multi jamma switcher options for light gun setup

[runawayabc123]

[Edit]This thread has turned into build my own custom multi-switcher setup for light guns and players 3/4.  Read on for details.[/Edit]

I have several light gun games that I want to be able to switch between.  

I kind of have two choices, buy a switcher and abuse the jamma harness for my means OR build my own.  

Thinking about the building, I would just need several diodes and 3 relays per board (12/5/-5v power) with a master dial to control which one is on.  The problem is, I haven't been able to find the voltage/amp specs on a jamma harness to fully design such a switcher.  I think most stuff is all 5v, but where does the 12v go?  (Relative to the other pins on the board, of the other 55 pins, which is also 12v?  Same for -5v for sound?)

Thanks.  

[BobA]

See this site for info on multi jamma power requirements.

Jamma Multigames

[runawayabc123]

I didn't mean the incoming voltage, I meant the outgoing voltage on the jamma harness.  (Powering buttons, video, etc)  This is to correctly size diodes/transistors/relays.  Based on your link and it all running on a 40 pin IDE cable, I would imagine all are 5v with very little current. 

Thanks for the link, it was a great read.  I would totally buy/use that switcher, if it supported light gun games.  It has 4 extra wires for jamma+ custom use, but I would need 8 (6+2grounds) wires or only one light gun.  Infact, I don't even know if I could use his wired ground, and if he has diodes to protect the other games, I couldn't put a ground on one of his 4 pins for custom use.  So, that whole custom part is a maybe for light guns with a max of 1 gun.   

I still think I am stuck doing it all on my own.  I also don't want to power all of the boards when I turn it own.  But, for a canned solution, I won't be choosey. 

Lastly: if anyone has this board: http://www.jammaboards.com/store/6-in-1-multijamma-switcher-pcb/prod_250.html and could tell me what diodes are on it and if those are 2 tranistors or relays per board and what they are, I would be very greatful. 

[runawayabc123]

So, I am not attracting a whole lot of replies with this thread.  Any want to post their 2 cents on why?  Too long of a post?  Confusing?  I am doing something off of the deep end and everyone is staying far away?  Thanks. 

[BobA]

Not sure what you are looking for re outgoing power.  As long as you have a supply that can provide enough power you will be fine. The size of the wires in a jamma harness will support anything you provide.   As for the multi jamma switcher the stock that jammaboards seems to have is nil or discontinued on most items if you check their store.  Cannot say how well that unit works or if you can get one.

If you want to add light guns to your switcher they would have to be the same one for all boards in order to switch them.  I would switch with a relay to make sure the of isolation.  This relay could be switched by the power on the jamma board that you select.

Regarding diodes.  Most signal lines (buttons) are switched with signal diodes which are cheap an low current.  Cannot think of the number off hand but they are very common and very small.   Power on the other hand is usually switched with relays looking at the multi boards that I have seen.

Hope that helps a bit.

Found the number 1N4148 Diode

[BobA]

Just a bit to add.  When a jamma switcher requres the board to have constant power it is usually to decrease the cost of the board but it has the added benefit that the board is powered when your cab is powered so you can switch without the board having to go thru its startup diagnostics and calibration sequence.   Instant switching from game to game.

[runawayabc123]

For outgoing power... I should have asked how much power can a micro switch run as the diodes won't have to protect anything higer than that.  I guess I also don't know how sensitive the micro switches/boards reading the signals are. 

I guess the two "power" questions I have is what current do the micro switches (buttons/joystick) and video signals run on?  (As these are the wires that will have diodes in place to protect current from flowing to them when they are "off", think wrong direction)  None of this is on the power supply leads.  I think I am asking about all of the wires that everyone just hooks up, whereas everyone worries about power voltages matching on the power leads. 

Looking up 1N4148, it works to 100V (good there) but 200mA continuous load or 450mA reptitive peak load.  So, in the jamma harness spec for a micro switch that is connected, I am guessing it never exceeds these numbers? 

The relays are easy: 5V/15A, 12V/2.5A and -5V/1A as I match them to my power supply.  (But, I will still take suggestions if things are more complicated than I have from the current information.)  Actually the -5V/1A is a whole different question, but I digress. 

