Heavy Victory Ikari Time Barrel Warrior Soldiers Road 'Cammo Edition'

[Maximus]

Its a good design but not needed. 2600s design pin hops all the way back through each header to the joystick just like mine. So hopefully there won't be an issue.

[Nephasth]

2600s design pin hops all the way back through each header to the joystick just like mine.

No it doesn't. That's why 2600's design has 25 traces between each header instead of 13.

In your current configuration (as seen in the attached diagram), it would be possible for the blue board to back feed signal voltage into the green board. In 2600's design, as diagrammed by Scott, thanks to the extra traces and how the diodes are installed into the circuits, it is impossible for one board to backfeed signal voltage into another.

[Maximus]

But wouldn't you have to have 6 seperate traces going back to each pin for 6 games then

[Nephasth]

No, just 2 for each pin. One of the two runs from the joystick header, all the way back towards the last board header next to (but not connected to) it's associated board header pin of each board header. From the board header pin, a trace runs to one leg of the diode, the other leg of the diode connects to this long trace, not the associated header pin on the neighboring board header.

Hold on, I'll draw it up for you.

[Nephasth]

Like this.

Yellow header being the joystick header, other headers being individual board headers. Ground on the bottom pins.

[Maximus]

Here's a shot of one if 2600s boards. It looks like they are in series. I see extra traces but the diodes do seem inline.



If I have indeed ---fouled up beyond all recognition--- this up again I may have ---my bottom--- saved by the fact that the new switcher is different in that it only powers one game board at a time so this may all become over elaborate engineering

[Nephasth]

If I have indeed ---fouled up beyond all recognition--- this up again I may have ---my bottom--- saved by the fact that the new switcher is different in that it only powers one game board at a time so this may all become over elaborate engineering

And if that's the case, there's no need for a diode board, you could have just make some splitter cables.

[Maximus]

Yep I could have but like I said the switch configuration changed half way through the project. I may as well use the parts I have including a half finished diode board. Good soldering practice if nothing else for my upcoming Amplifone build.

[Maximus]

Crimping is getting better. Here's a switcher-to-game board straight-thru cable with the proper blocks and pins on each end

[PL1]

I took this diagram down once I saw that Joel had already started soldering, but since Neph mentioned it, here is a side view that uses one wire (red) to daisy chain the diodes in parallel.

Solder the daisy chain to the diode lead as close to the board as possible.

Use wire strippers and slide the insulation to create gaps for soldering then push the insulation back to protect the traces from shorting.

The diagram shows a side view (pins 2, 4, 6, etc.) with the diodes leads bent so that they fit into the 3rd and 5th holes from the previous connector.

For the diodes on the next trace (pins 3, 5, 7, etc.), bend the leads so they fit into the 2nd and 5th holes from the previous connector.

Alternating diode length from one daisy chained line to the next gives you more room to work and decreases the chances of shorting.


Scott

EDIT: One minor adjustment to further reduce odds of shorting.

There should be one more space between each connector so the diodes for pin 2 go from 4th to the 6th hole and the diodes for pin 3 go from the 2nd to the 6th hole.

[Maximus]

Hopefully it will all be a moot point with single game power switcher.

Rebuilt the interior to better house the new 4 slot setup

Single slot-in stands for each game board and a shelf for the upcoming switcher and our notorious rotary harness.

[Maximus]

Replaced the graffiti scratched acrylic with nice crystal clear newness . 

[Maximus]

Vectorlabs Switcher is on the truck for delivery today so hopefully this evening I'll have some video of this working in multi-game mode.

[Maximus]

Switcher and daughter boards are here

[Maximus]

Well the switcher works beautifully but I continue to be burnt by my ---fudgesicle--- ups on the rotary board.  The collective resistance of the diodes is enough to kill the signal so sure enough I'm facing another round of soldering to fix this mess

[Maximus]

And this continues to be more mysterious. I bridged the sockets and every socket is working for heavy barrel with no shorts or errors. Ikari refuses to rotate on cables I know are good and we're working yesterday.  They are in the right way everything checks out.

