WG 25K7191 Questions

[C4N3]

Hi Guru's,
I have a Konami Simpsons cabinet that is garbage that I'm scapping, and a Konami X-men 4player cabinet in good condition. Both of them are using a WG 25K7191 monitor chassis and Zenith Tubes. The monitor in the simpsons cab will not work, but the tube has no burn-in. The X-men monitor works great, but the tube has burn in. Is it possible to remove the glass tube from the Simpsons cabinet and swap it with the burnt in X-men tube, while using the working chassis from the X-men cabinet? If it is possible, is it a good idea? What risks will I face? How hard is it? Will it need any calibration or anything else after the swap?

I really appreciate the help. Thanks!

[b3dr0ck]

well ... you should listen to pretty much anyone over me, cause I'm green as it gets, but I have been working with 4- WG25" K7000, moving them around

1 - the monitor that doesn't work, could be the tube that is bad itself.  I had one that actually had the neck tube cracked.  It was effectively garbage
2 - you would need to decide whether you going to swap out neck boards, or just the chassis.  If you do neckboard you'll need cut it from the tube neck.  If you do just the chassis, and keep the neck board, you'd cut 4 wires - 2 are voltage (I think).  You'd need to solder the wires back - especially the voltage ones - I think.  (I can go to my garage and look, I'm going to do the exact thing your talking about.  I'm going to take the chassis and neck board off one WG25" and put it on another tube.  The working tube is from a chassis with a blown flyback, and the working chassis is from a the monitor with the cracked neck tube.)

[MonMotha]

There's no real reason to swap chassis boards without the neckboards unless you have a known bad neckboard that you don't want to repair.  Properly dressing the focus lead for the voltage (~4-6kV) is not something I would recommend taking on for most people.

In general, if you've got a good tube from the same model monitor, it should be a straight swap as the yokes are compatible.  Just pull the boardset (i.e. disconnect anode, neckboard, dag ground, and yoke) from one and hook everything back up on the other.  Be aware that after doing this, you may need to adjust screen (aka G2), and color gains and cut-offs to even get a picture due to tube variation.  Then do the standard alignment including focus, brightness/contrast, geometry, etc.

If you're not sure as to compatibility, check the yoke's inductance.  The tube is very likely compatible as long as it has the same base (number of pins).

Standard precautions to pulling the anode apply: discharge it, wait a while, then discharge it again.  Make sure you get everything hooked up right before you apply power.  I like to create a checklist as I unhook things, especially on more complicated monitors that may have other things needing disconnection and hooked back up.  Forgetting to hook up any one of the major connections is usually a major hassle (often resulting in damage) at best and a fairly bad safety hazard at worst (like leaving the anode unhooked, but that's pretty obvious).

[C4N3]

MonMotha,
Is there a guide too doing the alignment and calibrating and color config on the Tube you have mentioned? Are there any special tools needed for this? Thanks!

b3dr0ck,
When are you going to do your swap? It might be smart for me to wait and see how yours turns out so I can copy your results and process (assuming success). Thanks!

[C4N3]

bump!

[C4N3]

Anybody?