Arcade In A Suitcase

[CpCaveman]

Right I`m running out of steam finishing my cab, I think the only thing that`ll get me going is knowing there is a new project to follow, so I dug out my old xp laptop which I`ve tested and can run mame well and is just gathering dust,  I could build another Cab/table but i`d be sleepwalking doing that, everyones doing bartops as well, so for something different (well havent seen its like mentioned in what little I`ve seen) and that has a bit of cerebral action involved, I was thinking of making an arcade in a suitcase ( see pic for type of case )

1. How hard is it to remove a laptop screen from the laptop and link it in a new position (its an old 15" samsung one,can provide details if anyones interested) ? I would like ANY info before i just rip it apart and see for myself.(and probably regret it )
2. Is there such a thing as quick release joystick handles / unscrewable ones? as I`ve either got to make a mech that will raise/lower the control panel into the case (which means the case will have to be deeper) or make my own joystick arms/handles

was just thinking that, like my cab in a few years it`ll just sit there, but if its in a case it can "be put out of the way" but still ready for action and wont need to be got rid of because we need the space:), thoughts?

[Nephasth]

Not the same, but similar. Might give you some ideas to work with: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,84113.0.html

[sandheaver]

The connection to a laptop screen is usually LVDS, which is not a common connector in PC-land, but is a standard signalling method.  You'll also need to power the backlight, which is pretty straightforward.  You'll need longer cables for both of those.

You'll probably also need to fabricate a bracket to actually mount the screen.  I can't recall any laptop I've disassembled having a mounted screen; they were all held in place by the monitor half of the case, not screwed to the case, but held in place when the case itself was screwed together.  It was a pressure fit, inside.  I guess it would depend on the make & model; some probably do screw it down.

If you get a case with a deep enough lid, you won't have to worry about it.  I don't know of any joysticks that aren't meant for, or designed to look and act like they were, designed for use in public places.  Accordingly, none I've ever seen have easily removable sticks.  An easier method than retracting would be rotating down and away from or toward the latches.  Those mechanisms are tricky.  It would be even easier if you had a mounted panel, but, when opened, placed controls INTO the panels and optionally fastened them down.  Kind of like how X-Arcade joysticks (ugh) sit inside X-Arcade cabinets (ugh).  Removable, but sturdy when in put in place.

[sandheaver]

Not the same, but similar. Might give you some ideas to work with: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,84113.0.html

The spinner on that thing makes me nervous.  Seems like it would touch the screen when folded.

It is impossible for me to think much of cabinets that try to do everything.  Joystick, six buttons, spinner and a trackball?  Seriously?  I would make separate cabs, or at least separate control panels.  You can't do each method justice if you include them all in the same panel.

[jpS14]

Hey caveman I have a similar project going on. I haven't announced it yet because i've been pretty busy with a newborn. For the joystick I'm using one of these  http://www.focusattack.com/jlf-link/. I hope that helps you out. I'll be posting my project soon and hopefully it will help stay motivated to keep working on it.

[CoryBee]

I love this idea. If you use the aluminum case in your picture, the one on the bottom left, you should be able to fit most de-cased laptops. I have a case just like it and any of the laptops I have used in my bartops (over 15 now) would fit nicely. Make a frame for the thing to fit in and a piece of acrylic to cover it all up would look nice.

For the CP to be comfortable and not break the screen when it closes is the real challenge. I was thinking of using some tackle box hinges to achieve this result. I pulls out an locks into place.

The Hinges and example tackle boxs



If you were skilled enough I am sure you could make the thing come out and lock into place as you opened it up.

Good luck because I want to make this now and will be using this thread if all goes well.

 

[CpCaveman]

yeah as you say its similar, but the last post was 4 years ago and he hasnt posted the result guessing its the collision problem we can all see happened or he finished it and abandoned the forum post, looked good though, wish him luck anyhoo , but I dont want to advertise whats in the case. makes it all the more fun when it gets brought out.
 No idea what LVDS is  , was just wondering if i could solder connections from where they are to where theyre going without it fapping the actual computer bit up , the screen with laptop casing is 18mm looking for a 1" lid anyhow (seems standard on these cases) so i can put speakers either side so i`d be making a bezel mount in the lid no matter what, there`s bolt fixings either side,  see pics, its what the actual connection is i`m not sure of, gonna have to rip the box open to do the power switch anyway, and the less that can go wrong the better
and jps14 thats exactly the thing i`m looking for, was going to put a storage area under the control panel for the power supply and joystick handles

plan was to end up with something you just opened, plugged a power cord into, screwed the joystick handles in, powered up and played

