I require aid from the solder king!

[Mikezilla]

Hey Haruman.

Just tried to solder something for the first time last night and it was a huge embarassing failure. I might have got the wrong solder. What kind of solder do you recommend for LED wiring? I watched some videos on youtube, do you have any tips or tricks or anything? The solder I got kind of just evaporated. As I mentioned in another thread, Im wiring up some LEDs to make the Infinity Gauntlet for a friend for Comic con. Any help would be appreciated.

[HaRuMaN]

Lead based, rosin core.   

Don't use the lead free stuff. 

[Nephasth]

I'm not the solder king by any means , but I recently got some 63/37 .020" no clean solder for small solder points on circuit boards and am pretty pleased with it.

[Mysterioii]

+1 on the lead based rosin core.  I've got a rather old spool of it that I can't quite bring myself to toss and the rosin has lost it's kick with age so I keep a bottle of flux handy, but if your solder is relatively "young" then you wouldn't need to mess with it.

I've been told to use silver solder for surface mount work but that's for another discussion...   

[knave]

When I was completely new to soldering, I didn't know to "tin" the parts I would be soldering. Talk about frustrating...I couldn't get anyting to stick.

Now I use a dab of flux and it's great. A decent iron helps too...

[Dawgz Rule]

Knave beat me to the punch but I will reinforce what he said.....tin the leads and you will find it easier.  Agreed on all of the above too.

[HaRuMaN]

A decent iron helps too...

I use a $15 Radio Shack grounded soldering iron.  15 Watt I think.  It's more technique & proper solder (lead) than anything else.

[knave]

A decent iron helps too...

I use a $15 Radio Shack grounded soldering iron.  15 Watt I think.  It's more technique & proper solder (lead) than anything else.

Me too, it's a huge improvement from the super cheap one I tried at first. Cough...HF...cough...

[Mikezilla]

I got my iron from HF!!!  It was only 4 bucks. So wait a minute, isnt lead toxic? Is it safe to breathe in the fumes when you burn it? The one I have, like DR mentioned, doesnt stick to anything. Im just soldering LED wires together. Any suggestions on how to solder the wires to the batteries?

[Nephasth]

Any suggestions on how to solder the wires to the batteries?

Don't.

[HaRuMaN]

Any suggestions on how to solder the wires to the batteries?

Don't.

Yeah, heat + batteries = bad.  Get battery holders and solder to those.

[Nephasth]

Hot glue?

[Mysterioii]

After years of using a cheapo radio shack wood burner soldering iron I broke down and got myself a Weller digitally temperature controlled one, and I'm very happy with it.  It wasn't cheap but to me it was worth every penny (plus I wrote it off on my taxes as a business expense so it was essentially 30% off...)      But really, it's whatever you're comfortable with.  Definitely try a cheap one first and see if you're happy with it.

And yeah like they said...  don't solder to the batteries.   

[knave]

I got my iron from HF!!!  It was only 4 bucks. So wait a minute, isnt lead toxic? Is it safe to breathe in the fumes when you burn it? The one I have, like DR mentioned, doesnt stick to anything. Im just soldering LED wires together. Any suggestions on how to solder the wires to the batteries?

All HF jokes aside...you can get the Radio shack iron for only a few bucks more...do it. but you are welcome to find out for yourself.

FYI I think the iron by itself is $7.99 at RS, I bought a kit for $15.

For batteries I order them with solder tabs on them. I reccomend you do the same.

Also...if your iron is new make sure you tin the tip as well...

Good luck.

[yotsuya]

Any tips for tinning the tips or wires? I've done some limited soldering but want to make sure i'm doing it correctly.

[Nephasth]

Here's a ? for the solder king... What's the average longevity of a tip?

[Mysterioii]

I know this wasn't directed at me, and I am but a solder knave, but I'll give my two cents.  Tips will last for years and years if you take care of them.  I was always taught to let a blob of solder stay on the tip when you were done to protect it from oxidation.  Honestly I keep lots of different size/shapes of tips in my toolbox but I've never had one go bad*... at least not since I screwed one up back when I was a co-op many years ago...

