[UPDATE] is this worth saving?

[thehammer12]

I was gonna try to fix this up and convert it to a Ninja Gaiden but it has a deep crack about 4-5 inches in the top corner,  near the marquee. It looks like someone was gonna try to convert it to a MAME because it has a couple of outlets screwed in the bottom.


Good deal for $20? Can it be saved?

[AAirhart]

For $20? Save it.

[IG-88]

Hells yes save it. $20? No brainer.

[thehammer12]

I believe its a black laminate, do you know if that comes off? Its all scratched up and I would like to replace it, maybe a heat gun?

Also here is another issue, after striping off the t-molding I noticed the cracked corner came off, is it possible to sand it down, drill and glue some wooden dowel rods in it, and clamp it down?

Any help would be great.

[IG-88]

Your not gonna get laminate off it was installed correctly. Just put new over it or fill the cracks and holes and put vinyl on it. Could even paint it too.

Got a pic of the damage?

[thehammer12]

Yeah sorry, I thought I attached the photos.  (Sorry for the huge pics haha)

[IG-88]

I wouldn't worry about sanding and doweling it. Just slap some good wood glue on it and clamp it back together. Make sure you get out any loose particles so it glues flush.  If there is a little crack left over after it dries you can fill it.

You'll probably have to fill and re-route the t-molding groove too. Use Rock Hard water putty. It's a dry powder that you mix water with. Inexpensive (when compared to Bondo) and is much easier to work with and clean up. Dries "rock hard" as the name implies and is easily sand-able in a couple hours. If you take your time and glue, fill and sand it well you'll never see that damage after you paint/laminate/vinyl the sides.

ps. Lie the cab on its side when you glue it up. No need to fight gravity...

[thehammer12]

I wouldn't worry about sanding and doweling it. Just slap some good wood glue on it and clamp it back together. Make sure you get out any loose particles so it glues flush.  If there is a little crack left over after it dries you can fill it.

You'll probably have to fill and re-route the t-molding groove too. Use Rock Hard water putty. It's a dry powder that you mix water with. Inexpensive (when compared to Bondo) and is much easier to work with and clean up. Dries "rock hard" as the name implies and is easily sand-able in a couple hours. If you take your time and glue, fill and sand it well you'll never see that damage after you paint/laminate/vinyl the sides.

ps. Lie the cab on its side when you glue it up. No need to fight gravity...

Sweet, I thought doweling would be good for extra strength but probably time consuming.

So I would glue and clamp the piece that broke off and fill the old t-molding grove with Rock Hard water putty?....Just wanna make sure Im understanding it correctly THEN re-router it...correct?

[IG-88]

Yes. That's how I would do it. You "MAY" be able to glue it up well enough that you won't need to fill the t-mold slot and re-route it. You'll have to make that decision after it is dry. It may go back together tight enough to hold the molding in place.

If you use a good carpenters wood glue liberally over the entire area I am betting that it will be more structurally sound than it was originally. That's all particle board is anyways, particles and glue more or less. Spread the glue over both pieces, like mayo on a sandwich, and clamp it up. Take a wet rag with you to clean up any glue that squeezes out and let set for 24 hrs. You'll be good to go.

You may also have to fill (with putty) the crack I circled after it is dried. Again depends on how well it goes back together.

Wonder how that broke like that in the first place? Almost looks like someone did it on purpose.

ps. Try clamping it up without glue first. Just to see if it will go back together "flush" if you get my meaning. You don't want it to be thicker than it was originally after the glue sets. Or you will have extra sanding to do 

[yotsuya]

For $20, hell yeah.

[thehammer12]

Yes. That's how I would do it. You "MAY" be able to glue it up well enough that you won't need to fill the t-mold slot and re-route it. You'll have to make that decision after it is dry. It may go back together tight enough to hold the molding in place.

If you use a good carpenters wood glue liberally over the entire area I am betting that it will be more structurally sound than it was originally. That's all particle board is anyways, particles and glue more or less. Spread the glue over both pieces, like mayo on a sandwich, and clamp it up. Take a wet rag with you to clean up any glue that squeezes out and let set for 24 hrs. You'll be good to go.

You may also have to fill (with putty) the crack I circled after it is dried. Again depends on how well it goes back together.

Wonder how that broke like that in the first place? Almost looks like someone did it on purpose.

ps. Try clamping it up without glue first. Just to see if it will go back together "flush" if you get my meaning. You don't want it to be thicker than it was originally after the glue sets. Or you will have extra sanding to do 

Its definitely not flush right now (without glue), so I figure I will have to sand it down anyways. yeah im not sure how it got broken since I bought it this way. maybe someone leaned it too much when moving it and hit a wall haha.

ill try it your way amd let you know how it goes, ill post pics this weekend when I work on it.

wish me luck.

[thehammer12]

For $20, hell yeah.

Haha, thanks man.

[ChadTower]

Easily saved with some basic furniture repair-fu.

That's a great MAME candidate right there.  Empty cab with a big wide CP.

[thehammer12]

Easily saved with some basic furniture repair-fu.

That's a great MAME candidate right there.  Empty cab with a big wide CP.

Whats furniture repair-fu?

Yeah everyone is telling me to convert this cab to MAME, but Im still not sure.

[ChadTower]

Whats furniture repair-fu?

Heh, around here, "fu" usually means "skill", as in "his kung fu is strong".

[thehammer12]

Whats furniture repair-fu?

Heh, around here, "fu" usually means "skill", as in "his kung fu is strong".

Wow, not gonna lie. Thats gonna be a tough one for me to remember hahaha.

[thehammer12]

Sorry for the delay, I finally got the corner repaired. I was surprised at how easy it was and how STRONG that rock hard water putty actually is.  To test it, I tipped the whole cabinet with one and back and forth by the repaired corner and it is SOLID.

Thanks to IG-88 for his detailed help, followed his instructions and now that corner is SMOOTH.

Mixed enough putty for all holes, chips, and broken corner.


Cleaned off broken area with air can....ttssssssssss


Filled the area with putty, it was not pretty and a bit messy.


Spread more putty all over the broken piece




I didnt have a C-clamp but this did the trick (took some re-adjusting) but did the job.


I did get a C-clamp later (not pictured, hands got dirty)...because I wanted to make sure it was EXTREMELY tight.


LUNCH TIME.......DOUBLE BACON CHEESE BURGER (homemade)



RESULTS:
So strong, again I can tilt the whole cabinet with one hand holding on to the broken corner. Its sanded with a 100 grit, you cant even feel any difference at all. I am very happy with the results.

[paigeoliver]

When I repair corners I often just recut the t-molding groove with a little saw instead of pulling out the router.

[thehammer12]

When I repair corners I often just recut the t-molding groove with a little saw instead of pulling out the router.

Yeah that would probably work as well.

[thehammer12]

Sanded, patched, more sanding and now 1st coat of Kilz oil based primer.