First Build/Tools

[NSXVI]

Hello, I'm new to this forum and to the whole arcade building scene. I'm going to build a bartop while keeping costs to a minimum. I'm going to use 1/2in MDF for the cab and a 15in LCD monitor for the screen. The only power tool I currently own is a drill. At first I was going to try to build the entire thing with just a jig saw but after giving it some thought I decided I should get a router as well. I'm not sure which ones to get though. I need something that's cheap and will get the job done. I was thinking about these:
http://www.amazon.com/Skil-4495-01-Amp-Jig-Saw/dp/B00213L4YA/ref=sr_1_28?ie=UTF8&qid=1311378216&sr=8-28 - This one has a laser which would be useful for straight cuts.
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-JS660-Smart-Select/dp/B001JJD0Y4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1311378180&sr=8-2

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Power-Tools-Routers/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbaus/R-100485419/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RP250-4-Inch-Variable/dp/B000IEFIBO/ref=sr_1_20?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1311374657&sr=1-20
http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Reconditioned-Skil-1810-RT-120-Volt-Fixed-Base/dp/B000HAT0M2/ref=sr_1_25?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1311374684&sr=1-25

I was planning on using MDF for the control panel but since the screen is going to be at an angle there would be a gap. So I'm thinking of using steel sheet. Does anyone have any experience with it? (cutting, bending, etc.)
Any tips and insight will be greatly appreciated .

[jennifer]

      A tablesaw..... I"ts just the thing for keeping things square. Even the cheaper ones, Just be sure to get one with the base [or buy the base too] .

[drventure]

Table saw will work. But a skilsaw and a sawboard can cut a very accurate line (much more so than with a jigsaw) and it might be cheaper. (and I know a skilsaw takes up less space, if that's an issue).

Also, a good folding worktable is handy and won't take up tons of space. I love the Black and Decker Workmate I bought used years ago.

[NSXVI]

      A tablesaw..... I"ts just the thing for keeping things square. Even the cheaper ones, Just be sure to get one with the base [or buy the base too] .

I can't afford to buy one unfortunately.

Table saw will work. But a skilsaw and a sawboard can cut a very accurate line (much more so than with a jigsaw) and it might be cheaper. (and I know a skilsaw takes up less space, if that's an issue).

Also, a good folding worktable is handy and won't take up tons of space. I love the Black and Decker Workmate I bought used years ago.

Like these?:
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-Firestorm-FS18CS-Cordless/dp/B000RKCSRQ/ref=sr_1_16?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1311384986&sr=1-16
http://www.amazon.com/Skil-5480-01-Amp-4-Inch-Circular/dp/B000P9H4VO/ref=sr_1_6?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1311384986&sr=1-6

Is it that hard to get a straight line with a jig saw? I need to buy a jig saw for the curved cuts, so I don't want to buy another tool if it can be done with the jig saw, but I also don't want to mess things up if it's too difficult to do.

[drventure]

Well, if you buy a good jigsaw and make up a sawboard to let you push it in a straight line, it +might+ work, but for straight cuts, a circular saw or table saw will be way easier, quicker and cleaner. The main prob with a jigsaw is that for cuts deeper than 1/4 in or so, you often can get blade tilt (because the blade can bend as it's cutting) and the cut will end up at a slight angle.

Have you checked Craigslist or pawnshops in your area? You can almost always find pretty good deals on those types of tools. Also, check ebay in the tools area.

[BobA]

The router used with a straight edge can do some nice cuts as well.   You could replace the circular saw if you are really tight on cash.

[NSXVI]

Ok, I've decided to buy all three tools. A jig saw, a router, and a circular saw. Can someone help me pick the best from the links I posted? Or recommend another around the same price range ($50-65).

[Donkbaca]

I don't think you really need a jigsaw, I hardly used mine and could have done without it, what I would recommend instead is a sander

[drventure]

I don't think you really need a jigsaw

+1. I've used mine but not all that often.

I picked up a porter cable router off Craigslist for 40$ that's been fantastic. A set of bits off the internet was about 30$. You can get really expensive bits, and if you plan on doing a lot of routing, you might consider it, but for doing just a few minor projects, the lower end bits have worked well for me.

