Problems with my WG U5000!

[luchexxx]

Hi! How are you? Iīm from Argentina and Iīm a new user in this forum. I got registered because Iīve read a couple of threads about monitors and they were really helpful! The problem I am having is that my U5000 isntīs starting! I have a Cruisīn World Twin Cab and the Player 1 monitor doesnīt turn on. Iīve already compared with a tester both HOTīs, (in the working and in the not-working monitor) and they behave the same. Well, thatīs all! I hope you can help me! =) Iīm not a genius in electronics, but I can follow (easy) instructions! Thanks for reading and hope someone answers.

[grantspain]

wells gardner have a good fault finding guide on their website for u5000

[luchexxx]

Hi! Thank you for answering! Iīll check that!

[ed12]

hi
yes by all means go to the w-g site and d/l there guide
but i will tell u that testing a hot in circuit will not really tell u any thing
if the unit is not firing up
chk the b+,it is common for the fet in the smps to pack it up,from there u5000 all need cap kit's,as a rule remove horz output transistor,and place a 100watt bulb c-e
this will chk the hot transformer,we have a thread in monitor repair on that exact thing,this will help u a ton
good luck

ed

[luchexxx]

Hi! Thanks for answering!!! How can I check the B+ youīre telling me to check? The problem is that here, in Argentina, we have 220V electricity, and 220v lamps, is that alright? Iīve finally downloaded the "U5000 Troubleshooting Guide". The problem Iīm having is that thereīs no power in the CRT. At least, in the place where the Neck Board "joins" the neck, it isnīt red and hot, as it was before when there was image in the monitor. I think power is not reaching that place. The fuse isnīt blowed and there isnīt a ticking noise neither. So, I donīt know what to check first. Besides this, I donīt know if I have to desolder all those componente before testing them. Iīm a bit ---uvula--- in electronics! =S

[ed12]

hi
the tube will have 6.3 or greater to 2 pin's
1=return..to chassic
1=output to i think pin3 or 6 chk the schmeatic
the heater will look like a squillely line with 2 ramp's
u place your meter across them
the 220volt means nothing as it is a smp's style monitior
there is a heater resistor in line with 1 of the pin's 1ohm as a rule
again chk the schmeatic
no hearter glow will give u the exact problem u are talking about
no ticking is a good sign
the schmeatic give's u ref-point's to test everything
ie tp101/tp102/tp103 etc etc

ed

[luchexxx]

Hi Ed! I really appreciate your help but Iīm not understanding anything! =S Not olny Iīm a totally-newby at electronics, but also sometimes you use abbreviations I donīt understand. I can write in English but remember Iīm from Argentina and my local language is Spanish! Do you mean that the tube is fed with 6.3V through 2 pins? Where are those pins? Do you reffer to the several pins which are on the neck and connect to the Neck Board? "the heater will look like a squillely line with 2 ramp's" I tried to undertand this sentence but I couldnīt at all. This sentence is also not clear for me: "there is a heater resistor in line with 1 of the pin's 1ohm as a rule". I get the idea that thereīs a heater resistor somewhere, but thatīs all. The schematic is chinese for me and I donīt know what values should show every test-point and what test-points should I test. Iīll upload a picture of my chassis, perhaps itīs easy if you can "spot" me what should I check! =) Thanks again for your pattience, cheers!!!

[ed12]

hi
ok i understand
i have a ton of spanish bud's
to clear it up
u c the big thick red wire ?? comming off of the black thing ?
these are called the flyback and anode lead >high-voltage<
around that area u will find a small resister about 1/4" long
brown-black-black should = 1 ohm
the 2 pin's i refer to on the neck board
should be just off to the right of your 2nd pix
let me chk the u5000 manual for u
and i will gladly walk u through it

ed

[ed12]

hi
here
> Layton
Guru
Full Member

 Offline
 Posts: 6103
Technician

 Re: wells gardner u5000
Ŧ Reply #2 on: December 22, 2005, 06:21:42 pm ŧQuoteThis trouble-plagued chassis has three factory issued repair/upgrade kits you need to install to repair them.

It is strongly advised to buy & install all three of the following kits:

# S01J0000-000F Service Kit, U-5000 Horizontal Output Transistor Update

# S05F0000-000F Service Kit, U-5000 Vertical Deflection Update

# S04E0000-000F Service Kit, U-5000 & U-2000 Power Supply Update

Order the above directly from the parts department at Wells-Gardner in Illinois (phone 1-800-336-6630 or 708-290-2100) at link here >www.wellsgardner.com<
<
that is from ken layton
u can as i posted find him on our monitor repair fourm
i will study the schematic
and get back to u
follow his advice to the t

ed

[ed12]

hi
r823 to chassic ground
is where u will find your heater ac voltage 6.3ac or a tad higher
it is a 2.2 ohm 2 watt resistor
start there

ed

[luchexxx]

Hi Ed! Great, now Iīm understanding! (Thanks again for your pattience!) Yes, I know what the Flyback is because Iīve checked the "Monitor Terminology" in the Wells-Gardner web. And as it was the first time I take a chassis out, Iīve seen A LOT of Youtube videos to "remove" the power on the CRT and in the flyback! Alright, itīs a nice advice: Iīll order those kits!
Iīve tested that resistor with the tester in "200" scale and it says: "03.1", is that ok? I test the resistor soldered into the board. How does the "heater" look? I tried to google it, but I only get "heaters" images (for the cold!)

[ed12]

hi
ya 3.1 is way below 6.3
chk yer cap's
u have 1 or 2 going bad
do this before u play with chasic any more
get the cap kit
as a rule when they fail...WHICH THEY WILL...
u will tear out other part's..ie the hot and the fet i spoke of
so just do the kit's in short
ken is a perty smart person
trust his advice

ed

[luchexxx]

Oh, I see, so that resistor (R823) is the heater itself??? That measure means that I have a bad cap? Which caps should I check? All of them or only the ones located in the PS area? The tester shows 3.1 with the chassis unplugged. Do I have to test that resistor with the machine plugged-in and turned on? Can I test the Capīs with the tester or do I need another tool? Thanks again for being so kind. I have also 4 pinballs: Indiana Jones, Addams Family, Creature From the Black Lagoon and Twilight Zone; if you need a scan of a plastic or anything, Iīll be glad to help you. PS: Iīve already written to WG, Iīm waiting for their answer!

[luchexxx]

Hi! Any clue? Thanks!!! =)

[Karetaker]

It is just a waste of time to test the caps. Just order a cap kit and replace them. You will be replacing the electrolytic caps. You can get a cap kit cheap here:

 http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=391

What I do is mark the top of all of them with a magic marker. That way you won't get confused as to which ones you changed. But before you do any of that you might want to give the board a good cleaning. I spray them with windex and take a soft paint brush an go over it. Then I rinse it off with the hose. Then I blow them dry with an air compressor. If you don't have an air compressor you can blow them off a bit with canned air and just let it dry completely over night.

[luchexxx]

Hi Karetaker! Thanks for your answer! I thought nobody else will reply, I was losing hope! Ok, I'll do that. Do you think that will solve the problem? The main problem is that power doesn't reach the tube (the screen is out and the neck of the tube doesn't get red/hot). I ask you this only because I'm a 100% newby at electronics. Thanks a lot!