Main Restorations Software Audio/Jukebox/MP3 Everything Else Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements Monitor/Video GroovyMAME Merit/JVL Touchscreen Meet Up Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing Woodworking Software Support Forums Consoles Project Arcade Reviews
Automated Projects Artwork Frontend Support Forums Pinball Forum Discussion Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board controls.dat Linux Miscellaneous Arcade Wiki Discussion Old Archives
Lightguns Arcade1Up Try the site in https mode Site News

Unread posts | New Replies | Recent posts | Rules | Chatroom | Wiki | File Repository | RSS | Submit news

  

Author Topic: Adding artwork to the cabinet  (Read 2055 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Dalgaard

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 81
  • Last login:April 05, 2015, 01:42:14 pm
Adding artwork to the cabinet
« on: February 27, 2012, 08:12:56 am »
My cabinet is almost done, and the artwork is finished so it's time to get it on the machine :)

I have never tried adding big pieces of artwork before (or any artwork for that matter), and Im interested in knowing...just how hard is it? It costs a small fortune to get this stuff printed, so it would be a shame to ruin it all just because I've never tried it before.

I've 2 full sidearts, a big kickplate, controlpanel and a marquee. If you're careful, is it possible to do nicely, even if it's the first time?

Appreciate any help/advice you guys can give me.

Le Chuck

  • Saint, make a poll!
  • Wiki Contributor
  • Trade Count: (+6)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 5509
  • Last login:June 14, 2025, 06:26:06 pm
  • <insert personal text here>
Re: Adding artwork to the cabinet
« Reply #1 on: February 27, 2012, 08:57:06 am »
Pulled some stuff from other threads for you, just make sure you've at least primered and sanded the sides first.  Vinyl should not be applied to bare wood as it is way too porous for a good application.

Get a spray bottle and put one small drop of dish soap in and fill the rest with room temp water.
   
Start separating the decal at one corner and pull it back slowly, keeping the adhesive wet as you go.  Just spray lightly, you don't want to soak it.
   
Wet the cab surface with the same solution mixed previously and position the decal.  At this point you can tug the corners as necessary and slide the decal into place as its floating on a thin layer of water.

Spray the top of the decal with a light mist then using a firm rubber or plastic scrapper/squeegee work from the middle out to the edges.  Use a towel to dry the spillage as you go.  Overlap your strokes by 50% and if you get an air bubble you just can't move ---tallywhacker--- it once with a needle and work it flat using the squeegee. 

Be sure to really work the edges and ensure all the solution is out so the adhesive will bind properly. 

Let dry 24 hrs at room temperature for full adhesion.

----

This is considered a technique for those new to vinyl.  The pros do a dry app.  The above method is what I have used on all my cabs for the past 8 years.  I've never had the minerals to just lay it out and start peeling while laying it down.  More power to those who can do this and get great results, that said I haven't had a decal peel yet and I haven't had a wrinkly or improperly positioned decal yet. 

What's the best way to do this?  I did a search, and see people talking about a "wet method" but can't find any step by step process for it?

HERE is a link to a good tutorial.

Quote
Does water and soap work the best..what ratio of soap to water mix should one use?
Soap isn't necessary; but, if you do use it, don't put more than about 5-10 drops/pint, or so.
Any more than that, and you run the risk of the soap causing the vinyl to not stick.

Quote
How much water to apply?  how long until it dries?
Apply liberally, but be careful not to get it on the paper backing before you remove it, or it will deteriorate, and cause you a bunch of frustration.
Drying isn't a real issue because you will be removing the application tape after squeezing the water out from under the graphic.

Quote
Do you squeegee all the water out the sides?
Yes.
Start at the middle, and squeegee toward the edges.
The goal is to remove all the water, without leaving bubbles anywhere.

Hope that helps, let us know how it turns out.

Dalgaard

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 81
  • Last login:April 05, 2015, 01:42:14 pm
Re: Adding artwork to the cabinet
« Reply #2 on: February 27, 2012, 05:29:21 pm »
This is great! Thank you so much.

Seith

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 402
  • Last login:September 08, 2018, 10:50:41 am
Re: Adding artwork to the cabinet
« Reply #3 on: February 28, 2012, 09:22:05 am »
Vinyl should not be applied to bare wood as it is way too porous for a good application.

So, say you are building with MDF; what is recommended to coat it with first before applying laminate?

Le Chuck

  • Saint, make a poll!
  • Wiki Contributor
  • Trade Count: (+6)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 5509
  • Last login:June 14, 2025, 06:26:06 pm
  • <insert personal text here>
Re: Adding artwork to the cabinet
« Reply #4 on: February 28, 2012, 09:28:37 am »
Any kind of primer would be a good first coat, then give it a quick sanding with 200 or 300 grit for a good ahesion surface.  I alway prime and paint all surfaces before vinyl to get the best result.  If you are doing a wet app you really really need to make sure it's sealed before putting any water on your cab or you can get swelling.