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Author Topic: G07-FBO 13" Power Loss after playing with Mylar Caps to Vary Width  (Read 2208 times)

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mailman-zero

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    • Walking Towel
I am restoring a Centipede cocktail and had everything finally working except that the monitor width seemed too small leaving an inch from the bezel on the top and bottom (which is a lot when the monitor is so small). I couldn't get the width coil to budge, so I replaced it, but even though the new one would move, it didn't seem to affect the image at all. This led me to try changing out C515 with lower capacitance. The original was .53 µF so first I tried a .47 µF capacitor, but again, I couldn't tell the difference. Unfortunately, I didn't have anything smaller, so I soldered together a 1 µF and a .47 µF to get about 0.32 µF. Unfortunately, when I hooked it back up, something in the back flashed with a pop. I looked closely to see if I could see anything obvious. I put back in the original .53 µF capacitor and tried it again, but this time I couldn't get any power to the tube.

Based on this scenario, what are the most likely parts that I may have damaged? How can I test them, and if I can't test them, I will just get new ones and start from there.

Thanks for any insights you might have.

This is my first G07. I will keep searching for information and post back here if I find anything that looks promising.

mailman-zero

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G07-FBO 13" Spark in Neck and (almost) No Picture
« Reply #1 on: September 02, 2012, 09:47:16 pm »
Okay, so I figured out that F901 fuse was blown and the HOT was what was causing it, so I replaced it and put in a new F901 fuse. Now I have B+ high voltage and an image appeared on the screen for about 2 seconds before a flash in the neck near the heaters (near the orange glow) made the image go dark. I made a video of what appears on the screen now. There is a white or blue glow in the neck closer to the neck board between the neck board and the purity rings. The flash was in the neck closer to the front of the tube, which is where the orange neck glow used to be. The light you see in the background is from the lights in the coin mech. Here's the video of me turning the monitor on a few times in a row:



My question is: Have I ruined the tube? If not, then does anyone have any idea what might be causing this problem now? It's not blowing any fuses anymore.

Thanks!

mailman-zero

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G07-FBO 13" Power Loss after playing with Mylar Caps to Vary Width
« Reply #2 on: December 08, 2012, 07:38:54 pm »
I just replaced the flyback, the HOT and the regulator. The fuses test good and aren't blowing. The result is the same as in the video except for now I can smell an electrical smell when the monitor is turned on. Any idea what could be causing what I'm seeing here? Thanks for your help.

mailman-zero

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G07-FBO 13" Power Loss after playing with Mylar Caps to Vary Width
« Reply #3 on: December 08, 2012, 08:21:37 pm »
B+ is be measuring way high (171) in case that helps.
« Last Edit: December 09, 2012, 07:23:12 pm by mailman-zero »

Rickn

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Re: G07-FBO 13" Power Loss after playing with Mylar Caps to Vary Width
« Reply #4 on: December 10, 2012, 03:21:43 pm »
Best Guess, you blue the horizontal output and possibly other components in the horizontal circuit. Also the regualtor and perhaps the series sensing resistor.
Now the B+ as you said is way too high and the highvoltage shutdown circuit is being activated.
Check the regulator first as the fuse blew, pretty much certain it is gone.

Good luck

Rick
Always happy to help.., for the best in displays
Rick Nieman
Rick@Niemandisplays.com
www.niemandisplays.com
1023 Rife Rd Cambridge, Ontario Canada N1R5S3
519-621-1722