I have a cordless ryobi skill saw, but the battery life sucks on it. I've got an ancient Craftman skill saw that is more than adequate and you can usually find those on CL or pawnshops for pretty cheap (<50$ in any case).

[NSXVI]

I don't think you really need a jigsaw, I hardly used mine and could have done without it, what I would recommend instead is a sander

My side panels have curves though. And I found a Makita hand sander in my basement that I got a while back from a yard sale.
Like this one but it doesn't have the red bag:

[compute]

If you need to save money, don't be afraid to hit the pawn store or rummage sales.  I picked up a decent (not new, but still works well) circular saw for like $15, palm sander for $15 never used, and jig saws are a dime a dozen at the local shop.

[NSXVI]

I went to Home Depot today and bought the Ryobi Router. There were many very expensive router bits and I didn't know which to choose. Which do I need for the T-molding slots and which for straight cuts? I'm going to practice straight cuts with the router first just in case I don't need to buy the circular saw.

[Donkbaca]

You need a circ saw, routers aren't meant to be used to make straight cuts through wood, they are supposed to be used to shape the edges of wood.  I would use the router to say, cut out the opening for your coin door, I wouldn't use it to cut out the sides of the cab though...

[Vigo]

You know, these days I am pretty spoiled with a nice library of power tools. Back when I was in college, I was able to do just about everything with a jigsaw, drill and sander for my power tools. I borrowed a router for t-moulding, but that is it. You can make do in a pinch.

Any time I needed to cut a really straight edge, I clamped on a straight plank as a guide and butted my jigsaw against the guide. You can do a lot with only a little if you want to get creative. If I needed to cut out an interior, I just drilled a hole in the wood and popped in my jigsaw. If you don't see a need for the tools in the future, save yourself the money and just buy a used jigsaw. A jigsaw is the best versatile saw you can get if you plan on cutting anything curved. You just have to take things slowly and carefully.

[compute]

You need a circ saw, routers aren't meant to be used to make straight cuts through wood, they are supposed to be used to shape the edges of wood.  I would use the router to say, cut out the opening for your coin door, I wouldn't use it to cut out the sides of the cab though...

Seconded.  I burned up a straight router bit trying to trim 1/4" off the floor boards of my attic to get the door closed.  Cutting out panels with a router sounds ridiculous to me, so I'd say go for which ever of the circular/jig saw set instead of a router if I had to pick.

[Woodshop Flunky]

I'll throw my two cents in...

I understand how a decent tablesaw can be a budget buster.  Even on a budget though, the two things I could not live without is a circular saw, and a router.  If you have the money, then I would add a jigsaw also.  But basically you can build any standard type cabinet with a circular saw and a router.

The advise folks have given about pawn shops is good... look around.

If you want to buy new, I wouldn't go high end, but I would spend a little more on the router... http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-690LR-Amp-Fixed-Base-Router/dp/B00005QEVQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1311772756&sr=1-1

You can do fine work with a simple circular saw, if buying new something like this would work fine. http://www.amazon.com/Skil-5680-01-4-Inch-Circular-Laser/dp/B0019RTAHW/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1311773618&sr=1-1  You can make a sawboard and get some very nice, repeatable straight cuts. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=43568.msg1165380#msg1165380


Don't be swayed to buy something because it has a laser.  Tool makers are going to be putting lasers on hammers just as soon as some dink decides it will help sales.  Lasers are mostly useless.  The one on my chop saw is nice, but it has a 2D fixed blade movement, and the wood is held stationary.  Any tool that is going to be moved by hand makes a laser useless.  IMHO

Get a cheap set of folding saw horses, and cut the last 2 1/2 feet off a sheet of plywood.  then you will have a decent 4ftx2.5ft work table.

I won't even discuss clamps... you'll discover the need for those soon.

[Vigo]

A couple thoughts, the OP did mention that the cabinet sides he was going to make were curved. If this is more than simply a rounded corner, then a jigsaw is a necessity. And I still believe that a jigsaw can replace a circular saw for those on a really tight budget, but work will be more tedious. Just be sure not to use the standard "jig" blades, but buy fatter cutting blades that will not bend so easily.