I just have to find some blank circuit boards to serve my madness that won't end up being the size of my desk all said and done. 

Thanks for your helpful post.  This will be an interesting project. 

[BobA]

The micro switches pass very little current when used in a CP.  The signal diodes will easily handle their load and the wire can be about as thin as you want since no significant current is passing thru them.   Good luck on your project 

[runawayabc123]

As an update, I purchased some relays and diodes.  I have enough for a 2 way switcher.  I am planing on 12.     Proof of concet time

Anyway, I need a way to bring 12 (6 or whatever) wires together easily.  Ideas?  I have some circuit boards from radio shack (pre-made with copper lines) to do some of this... but maybe someone would have a better idea? 

Which goes hand in hand with this question: anyone have a good way to go from 3/16 female quick disconnets on the jamma harness to my circuit board of diodes without chopping the harness?  (Maybe some sort of quick disconnet barrier terminal?) 

[runawayabc123]

Update time!  (Some of you may have noticed my other thread asking about bus wire vs a circuit write pen.) 

The plan:
A harness to switch between 12 PCBs.  12 was picked because I needed a switch that could handle the DC coil on a relay big enough to power the PCBs.  I found a 12 position one!  (It is ordered and in the mail.  I hope it works!) 

POWER:
I have a couple 4 pole relays double throw relays (4PDT), I only need single throw with normally off (NO).  I have tested this and it is working.  (I have been a bad boy and didn't put the relief diode on the coil, but oh well.  It will be on the final wiring.) 

PLAYERS 1,2 OTHER WIRES
I have tested a couple buttons with diodes and they still work (as you might notice all of the diodes on the 6in1 switcher board).  Please note, that multi jamma options that always power all of the boards don't need diodes, because they won't get ghost grounding on boards that aren't turned on, because they are all on.  (note: I plan to support all buttons/wires except coin counter, lockout coil and slam/tilt)  This has me diode protecting the 26 other signal switch/button wires. 

LIGHT GUNS (The cause for it all!)
I have tested a light gun with diodes on all wires except for the ground.  That works too!  (It was a short test, but most of this has been short tests.)  I have 4 wire light guns.  3 diodes, 1 ground

VIDEO
I have poked at video.  I plan to relay switch RBG and Sync (not ground).  In testing and being mean to my video card, I have found that only the Sync wire will cause video distortions if directly conected to a board that is turned off.  After carefully studying high res (and some not so high res) pictures of the 6in1, it looks like the ground of 5 ICs are for controlling RBG, Sync and relays.  So, I will relay all video lines.  I will do more testing when I get these smaller relays. 

SOUND
On the 6in1, the two big relays handle 5v,12v,speaker ground.  So, I will also put speakers on relays.  I plan to relay both positive and ground.  (I got many of the same smaller DPDT relays, so both is easy at this point.) 

JAMMA+ (PLAYERS 3 AND 4)
Jamma+ (players 3 and 4) will be handles similar to players 1 and 2, but another board with diodes to protect from ghost grounds.  Since I have TMNT and The Simpsons (plus others), I am going with the Konami kick harness standard (6 buttons, 4 joystick, 1 ground).  Coin, B1, B2, Joy1, Joy2, Joy3, Joy4, B3, Start, Service and Ground.  I should be able to support any games with 6 buttons of options!

The first part I will complete is the light gun circuit board.  It has lots of space for me to get good at soldering!  (I also have a practice board.) 

I did some rough math and I will have 1000s of feet of wire here!  Yay.  Around 2500 points to solder and around 1000 diodes required. 

Suggestions are always welcome.  Feel free to point out my flaws now!  (It might same me time and money!) 

[runawayabc123]

Video proof of concept complete!  I have small 1A relays (5v coil) that turn on and off video.  RGB Video Sync are on the relays.  Ground to ground. 

Sound proff of concept complete!  Same small 1A relay (5v coil) turns on and off sound (both +/- since they are dual pole relays). 

The only proof of concept that I didn't do was test out my 12 pole switch, but I don't care about that.  If I have to get 12 switches, I will.   

I will be off to the races wiring up all of the power relays and soldering together my 4 PCB boards (light gun, players 3/4, video and sound controlling PCBs). 

