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Author Topic: *UNNAMED* Taitorama build  (Read 15036 times)

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xandnic

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Re: *UNNAMED* Taitorama build
« Reply #40 on: January 25, 2014, 03:34:07 pm »
It looks interesting, will you be using limiter switches to stop it?

Yep, they're on their way. :)


By the way, FedEx really slapped my wrists on the Pololu parts.
I received my motor controller in December and about 4 weeks later they invoiced me for the import taxes

Ouch, did you order from the US Pololu website?  I found a Swedish guy that sells Pololu parts, http://www.lawicel-shop.se.  That doesn't help you much now, though.. :)


Any progress with your own build yet?

rockyrocket

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Re: *UNNAMED* Taitorama build
« Reply #41 on: January 26, 2014, 02:49:08 am »
If it helps, you can fit a 21" 4:3 into a taitorama but its close and the screen drops down below the CP and up into the marquee/speaker area.
You also need to decase the screen for clearance but it worked for me....
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129835.msg1328236.html#msg1328236
 

xandnic

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Re: *UNNAMED* Taitorama build
« Reply #42 on: January 26, 2014, 03:47:37 am »
If it helps, you can fit a 21" 4:3 into a taitorama but its close and the screen drops down below the CP and up into the marquee/speaker area.
You also need to decase the screen for clearance but it worked for me....
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129835.msg1328236.html#msg1328236

Thanks for the heads up! :cheers:  Approx how much did you have to drop the CP?

Maybe I'll go for a 19" 4:3 instead since they're much easier to come by.

rockyrocket

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Re: *UNNAMED* Taitorama build
« Reply #43 on: January 26, 2014, 08:01:42 am »
If it helps, you can fit a 21" 4:3 into a taitorama but its close and the screen drops down below the CP and up into the marquee/speaker area.
You also need to decase the screen for clearance but it worked for me....
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129835.msg1328236.html#msg1328236

Thanks for the heads up! :cheers:  Approx how much did you have to drop the CP?

Maybe I'll go for a 19" 4:3 instead since they're much easier to come by.
The thing to do (I think) is to work out the angle you want your CP to lay at then reference everything else from that.
Once you know where the back of the CP will be you can then tweak the screen angle to be behind it then finally set the speaker panel angle from the screen if that makes sense?.
Whatever screen size you go for the screen bezel will be square so if you make a square board the same size as the internal width of your cab you can then play with all the angles.
On my set up when the screen is in a vert position there is no visible screen bezel but the top and bottom 4" of the "square" are behind the panels.
If you can find one a 21" looks mighty good - and it fits better than a 19" - just saying :) .
The one bit of advice I will give is to put in a access door behind the screen, as I find it a pig to do anything behind mine just using the front door.
Good luck with the build!.
« Last Edit: January 26, 2014, 08:08:47 am by rockyrocket »

nanoflower

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Re: *UNNAMED* Taitorama build
« Reply #44 on: January 26, 2014, 04:55:02 pm »

Ouch, did you order from the US Pololu website?  I found a Swedish guy that sells Pololu parts, http://www.lawicel-shop.se.  That doesn't help you much now, though.. :)

Any progress with your own build yet?

yup, I ordered from the US site and took the beating. I have a tendency to learn things the hard way  ;D
Thanks for the Swedish link, I'll definitely be doing my shopping there in the future.

I'm taking a different approach to the build. The though is to get the hardware and software working first and then fit everything in a box afterwards.
I've put the PC together and I just started looking into setting up Hyperspin this evening - Which frontend are you going for?

Looking forward to seeing those limiter switches in action by the way, did you order anything specific or just some regular micro switches?

/Nano

xandnic

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Re: *UNNAMED* Taitorama build
« Reply #45 on: January 27, 2014, 02:29:34 am »
The thing to do (I think) is to work out the angle you want your CP to lay at then reference everything else from that.
Once you know where the back of the CP will be you can then tweak the screen angle to be behind it then finally set the speaker panel angle from the screen if that makes sense?.
Whatever screen size you go for the screen bezel will be square so if you make a square board the same size as the internal width of your cab you can then play with all the angles.
On my set up when the screen is in a vert position there is no visible screen bezel but the top and bottom 4" of the "square" are behind the panels.
If you can find one a 21" looks mighty good - and it fits better than a 19" - just saying :) .
The one bit of advice I will give is to put in a access door behind the screen, as I find it a pig to do anything behind mine just using the front door.
Good luck with the build!.

Thanks!

Unfortunately I didn't have a rotating monitor in mind when I had the CP bent.  I'll try to find a 20-21" monitor and work my way from there.


I've put the PC together and I just started looking into setting up Hyperspin this evening - Which frontend are you going for?

HyperSpin here too, I played around with it a couple of months ago.  What a PITA it is to set up, but it's nice eye candy. :)


Looking forward to seeing those limiter switches in action by the way, did you order anything specific or just some regular micro switches?

Regular NO/NC microswitches, bought them from Hong Kong just like I did with the DC motor.  The shipping cost was £2, cheaper than domestic shipping in Sweden, and it turned up in like 4-5 days.  Crazy.

xandnic

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Re: *UNNAMED* Taitorama build
« Reply #46 on: March 09, 2014, 12:10:58 pm »
Bought the plunge saw:




Cabinet base coming together: