What do you use to fasten your joystick to the wood?

[SpatzST]

I was in the hardware store getting MDF and I was going to grab something to tighten the joystick down when I realized, i have no idea what to buy.  I want screws because they will be flush with the surface of the wood, but then how does that screw actually hold the plate? So I figured i'd get a bolt, and put nut/washer on the bottom, but bolts wont sit flush with the top of the wood... 

what the heck do I use?

forgive me for what I assume is a really simple answer, I am new to all of it

[PL1]

When in doubt, check the FAQ.   

There's a good section on hardware pros/cons, links to threaded inserts (GGG and Ultimarc versions), 6 different joystick mounting method diagrams, and associated pics for two of the diagrams.

Let me know if anything isn't clear.   


Scott

[edekoning]

Gotta love the new wiki, its so much better than the old one.

Anyway I used the 'Under mount (tee-nuts)' option on my cab: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,119175.msg1355402.html#msg1355402

[PL1]

Gotta love the new wiki, its so much better than the old one.

Thanks!  Felsir has really done an awesome job cranking out great text and pics for the new FAQ -- it would have taken years to get this far without him.   


Scott

[SpatzST]

So it seems carriage bolts are easiest.. but can you recess a carriage bolt? My guess is no because you wouldn't be able to tighten it.

[lamprey]

Depends on how you are mounting the stick.

If you want to use a bolt and you want it flush, then you might want to use a flush mount bolt (not sure if that is the proper term). Here is a link to an image of what I speak of:

[SpatzST]

yep, thats what I want.  do you need to drill a hole first, then drop it in?

[lamprey]

yep, thats what I want.  do you need to drill a hole first, then drop it in?

Yeah, you can. You could also use t-nuts or inserts. But it's probably cheaper and easier to just get ones long enough to go through the CP and attach a nut on the bottom.

[Slippyblade]

I'm a huge fan of T-Nuts.  I'd used carriage bolts in my projects for a while, then decided to try T-Nuts.  Never using carriage bolts again.

[SpatzST]

really.  and t-nuts sit flush correct? I am just a little confused about how to correctly install them and not have any screw sticking out

You place the t-nut on the top side of the panel? then use a screw from the bottom of the panel to grab it and pull it into the board? and then it basically pulls it flush? Thats all i'm really concerned about, how flush it is.  I'll either do that, or one of those flush mounted bolts.

Once I get that installed, do you put something over it? Like wood filler or something?

[PL1]

In order to get them to sit flush, you'll need to use a forstner bit/spade bit/router bit to remove the blue area in this diagram.




Temporarily install the joystick using tee-nuts.  I prefer the ones on the right that use wire brads.  YMMV



Fill in the blue area with spackle/wood putty.

Once the spackle/wood putty dries, remove the joystick and sand the surface smooth.   

Protip: Use some tape or similar to block the wood putty from going down into the tee-nuts or you may end up pushing the putty up and damaging the finished surface when you tighten the screws.   

Make sure the screws are long enough to engage the tee-nut threads securely but not so long that they poke through.


Scott

[SpatzST]

The T nuts accept regular screws? Just need the correct length? I'll pick some up today and try it out.

Also are they reusable so I can test one and pull it out?

Thanks

[Slippyblade]

The T nuts accept regular screws? Just need the correct length? I'll pick some up today and try it out.

Also are they reusable so I can test one and pull it out?

Thanks

Yeah, they are re-usable.  Doing the putty, back-fill thing is not strictly needed either.  The finished product will look better if you do, but you don't have to.  And yes, a T-Nut uses a normal bolt.

[SpatzST]

I bought a tee nut today and a few flush bolts of varying sizes. I believe I did the TNut correctly. I drilled a hole large enough for the threaded part of the T, then screwed in from the other side. It seemed to bury fairly flush, but the screw I used also dug into the MDF. Anyhow so I removed the T nut to find that all the claws broke off lol. And thus ends my experience with the T Nuts. I ended up using a flush mount bolt and a but/washer. Works just fine and is hidden beneath the top of the wood.

[Slippyblade]

Keep in mind on the back side the bolt head would be against the joystick mounting plate, not bare MDF.  Also, you don't torque the bolt hard enough to bury the T-Nut, you drill/route a recess so the nut sits flush.  Never seen the cleats break off before either.  Sympathies on a poor experience.

[SpatzST]

sounds like I definitely did it wrong... I watched a video on it beforehand and thats what he said to do but.. whatever lol.. Same result with a flush bolt. and cheaper.. the damn t nuts were $1.50 each

[yotsuya]

I use carriage bolts, because that's how they did it back in the 80s. And we liked it!!!!

