Really bad overscan on my TV. Any ideas?

[likwidtek]

So, it's a 480i TV. It's connected to my PC via an nvidia 7900gtx using the component breakout adapter.

In Windows, in the nvidia control panel software, I'm able to create a custom resolution, however in Maximus arcade, as soon as I fire it up, it changes it from my custom res back to 640 x 480. I have not tested other front ends yet. Even with the custom resolution in the nvidia driver, I'm only able to shrink the display horizontally and vertically. I'm not able to to change the horizontal and vertical POSITION. So I'm still losing some viewable space. Regardless, that resolution is totally thrown out the window as soon as I fire up Maximus Arcade.

If I remember correctly ATI cards have much better overscan support, but I can't be sure. It really sucks because it's cutting off a good portion of the screen. It's making me ponder if I just need to pony up $500 for a 27inch arcade monitor or not.

[newmanfamilyvlogs]

Do it. the Makvision 27/29" is a great monitor for emulation. It's a 31khz but you can run custom modes of 2X the original resolutions and have pixel perfect classic games, and high-res (800x600) modern 3D emulators/games.
X-Arcade sells them for $470 with $70 shipping. You know you want it.

[likwidtek]

So... can you point me in the right direction of what to read so that this fully makes sense?

It's a 31khz but you can run custom modes of 2X the original resolutions and have pixel perfect classic games, and high-res (800x600) modern 3D emulators/games.

I understand newer games like being played at higher resolutions (800x600) but what do you mean by custom modes.  Also 31khz?  Is that how resolution is measured in Arcade Monitors?

[boardjunkie]

You need to get into the service menu and manually adjust the H and V size. There's usually a sequence of hey presses on the remote that gets into it. Get the service manual on that particular set to find out how to access it.

[likwidtek]

on a TV?  I thought there was no H/V adjusting on a standard TV

[spoot]

on a TV?  I thought there was no H/V adjusting on a standard TV

Quite often there is a "service menu" hidden by keypresses that's mentioned by above poster.  These are typically used by repair personal.

[likwidtek]

Hmmm, I'll look up the make and model of the TV.  Thanks so much.

[likwidtek]

Here are some pics of the inside. It looks like an Orion but they make tubes for lots of people right?  Here are some pics.

Also, in the pics below you can see 3 dials for focus and screen. Will those help?

Any help would be appreciated.

[boardjunkie]

No, Don't screw with those. You need to make the pix size via the service menu. That's the only way.....

[Well Fed Games]

No, Don't screw with those. You need to make the pix size via the service menu. That's the only way.....

Out of curiosity, do you say this because it could damage the TV, or because it is not the solution... because I have screwed with those knobs some, and hope I didn't hurt anything on the TV! 

[likwidtek]

Could someone help me figure out how to get into the service menu?

[newmanfamilyvlogs]

So... can you point me in the right direction of what to read so that this fully makes sense?

It's a 31khz but you can run custom modes of 2X the original resolutions and have pixel perfect classic games, and high-res (800x600) modern 3D emulators/games.

I understand newer games like being played at higher resolutions (800x600) but what do you mean by custom modes.  Also 31khz?  Is that how resolution is measured in Arcade Monitors?

Arcade games, the actual pixels generated by the PCB, had various resolutions all over the place. Arcade monitors called "Standard Resolution" (which is what most of them ran on) are called 15kHz monitors because that's the rate that the electron beam on the inside was being pulsed back and forth. You've got Vertical Sync which is the rate a complete frame is drawn (eg: 60Hz), and Horizontal Sync, the rate that a complete scan line is drawn (eg: 15kHz).

At higher resolution, you have to scan the beam faster across the screen in order to make it to the bottom in the same time period. For example at 320x240, I'm drawing 240 lines that are 320 pixels wide. If I double the resolution to 640x480, then I need to draw twice as many lines, so I've got to draw them twice as fast to do it at 60Hz.

Computer monitors, and the monitor I mentioned, are designed to run at that higher horizontal speed because they were not intended to display those lower resolutions. However, if we take those lower resolutions and double them, they suddenly fall into the range capable of being displayed. And since we're exactly doubling them, they appear visually identical (ie: on a 25" screen a 2x2 block of pixels at 320x240 will look exactly like a 4x4 block of pixels at 640x480).

