K7000 Cap Question

[epicfatigue]

Hey everyone,

I ran into some trouble being from Australia and trying to buy a capkit from Bob Roberts so i decided i would just order the caps myself.

I noticed that the only caps they seemed to be replacing was all the Electrolytic caps.

With the exception of C4, C5, C6. Is this to avoid confusion for people as they are non polarized?
Should i just replace these while i am at it?

I ordered the exact same cap values as on the replacement parts rated to 105 deg and only in good brands, ie  NICHICON and Panasonic.

The other thing i noticed is some cap kits are coming with 47k Ohm Resistor and on the rare occasion C51, seeing its only an extra $1 for these items should i go ahead and replace them or should they just be left alone.

Thanks everyone.

C10 - 33uf 16v
C11 - 22uf 25v
C12 - 1uf 50v
C13 - 22uf 25v
C18 - 1uf 50v
C20 - 10uf 25v
C21 - 10uf 25v
C22 - 1uf 50v
C23 - 47uf 25v
C40 - 2200uf 35v
C42 - 1000uf 16v
C45 - 470uf 16v
C46 - 470uf 16v
C48 - 100uf 35v
C50 - 1000uf 25v
C56 - 22uf 160v
C57 - 47uf 160v


Also the other question i have is referring to the K7000 User manual.

I notice it almost seems like two people wrote it (probs alot more)
As i notice in the parts list they call an Electrolytic Cap either Elect or LYT.
They also use MF and µF well UF.

Is there any reasoning behind this? or is it just for shits and giggles?

[ed12]

hi
put all the cap's in u can
the unit is getting to the age where this is a truth
on to uf/mf they are basicly the same :per-say:
micro-frad's is mf /uf is english for micro-frad's
just watch the type and value's
ie do not put 10mf/25v where it want's 25uf >35v<
as a rule u will find the schooled ppl perfer uf

ed

[epicfatigue]

Thanks Ed,

I cant seem to locate 10UF, 25V bi polar caps.

I can get my hands on 10UF, 50V however i do not like stepping up the voltage, as i have heard it can increase radiation output.

Should i get overmyself and just replace them?

[ed12]

hi
sorry i could not answer your pm
my ie is giving me grief ?
to your q
on bi polar's it is fine to step up the voltage a byte ie 25-50 it's ok
in a power supply how ever u need to pay alot more attenion
ie in a dc supply,and or smp's switch mode power supply's
or horz/vert coupler's
but in your case the voltage is of no real problem as long as u stay in the :mf: range,ie 2.7/4/7/10mf bi polar
i know it confusing but in bipolar it's a basic rule
in power supply's the voltage is the rule,in bypass ie 1/4.7/10 is a bypass
some chassic's use tatinulim cap's >these puppie's are real fussy<
u are good to go at 10 mf/50v bi polar
heck it will even last longer

ed

[epicfatigue]

Thanks ed your a champion, ill go ahead and replace them with the 50v ones.

[ed12]

hi
good man u caught my drift
just watch where there going is all i am saying

ed

[Mysterioii]

Ed I'm curious now, I thought the voltage specification on electrolytic caps was just the max voltage and that there wasn't an issue using a part with a higher spec.  You're saying in power supplies you can't do this?  I've got no exposure to power supply design so I am unfamiliar with this (I have my MENG but am about 10 years out of the field and never designed supplies anyway).  Can you point me to some 'suggested reading'?  I'd like to check that out.

[ed12]

hi
wiki is a good starting point
what to clear it up some
in smps the input side is perty much tied to the voltage speced
in 5v switch supply's u will note 10v caps
in the 12v rail u will c 16v caps on the 12v rail
the spec for caps really get's tight in the vert/horz circuits
and it is possiable to over-couple a circuit
as a rule though u can use let's say 10mf/25v where a 16 was
because of the lower mf value,this rule however dose change with higher mf value's,ie 4700 and up because of the fact they hold such a large charge
and if not bleed off can do damage

ed

[epicfatigue]

thanks for that explanation, love to learn as much as i can electronics has always been a passion and hobby. (would have liked to have done it as a job)

I have another question

I have the older WGK7000  that doesnt have the ELEC C204 - 4.7uf 250v.

Should i replace this TAT with a ELEC?

Or should it be left alone, just figured that would have changed it for a reason, however i dont know if they made any other changes along with it.

Does anyone happen to know why they changed this?

[ed12]

hi
epicfatigue
and u are welcome
what i posted was some basic info on cap's
it get's more detailed when u start talking high freq stuff
but on to your q
i have seen some electrolyic cap's
in place where it was to be a bi-polar
ie the marking made u think it was a straight dc cap,when the schematic called for a coupler >bi-polar<
this should be were u ref u q to

ed

[epicfatigue]

Hey Ed,

Sorry i found that a little confusing but thats probs just me due to my lack of sleep with a baby and all lol.

The Hand book calls for a C204 080X0099-221 C Disc .01 10% Y5P 500V

However i have heard of people using a

4.7uf 250v

Are you meaning to say if i was to replace it it should be a NP?

Should i swap this? or should it be left alone?

Sorry to pump you with so many questions i just would like to do this in one swift cap replacement.

As i dont like pulling apart the monitor as i love the machine to much to risk it being out of action!

[ed12]

hi
your not
C204 080X0099-221 C Disc .01 10% Y5P 500V

that is a cermaic disk style cap
there as a rule yellow
.01 is the mf value 500v is the breakdown voltage
that cap must be  in the horz circuit ?
i will chk the manual ltr today
right now i have to step out\

ed

[ed12]

hi
c204 is on the neck board
it is used as a high freq snuffer
unless it is broke do not fix it is the token term used here
as a rule when cermaic caps go south
they take a voltage with them
not worth the worrie

ed

[epicfatigue]

Thanks ed