27" tv squeezing in

[dcninja]

I have a dynamo hs-5 cab coming to me next week. I looked it over and paid for it already.

That said I'm getting a 27" tube tv from my parents over chirstmas when I visit them...

Any chance I'll be able to squeeze the monitor into the cab? I've seen pics before but I'm not quite clear on how to mount a monitor to a cab. Any good tutorials here? I know I will probably have to decase it and that makes me nervous, but i can take my time, it's doable. Any help would be appreciated. THANKS!

[lilshawn]

the HS 5 is 30 inches wide...a 27 should fit...you will just have to make up some brackets for it.

sometimes you can modify the brackets the the 25 used (with some new holes) if not, a couple pieces of angle iron and some 2x4's will get'er knocked in there.

you basically want to remove the tube from the TV and attach the angle iron to the tabs on the corners of the tube. then attach the angle iron to the 2x4...and the 2x4 to the cabinet.

[dcninja]

after reading horror stories about de-casing i'm tempted to try to wedge it in there without taking it out. I dunno if that will work tho. I guess when the cab gets delivered, hopefully monday I'll figure it out. I used pc crt in the case for all of my other builds back in the day.

[lilshawn]

nothing wrong with de-casing. you just have to be careful you don't break anything.

you risk snapping off the neck of the tube or breaking a circuit board.

the only thing i can recommend is getting your TV working OUTSIDE the cabinet first...before you spend all the time getting it shoehorned in there, only to find out it's not going to work.

[dcninja]

i'm just scared of electrocuting myself to death. i know the tv works. it has component input and i have a hdmi to component converter. it's been off for quite some time tho, which should help with the electricity i think.

edit: snapping the tube? so the tube is in the rear of the tv where it bulges out I assume and it's not secured to anything?

[lilshawn]

yes, the tube has a thin glass neck that is easy to snap off. once it happens, it's game over.

if electricity concerns you, that's good. it means you're smart.

if it's been unplugged for quite a while the circuit boards are good. all you need to worry about is the tube, it can hold charge for quite a while.

[dcninja]

so just pop the anode cap, ground it out through a source other than myself, then I'm good to handle the tv with the case? no risk of getting shocked at that point?

[lilshawn]

yep, just an alligator clip wire attached to a screwdriver is all you need. clip the lead to the metal frame and poke it under the cap.

then you can peel back the cup and disconnect the clip from the "belly button".

[dcninja]

it sounds almost too easy and I've watched the youtubes... no chance of getting shocked once that is done? I can touch the tube and everything and the boards and not die? (i know to be very gentle or risk snapping them)

[Malenko]

just measure it first. I had to decase the 27" tube I put in my DyYnamo because of the speakers. That being said, since I didnt separate the board from the tube, I never had to pop the anode cap.

[lilshawn]

ive been shocked by the tube before. it carries a bit of a bite...but it's not particularly deadly. more like gnarly static discharge. the real danger is touching it while it's running.

much like anything that enters your body, there are circumstances it won't do anything, and others where it could probably kill you.

if you placed the ground lead over your heart and used a screwdriver to discharge the tube, you'd probably have a heart attack and die.

if you forgot to discharge the tube and took off the anode lead and got your finger close enough to touch the "belly button" you'd likely get a shock, rip your hand away and smack it against the frame and cut your knuckle.    It's not all that bad.

crackers can kill you if you eat them improperly.  I'm not saying it's safe to play with electricity, it's just everybody has to give you the worst case scenario of what might happen. yes virginia, there is 1000's of volts in there...just don't go discharging it through your brain and you'll do fine. This is why we discharge the tube.

Also, it's a good idea to re-discharge the tube before you go hook the anode back up to the belly button...the tubes can store electricity deep inside the glass and it can "charge" back up again as they sit.

[dcninja]

the only thing I know to do is remove the anode cap and discharge it, then put the cap back on...

is discharging the tube something different? or are you saying to do that twice to be sure?

[Malenko]

the only thing I know to do is remove the anode cap and discharge it, then put the cap back on...

is discharging the tube something different? or are you saying to do that twice to be sure?

Hes saying to do it twice.