The only difference is the switcher which has nothing to do with the rotary controls. The only thing I can think is that there's not enough juice making it through the switcher to the Ikari board which is making it act up.

This is the cursed cab from hell

[Maximus]

After more testing I'm 99 percent sure is the combination of the switcher and the Ikari board.  It's always been glitch and certainly doesn't like sharing it's cab with anything else.  I may have to consider looking for a native Jamma version as this converted board just doesn't seem to want to play nicely with others.

[Nephasth]

Its a good design but not needed.

Well the switcher works beautifully but I continue to be burnt by my ---fudgesicle--- ups on the rotary board.  The collective resistance of the diodes is enough to kill the signal so sure enough I'm facing another round of soldering to fix this mess

How's that saying go? "You can lead a horse to water..."

[Maximus]

How's that saying go? "You can lead a horse to water..."

You're like my wife with directions. Telling me turn after we drive past the junction.

[Nephasth]

I warned you to check your circuitry long before you did all that soldering. Hell, Scott even drew you a picture, two in fact. Sound advice falls on deaf ears.

[Maximus]

Oh well.

Good news is the Ikari Warriors is working in the switch I had the harnesses reversed that were plugged into the boards.

Bad news is that even with only one board powered on the basic splitter still won't work when plugged into more than one board.  So I do have to go back and do this again with the proper return traces.

[Maximus]

Hey Scott. Assuming I only have single layer perfboard to work with. Is this the way I should set up the circuit?

[PL1]

Hell, Scott even drew you a picture, two in fact.

Umm, actually three -- with several revisions and clarifications, but who's counting.   

You're like my wife with directions. Telling me turn after we drive past the junction.

We're here to help, but you're driving 100 MPH through unfamiliar twisty-turny streets in a neighborhood you don't know.

By the time we read what you're trying to do and type up an answer, you're already past the turn.

Giving us more lead time will get you better results.

Remember the sayings, "Fast is slow.  Slow is quick." and


Stand by for several pics to clarify my diagram from this post. (Spotted your latest question whiile previewing.)

*Heading off to bend diodes, strip wires, and take pics.


Scott

[Maximus]

Great thanks Scott.

Yep you are right I do fly through things at speed and often make mistakes. But that's okay it's a discovery process and if I fall down then great, I learn why. Sometimes I misunderstand input when I think I do understand it and then of course things can go wrong too. At the end of the day I enjoy the  creative challenges and the lessons learned either from others or from mistakes. I appreciate that you take the time and exhibit such patience with high speed maniacs like myself.

What I cannot abide is those that will take pleasure from mocking others for their mistakes, lack of knowledge or understanding. Spend time pointing out errors and wearing their told-you-so T_shirts with smug pride. Thankfully we have an ignore function in this forum.

[Nephasth]

You ask for the advice. You get the advice. You ignore the advice. You're bewildered when ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- doesn't work.

[yotsuya]

You ask for the advice. You get the advice. You ignore the advice. You're bewildered when ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- doesn't work.

Posted just in case the ignore funtion was on.

To be fair, Neph has offered plenty of good advice. Just as you seem fustrated by his apparent "mocking" of your mistakes, I can tell he's equally exasperated by your "damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead" approach to things. There's room for common ground. Make peace, you two.

[Vigo]

You ask for the advice. You get the advice. You ignore the advice. You're bewildered when ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- doesn't work.

Posted just in case the ignore funtion was on.

To be fair, Neph has offered plenty of good advice. Just as you seem fustrated by his apparent "mocking" of your mistakes, I can tell he's equally exasperated by your "damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead" approach to things. There's room for common ground. Make peace, you two.

  

[opt2not]

Thankfully we have an ignore function in this forum.

We do...?
Oh snap, we do!  All this time there was an ignore list feature right under my nose.  But IMO, you shouldn't ignore Neph, even as abrasive as he is, he gives good sound advice...  you just got to get passed that first layer of rot, the meat underneath is still good.

[PL1]

OK, back on topic . . .