I have 1/2 mile of wire (mostly in 22ga, but some in 18ga and 16ga). 

To handle the voltage drop problem with power hungry boards, the 16ga wire and maybe a second high amp power relay will be applied.  (That really only is for area 51 and maybe locked'n loaded.)  I have several non-power hungry boards to test inbetween. 

Wish me luck!  (This part may take awhile.) 

[runawayabc123]

Today we have POWER!

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/1407/01firsttestisgood.jpg
http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/9210/02startup.jpg
http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/20/03startupalternate.jpg
http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/2549/04neg5visin.jpg
http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/5034/0512vstarted.jpg
http://img542.imageshack.us/img542/7351/0612vdone.jpg
http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/9744/07pos5valmostdone.jpg
http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/9231/08groundadded.jpg
http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/9062/09donefor12relays.jpg
http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/4101/10bounsrelaysforextraam.jpg
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/761/11powercomplete.jpg

All of the Green/Yellow wire is 18awg. 
Green is -5v
Yellow is 12v (one red 18AWG wire is yellow zip ties is 12v cause I ran out of yellow at the time, it is bundled with yellow wires, so very little of it can be seen)

All Red/Black wires are 16awg (except for that one red wire talked about above, but count it "yellow")
I picked 16awg because I got some for .025/ft. 

I have 1 green wire for -5v to all
I have 2 yellow wires for 12v to all
I have 4 red wires for 5v to all
I have 4 black wires for ground to all

The reasons for the over wiring it is to combat voltage drop for high amp games (like area 51 site 4)

The 6 and 8 barrier strip terminals that are half full are for the 12 position switch that isn't wired in.  The main power relays (1 is plugged into a socket) all run on 12v.  They handle 8Amps per pole, 4 poles each.  5v is double wired for 16Amps total.  In test, I had a voltage drop problem through 1 relay, so #13 and #14 on the end are to add extra space to combat voltage drop (6 poles should do it!). 

1 slot on the ground and 12v barrier strips are still open for the video converter card (mine runs on 12v) and if you have this in a cab, you can just leave that part out.  Notice this is BEFORE the relays as you don't want the card going on/off.  Just the games. 

The only thing that still needs to be wired in is the 5v relays to the video/sound boards (they don't exist) on the PCB side of the sockets. 

Lastly, if I were to do this part again, I would want a wider board and move the ground to the bottom side as it wasn't really needed on top. 

Ask questions/point out flaws! 

Yes, I have spent way too much time on this and I am maybe 20% done. 

[runawayabc123]

Just a quick update.  The 12 position switch is all wired in and works!  So, now I have a really expensive 14LED flashing board.  

Desoldering is a pain and adding wires onto a jamma harness is a pain too.  (Mostly because I am adding 4 16awg wires, which I don't think they were meant to contend with.)  

Edit... where do you buy new jamma connection contacts? 

[runawayabc123]

I'm not feeling much interest in this project on these forums... but here is another update:

This is a final picture of the power... if you look real close you can see 2 LEDs light up (primary relay and support for extra 5v AMPs)
http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/2746/12completewith12posswit.jpg

Here is an "up wired" jamma harness.  It is intended for 1 of the 2 spots that I have two relays for for extra 5v power.  4-16AWG wires.  It should keep the voltage drop to about .1v on 10AMPs for games like area 51 site 4.  I didn't heat shrink the wraps yet. 
http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/1678/13upwiredjamma416awg5v.jpg
http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/6687/14upwiredjamma416awg5v.jpg

The big part of the post, wiring up 6 light gun boards to 1 set of guns!  Everything except for ground is isolated with diodes.  I did some practice soldering in the middle, so ignore that junk.  This is really a proof of concept board as I plan to do it again, but for 12 light gun PCBs to 1 set of guns.  (Or, the two together down the road lets me have 17 light gun boards.)
http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/5681/15lightgun6to1.jpg
http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/7233/16lightgun6to1.jpg
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/8633/17lightgun6to1.jpg
http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/1740/18lightgun6to1.jpg

Feel free to tell me how bad my soldering is... but only if you give me advice on how to do it better!   

Enjoy!

[runawayabc123]

Today's update is you win one, you lose one.  

