wiring up a 60 in 1 multiboard?

[jspicher]

Howdy guys,

I got myself a few items from jamma boards to built a 60 in 1 multi-board cabinet but l have a few questions as to how l'd wire and power this thing.

Can anyone give me a little tutorial, maybe even video on what all l'd need and how l'd go about hooking this thing up?

Here's what l bought:
1x 60 in 1 board
1x Switching Power Supply (model WEI-YA)
1x Jamma Harness

So here are my questions:

1.) How do l run power to the board? -- Would it be possible to power it with a regular PC power supply - if so what kind would l look for?
2.) What is the proper way to connect the jamma harness to the board? It could go on either way, so l'm not sure what is the top, and what is the bottom.
3.) Once the jamma harness is connected, how do l know which wire is for which button?

[lilshawn]

most of those xx-in-1 boards have a computer molex plug. so either jump an atx to power it or hack off a plug and wire it up to the weiya supply

or power it through the JAMMA

all you need is +5 +12 and ground.

your xx-in-1 board manual will show you which wires are what. JAMMA wires are all he same.

[jspicher]

jump an atx to power it

How do l do that?

[Nephasth]

jump an atx to power it

How do l do that?

or power it through the JAMMA

^^ Just do this.

[jspicher]

jump an atx to power it

How do l do that?

or power it through the JAMMA

^^ Just do this.

Can someone give me a little more detail on how l would do that though? I can't find any tutorials or videos that would outline it for someone who's never done something like this before.

[Nephasth]

Are you comfortable with wiring/electrical?

[CheffoJeffo]

So, I am guessing that you don't have an existing JAMMA cabinet (if you do, then it is a cakewalk, except for having to possibly wire a couple of buttons).

First, check out what JAMMA is (first two links on that page are important for you).

Do not make a mistake on the harness connection if you are running power through the harness (but there should be some labelling on the harness to make sure that you don't screw up). If in doubt, post a picture of the harness are we should be able to tell you based on some key wire colours and grouping (grounds, +5, +12).

 

[jspicher]

Are you comfortable with wiring/electrical?

Yes, l'm trying to learn how to hook one of these up.

[jspicher]

So, I am guessing that you don't have an existing JAMMA cabinet (if you do, then it is a cakewalk, except for having to possibly wire a couple of buttons).

First, check out what JAMMA is (first two links on that page are important for you).

Do not make a mistake on the harness connection if you are running power through the harness (but there should be some labelling on the harness to make sure that you don't screw up). If in doubt, post a picture of the harness are we should be able to tell you based on some key wire colours and grouping (grounds, +5, +12).

 

Thanks, no existing cabinet l'm working off of here; doing it from scratch.

[Nephasth]

Are you comfortable with wiring/electrical?

Yes, l'm trying to learn how to hook one of these up.

Then this pinout should help you out quite a bit.


Pins 1-6, 27, 28, A-F, e, and f get wired to your switching power supply appropriately. Then your 60-in-1 will be powered through your JAMMA harness.

[jspicher]

[....]

Thanks! Looks simple enough.
So my next question is how would l turn the board on/off in this scenario?

[Nephasth]

Unplug your power supply, or wire a switch in your power cord…

[jspicher]

Unplug your power supply, or wire a switch in your power cord…

Nephasth, l can't thank you enough man; l wired her up to the PS and we've got picture!

Just 2 more question, on the back of my switching power supply there are 2 slots labeled "FG" and "MTR", do l just ignore those, what are they for?

- and last question, on my power supply there is an LCD screen with a readout and a knob; should l dial that down to 5.0?

[Nephasth]

Just 2 more question, on the back of my switching power supply there are 2 slots labeled "FG" and "MTR", do l just ignore those, what are they for?

EDIT: FG would be your earth ground. The bottom prong on your outlet is earth ground, in the cord it's typically a green wire. You definitely want to hook that up to your power supply. MTR... beats me.

- and last question, on my power supply there is an LCD screen with a readout and a knob; should l dial that down to 5.0?

That's your 5V adjust pot. Some boards are picky about their 5V. My new (to me) Raiden II board will boot, but lock up if the voltage is above 4.7V. My Medalist Dart Star Spectrum board will keep rebooting if the voltage is below 5.4V. If your 60-in-1 is running fine as is, I'd leave it be.


SEE EDIT ABOVE.

[jspicher]

Just 2 more question, on the back of my switching power supply there are 2 slots labeled "FG" and "MTR", do l just ignore those, what are they for?

