Author Topic: Working on Mini-Multi-Williams hybrid (Read 21110 times)

HagHore · « **Reply #40 on:** December 28, 2003, 11:31:19 pm »

No problemo, here is a topdown view

HagHore · « **Reply #41 on:** December 28, 2003, 11:35:24 pm »

And here is an angled view. The top of the iBall is approx 3/8" above the lexan. The lexan was beveled around the hole to allow a little more access to the trackball. Works quite well as I've already tested it many a time on missile command.

HagHore · « **Reply #42 on:** December 28, 2003, 11:45:13 pm »

Well, after playing a few rounds of Defender, Robotron, Ms Pacman, Donkey Kong, etc., I've come to the same conclusion as tbombaci...the leaf sticks from QuarterArcade suck. Luckily I had bought some of the Wico 8-Way Microswitch sticks with the black ball tops (p/n 15-371100) off ebay and had them handily available for replacement...and even more luckily they have the exact mounting holes of the cheapo Leafs. Unfortunately the black balltops ruin the "authentic" look but gaming is a WHOLE lot better with them. As time goes on I will try and acquire some true Wico Leafs to place in the panel...it's a bit tight inside the control panel assy but there is just enough room to perform this kind of maintenance.

HagHore · « **Reply #43 on:** January 03, 2004, 11:01:37 pm »

A few more pics, first shows the miniWilliams with the Wico 8-Way microswitch sticks with the black balltops installed instead of those cheapie chinese knockoff leaf switch POS. On the plus side, I managed to get a red balltop Wico leaf and a red balltop Wico microswitch off ebay, the leaf is a used one from an unknown control panel and is in decent shape, the microswitch is a NOS. So if I feel like messing with it then I'm going to change out the blacks for the reds.

HagHore · « **Reply #44 on:** January 03, 2004, 11:05:56 pm »

keywiz all wired up. Wiring isn't super neat or anything, but it is all out of the way for when the panel rotates and also for changing out of parts if it is necessary. I layed out and created the harness bundles on a 2D plan view of the panels printed from CATIA.

HagHore · « **Reply #45 on:** January 03, 2004, 11:09:17 pm »

optipac wired in. Bit of overkill for this project. If any more mini's are made with a spinner & trackball then they will be done the way we did it for the miniGeekenstein...USB trackball like the MacAlly iBall or Penny & Giles 2" and the USB mouse interface harness from Ultimarc for the spinner (basically just as cheap as buying a mouse to hack into and a WHOLE lot less of a hassle).

HagHore · « **Reply #46 on:** January 03, 2004, 11:24:18 pm »

miniGeekenstein wiring showing the two USB cables and the USB mouse interface. And yep, it's just hanging there, have it wire tied off to other harnesses to keep it from interfering with the spinner.

HagHore · « **Reply #47 on:** January 03, 2004, 11:25:10 pm »

miniGeekenstein keywiz

CIA_Guy · « **Reply #48 on:** January 19, 2004, 10:57:47 pm »

Love those CPs! Have you got the graphics posted somewhere? (The graphically challenged, like me, need to start somewhere!)

Nannuu · « **Reply #49 on:** January 21, 2004, 01:03:07 am »

Quote from: CIA_Guy on January 19, 2004, 10:57:47 pm

Love those CPs! Have you got the graphics posted somewhere? (The graphically challenged, like me, need to start somewhere!)

Not yet, I probably will post them once they are done and I have time to work on the website portion.

Nannuu · « **Reply #50 on:** January 21, 2004, 01:23:35 am »

Jeesh! Finally some progress! I have the speaker holes drilled for both the mW and mG as well as the DVD tray for the mG. I drilled the first pinball button hole to verify that it will actually fit in there and the panel will still rotate. It seems like it'll work like a charm

. Instead of using a pipe or a lazy suzan as an axis I decided to make one out of MDF on the side panels and mate that with a large diameter hole on the control panel. This way I am free to install pinball buttons on the side of the cabinet and still keep them within finger length of the top of the CP. Cool! I will still be adding teflon sheeting for smooth rotation action and a heavy duty felt around the axis to maintain 1/16" clearance between the CP and the side panels. The opposite side of course is the same except for a 3/4"x3/8" groove running underneath the axis for wiring.

dmsuchy · « **Reply #51 on:** January 23, 2004, 08:30:26 pm »

Completely AWESOME looking cabinets, very professional, can you please post a photo of the other axis and the grove?

Nannuu · « **Reply #52 on:** February 15, 2004, 12:56:20 pm »

Quote from: dmsuchy on January 23, 2004, 08:30:26 pm

Completely AWESOME looking cabinets, very professional, can you please post a photo of the other axis and the grove?

I have the groove done but I haven't assembled the other side of the cabinet yet as I am still finishing parts. It is just a 3/4"x1/2" groove running under the axis and out a few inches. Very simple really.

I decided to fix the MW panel by placing the dust guards under the artwork to make it look cooler. I found a nice cheap Dremel 45 chamfer bit to cut the holes around the joysticks. It looks SO much better now! I also did the same with the trackball cutout, just looks a little nicer now.

Nannuu · « **Reply #53 on:** February 15, 2004, 12:57:51 pm »

OH, so nice a clean looking, and all of the artwork is visible. Haghore also changed to a red and black joysticks.

RetroJames · « **Reply #54 on:** February 15, 2004, 07:55:16 pm »

So purdy! Nannu, do you have the router handle attachment for the Dremel or did you do it with the little stock plastic "table" they include with the tool? I take it you used the wood portion of the hole as your guide? That 45 looks awesome. I want to do that on the Omega for sure.