Turns out the Light gun board has some problems with voltage drop that I found on further testing.  That wire didn't look like 22AWG.    Trigger works, but no hit detection.  Screen does flash.  I'll have to circle back to that problem.  

Good news is video is up and running!  

Edit: I should note that I am using dual pole relays (2 switches turned on) and 2 realys for each video line.  The video traces and relays are mirrored (that is why the red/black cross overs) and the two sides of the board are mirrored too.  Which is why the connectors top side stay the same.  The traces are connected to Normally Open sides of the relays. 

This picture is the rough plan on the right and parts on the left. I am using IC sockets for all of the relays.  
http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/4748/19videoplanonright.jpg

This is a close up of the plan.  Not all parts are present.  
http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/5298/20videoplancloseup.jpg

This is when all of the traces for video (RGB Gnd and Sync) are complete.  
http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/7231/21videotracecomplete.jpg

This is when the power for the relays is complete.  
http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/8681/22videorelaypowercomple.jpg

This is the bottom side of the power.  You can see what is where a little better.  
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/8936/23videorepalypowerbotto.jpg

This is with the ground wire for all of the relays is complete AND the ground wire for Video.  
http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/3677/24videorelaygroundandco.jpg

This is the bottom side and you can see all of the grounds.  Note, Video ground is NOT the same as Relay ground.  In the end they go to the same place, for here they don't.  
http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/579/25videorelaygroundandco.jpg

This is the fully completed version.  Not much has changed top side other than a new connector for video out.  
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/4391/26videoallcomplete.jpg

This is the bottom side of the completed video.  Lots going on now!  
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/5458/27videoallcompletebotto.jpg

This is the board with relays populated in all of the sockets.  
http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/7281/28videowithrelaysinsert.jpg

This is tested working for picture and light gun hits (which detected/worked).  I didn't test all of them yet.  

Next up is sound.  I am doing an identical board for sound.  I need 4 poles of switches, so the extra work is only ground and 5 pin over 4 pin connectors.  I figure a duplicate is easy.  ALso, I put groun on pin 2 so if I had too, light guns could also work on the board.  (Pin 5 would be reload.)  

The identical sound board is maybe 75% done.  

After sound is done, I will so some more testing.  

The List:
1)Sound
2)Light gun voltage drop fix
3)Players 3/4 board (like light gun board, wires pretested for voltage drop and work!)
4)Jamma harnesses coming in to 1.  12 of them.  (That is what all of the extra red diodes are for in the first picture of this post.)  

[runawayabc123]

Found a fix for #2.  I tried the light guns through the relays, same wire and they work.  So, the diode option doesn't work.  Maybe they don't switch fast enough or maybe it just isn't really compatiable. 

That just added another 30 hours of work.  But it is fixed. 

Pretty much everything if proofed now, I just have to get it done. 

[runawayabc123]

As an update, I have a second relay board done for audio. 

I have all of the parts (less the relays) for 4 more relay boards which are now all started.  (I'm just cranking them out on a step by step process now.)  I will still need two more after that, but I am short a few parts. 

As for an update, I think I will make a "cheaper/faster/easier" diode board for the light guns main jamma harness.  I think I only need player 1/2 start, player 1/2 coin, test and service.  6 buttons total.  I'll do them to quick disconnects instead of solding onto the jamma harness as planned.  I'll still do that (later) as I have a few normal 2/4 player joystick games.  Thinking about doing two different riggs now.    More expensive. 

[runawayabc123]

I got bored of the bigger relay boards after getting 2 more half done and two more start (4 more total) and changed over to create/finish the player 1 start/coin, player 2 start/coin and test/service buttons board for the light gun switch.  In between I got another light gun PCB and I had space on the board, so I soldered in 18 leads instead of the planned 12 (it has room for 24).  It will also help out if a diode burns out or a wire shorts or has a break in it, I will have extras to quick swap too.  I still need to "quality" control this board.  I am going to hook it up to a controller for player 2 to make sure it works real nice before I go to more trouble to make 2 more bigger versions of this board for games like TMNT, Simpons, etc and a full jamma harness.  I may slack off and only do 6 jamma harness instead of 12.  Or may count out all of my games plus one extra.  On to the pictures!