*caveat... there was a period of a few years when I was away from engineering so some of my tips have only seen very light duty...

Tips for tinning...  If they're stranded wires I was taught to not pull the insulation off all the way to start with when stripping them... leave it on just a little bit and use it as a handle to twist the strands nice and tight before you pull it off the rest of the way.  If you don't have good rosin core solder put a little flux on your wire first.  Put your wire in a "third hand" thing or some other clamp or what have you, or set it on the edge of the desk or something.  Solder in one hand, iron in the other.  Get a little dot of molten solder on the tip, it helps with heat distribution.  Bring the tip and solder blob into contact with the wire, watch with satisfaction as any rosin you applied sizzles up, and the wire should basically suck up the solder blob as you hold it there.  Bring the solder in your other hand into contact with the wire, iron still touching the wire, and move the iron back and forth a little to make sure you wet the whole tip.

As for the fumes (more concerned about rosin fumes than the lead vapors personally), some people use a fan to blow them away, or you really can just take a deep breath before you touch the solder to the tip then blow it away from yourself as you go... just come up for air from time to time...  

[HaRuMaN]

Here's a ? for the solder king... What's the average longevity of a tip?

I go through one about every 6 months...  (15 Watt Radio Shack tip).  I'm using it a lot, though.

[HaRuMaN]

Any tips for tinning the tips or wires? I've done some limited soldering but want to make sure i'm doing it correctly.

I don't really mess with tinning the tips.  Soldering will do that for you.  It helps to have a brass 'sponge' to wipe the tip off.

As far as soldering technique... apply a little flux to the spot you want the wire to go, and then apply a little dab of solder to that spot.  Take your stripped wire, apply solder to the end, and then hold the wire to the spot, apply heat, and done.

[Vigo]

have a recommended flux? You use a flux pen or tube or brush or what?

[Mikezilla]

Thanks for all the input guys. I had no idea that soldering batteries was a bad idea. Ill try hotglue first, then try those battery clips you guys mentioned. I went to Radioshack, and you guys called it, the guy there didnt know anything, he didnt even know where the LEDs were in the store. 

Obviously better to use holders, but c'mon.  Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. 

Lead fumes are harmless, Mike, and you don't need to have children.  I suggest you inhale deeply and frequently.

Thanks for the suggestion. 

[Nephasth]

Here's a ? for the solder king... What's the average longevity of a tip?

I go through one about every 6 months...  (15 Watt Radio Shack tip).  I'm using it a lot, though.

Do you resharpen/reshape the tip in that time frame? I'm finding that my tip will gouge/groove out during long soldering sessions (making the tip kind of hook like). Don't know if it's improper technique or normal.

[Mysterioii]

I've never had that happen, myself.

[HaRuMaN]

Here's a ? for the solder king... What's the average longevity of a tip?

I go through one about every 6 months...  (15 Watt Radio Shack tip).  I'm using it a lot, though.

Do you resharpen/reshape the tip in that time frame? I'm finding that my tip will gouge/groove out during long soldering sessions (making the tip kind of hook like). Don't know if it's improper technique or normal.

Nope, never had that happen.

[mountain]

Any tips for tinning the tips or wires? I've done some limited soldering but want to make sure i'm doing it correctly.

As far as soldering technique... apply a little flux to the spot you want the wire to go, and then apply a little dab of solder to that spot.  Take your stripped wire, apply solder to the end, and then hold the wire to the spot, apply heat, and done.

When using rosin core solder there is no need for flux. That's what the rosin is for. I have done my share of "wire welding" over the last 25 years being and Avionics Tech, and now working for an electronics manufacturer. The most useful tip I tell people is pay attention to heat transfer. Taking a "dry' tip to a dry subject and then trying to get solder to flow is wrong. You will heat up the wire (or whatever you are soldering) too fast. Pre-tinning the tip is essential. Once the flow begins between two surfaces, you're done. The tip should be pulled away within a couple of seconds.

