Looking for a table saw, any suggestions?

[emb]

I am in the market I buy a table saw for some random hobby projects. Does anyone have any recommendations for a decent one around the $150 price range? I don't want to spend too much on one based on how often I would be using it.

[yotsuya]

I bought one for $200, then realized it was ---smurfy--- quality and so went back and spent $300 and got this:

Lowes Porter-Cable Table Saw

[kahlid74]

This is the one I got three years ago.  Put a Freud Diablo 40/60 tooth blade in it and it rill rock just like a 500 dollar Dewalt.

http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Reconditioned-Ryobi-ZRRTS20-Portable-QuickSTAND/dp/B0031OZQEW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1333930670&sr=8-5

[Mental]

For $150 you won't do much better than a Delta or maybe Ryobi. They might be ok for very small projects, but I don't know how much I'd trust them (safety, accuracy, etc).

[TopJimmyCooks]

If your budget is $150 for a TS with the goal of breaking down panels (plywood and mdf sheets) for the arcade hobby, you'd be best served by a $65 circular saw and a $40 8' long saw guide, on a $20 homemade saw table , with two $5/clamps.  and a $20 carbide tipped combo blade.  I'm in a hurry but if you need info on any of these let me know and I can come up w/some links tonight.  I have a nice TS and still use this circular saw setup to break down panels. 

The reason why is even a nice contractor style tablesaw is not that great for big panels unless you have a lot of space for a decent sized outfeed table.  If you're ripping lengths of dimensional wood, nothing beats the TS. 

[kahlid74]

That's an awesome idea but requires a lot of work to build and a nail gun to get it super pro.  For me I just use my Skil X-Bench with a circular saw.  The thing separates and I make my cuts in the middle and the 8x4 sheets stay all prim and proper.

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&sugexp=efis&tok=MoywVx42-aF-v49f3OzKOw&ds=pr&pq=Skil+3100-06+X-Bench&cp=5&gs_id=aq&xhr=t&q=skil+x-bench&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&biw=1680&bih=964&bs=1&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=2463907776247028784&sa=X&ei=Ry2DT-35CKjC2wX3rKjrBg&sqi=2&ved=0CHgQ8wIwAA

[TopJimmyCooks]

I agree that the video guy went a little overboard, I hesitated to post his vid.  here's my $10 version, way lighter:



2x4s (scraps), drywall screws, and some legs from a busted up folding table.  The reason to use this over sawhorses or a bench is it supports your cut pieces so you don't have to worry about holding them while they're trying to fall.  Plus, as you can see from the pic, you can cut into this as much as you want without worry. 

[spoot]

$150 is a bit limiting for new.  Perhaps can get lucky at craigslist, auction or local sales site?  Got lucky at an auction awhile ago....$65 for old still USA made Delta contractor with wings, blade and a dado set.  Woot.  Got it home and spent a few hours getting the surface rust off and was happily sawing.

[GregD]

There is no "new" tablesaw that is worth buying for $150.  The most important thing with a tablesaw is stability.  You need weight to have stability.  Cast iron is the way to go.  It stays flat and adds the weight needed for stability.  The next thing to look for is a belt-driven saw.  Direct drive saws are underpowered and loud.  A cheap saw also has a cheap fence.  Cheap fences are not acurate.  Not saying that you need to go buy a Unisaw or Powermatic but do not try and rip panels with a saw that is too small for the job.  Look for a used saw on Craigslist.  You can find all kinds of older saws out there within your price range.  Look for a Delta or Jet contractor saw or even an older Craftsman.  Then again, if you are making picture frames with it then a cheap saw will be fine.

[emb]

There is no "new" tablesaw that is worth buying for $150.  The most important thing with a tablesaw is stability.  You need weight to have stability.  Cast iron is the way to go.  It stays flat and adds the weight needed for stability.  The next thing to look for is a belt-driven saw.  Direct drive saws are underpowered and loud.  A cheap saw also has a cheap fence.  Cheap fences are not acurate.  Not saying that you need to go buy a Unisaw or Powermatic but do not try and rip panels with a saw that is too small for the job.  Look for a used saw on Craigslist.  You can find all kinds of older saws out there within your price range.  Look for a Delta or Jet contractor saw or even an older Craftsman.  Then again, if you are making picture frames with it then a cheap saw will be fine.

Thanks for the info. Maybe I will just keep my eye open for a nice tablesaw at an auction.

[spoot]

Due to the economy the last few years you might want to check out some local pawn shops as well.  Alot of contractors and cabinet builders closed up shop.

[kahlid74]

There is no "new" tablesaw that is worth buying for $150.  The most important thing with a tablesaw is stability.  You need weight to have stability.  Cast iron is the way to go.  It stays flat and adds the weight needed for stability.  The next thing to look for is a belt-driven saw.  Direct drive saws are underpowered and loud.  A cheap saw also has a cheap fence.  Cheap fences are not acurate.  Not saying that you need to go buy a Unisaw or Powermatic but do not try and rip panels with a saw that is too small for the job.  Look for a used saw on Craigslist.  You can find all kinds of older saws out there within your price range.  Look for a Delta or Jet contractor saw or even an older Craftsman.  Then again, if you are making picture frames with it then a cheap saw will be fine.

I'm by no means an expert on wood working but I will say my Ryobi $150 dollar table saw and stand has served me very well.  When equipped with a Freud Diablo blade it's 3 times quieter than the stock blades and it cuts straight and is stable.  The fence is not super awesome but not super cheap either.  It works and it's pretty damn accurate too.  Would I cut a 4x8 MDF sheet on it?  No way, it's not that tough.  but I've cut 3x3 MDF squares and they're all accurate.