EDIT: FG would be your earth ground. The bottom prong on your outlet is earth ground, in the cord it's typically a green wire. You definitely want to hook that up to your power supply. MTR... beats me.

Here's a pic of what l've got:

The power supply has 2 spots for AC, l used them both (should l not have?). The cable that came with the power supply doesn't have a green wire, both a black and look identical. Should one go in AC and one go in FG, if so which one should go to which, does it matter? Or both in the two sepearte AC's like l've got it?

- and last question, on my power supply there is an LCD screen with a readout and a knob; should l dial that down to 5.0?

That's your 5V adjust pot. Some boards are picky about their 5V. My new (to me) Raiden II board will boot, but lock up if the voltage is above 4.7V. My Medalist Dart Star Spectrum board will keep rebooting if the voltage is below 5.4V. If your 60-in-1 is running fine as is, I'd leave it be.

SEE EDIT ABOVE.

Right on, thanks. Also another question that popped up (l think this is my last) to l can put the board into test mode using the on PCB dip switches, and the manual says to click "TEST SW" to advance to the onscreen dip switch settings (disable certain games, adjust prices etc)... what is the TEST SW, is it just player 1 button?

Thanks again for your help, l couldn't have don't this w/out your help.

[CheffoJeffo]

TEST SW is pin 15 on JAMMA (which is shown as unused in Neph's diagram.

[Nephasth]

Not my diagram (see the watermark). His inquiry was regarding power, and that pinout was sufficient to answer his question. With anything in the quest for knowledge, it's best to consult multiple sources.

[lilshawn]

Just 2 more question, on the back of my switching power supply there are 2 slots labeled "FG" and "MTR", do l just ignore those, what are they for?

EDIT: FG would be your earth ground. The bottom prong on your outlet is earth ground, in the cord it's typically a green wire. You definitely want to hook that up to your power supply. MTR... beats me.

Here's a pic of what l've got:

The power supply has 2 spots for AC, l used them both (should l not have?). The cable that came with the power supply doesn't have a green wire, both a black and look identical. Should one go in AC and one go in FG, if so which one should go to which, does it matter? Or both in the two sepearte AC's like l've got it?

- and last question, on my power supply there is an LCD screen with a readout and a knob; should l dial that down to 5.0?

That's your 5V adjust pot. Some boards are picky about their 5V. My new (to me) Raiden II board will boot, but lock up if the voltage is above 4.7V. My Medalist Dart Star Spectrum board will keep rebooting if the voltage is below 5.4V. If your 60-in-1 is running fine as is, I'd leave it be.

SEE EDIT ABOVE.

Right on, thanks. Also another question that popped up (l think this is my last) to l can put the board into test mode using the on PCB dip switches, and the manual says to click "TEST SW" to advance to the onscreen dip switch settings (disable certain games, adjust prices etc)... what is the TEST SW, is it just player 1 button?

Thanks again for your help, l couldn't have don't this w/out your help.

best guess i can wager with the MTR lead is you tap whatever voltage you need to monitor on your meter to this terminal. i cant read your pic but it says something about the voltage range... but if it works without it...leave it be. no sense fixing what isn't broken.

[jspicher]

I'm guessing that the reason l only have two cords coming off of my power cable is because it's a 2 prong cord... so a 3 prong cable would have the FG (earth ground) cable, yes?

[Nephasth]

I'm guessing that the reason l only have two cords coming off of my power cable is because it's a 2 prong cord... so a 3 prong cable would have the FG (earth ground) cable, yes?

Yep, and I would recommend using a 3 prong plug/cord. And you asked about it earlier, but keep your AC wires on the two seperate AC terminals, otherwise you'll create a short and pop a circuit breaker at best.

[jspicher]

I'm guessing that the reason l only have two cords coming off of my power cable is because it's a 2 prong cord... so a 3 prong cable would have the FG (earth ground) cable, yes?

Yep, and I would recommend using a 3 prong plug/cord. And you asked about it earlier, but keep your AC wires on the two seperate AC terminals, otherwise you'll create a short and pop a circuit breaker at best.

Okay great, l'm ready to roll then thanks man. Can you tell me what having a 3 prong cord would do for me?

[Nephasth]

It provides a safe path to ground in the event of a short, i.e. through that wire instead of your body... You also have to make sure metal components of your cab are earth grounded as well; control panel (if metal), monitor frame, coin door. Just run a wire to a screw/bolt on of those components to your earth ground.

[lilshawn]

having the frame of the monitor properly grounded will also help cut down on the static build up. keep your fingers from getting zapped and keep the dust from accumulating at breakneck speeds.