[Mysterioii]

When using rosin core solder there is no need for flux. That's what the rosin is for.

Ugh, I'm with you but don't ever make the mistake of repeating this in front of old dudes that played with CB radios in the 70s unless you like pointless tirades.

Yeah in general I agree, that's the way it should be.  But like I mentioned earlier, I have a BIG roll of old rosin core solder and I guess the rosin has broken down or dried out or something...  "lost it's kick" and doesn't flow worth a darn on it's own.  A little flux and it's good as new.  But most people probably don't have 15-20 year old rosin core solder lying around I guess... 

I probably should just chuck it but I hate wasting stuff.  Now, if i was doing a big solder job I wouldn't mess with it because it would just be a tedious waste of time if I had to do more than a few joints.  I guess I could just melt the whole thing down in a solder pot and use it for "dip tinning" or what have you...  I've never done things that way, but come to think of it I believe I've been told that that's actually an effective way to tin a ton of wires quickly rather than doing them one at a time with an iron... makes sense...

[HaRuMaN]

My solder is old, and somewhat dry, which is why I use extra flux.

[Vigo]

When using rosin core solder there is no need for flux. That's what the rosin is for.

Ugh, I'm with you but don't ever make the mistake of repeating this in front of old dudes that played with CB radios in the 70s unless you like pointless tirades.

I never really use flux either. I just pre-tin the tip as well. I want to test out using flux though so I can see if it will produce "prettier" soldier points for me since aesthetically my soldering is hit and miss.

[Mysterioii]

If you want to try it I recommend getting a non-reactive little squeeze bottle with a teeny tiny but non-sharpened needle tip like this one...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Soldering-Liquid-Flux-Bottle-Syringe-Funnel-Needle-New-/190545500313?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c5d659899

The one I got was a bit leaky around where the top screwed on though, so I wrapped it up with teflon pipe tape.

By the way when people refer to tinning the tip that really just refers to getting a nice shiny non-oxidized coating on it, which is great, but if you really want to get good heat distribution that's why you get a little tiny pin-head dab of solder on the iron before you tin the wire.  It increases how much surface area of the wire is in contact with the heat and really improves heat transfer.  I guess it's kinda the same thing but to me it's two separate things.

[mountain]

When using rosin core solder there is no need for flux. That's what the rosin is for.

Ugh, I'm with you but don't ever make the mistake of repeating this in front of old dudes that played with CB radios in the 70s unless you like pointless tirades.

I hear you. We used to ride the old timers who always had flux tins in their arsenal even though there were cases of rosin core solder in the parts department.

[Mysterioii]

When using rosin core solder there is no need for flux. That's what the rosin is for.

Ugh, I'm with you but don't ever make the mistake of repeating this in front of old dudes that played with CB radios in the 70s unless you like pointless tirades.

I hear you. We used to ride the old timers who always had flux tins in their arsenal even though there were cases of rosin core solder in the parts department.

Carn-farnds ya, you young whippersnappers!!   

[Vigo]

If you want to try it I recommend getting a non-reactive little squeeze bottle with a teeny tiny but non-sharpened needle tip like this one...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Soldering-Liquid-Flux-Bottle-Syringe-Funnel-Needle-New-/190545500313?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c5d659899

I'll give that a go! Thanks!

[yotsuya]

I need to watch some tutorial videos on how to do it right. I plug in the iron, let it get hot, touch the end of the wire and end of the solder together to mount it on the PCB, hope it makes a nice shinny melted ball that hardens, and repeat. In the end, it works, but I'd like to make sure it will stay working.