[dcninja]

so i did all that and got it mounted nicely in my cab. mounted the pcb board and everything. plugged it in and no work. I think I broke it decasing it somehow. in any case, I'm going to go the lcd route I guess and buy a scanline generator thing... that said...

how do i remove this thing now? the board is screwed into the cab with 2 screws and the monitor is bolted in. i know I need to put the screwdriver + grounded wire into the anode cap to discharge...anything else I have to do? what about the board? is that dangerous? Sorry for all the dumb questions, I just want to be very very careful. thanks!

[Malenko]

opposite of the way you put it in?

before you go through the trouble of removing it, make sure you have everything plugged in right first.  Just curious, did you test the monitor BEFORE decasing and mounting?

[dcninja]

yes i tested. can the board shock me at all? that's what i'm concerned with... i could easily prod around and instead of using the remote to turn it on press the button the board, but I don't wanna get shocked fiddling wit hthe board when it's plugged in. I've got discharging the tube under the anode, but the board I'm clueless on.

[lilshawn]

if it worked before, you'd be hard pressed for it not to work out of the case.

check your anode clip to be sure its actually clipped in the bellybutton, not just suctioned to it.

also pull your neck card and check your pins...make sure none got bent. its easy enough to do.

next check all your little plugs and wires. sometimes the degauss coil and ground wires use a similar spaced connectors. it's super easy in these cases to accidentally ground out the AC by having the ground lead plugged to the degauss and blow the main fuse.

[dcninja]

i pushed in all my connectors good and tight, and i took off the anode cap again and pushed in it in really good... apparently it works now. took a sec of holding the powerbutton on the mobo... i arranged the sensor on the board when i mounted it through a hole so i can use the remote on it and not poke around in the back...like to power it on and stuff. i'm taking pics of it all. I'll have a bunch soon when i post them up for you guys to see. I'm so hype. my third cab and it's finally coming together. i just hope this crt lasts me a long long time as they are hard to find. this has component input as well

[lilshawn]

Yes, CRT's are becoming as rare as dodo's

if you can find them, scoop them up, it can't hurt to have some as backups or to sell later on.

[dcninja]

that's so true! they're just so big and hard to find... i wonder what their lifespan is?

as a side note - i have to reach in the back of the mahcine and press the button on the mainboard of the tv instead of using the remote because the power button doesn't work for some reason on the remote neither do the on screen settings, but the input works and channel change too... it was like this in the case too dunno why... anyway, any solution to help me press the lil button on the mainboard from outside the cab so I don't have to keep the back off (would like to close up the back for safety reasons).

[dcninja]

pics posted in new projects forum. thanks for everyone's help, as always this forum rocks!

[BAMBOO]

My very first arcade I used a 27" RCA tv, I put it in cased.  But for some stupid reason, I decased it after a few months.  Before, it was awesome and I never had an issue with it in the arcade, but after I decased it, it went out within a few days.  I put it in very carefully and didnt damage it in any way but it still went out.  My friend told me he believes the tv tube arced to the PCB and fried it because the casing wasnt there to protect it.

Just a personal experience here and I wouldnt decase it unless it was necessary.

[lilshawn]

My friend told me he believes the tv tube arced to the PCB and fried it because the casing wasnt there to protect it.

wut??

unless you had clearance issues and had to jam board in the cabinet next to eachother, i doubt this would be a problem.

in the "radion" series merit touchscreen machines... the computer motherboard board is mounted directly overtop of the tube with the high voltage lead connection to the tube within...probably 1/2 inch of the board. the ribbon cable the goes to the harddrive, in most cases, actually touches the tube. how those computers work with all that high frequency noise directly below is beyond me.

if a tv spontaneously blows up on you after you decase it, it's more likely youv'e bent a heatsink and stressed a component mount... or removed a ground path from someplace and caused a static buildup. (most likely the neckboard)

i decased a computer monitor once where the entire thing was shielded with aluminum.  after stripping it down to the bare boards it worked for a few days and then the colors dropped out...turned out, they heatsunk the color transistors to some small blocks of aluminium and had those sunk to the shield. when i removed the shielding, i effectively removed most of the cooling from the transistors.