Splicing up a new monitor question.

[alphadog808]

Hey guys,
   So I have a new chassis that I will be adding to my egret 29.  As expected, the egret harness and chassis harness don't match.  I believe I have the pinouts and just need to splice up the appropriate wire to wire as I don't have access to another matching molex or crimping tool.

My plan was to solder the wires together and shrink tube it.  Maybe electrical tape over it after as well.  Now, I figure that's no biggie for R,G,B, etc, but what about the 2 100V wires?  Is that enough insulation to be safe?  The egret is a metal cab so I'd like to keep the wiring safe. 

BTW, does anyone know why there are 2 100v inputs?  Just wondering why they wouldn't just tap off of one.

Any thoughts/recommendations on the right/safe way to do this?

BTW, the egret29 had a MS8-29FTB and I'm replacing it with a MS9-SU.

Thanks!

[lilshawn]

shrink tube will be fine. be sure to solder the wires first though. You don't want to just twist the wires together and then throw shrinktube over it.

as far as your 2 sets of wires...i have no idea about the wiring in your cabinet...perhaps you have a degauss switch in the coinbox area and that's what it's for. if that's the case, once you disconnect the monitor from the wiring, you wont have voltage on that set at all.

test with a volt meter to be sure. if it is in fact another 110 line, tape it off or (what i'd do...) remove it from the cabinet completely so it doesn't present an issue later on.

[alphadog808]

Thanks Shawn!  I appreciate the assistance!

Can someone confirm this for me?  I'd really not smoke something here 

So...here's the egret pinout. I snapshotted the area I'll be working with and have a link to the whole schem as well.

http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/images/b/b2/Taito_E29_wiringdiagram.pdf

here is the MS9 pinout


The egret(pins 1 and 3) look to be feeding 100v and if you look at the MS29 pinout, pins 6&7 want AC, so I *assumed* that they both wanted 100v AC? 

My plan was this,

MS9 pin -> Egret pin
1 - 7
2 - 8
3 - 9
4 - 10
5 -12
6 - 1
7 - 3
8 - blank
9 - 4
10 - 6

I also assume pins 9-4 and 10-6 are interchangable as well.  So I could go 9-6 and 10-4 if desired.

Am I right, or am I about to screw things up?  Thanks in advance!

[lilshawn]

YOU NEED TO MAINTAIN THE LIVE/NEUTRAL CONNECTION ON THE MONITOR.

i can't tell from your scematic how the rest of the AC is wired, but you will need to match up the white/black 100 volt lines with the white/black L-N whatever on your hooking up. some chassis have the neutral tied to the chassis ground. if you reverse them, you present a shock hazard to the exposed metal.

White is neutral and the black wire is live. Green is ground. if your monitor chassis is unlabeled as to what is what, the Live wire will first run through a Fuse before going any place else. Because this may be an EU cabinet, the live/neutral bay be blue/brown in that case the brown is the live and the blue is neutral.

other than that, your wiring adaption looks good.

[alphadog808]

Shawn, thank you so much!  I just checked, the Egret has a white and gray cable for each 100v.

the Ms9 has white and brown w/ white stripe.

the MS8 has white and red.  The way it was connected was the Egret's white was going to the MS8 Red and the Egret's gray was going to the MS8 White.

Does that help any?  Thank you so much!

[alphadog808]

Looks like pin3 on the egret is the hot one, correct?  I see it going to the fuse on this schem.
http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/images/b/b2/Taito_E29_wiringdiagram.pdf

So, I *think* the egret's pin 3(gray) goes to MS9's white(pin 6).  I was going to say MS9's brown w/ white due to color alone, but when I trace the wire to the board, I see that MS9's white wire is the closest wire to the fuse on the board and it has an "L" next to it.  So even though the color is not what I'm expecting, everything else points to the MS9 white being the hot one. 

Am I right?

[lilshawn]

they often switch just the hot (which is black wire) and so they make the switched hot wire gray.

you can confirm this by measuring for AC volts at this gray line and the other probe attached to earth ground. in a properly wired system, only the hot will have 100v AC with respect to ground. the neutral will not.

[alphadog808]

By fluke, by electrician friend came by and he showed me that trick as well. It is confirmed the Egret gray wire is hot.  If you look up at my edited response, it seems that gray one goes to the white cable on the MS9.  Even though the wiring scheme says otherwise, that white wire goes to a pin called L(vs. N, I assume Neutral).

[lilshawn]

Perfect! 

[alphadog808]

Hey Shawn,
  Just wanted to say thank you so much for the help and advice.   I finally got it hooked up and working!  I ran into some issues with the board set to 24khz whereas my old monitor was at 15khz, but figured it out.  Thanks so much!!

[lilshawn]

awesomesauce. Have some fun with it now! 

[alphadog808]

So, the monitor works, but I just noticed that the degauss is not.  When I press the degauss button, nothing happens.

I have pins 4 and 6 on the egret to pins 9 an 10 on the MS9, so I think that's right.  Could it be that the chassis is not setup to degauss?  This is a used monitor/chassis set, so I'm not sure what has been done to it.  Just wondering if I'm missing something...

[pbj]

First rule of this hobby - if it's working, leave it alone.

[alphadog808]

First rule of this hobby - if it's working, leave it alone.

haha, good point!  My calling card is, "tweak till you break it"!   I'm being very careful not to screw stuff up, but I was wondering why it didn't work...also because I saw some discoloration on the top and bottom left of the screen...