[EvilNuff]

If your budget is $150 then simply put don't buy a table saw.  Seriously.  The table saw is, IMO, the most dangerous tool in the shop.  Getting one with a riving knife is, again just my opinions here, an absolutely dead requirement.  The cheapest ones I am aware of that have riving knives are the Bosch and Ridgids which run around $500 give or take.  Any cheaper saw is simply not going to be safe.

[jennifer]

         Not safe?.... Hmmm, I have had no safety problems with mine, But It is treated with respect... Stand to the side when starting/cutting... bla...bla...
The stand is a must however, and the fence seems to get loose occasionally.... I did throw the safety guard away, Jennifer likes to see the blade,
and never did trust them.... A 150.00 usd tablesaw?....Oh hell ya!

[kahlid74]

If your budget is $150 then simply put don't buy a table saw.  Seriously.  The table saw is, IMO, the most dangerous tool in the shop.  Getting one with a riving knife is, again just my opinions here, an absolutely dead requirement.  The cheapest ones I am aware of that have riving knives are the Bosch and Ridgids which run around $500 give or take.  Any cheaper saw is simply not going to be safe.

I get that, but I think it honestly depends on what you're cutting.  Additionally I'll argue to the bank that there is no great dangerous tool than the router, period.  The router is just a monster dangerous tool.

[compute]

$150?  Easy.  I snagged mine for $25 from a garage sale, looked like the guy used it only a few times.  You're not going to get a tool-junkie quality piece, but for that price you can at least get in the game.  If I paid for new stuff, though, I think I would go with a really nice circular saw instead.

[Sparkolicious]

$150 won't buy you and kind of real table saw.   For a portable saw I've gone with DeWalt, strictly because of their rack and pinion fence. You set that thing up, and it cuts true every time.  Here's a link to reviews on several brands.  http://www.woodworkingtoolsetc.com/table-saw-reviews.html 

For around $150-180 you could have one of these.  http://www.skilshop.com/skil-hd5860-8-1-4-in-worm-drive-skilsaw/sklnhd5860,default,pd.html?ref=PLA-HD5860&origin=pla&zmam=31282435&zmas=26&zmac=44&zmap=HD5860&gclid=CNmHoozlua8CFWHDtgodHG0slw
Worm drives operate the way God intended

ALL power tools can be dangerous, and I have had some minor injuries throughout the years.  The one thing common with almost every accident I have been around is carelessness. Usually that carelessness is a result of moving too fast, and not setting up properly before using a tool.  I have never owned a saw with a riving knife/splitter, and not having one would not sway my decision personally, but I have been around these things for most of my life.  Have I ever had a piece kick back? Yes, but again, it was because of poor set up on my part, and I try to be mindful of where I am in relation to the piece.  I gotta agree with kahlid74 here...  A hand held router is pretty scary.. especially in the hands of a novice.  You try to take more of a chunk than you should and that thing can get away from you in a hurry. Especially when you are working with large, curvy pieces.   

[TopJimmyCooks]

I had an argument with someone on here a while back so let me state that this is based on my experience as a woodworker and contractor over many years. 

Your $150 TS with no riving knife, no guard, and a short fence is most likely a safer tool than a circular saw.  kickbacks, etc. happen with a circular saw as well.  That said, for $150 I'd go with the circular saw setup I described above unless you're only ripping.  The plywood cutting table with straightedge is a very safe way to use the circular saw. 

Panel cutting - go with circular saw
Ripping lumber - go with table saw. 

[EvilNuff]

I get that, but I think it honestly depends on what you're cutting.  Additionally I'll argue to the bank that there is no great dangerous tool than the router, period.  The router is just a monster dangerous tool.

I am going to come off as rude here but I don't know any way to phrase it without being rude...you've got no clue what you are talking about.  The router can be made safe via processes & procedures.  The table saw cannot...period. 

[emb]

I came up with a few more uses for a tablesaw to justify its purpose. I think i'm going to up my budget for a new or used one at around $500.

[Woodshop Flunky]

I came up with a few more uses for a tablesaw to justify its purpose. I think i'm going to up my budget for a new or used one at around $500.

It was really hard for me to pony up the money for my table saw, but I'm glad I finally did.  I had a cheap $125 saw that was scary and difficult to use.  Once I got my new tablesaw, I knew I had bought a machine that should outlive me for hobby work.  And, like so many things, once you have it you discover so many things to do with it.

[kahlid74]

I get that, but I think it honestly depends on what you're cutting.  Additionally I'll argue to the bank that there is no great dangerous tool than the router, period.  The router is just a monster dangerous tool.

I am going to come off as rude here but I don't know any way to phrase it without being rude...you've got no clue what you are talking about.  The router can be made safe via processes & procedures.  The table saw cannot...period.  

Okay lol.  I responded to your other post too but that's cool, I'm not a contractor or a wood worker by trade, so you're right, I'm not a pro at this.  I do however like to think I know a bit about geometry and yeah, it depends on what you're cutting.  My good old table saw has a blade at a fixed angle.  With my hand twelve inches away on the side of a piece of MDF, it's quite difficult for the table saw blade to "pull" my hand a foot towards it.  Especially with the guard on.  I'm not saying it won't happen, but I am saying that angle wise, momentum wise, I'd have to really be careless for it to happen.

If you still think I'm at idiot that's fine.  My "limited" experience has proven to me that it's far easier to be careless and get hurt by a router than to be careless and get hurt by a table saw.  Either way if you're careless in generally and don't take your time, you're bound to have issues.

Additionally, processes and procedures can make anything safe.  Take those away and you're back to square one on everything.

[Woodshop Flunky]

This is kind of scary, but our grandads were often the real masters of DIY.

[kahlid74]

I love wood shops like that with home made tools.  I'll never be skilled enough to do that but I love the idea/concept and the beautiful projects they produce.