P.S. the laptop isnt pink its the downlighting LEDs from my what i`m now calling my latest unfinished box of bollocks

[CpCaveman]

i looked into the cantilever approach , had a few idea`s but i kinda like the look of the movie type nuclear bomb controller (somebody must know what i mean when i say it like that ) plug it in, open it up, screw in the joysticks, blow stuff up, i mean win at space invaders so i`m aiming to keep both surfaces flush, with a hinged control panel for storage/access to the keyboard.

[Louis Tully]

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[CpCaveman]

yeah thats thats another similar, never said it was an original idea   and thanks if not for any help but for pointing out its not nonetheless but think HALF the size with the screen in the 90degree lid that doesnt have to be put aside, or big enough to put legs on and call it a coffee table and thats what I`m aiming to build without the radioactive stickers (going through customs would be fun though if you like that sort of thing  ) , now we all know where i`m heading, can i just solder cables to move the damn screen or does it have to be "special" cable?

[CoryBee]

can i just solder cables to move the damn screen or does it have to be "special" cable?

You should be able to solder a ribbon cable onto the custom LCD connector, they are rather thin though & lots of them....

I'd imagine you cut both ends of the screen cable and solder directly to those, they are about 5 -10 monies to get on ebay for that model so it is worth a try.

[CpCaveman]

ok final questions to clarify (thanks for the help all)

1. as long as i connect the ribbon (is it a ribbon?) connections from where they are to where theyre going to doesnt matter what type the cable is
2. how many is lots roughly? more than 10?

your answers are not legally binding, and if I mess it up its going in the bin anyhow

[Louis Tully]

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[CoryBee]

I think you could call this a ribbon cable...but I meant to extend to the length needed you could use a hard drive ribbon cable in between the two connectors of the laptop screen



Without the model number I can't be sure but your laptop screen will have a connector like these (I have many screens and connectors so I chose a samsung model)

Back of the LCD screen



LCD Connector (to screen)



LCD Connector (to motherboard)

[CoryBee]

Not pretty, but you get the idea.



You will have to extend the two wires from the "inverter board" as well, but that is a piece of cake obviously.



Hope any of this helped!

[CpCaveman]

Thats great, was picturing that flat copper stuff, was a nightmare to solder with my led`s but thats another story (yeah i know it still could be, hope not though) i have some of that stuff in some old computers I can rip apart, so as long as theyre linked right it`ll be good can always hide the mess behind the bezel , thanks corybee you`re a gent sir, appreciate the help and the pics 


and louise

Wasn't knocking your idea, chief.  It just reminded me of this and I thought it might give you some cool ideas for your build. Lots of folks, myself included, learn from others. 

Christ...Whatever you end up doing, have fun or something.

Sorry little wigwam, I put smilies and thankyou`s everywhere to show what i thought was jokey, and thanked you for your input, and didnt say you were knocking my idea at all, just wasnt helping with the questions i actually asked (you seem to be overly sensitive, did someone hurt you in a past forum? (THAT WAS ANOTHER JOKE BTW <-- see smilies-->  )

Mohammed.... Whatever you end up doing realise that people over 40 dont type stuff to be nasty, we have a sense of humour too! who`d have thought it eh? we leave nasty to the kidlings in the magical twitbooky land of i`m past caring may budda bless you

[Louis Tully]

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[CoryBee]

Yea, as long as you extend those wires some how you should be golden. wont need to solder to the connectors themselves, just the wires on them, all depends on your laptop's LCD panel connector. But I bet that it is the exact same connector as I have taken apart an almost identical laptop as you pictured.

Either way, start de-casing that bad boy so I can see how you manage! 

[epicfatigue]

If you have an EMC gun you can foil the plastic connector on motherboard and then heat the back of it and slide out the connector,
Once off you can then get a small copper board draw trace lines to a VGA connector and dip it into etching solution ($5) then drill the holes for everything.

Would look very clean that way, or are you using the Laptop body and just wanting to extend the screen ?

[a1pharm]

Look at this idea (pic below), it enables you to avoid raising/lowering the joysticks, while providing you an easy way to construct what you want.  Keep in mind, you'll probably want a pneumatic arm or toy chest hinge to keep the monitor upright.