[AzureKnight]

Without a diffusion layer between the LEDs and the 2nd artwork layer, you'll get hot spots.

An alternate approach is to edge-light the plexi part of the "hardboard/plexi cutout mess" by bending the LEDs horizontal and running the leads down through the CP.

Route a space for the LED in the under-side of the hardboard.


Scott

I think this is a great suggestion, I would like to reduce the hotspots and I'm guessing it will help maximize the edge lighting as well.  I just don't have a lot of room to work with on a 1/8" thick hardboard.  I might have to route down into the core CP a bit too and try to angle it.  That's what scrap is for!

One question, this image looks like it has exposed wires, I'm pretty much a rookie in the electronics/wiring world.  Do I have to worry about that or is it fine because they are so low voltage?

[AzureKnight]

azure you mentioned that you beveled the plexi i am not sure how thick the plexi is but if you want a nice polished look on the edges sand it down with fine sand paper till it is white in color and hit it with a torch... will give it a nice polished look, but will only work with plexi glass will not work with lexan try it on a scrap piece i think you will be happy with the results

I have plexiglass, not lexan so that is fine.  I don't have a torch, are there other options?  Could I lightly run it through my stovetop flame?  Heat gun?  I know from what I have read that it has to be a quick pass or you warp/melt the piece too much.  I suppose I might be able to rent a torch.

With the artwork in place and this edge mostly facing the hardboard it won't be highly visible, so I guess my big question is will the fire polish make it light up better?

[Generic Eric]

I know it is difficult to take pictures of LEDS.  It looks like they are too far way.  I've bought some stuff for a project like yours, but its still on a shelf. 

I have LEDs very similar to the ones in this video.  Maybe you can do something similar.  The cool thing with that spool is you can cut shorter lengths from it.  Or connect it to more spools. 



Here are some instructables that go in detail about the different LED types.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Edge-Lit-Displays/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Edge-Lit-Acrylic-Sign/

[AzureKnight]

I know it is difficult to take pictures of LEDS.  It looks like they are too far way. 

The Xmas lights just barely poke out of the holes they are in so that they don't push up on the layer above.  I think Scott is right, I need to get them up out of the hole.  I also think the Xmas lights just diffuse too much of their light in every direction so it is lost.

I have LEDs very similar to the ones in this video.  Maybe you can do something similar.  The cool thing with that spool is you can cut shorter lengths from it.  Or connect it to more spools. 

I have a ribbon of LED for the side lighting I'm doing, they are cool.  I just couldn't figure out where to try to fit one into all of this.

[PL1]

One question, this image looks like it has exposed wires, I'm pretty much a rookie in the electronics/wiring world.  Do I have to worry about that or is it fine because they are so low voltage?

It's not wired up -- just slapped together a few bits to one-up your ASCII art.   

If you want to insulate the leads, just strip insulation off some wire and use that.

High voltage or low, unintentional short-circuits are never a good thing.


Scott

[AzureKnight]

It's not wired up -- just slapped together a few bits to one-up your ASCII art.   

If you want to insulate the leads, just strip insulation off some wire and use that.

High voltage or low, unintentional short-circuits are never a good thing.

That makes complete sense and it definitely is one up on my ASCII art 

OK, I'm liking this, I think I have to place an order for those LEDs that I can start playing with.

If I just want them steady on, I can just buy the right color LED and wire it into the PC power supply without any controller correct (with resistor of course)?

[PL1]

Easiest way to wire those Button Blaster LEDs is to use GGG euro-style terminals cut into 3-terminal pieces.

Mount the terminals on the underside of the CP and bend the LED leads into a U-shape for easy removal/replacement.   

   -- LED
  |
   -- Terminals

Connect one red wire to the molex 5v (red) and one black wire to the molex ground (black), daisy chain as many more as you want using the second red and black wires. 


Scott
EDIT: Also remember to calculate the current draw based on how many LEDs you use to ensure you use a large enough wire gauge.

[Generic Eric]

I really like where this is going.  Thank goodness this is Friday.  At this rate, there is a good chance Scott is going to have a full blown mock up.

+1

[AzureKnight]

I really like where this is going.  Thank goodness this is Friday.  At this rate, there is a good chance Scott is going to have a full blown mock up.

+1

 

Scott and Eric thank you, this is exactly what I need.  I'm going to place a GGG order this weekend after I do a bit more ready and some tinkering.  Thank you both.  More to come!

[PL1]

I really like where this is going.  Thank goodness this is Friday.  At this rate, there is a good chance Scott is going to have a full blown mock up.

+1

Just pulled parts out of the parts bins and bent one resistor.   


Scott

[diablo846]

azure you mentioned that you beveled the plexi i am not sure how thick the plexi is but if you want a nice polished look on the edges sand it down with fine sand paper till it is white in color and hit it with a torch... will give it a nice polished look, but will only work with plexi glass will not work with lexan try it on a scrap piece i think you will be happy with the results

I have plexiglass, not lexan so that is fine.  I don't have a torch, are there other options?  Could I lightly run it through my stovetop flame?  Heat gun?  I know from what I have read that it has to be a quick pass or you warp/melt the piece too much.  I suppose I might be able to rent a torch.

With the artwork in place and this edge mostly facing the hardboard it won't be highly visible, so I guess my big question is will the fire polish make it light up better?

[diablo846]

azure you mentioned that you beveled the plexi i am not sure how thick the plexi is but if you want a nice polished look on the edges sand it down with fine sand paper till it is white in color and hit it with a torch... will give it a nice polished look, but will only work with plexi glass will not work with lexan try it on a scrap piece i think you will be happy with the results

I have plexiglass, not lexan so that is fine.  I don't have a torch, are there other options?  Could I lightly run it through my stovetop flame?  Heat gun?  I know from what I have read that it has to be a quick pass or you warp/melt the piece too much.  I suppose I might be able to rent a torch.

With the artwork in place and this edge mostly facing the hardboard it won't be highly visible, so I guess my big question is will the fire polish make it light up better?

azure you mentioned that you beveled the plexi i am not sure how thick the plexi is but if you want a nice polished look on the edges sand it down with fine sand paper till it is white in color and hit it with a torch... will give it a nice polished look, but will only work with plexi glass will not work with lexan try it on a scrap piece i think you will be happy with the results

I have plexiglass, not lexan so that is fine.  I don't have a torch, are there other options?  Could I lightly run it through my stovetop flame?  Heat gun?  I know from what I have read that it has to be a quick pass or you warp/melt the piece too much.  I suppose I might be able to rent a torch.

With the artwork in place and this edge mostly facing the hardboard it won't be highly visible, so I guess my big question is will the fire polish make it light up better?

yes the polished edge will show the light better and yes you will have to do it fast, that is why i say use a scrap piece first you might not like the results after it is lit up but i am pretty sure that you will, something to keep in mind is the smoother the sand paper the faster it will polish due to the finer scrathes melting faster. And honestly azure i have never tried it with a heat gun i would be worried that you would have to hold it on there too long and the plexi would warp

[PL1]

If you do the flame polishing trick, be sure that no alcohol (Windex, etc.) comes in contact with it.

See the thread here for more info.




Scott

[Generic Eric]

zoinks indeed!  Listen to that guy.  He has a bandage on 2/3rds of his hand!

OTOH if you are making backlit plexi snow flakes...go for it!