Small Bartop

[wessagussett]

Hi Guys,
I'm new to this and stumbled upon videos of great arcade builds on youtube. I never knew such a hobby existed!
I'm planning on making a bartop style arcade case, but maybe just a bit smaller than the typical bartop arcade.

I want to be able to easily carry it around so I plan on making it as light as possible without comprising its structural integrity.

My question is- have any of you used 1/2 inch plywood for the cab?
I have all the tools needed to cut, sand, and even a nice router table with the proper slot cutter for 1/2 inch T-molding.
I want to stay away from the MDF because of the weight, and since the heaviest component will be the 18" LCD, I'm not concerned about it falling apart.

Just curious if any of you have built one with 1/2" wood.

Any suggestions are much appreciated!

[PL1]

Welcome aboard, Wessagussett.

1/2" ply should be fine for the build you described.

If you're doing a 2 player control panel, you might consider adding a support in the middle to keep it from flexing during vigorous/heavy-handed play, but the rest of the cabinet should be good to go.

Post your plans and we'll beat them up offer positive feedback and warn of any pitfalls that may await.   


Scott

[wessagussett]

Welcome aboard, Wessagussett.

1/2" ply should be fine for the build you described.

If you're doing a 2 player control panel, you might consider adding a support in the middle to keep it from flexing during vigorous/heavy-handed play, but the rest of the cabinet should be good to go.

Post your plans and we'll beat them up offer positive feedback and warn of any pitfalls that may await.   


Scott

Thank you for your reply,
It's going to be a slow build because of work, kids etc, but I will definitely post pics and info on the build. I'm going to go with a single player control panel and was thinking of going with 3/4 for that.
I'm also just going to use the 60 in 1 jamma board, no track ball.
I'm debating whether or not to go all out and do a DK style bartop, with the blue. I see a lot of guys here have pretty much nailed the DK blue, I have a lowes up the street from my house, I just hope they understand the codes that have been posted here.

[jmike]

Welcome Wessagussett...
       1/2 inch should be fine. That' what I used. (I actually went with 1/2 MDF) and the control panel is very durable.

Here's a link to my build in case you're interested. Remember to post your questions, guys around here are very helpful.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130529.msg1336027.html#msg1336027


Good Luck
 

[wessagussett]

beautiful job jmike!
i just did a mock setup with the wiring and all the components. it's working fine, I was able to play some Donkey Kong and happy to see everything is in working order.

I do have another question-
Because I'm using 1/2 inch plywood, would I still have to carve underneath where the joystick is going? or is the stick long enough to overcome that half inch distance that will happen if I mount the plate (metal plate on top of joystick) on the bottom side of the control panel.

I hope I'm making sense

btw, thank you for the warm welcomes! 

[jmike]

No need to cut out the bottom with 1/2 inch (besides you could jeopardize the stability if you make it thinner than 1/2 inch)

What type of joysticks are you using? Make sure you have enough room for the base of the joystick/buttons and micro-switches. I know Happ joysticks have a larger base so you need a couple of inches for clearance under the control panel.

 

[wessagussett]

No need to cut out the bottom with 1/2 inch (besides you could jeopardize the stability if you make it thinner than 1/2 inch)

What type of joysticks are you using? Make sure you have enough room for the base of the joystick/buttons and micro-switches. I know Happ joysticks have a larger base so you need a couple of inches for clearance under the control panel.

 

I have a Zippy joystick (Seimitsu LS-Clone) it is 2.5" from the top of the ball to the mounting plate.
because Ive never done anything like this and just discovered this hobby last week, I purchased the 60 in 1 "kit" from jammaboards dot com for a little over 100 bucks. I mainley wanted to make sure that I could do this. I work with electricty (AC voltage) and have for 20 years now. I learned about DC voltage back in high school, but pretty much forgot how it works Lol!
So that's why I have that joystick, it came with the kit.

Do you think the joystick might be too small?

[jmike]

It should work fine. Besides you can always upgrade the joystick later. Check out this link, Randy sells zippy joysticks in both "Short" and "Long" styles.

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=371

It really is a matter of preference too. I think for the 60-in-1 board the short stick might be better. You may also want to switch your joystick to 4-way. (see the link above which will show you the options on the zippy joystick.)

 

[wessagussett]

thanks again jmike!
I did end up switching it to 4 way, I noticed I was having problems going up and down the ladders with the 8 way on DK.
 

[PL1]

I have a Zippy joystick (Seimitsu LS-Clone) it is 2.5" from the top of the ball to the mounting plate.
. . .
Do you think the joystick might be too small?

That's the Zippyy short shaft.

Pic shows Zippyy short with GGG threaded insert mounts on 3/4" MDF -- the ball will just barely clear the dust washer when you actuate the joystick.



You might consider using EMDB's shallow undermount method here.
-- Route a pocket on the bottom of the CP the size of the joystick mount plate

-- Add support blocks

-- Make a metal support plate to hold up the joystick and support blocks
-- Secure the metal support plate to the underside of the CP using 4 threaded inserts (he went a little overboard )



Scott

[wessagussett]

Thank You Scott!
Great job! I see how I can do it if it's too short (which it may be)