Nannuu · « **Reply #55 on:** February 15, 2004, 10:03:53 pm »

Quote from: 1hookedspacecadet on February 15, 2004, 07:55:16 pm

So purdy! Nannu, do you have the router handle attachment for the Dremel or did you do it with the little stock plastic "table" they include with the tool? I take it you used the wood portion of the hole as your guide? That 45 looks awesome. I want to do that on the Omega for sure.

Yep, I have the router attachment, and I used the wood holes underneath as the guide. After the cut I used the Dremel buffer bit with final stage buffing compound to shine it up, very lightly as it easily mars/melts the plastic. It really looks good, copied the idea from Pixelhuggers trackball. Originally I hand sanded around the trackball but it just wasn't as nice.

RetroJames · « **Reply #56 on:** February 15, 2004, 10:24:53 pm »

I thought so. I need to get that thing. The dremel would take care of most routing needs on a cabinet, but you are sunk without that table. The little plastic deal that comes with the base model is a joke.

dmsuchy · « **Reply #57 on:** February 18, 2004, 12:20:29 pm »

Did you have to under cut the wood of the cotrol panel so the joystick dust washer could travel free under the artwork? Put simple, howd ya do that??

Nannuu · « **Reply #58 on:** February 18, 2004, 05:27:04 pm »

Quote from: dmsuchy on February 18, 2004, 12:20:29 pm

Did you have to under cut the wood of the cotrol panel so the joystick dust washer could travel free under the artwork? Put simple, howd ya do that??

Take a look at:
http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=10;action=display;threadid=10496;start=0
Reply #22
You can see where Oscar had done the same by routing out a circular pattern around the joystick hole at equal depth as the dust cover is thick. Very easy to do and makes the panel look even better.

Nannuu · « **Reply #59 on:** March 17, 2004, 03:27:34 am »

Alright, a small update. I'm just so excited to actually get one of the cabinets together! The mw is painted and will be assembled next. For rotation I decided on Teflon sheeting around my axis to keep it tight, smooth and not damage the wood. It turned out better than I ever expected! Here is how I attached the teflon. Not shown in this picture, I added felt around the axis to keep the control panel from scraping the sides of the cabinet during rotation. I got the felt that is used for the bottom furniture feet. It is fairly industrial strength so I'm confident that is won't wear. And it just turns out that it is squishy enough to add a little drag to the panel. Now that the cab is together the panel doesn't move in any direction at all, whew, lucky me! I can't wait to get the front panel on and let it snap in for the final security.

Nannuu · « **Reply #60 on:** March 17, 2004, 03:29:53 am »

This is an inside view with the panel installed and the pinball button hooked up. Messy messy. When the panel rotates the outgoing wires barely move at all, they just twist some but don't interfere with the other wiring.

Nannuu · « **Reply #61 on:** March 17, 2004, 03:31:29 am »

This is the top of the cabinet with the administrative buttons recessed into the top.

Nannuu · « **Reply #62 on:** March 17, 2004, 03:35:54 am »

This cabinet is mostly assembled, just missing a few parts. Then I can start installing the computer. I'll start assembling the MW next to catch up the Geekenstein, probably won't post any more pics until I'm well past this point with both.

Nannuu · « **Reply #63 on:** April 11, 2004, 08:07:14 pm »

Decided to finish the mini Geek first to work out all of the bugs before finishing the mini Williams. It is coming along quite nice now. I still have tons of small things to do, like the marquee retainer, buttons graphics, locks, backdoor, computer etc. Haghore brought over a computer for testing yesterday and we were able to try some games out. Delivery day is going to be sad

Here is a pic to show the scale next to my APB cab.

RetroJames · « **Reply #64 on:** April 11, 2004, 11:19:06 pm »

Wow, I can't wait to see some more pics. That marquee looks great man!

Jeehemdee · « **Reply #65 on:** April 12, 2004, 02:33:37 pm »

Nannuu,

Where did you get the cp layout and marquee printed ? Seems to be a pretty good quality printing!

HagHore · « **Reply #66 on:** April 12, 2004, 03:55:33 pm »

He printed them on his inkjet printer, no special printing services used as we are trying to keep costs down. He did have to locate special sized paper though, he can fill you in on what sized paper was used as the marquee/cp are 18" wide (actually the cp is a little narrower than that to allow for rotation, 17-7/8)

goofy · « **Reply #67 on:** September 12, 2004, 12:29:16 am »

Nannu,

Your rotating control panel looks awesome. If possible, could you post some more explanations and pictures of how you accomplished the rotation and how you make it stop and be solid in each of the positions?

goofy · « **Reply #68 on:** September 12, 2004, 01:01:38 am »

One oher thing, how did you get the control panel in there? It looks like you'd have to put one side of the control panel in against one side of the cabinet and then put the other side of the cabinet onto the control panel. Is that correct? So, basically, you're control panel would have to be one of the first pieces assembled? or am I missing something?

Thanks for all the help.

Gunstar Hero · « **Reply #69 on:** September 14, 2004, 03:04:20 am »

OMG, the Tempest/MissileCommand/Asteroids panel makes me happy to be alive... except... that panes should say ATARI multigame, right? =)

Seriously, I love it, and staying with the theme is awesome. Many kudos!


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Author Topic: Working on Mini-Multi-Williams hybrid (Read 21110 times)

Jeehemdee