[SpatzST]

I use carriage bolts, because that's how they did it back in the 80s. And we liked it!!!!

lol, those are nice too. its definitely an option.  I was looking at some old pictures of arcade machines and realized how many of them have the 4 carriage bolts sticking out... you don't really notice it while you play

[yotsuya]

I use carriage bolts, because that's how they did it back in the 80s. And we liked it!!!!

lol, those are nice too. its definitely an option.  I was looking at some old pictures of arcade machines and realized how many of them have the 4 carriage bolts sticking out... you don't really notice it while you play

Yeah, I hear you. My first couple panels used screws from the bottom, but I learned to stop worrying and love the carriage bolt. Haven't looked back.

[Slippyblade]

sounds like I definitely did it wrong... I watched a video on it beforehand and thats what he said to do but.. whatever lol.. Same result with a flush bolt. and cheaper.. the damn t nuts were $1.50 each

Holy crap.  I think I pay 30 cents each for em from True Value hardware down the street.

[mgb]

I use carriage bolts, because that's how they did it back in the 80s. And we liked it!!!!

Amen to that brother.
why is everyone so anal about seeing any kind of hardware.
I thought the object was to re-create the arcade machines we loved back in the day.   

[Slippyblade]

I thought the object was to re-create the arcade machines we loved back in the day.   

Well, depends on how "authentic" you want to get.  Personally I will NOT smear pizza grease all over my joystick.  I will NOT dump soda into my buttons.  I will NOT have a coin mech that only registers every third quarter.

 

[PL1]

I removed the T nut to find that all the claws broke off lol.

The claw kind are better for real wood that compresses better than MDF.

That's why I recommended using the kind with the wire brads.

You can drill tiny pilot holes to start the brads easily in MDF.


Scott

[mgb]

I thought the object was to re-create the arcade machines we loved back in the day.   

Well, depends on how "authentic" you want to get.  Personally I will NOT smear pizza grease all over my joystick.  I will NOT dump soda into my buttons.  I will NOT have a coin mech that only registers every third quarter.

 

I like to leave burning cigarettes on my control panel just for that sweet nostalgia.

[SpatzST]

I removed the T nut to find that all the claws broke off lol.

The claw kind are better for real wood that compresses better than MDF.

That's why I recommended using the kind with the wire brads.

You can drill tiny pilot holes to start the brads easily in MDF.


Scott

Ahhh. I saw those, but didn't know what they were.  Yes, in the demo video I watched, they were using plywood and it seemed to sink in quite easily.

Either way, I think I will just stick to the flush nuts, however.... I just realized that using any type of screw from the top down would basically disallow the removal of the the joystick in the event I needed to remove it.. (assuming I had some kind of covering over the hole... But with a T-Nut I suppose thats not an issue since its reversed.

things to think about.

I'm just a little confused... what holds the the brad tee nuts in place? They seem to just be round pieces of metal with a few holes and a threaded center.

[PL1]

what holds the the brad tee nuts in place? They seem to just be round pieces of metal with a few holes and a threaded center.

The nails keep the nut from turning and also keep it from pushing up too easily.

BTW, if you drive the nail straight in (parallel to the screw) the main thing holding the nut down while loosening/tightening the screw is friction between the wood and nail.

if you angle the nails a bit (toenail them), it will greatly increase the holding strength.

This pic shows the process joining two boards, but it works the same way if you put the tee-nut in place of the vertical board and nail through the holes.




Scott

[SpatzST]

Oh so the T-nut has those 3 holes and I basically sink the tee nut a little, then nail it in?

[PL1]

Oh so the T-nut has those 3 holes and I basically sink the tee nut a little, then nail it in?

To be repetitively redundant with my earlier post here in the thread, YES!!   

If you're using a forstner or paddle bit, drill out the countersink area then drill the center hole the rest of the way through.

If you're using a router, drill the center hole first, drop in the tee nut, trace the flange so you know what area to countersink, remove the tee nut, and route out the countersink.

Don't try to use a regular large drill bit to remove the countersink because the bottom of the hole will be sloped instead of flat.

The tee-nuts are just below the blue countersink area of this cutaway diagram.



Scott

[SpatzST]

Thanks Scott. Like I said before, this is like my first ever wood working project so sometimes I just need that clarification

Thanks a lot for your help!

-Chris

[yotsuya]

Oh so the T-nut has those 3 holes and I basically sink the tee nut a little, then nail it in?

To be repetitively redundant with my earlier post here in the thread, YES!!   

Someone's been tweaking ScottBot's programming, I see.