[SavannahLion]

My technique must be way off or my "rosin core" solder must be crap or something. I wasn't getting very consistent solder joints, probably about 50% would turn out like crap. So I obtained some flux, dab a little smidge on with a fine brush or swab and my solder jobs are much much cleaner. Out of a recent 46 pin solder job, only one or two weren't very clean. I'm inclined to think exhaustion probably had more to do with the "unclean" joints. The only drawback is I must clean it off.  I probably should find some no-clean flux and see how it works.

I mean, how long is rosin core solder expected to last before it "expires"? Five years? 2?

[Dervacumen]

A decent iron helps too...

I use a $15 Radio Shack grounded soldering iron.  15 Watt I think.  It's more technique & proper solder (lead) than anything else.

This is so true.quote author=pinballjim link=topic=119449.msg1266012#msg1266012 date=1334179881]
Use sand paper to scuff the battery a little and then solder quickly.

 
[/quote]

Wow.

When using rosin core solder there is no need for flux. That's what the rosin is for.

Ugh, I'm with you but don't ever make the mistake of repeating this in front of old dudes that played with CB radios in the 70s unless you like pointless tirades.

But most people probably don't have 15-20 year old rosin core solder lying around I guess...  

I have a roll of rosin core solder that I use on occasion. It's from the 1960's and it works better than the stuff I get from radio shack.  I mostly use it for larger wire that's hard to twist together.  Haven't had a problem with the rosin drying out.  I see the drying around the cut edge of the strand but once I melt past that I've got brand new solder.  Well, 50yrs old new.  Awesome stuff.

[compute]

I need to watch some tutorial videos on how to do it right. I plug in the iron, let it get hot, touch the end of the wire and end of the solder together to mount it on the PCB, hope it makes a nice shinny melted ball that hardens, and repeat. In the end, it works, but I'd like to make sure it will stay working.

If it forms a ball, you're either applying too much or the solder is not flowing.  Get a scrap pcb or something to play with.  The materials you are soldering need to heat up in order to form an intermetallic bond.  When this happens, the solder will literally flow  either into a through-hold or across your soldering area.  Start by using the three-second rule:  hold the iron to the work, apply the solder to the now-heated WORK (not the iron), remove the solder, then remove the iron.  If you apply the solder to the work and it melts, then you know if it's hot enough to form the intermetallic bond.  I mentor people who are learning to solder for a living, and the one thing you need is PATIENCE.  Make some scrap and play around with it.  A "good" solder joint is going to be damn near impossible to break.  If the solder doesn't flow, you get a condition called "non-wetting" where the solder will sit on top of the material instead of bonding and flowing onto it.  This will still conduct electricity, but will be unreliable and will break easily since it is only bonded to the metal superficially.

[EightBySix]

I need to watch some tutorial videos on how to do it right. I plug in the iron, let it get hot, touch the end of the wire and end of the solder together to mount it on the PCB, hope it makes a nice shinny melted ball that hardens, and repeat. In the end, it works, but I'd like to make sure it will stay working.

If it forms a ball, you're either applying too much or the solder is not flowing.  Get a scrap pcb or something to play with.  The materials you are soldering need to heat up in order to form an intermetallic bond.  When this happens, the solder will literally flow  either into a through-hold or across your soldering area.  Start by using the three-second rule:  hold the iron to the work, apply the solder to the now-heated WORK (not the iron), remove the solder, then remove the iron.  If you apply the solder to the work and it melts, then you know if it's hot enough to form the intermetallic bond.  I mentor people who are learning to solder for a living, and the one thing you need is PATIENCE.  Make some scrap and play around with it.  A "good" solder joint is going to be damn near impossible to break.  If the solder doesn't flow, you get a condition called "non-wetting" where the solder will sit on top of the material instead of bonding and flowing onto it.  This will still conduct electricity, but will be unreliable and will break easily since it is only bonded to the metal superficially.

+1
My 'aha' moment was realisin I had to get the *work* hot and then apply the solder to the work. It just jumps on to the wires (or whatever) and flows around them that way. I found that putting a bit of solder onto the iron tip (tinning) seems to make a better surface area  ironand work come into contact, and heats it up better