Also, since I do use my router for more than just arcade cabinets, I went with a plunge router. I am very glad I did as the plunge base has come in handy many times. http://www.amazon.com/Skil-1820-Plunge-Router-Light/dp/B0000C6DXZ/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1311775031&sr=1-2
Fixed base routers are perfectly fine for arcade cabinet building though.

[Woodshop Flunky]

A couple thoughts, the OP did mention that the cabinet sides he was going to make were curved. If this is more than simply a rounded corner, then a jigsaw is a necessity.

I did all the curves on my build using my router.  But I see your point.  Especially for someone new to woodworking, a jigsaw and a sanding block will make the curves much easier.

And I still believe that a jigsaw can replace a circular saw for those on a really tight budget, but work will be more tedious.

I think you're right.  If you use the jigsaw to cut an edge slightly oversized, then you can use your router and a straight edge to clean it up.  It would take longer, but the results would be good.

[Rando]

I don't think you really need a jigsaw, I hardly used mine and could have done without it, what I would recommend instead is a sander

My side panels have curves though. And I found a Makita hand sander in my basement that I got a while back from a yard sale.
Like this one but it doesn't have the red bag:

I think I have this exact sander WITH the red bag.  You're not missing anything, bag is always empty post sanding. 

[The Lumberjackass]

my 2 cents :

1) buy a router, it doesnt make a difference what brand or model provided you buy it locally. do not buy it online. any faults or defects with it will cost you time should anything have to be sent back for a refund or repair. and when i say any router, i mean any router. all you will be doing is light work, so price range from 30 euro to 60 euro will do.

2) buy a jigsaw. and i mean a proper one. get one with a good thick metal base. all jigsaws that are cheap are only good for a months work. the reason why is because the front of the base bends over time with use. so if you buy cheap, it wont last long. buy a good heavy duty jiggy, and you'll be set up for years. i have a good hitachi and the base on it is 6mm thick. all cheap jiggys have a 1.5 to 2mm thick base, and they are worthless. its not about the motor contained within a jigsaw, its about how well the machine blade cuts through materials while it maintains a 90 degree angle to the base of the jiggy.

3) buy yourself a good quality roofing square. its a one piece aluminium tool that is triangle shaped. do not buy a carpenters square, which looks like a large " L " shape. they can be off by as much as 1 degree from the factory, so only buy the roofing square as its a one piece design, and the angles are 100% accurate.

finally, never use a jigsaw on a edge that you evetually intend to butt join to another piece of timber.
jigsaws are not, and i mean NOT intended to cut straight lines. they are for cutting shapes and circles. only a router or circular saw should be used to cut a straight line.
as a tip, pre-cut all shapes / circles on spare mdf and then use them as templates on the good sheet material.
look at my arcade cab videos in this section. you'll see what i mean. its titled " woodworking 101 ".

[Ond]

my 2 cents :

1) buy a router, it doesnt make a difference what brand or model provided you buy it locally. do not buy it online. any faults or defects with it will cost you time should anything have to be sent back for a refund or repair. and when i say any router, i mean any router. all you will be doing is light work, so price range from 30 euro to 60 euro will do.

2) buy a jigsaw. and i mean a proper one. get one with a good thick metal base. all jigsaws that are cheap are only good for a months work. the reason why is because the front of the base bends over time with use. so if you buy cheap, it wont last long. buy a good heavy duty jiggy, and you'll be set up for years. i have a good hitachi and the base on it is 6mm thick. all cheap jiggys have a 1.5 to 2mm thick base, and they are worthless. its not about the motor contained within a jigsaw, its about how well the machine blade cuts through materials while it maintains a 90 degree angle to the base of the jiggy.

3) buy yourself a good quality roofing square. its a one piece aluminium tool that is triangle shaped. do not buy a carpenters square, which looks like a large " L " shape. they can be off by as much as 1 degree from the factory, so only buy the roofing square as its a one piece design, and the angles are 100% accurate.

finally, never use a jigsaw on a edge that you evetually intend to butt join to another piece of timber.
jigsaws are not, and i mean NOT intended to cut straight lines. they are for cutting shapes and circles. only a router or circular saw should be used to cut a straight line.
as a tip, pre-cut all shapes / circles on spare mdf and then use them as templates on the good sheet material.
look at my arcade cab videos in this section. you'll see what i mean. its titled " woodworking 101 ".