This circuit is for plain perfboard (shown) or single-pad PCBs -- boards with multi-pad traces will not work unless you cut the traces.

The diagram is a side view that uses one wire (red) to daisy chain the diodes in parallel.



Solder the daisy chain to the diode lead as close to the board as possible. (like the left side wire)



Use wire strippers and slide the insulation to create gaps for soldering then push the insulation back to protect the traces from shorting.



The diagram shows a side view (pins 2, 4, 6, etc.) with the diodes leads bent so that they fit into the 3rd and 5th holes from the previous connector.

For the diodes on the next trace (pins 3, 5, 7, etc.), bend the leads so they fit into the 2nd and 5th holes from the previous connector.

You may need more space between connectors/solder points so the diodes for pin 2 go from 5th to the 7th hole and the diodes for pin 3 go from the 3rd to the 7th hole. (one more space between connectors than in the picture, two more than the diagram)

Alternating diode length from one daisy chained line to the next gives you more room to work and decreases the chances of shorting.



Top view shows diodes installed for pins 2 and 3.


Scott

[Nephasth]

But IMO, you shouldn't ignore Neph, even as abrasive as he is, he gives good sound advice...  you just got to get passed that first layer of rot, the meat underneath is still good.

OMG, I'm turning into a PBJ!

[Vigo]

OMG, I'm turning into a PBJ!

It had to be one of us. Better you than me. 

[Maximus]

Thanks Scott, the photos help, I don't know which part of my brain refuses to let me understand basics like this, but following these pictures is a big help. I have new diodes and perfboard in the mail, thankfully these parts cost pennies. What I lack in comprehension I make up for in pure hard headed stubborn determination.

VIGO - I've sent you twelvty billion PMs, why you no reply?

[TopJimmyCooks]

. . . I have new diodes and perfboard in the mail, thankfully these parts cost pennies. . . .

Pennies plus 5-7$ in shipping per order.  ouchy!.  whenever I have to order from digi key or mouser I always buy double what I need of the small stuff.   You might consider triple ordering m'friend.

[Maximus]

You might consider triple ordering m'friend.

Aint that the truth 

[Vigo]

VIGO - I've sent you twelvty billion PMs, why you no reply?

Wha - Serious? I haven't gotten anything lately.   

You must work so fast, you are even faster than your PMs.

[Maximus]

You ask for the advice. You get the advice. You ignore the advice. You're bewildered when ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- doesn't work.

Posted just in case the ignore funtion was on.

To be fair, Neph has offered plenty of good advice. Just as you seem fustrated by his apparent "mocking" of your mistakes, I can tell he's equally exasperated by your "damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead" approach to things. There's room for common ground. Make peace, you two.

Yot, to be clear I never ignore people's advice. I may misunderstand it, jump to conclusions, miss it altogether or consider it and choose to go another way, or find it so vague that I can't follow it but I am never so disrespectful to simply ignore info/advice someone has taken the effort to impart.

[yotsuya]

You ask for the advice. You get the advice. You ignore the advice. You're bewildered when ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- doesn't work.

Posted just in case the ignore funtion was on.

To be fair, Neph has offered plenty of good advice. Just as you seem fustrated by his apparent "mocking" of your mistakes, I can tell he's equally exasperated by your "damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead" approach to things. There's room for common ground. Make peace, you two.

Yot, to be clear I never ignore people's advice. I may misunderstand it, jump to conclusions, miss it altogether or consider it and choose to go another way, or find it so vague that I can't follow it but I am never so disrespectful to simply ignore info/advice someone has taken the effort to impart.

 

Now you and Neph hug it out, bitches*






*

[Maximus]

Lol I don't think either of us have/need/want any real reason to hug it out. Moving along.

[Nephasth]

I am never so disrespectful to simply ignore info/advice someone has taken the effort to impart.

Thankfully we have an ignore function in this forum.

[Maximus]

Well Scott.  It isn't going to win any beauty contests but it works beautifully. Tested last night with both games plugged into joystick 1 on ports 2 and 4.

Thanks so much for the photos and diagrams they helped my tiny brain finally get it.