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Author Topic: EYGO 820H A chassis Help. No power to monitor  (Read 5025 times)

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prostoglandin

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EYGO 820H A chassis Help. No power to monitor
« on: June 23, 2012, 12:35:27 am »
Hello, I recently purchased my first arcade machine a MsPacMan. The monitor does not power up at all. The game sounds as if it works otherwise save an issue with the left direction.

I'm new to this, so if I mess up the vernacular, I'm sorry. I'm not sure the detail you need, so I am posting what I've done so far. 
I removed the monitor chassis. The side of the unit only reads "EYGO" but the circuit board is silk screened with "820H A".
I found a single capacitor missing "C407". Unfortunately, I can not find the right schematic nor replacement part list for this board.

On another topic I read http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=33906.0 which had pics of a Wei-Ya (model 820H high impedance chassis replacement) which is same company as EYGO I believe. I saw a picture showing a very similar pattern of parts with the same numbers as mine C407 and C408 in particular. One suggestion on that topic was to contact Wei-Ya. I did but with no response for weeks. 

I did a little comparison of its position and a few other components versus a 18 pin chip on 2 other EYGO schematics (1620-H19 and 1628H).
The C407 is gone and is connected to pin 3 on the chip, R415(~10k ohms), and R406 (~2.7k ohms) on one side and on the other side, R417 (~10k ohm) and pin 4 . The pin connection and adjacent resistors on both sides of where the capacitor is missing match those of both schematics (details below). C407 matches a capacitor labeled "47" on 1620-H10 and C399 "47uF" on 1628H. I have attached a pic of the missing part and the schematics I mentioned. I assume it is a 47uF capacitor but I don't know the voltage rating to get. Please correct me if my assumption is in error as well. 

R415 matches R371 on 1620-H19 and R312 on 1628H. All are 10k ohms.
R406 matches a resistor labeled "2.7k" on 1620-H19 and R320 "2.7k" on 1628H. All are 2.7k ohms.
R417 matches a resistor labeled "10k" on 1620-H19 and R319 "10k" on 1628H. All are 10k ohms.
A nearby capacitor "C408" reads "561" = 560 uF  and is on pin 1 on the chip. C408 matches C321 a 560 uF capacitor on both schematics.


grantspain

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Re: EYGO 820H A chassis Help. No power to monitor
« Reply #1 on: June 23, 2012, 07:12:42 pm »
there are loads of chassis based on the original wei ya,all will have slightly different mods

you need history on the cab first,did it ever work?has anyone attempted a repair on the chassis?


prostoglandin

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Re: EYGO 820H A chassis Help. No power to monitor
« Reply #2 on: June 23, 2012, 10:47:43 pm »
Cab=Cabinet?
The owner died and I bought it at an estate sale from the widow.
It worked, then it was stored was the story she told me.
The removed capacitor says he was most likely repairing it.
In test mode, the proper sounds for every button and direction expect left was made.
In game mode it sounds right as well.

I hear no sound in the monitor when it is fired up.
There may be other issues but I know the capacitor is missing.

I know the chassis is getting power 120V AC.
I am certainly willing to buy a new chassis, but am not familiar with where to get one and which to buy.


 

grantspain

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Ken Layton

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Re: EYGO 820H A chassis Help. No power to monitor
« Reply #4 on: July 02, 2012, 12:56:32 am »

prostoglandin

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Re: EYGO 820H A chassis Help. No power to monitor
« Reply #5 on: July 05, 2012, 07:52:05 pm »
Thanks for the schematic. It also lists the corresponding capacitor as "47" without further information like the 2 schematics I found.
My problem is I don't know exactly what part I need 47 pF or 47uF?
One of my schematics has uF on the schematic.
What voltage? I read that voltage is critical not to mess up on capacitors.
Is there a standard voltage for the schematics?
I'm really looking forward to getting down to testing and replacing parts.

Thanks for your time,
Paul

lilshawn

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Re: EYGO 820H A chassis Help. No power to monitor
« Reply #6 on: July 06, 2012, 02:55:06 pm »
the part on the schematic is a non polarized capacitor... 2 straight lines, (so a polymer or ceramic cap) as such it's going to be in picofarads (unless otherwise noted.)

because of the small size of the components, the value is abbreviated. the numbering goes like so:

1st number - 1st number
2nd - 2nd number
3rd - how many zeros.

57  = 57 picofarads
102 = 1000 picofarads
541 = 540 picofarads
932 = 9300 picofarads or 9.3 nanofarads
999 = 999000000000
etc.
etc.

any letters are just for tolerance rating ignore them.

electrolytic capacitors... shown as one straight and one curved line, are usually marked on schematics in Microfarads (uF) unless otherwise noted. numbers are straight across.

1 = 1 microfarad
450 = 450 microfarads
1000 = 1000 microfarads
etc.
etc.


 :cheers:

prostoglandin

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Re: EYGO 820H A chassis Help. No power to monitor
« Reply #7 on: July 15, 2012, 05:00:56 pm »
I'll ask the man from radio shack for a 47 picoF non-polarized ceramic capacitor.
I'm guessing low value, ceramic capacitors all have the same voltage rating unlike the larger ones.

I'll give an update after I get it in. Hopefully it's the only issue preventing the monitor from firing up.

Thank you so much for your time and expertise.

Paul

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Re: EYGO 820H A chassis Help. No power to monitor
« Reply #8 on: July 15, 2012, 11:25:09 pm »
I'll ask the man from radio shack for a 47 picoF non-polarized ceramic capacitor.

PHBBBBLLLLLT!!1 BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!! good luck with that! Those retards couldn't find their head if it was up someones ass. They don't know a capacitor from a washing machine.

Just CALL there and ask for item "2720130" if they say they have it, ask how many...if it's one or 2 have them to go and PHYSICALLY CHECK. most of those idiots can punch a # into a computer.


I'm guessing low value, ceramic capacitors all have the same voltage rating unlike the larger ones.

no, but it generally goes by leaps an bounds basically you match up the size. bigger is okay. though i wouldn't sub a 2400 volt one in there because not only would the leads be too thick to fit in the holes, really far apart...the ones i quoted are 50 volt. the pic you showed had pretty small holes closely spaced together, a 50v would probably be fine. hard to tell without the original.