De-casing a double-insulated TV and other questions from a new-guy :).

[stefanarak]

Hi guys!
My brother and I are working on building our own arcade machine, but we are far from experts at either woodworking or electronics! We have built a poker table before and that's about the extent of it.
Regardless, it's going pretty well, we have the wooden cab mostly finished, and we have the control panel built and working (using the Ipac-2 system), also the MAME and PSx emulators are up and working well on the computer we have set aside for the purpose.

Anyway, it came towards getting a screen up and running, and of course I have been looking at different options. We managed to pick up a 4:3 27 inch old fashioned monitor from someone on freecycle.com and as we are in the UK I have read that we should be able to use SCART to display our emulations in their native resolution, effectively using the TV as an arcade monitor. I am pleased with this as it will of course look more authentic than using a LCD or plasma screen.

However, the case is really bulky and slightly too big for our cabinet, as well as the weight making it difficult to work with. I want to de-case the TV and here are my questions.

• It is an old TV, model: kv-29x1u, chassis: BE-3D [User manual: http://ftp.qrz.ru/pub/hamradio/schemes/tv/sony/BE3D_2.pdf]

Is this a CRT TV. And as such, if I want to decase it, will I have to discharge residual HV charge that may be in the tube. Or is this only necessary if I am performing work on the TVs components? Is it better to be safe than sorry?  
Also I read that because in the UK we have earth in our plugs, it is possible to leave the TV plugged into a socket (but with the socket switched off) and this will be the same as de-charging it. This was on a youtube comment though so I won't believe it unless I hear someone who is necessarily knowledgeable confirm it!

• Once I de-case the TV, does anyone have any advice as to how best mount it inside the case. The plan I was originally following simply has a shelf and a computer monitor resting on it, but once it is decased I won't just be able to sit the TV down will I? Is there a convenient solution to this?

• I understand I can use SCART to my advantage, however reading the thread I'm not sure on exactly what I need to do. Is it best to purchase a VGA/DVI-> scart conversion wire or will I have to wire it up myself? I also read something about wiring it so that there is a voltage going into certain ports of the SCART (pin 8 if I remember) so as to wake the TV up when it detects power. Is this something that is easy to do/worth doing?

Basically I just need some basic advice on how I can proceed in getting the TV set up so it is mounted in the case and I am able to display what is on my computer using it. This model doesn't 'remember' what channel it was on so I know that's not 100% ideal but it is an otherwise decent TV so I'm not too bothered about that.


Thanks in advance for your help!
Here are some pictures of what I have so far just to give you an idea:







Oh yeah and here is the poker table we made .




Thanks guys!


EDIT:
I just found out the TV is "double insulated". What does this mean in terms of de-casing it? I've heard you are not supposed to ground a double insulated TV, but what are the implications for decasing it.

[BobA]

You cannot ground  the chassis of this model as it is a live chassis.  This means that the chassis has AC voltage on it. The case double insulated to protect you from coming in contact with the metal chassis of the TV.  To be safer it could be run via an isolation transformer just like an arcade monitor.  It must be mounted in your cab so that you cannot touch any of the metal of the chassis.   Leaving it plugged in does not discharge it.  With power off the anode cap that connects to the tube must be shorted to discharge the tv. 

This is an old style CRT type TV.

[stefanarak]

Right, got it. So it must be mounted so that no metal can be touched as the case is effectively live. How about de-casing the monitor, what precautions must I take? I know it can be dangerous and I'm not going to do anything stupid, I just want to know if this means that I basically cannot even de-case the monitor without running the risk of being shocked.

[apfelanni]

i dont know the x1 models . i dismantled some x4d  and 5d s  . they are easy goin for cabbing . the chassis pcb isnt very big and its in one piece . all wires can be fast unplugged by connectors . no soldering skills reqired. all trinitron sonys require a rocksolid frame !

the 29 inch trinitron weights a ton and the depth might not fit into ur cabinet + i wont recommend lowres 29 inch for cabinet use. a 25 or 21 inch would be a wiser choice , for example a kv25/21 x4d or 5d . or a 50/60 hertz philips . philips uk produced lots of very good a59eak071x01 and a66eak071x01 tubes for many tv and arcade manufactures . u ll find em in metz , loewe , grundig , philips tvs and valvo or hantarex combo arcade monitors . guess the most manufactured eu tube and maybe one of the best .      

i d like to add : first find the perfect monitor and then build a cabinet around it should be the way to go . it looks like ure getting a problem with a 21 inch sony .. whats the maxdepth of ur cab in the monitor area from frontglass to the backsite ?

[mrazy1]

Think I would use a different lighter monitor(TV). There are many types out there. May have to make your own mounts for the tube and monitor board but atleast you should be able to fit it in that cab. Tubes are installed from the front. Great Job on the cab. I like the drink holders. LOL.

[stefanarak]

Yeah this one is 27 inch, it was the biggest size we were looking for. The TV does in theory fit inside the Cab, just. It would of course be a lot easier and lighter if it weren't in its case! So whilst it does just about fit, I was looking for information about decasing it. @Mrazy1: I'd be perfectly happy to make our own mounts for the tube and monitor board, have seen a few posts on this forum of people who have done that, and it seems simple enough.

The point remains, if I decase this TV so as to re-mount it, I now understand that there must be no metal protruding at all through the cab, as the metal is live. However, when the TV is off and unplugged, must I de-charge the tube if I am simply trying to re-mount the TV?

And thanks Mrazy, but what's wrong with the drink holders  ! I'm sure everyone likes a good beer when they're playing some retro games  .

[stefanarak]

Also when I am wanting to connect the TV to a PC will a simple VGA - Scart cable work or is that not the correct way to go about this?

[Jack Burton]

If it will "just" fit then that sounds like the direction you need to take.  

Decasing a tv is sort of an advanced thing in this hobby, and then you've got the added issue of it having a live chassis.  

You might have a look around and see if you can find a tv that is slightly smaller.  TV's were made that were called 24" tv's.  They really had a 24.8" tube just like you'd see in many arcade machines.  That's the same size of tube that would have been found in many upright cabinets like the one that you're building.  Like a Mortal Kombat cabinet for example:



These screen don't look small at all when you're playing on them.  

Maybe something like this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Philips-25PT4458-25-CRT-Television-/220905817477?pt=UK_AudioTVElectronics_Video_Televisions&hash=item336f034585

[mrazy1]

I like the The drink holders. Something every Arcade machine should have. LOL I don't drink beer but I like a place to put my coffee LOL. I think you should go with a 25" TV. with out a live chassis. But if you want to stick with what you got. I WOULD ALWAY DECHARGE A TUBE NO MATTER WHAT. and I would discharge it a couple of time even if you have already done it a few Min's ago as they will gain charge. Be safe discharge a tubes always even if they have been setting for a day or so. De-charge it before touching it. De-charge discharge De-charge. O did I say discharge your tube. yea I did discharge it OK??? LOL. GOD BLESS