+1 Good advice

[Wildfire]

I'm about to start my first cab still working on the design and did a starter project to get a  handle on what i need power tool wise

I have a drill, sander, jugsaw and circularsaw and a dremel

now i was building a cubby system for my kids 3 squares by 3 squares now working with wood no matter what you a are building you will learn something half way in to this i went out and got myself a belt sander because my normal sander was not doing the job i needed also i was trying to freehand everthing i did OK with the longer boards with the circularesaw but when i went to the smaller strips i was making for braces things broke down do not try to make a lot of the same thing free hand even with lines to help you. i ended up bracing them togher and using the beltsander to even them out and did a good job  making them close so the belt sander was used alot more i would get one.  now i used the dremel as a drill and he drill as a power scrue driver would drill a little hole in my wood with a small bit then use the drill for the scrues now this thing is about done and it is vary stable. i can grab any part of it and pick it up off the ground what I'm about to do is lay it on its back and use the belt sander again to level off all the  crossing and make it nice and smooth  after everthing is said and done i could of gone with out the normal sander and the  jigsaw maybe vary wavy cuts  and the circularsaw did evething it needed to  but my most used tool was the belt sander.

after thought a table saw would of made a lot of my smaller  boards much essayer looking in to getting one soon. doing this without a shattered ankle in a brace would of made this a little essayer also but i think I'm the only one here with that problem but that may of helped the wavy cuts i had.

if your just looking for some lowcost items wallmart had some sells  at $25

[jimfath]

This should be a sticky... I've referred to it 3 times now as I scour about for tools and seek advice.

What about drills? I'm assuming that you'll need a varible speed ELECTRIC drill and not a battery powered one? I have a low end B&D that I just use around the house. I doubt it has the speed for say using a hole saw bit or speedbors/Spade bits.

[EvilNuff]

Forstner bits and hole saws are going to drain a cordless pretty fast.  Spade bits you can get by with a cordless for the most part.  You'll want to go slow anyways as you want your holes to be 90o so assuming you don't have a drill press you can get a guide for a drill or just stand up a square to eye ball it.

[Generic Eric]

About hole saws in plywood:
The glue gummed up the teeth on my hole saw.  Ended up using the spade bits.

If you want to have a wooden speaker grill, a router is real handy for that.

I'll third the advise on a square.  Also, you may benefit from one of those angle finding things the sell next to the squares.  I'll take a pic to show what I mean since I can't think of the name.

Not a tool so much, but a lesson learned by a woodworking noob.  Some wood filler can be stained, but not all wood fillers can be stained. 

[Donkbaca]

I used a cordless drill, and a forstner bits.  No problem.  My drill has levels on it so it was easy to get the holes 90 degrees.  Plus, its not like you are drilling a super deep hole, it doesn't have to be that perfect.  I had no problems with the forstner bits draining my drill

[jimfath]

Good to know.

I did some test drilling and found that my cordless B&D is CHEAP and didn't stand up to cutting some test holes with my hole saw. It made about 50 holes in some scrap and the fully charged battery ate it after a while. Slowed down and lost torq. A replacement battery cost just as much as a new one so I hit up a pawn shop and found a reversible, variable speed mikata.

Per getting a new sander for a first build, should I get a random orbiting or just a standard vibrating? Also, I understand a belt sander would be good if you're pulling off old side art, laminate, or enamel. Would one hand sander work for just smoothing out rough plywood or would an orbital tackle that as well. 

[Donkbaca]

Get a random orbital.  You are going to have to sand at some point.  Sanding just sucks.

[Vulgar Soul]

Hey now! Who said a router can't do straight cuts!?

I'm nearly done with my first arcade build and I only used a jigsaw and router. never touched my circular saw (which I really should learn how to use).

For curves I rough cut with a jig saw and sanded to the line. For straight cuts, I rough cut with the jigsaw then clamped down a very wide straight edge plus a router and flush trim bit to trim down to the straight edge. As long as I was careful to make sure my straight edge was properly aligned, all my cuts came out nice, straight, and square. A router with a flush trimming bit and a straight edge can def do precise, straight cuts, probably even better then my sloppy circular saw skills can do.