Another benefit to going this route is the ability to run games that were higher resolution, but interlaced (such as the PSX based titles like Tekken), in a progressive format, thus getting rid of all flickering.

I gave a more complete explanation here:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=112869.0


As for your TV, the tube isn't what we need information on. What we'll need is the TV Make/Model itself, and possibly any identifying marks on the PCB (also called the 'deflection board').

[likwidtek]

cotmm68030, you are amazing.   Bookmarked.  Thanks dude.

In regards to the monitor, I contacted the guy who gave it to me.  He has no idea what brand or model the TV is.  Also, he nor I have the remote which might cause problems as some of the codes to get in the service menu require the remote.  :/  

I'm still hopeful though.  Here are some more images.    Specifically of the PCB.  I consolidated them all into an album:  http://imgur.com/a/QiVgf

If I can get this figured out, it'll save me a huge chunk of money.  

[newmanfamilyvlogs]

http://www.elbase.ru/app/webroot/files/tech_docs/%C1%FB%F2%EE%E2%E0%FF%20%FD%EB%E5%EA%F2%F0%EE%ED%E8%EA%E0%20(%F1%F5%E5%EC%FB%20%EE%EF%E8%F1%E0%ED%E8%FF%20%E8%ED%F1%F2%F0%F3%EA%F6%E8%E8)/%D2%E5%EB%E5%E2%E8%E7%EE%F0%FB/HISENSE/HISENSE%20TF2906D/H3498.doc

COLOR TV RECEIVER

MODEL NO. H3498
CHASSIS NO. CH-16

TEST & ALIGNMENT PROCEDURES

..... Press the SC button on the factory RC and .....

Looks like you need a factory-specific remote control to get into the service menu.

Good luck finding that

[likwidtek]

So the Factory RC isn't what was shipped with the TV, it means it's like a special remote just for service people?

[HaRuMaN]

So the Factory RC isn't what was shipped with the TV, it means it's like a special remote just for service people?

No, its the one that shipped with it.

[likwidtek]

I have a logitech harmony remote.  Is it possible to emulate it?

[boardjunkie]

I'd suggest moving those pots on the flyback *right* back to where there were. Use the red varnish as a guide.....just line it up. It appears they have dual focus controls which can be a ---smurfette--- to dial in if you don't know the procedure. The screen control determines overall brightness and was factory adjusted for optimum pix quality and tube life.

Don't just randomly adjust things if you have no idea what they do....it can possibly render the tv useless if you diddle the wrong one. Then its gotta be reset by someone who knows how to calibrate a tv.....IE repair shop.

[likwidtek]

I'd suggest moving those pots on the flyback *right* back to where there were. Use the red varnish as a guide.....just line it up. It appears they have dual focus controls which can be a ---smurfette--- to dial in if you don't know the procedure. The screen control determines overall brightness and was factory adjusted for optimum pix quality and tube life.

Don't just randomly adjust things if you have no idea what they do....it can possibly render the tv useless if you diddle the wrong one. Then its gotta be reset by someone who knows how to calibrate a tv.....IE repair shop.

Wait what?  I haven't adjusted anything.

[boardjunkie]

<<<"Out of curiosity, do you say this because it could damage the TV, or because it is not the solution... because I have screwed with those knobs some, and hope I didn't hurt anything on the TV!  "

Thats what you said in reference to the f-back controls.....

[likwidtek]

OH.  That wasn't me.

[Well Fed Games]

No, that was me. My tv had one that seemed to be focus, one that was some sort of brightness control. Couldn't help but play with them when I decased it. Seemed fine, I think I got a slightly better pic out of it. Was just curious what could go wrong....

I'd suggest moving those pots on the flyback *right* back to where there were. Use the red varnish as a guide.....just line it up. It appears they have dual focus controls which can be a ---smurfette--- to dial in if you don't know the procedure. The screen control determines overall brightness and was factory adjusted for optimum pix quality and tube life.

Don't just randomly adjust things if you have no idea what they do....it can possibly render the tv useless if you diddle the wrong one. Then its gotta be reset by someone who knows how to calibrate a tv.....IE repair shop.

Wait what?  I haven't adjusted anything.