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/1869/29lightgunbuttonboard.jpg

http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/5174/30lightgunbuttonboardbo.jpg

The male 3/16 connectors I got from jameco REALLY sucked.  The crimps all went really nice, but it turned out the plastic neck was all that held the wire and after a little soldering heat the crimp failure rate was HIGH.  I soldered all of them in place so they couldn't move.  I never had this problem with the radio shack ones.  So, I will go with those instead when this batch of 200 run out.  The radio shack ones are cheaper considering you get the female quick disconnects, I just don't really need the female ones.  Oh well. 

P.S. if this works and once I get two more relay boards done, I can do a full blown test!!!

[runawayabc123]

I tested the diode board on player 2 for the joystick and buttons attack/jump for captain america and the avengers.  Worked great.  I wanted to test a good long joystick motion and only got a few seconds (maybe 5 max) here and there.  I'm happy with it. 

Renewed engery to finish those next two relay boards.  (Boards 3 and 4)

At that point I will have power, audio, video, light gun 1, light gun 2 and buttons for player 1+2 coin/start + service/test to 12 PCBs.  (I have plans for relay extension boards to get those to 18 too.  18 will be driven by having 18 light gun PCBs that work with my setup and I want to play all of the time.) 

However, I have a Zombie Raid PCB (XY gun game) competing for attention.   

More to come as this prototype comes alive. 

[Vimstar]

Just wanted to say "Great Thread"!  I stumbled on your post last summer when I was researching info on building my own JAMA arcade switcher.  I am actually planning on doing something similar to what you are doing and I am finally about to have the time to actually do it.    

Currently I am looking at switching between 12 total boards in one 4 Player cabinet.  Many of the boards I have are 4 player and use two to three buttons.  I also have a couple two player games I plan on adding to the system and will attempt to have the controls for these games route to the center two joysticks (normally players 2 and 3).  I also plan to do some cross wiring for some of the 4 player games (like X-MEN) and have the coin insert switch actually route to the 1-4 player start buttons (since X-men doesn't use a start button and selects players based on which coin slot you put your quarter in).

To top all this off I am also considering using lighted buttons and joysticks to help indicate which sticks and buttons are used with which games.  When a games is selected, the buttons and joystick used with that game will light up, with all other being off.  This will most likely require a second power supply of some sort along with a ton of additional relays.

Not sure how feasible all this will be to accomplish (lots of diodes, relays, connectors, etc.) but I look forward to thoroughly reading through all your posts in this thread and sharing anything I learn along the way. 

[runawayabc123]

Just wanted to say "Great Thread"!  I stumbled on your post last summer when I was researching info on building my own JAMA arcade switcher.  I am actually planning on doing something similar to what you are doing and I am finally about to have the time to actually do it.    

Currently I am looking at switching between 12 total boards in one 4 Player cabinet.  Many of the boards I have are 4 player and use two to three buttons.  I also have a couple two player games I plan on adding to the system and will attempt to have the controls for these games route to the center two joysticks (normally players 2 and 3).  I also plan to do some cross wiring for some of the 4 player games (like X-MEN) and have the coin insert switch actually route to the 1-4 player start buttons (since X-men doesn't use a start button and selects players based on which coin slot you put your quarter in).

To top all this off I am also considering using lighted buttons and joysticks to help indicate which sticks and buttons are used with which games.  When a games is selected, the buttons and joystick used with that game will light up, with all other being off.  This will most likely require a second power supply of some sort along with a ton of additional relays.

Not sure how feasible all this will be to accomplish (lots of diodes, relays, connectors, etc.) but I look forward to thoroughly reading through all your posts in this thread and sharing anything I learn along the way. 

Voltgage drop and diodes that can't carry enough current (or encourage the voltage drop) are your opposition.  Almost all of my 5v and ground wires are becoming 2-16awg wire to help (which I found CHEAP).  As for button signals and LED lights, those shouldn't be too bad,  just a mess of wires to get it all working.  Since buying 12 of anything gets expensive, I strongly suggest you test/proof of concept everything you want to do first. 

When you get ready to do this, if you want to use the same relays/diodes, let me know and I can post part numbers, but the relays (big power boxes) are $7 each plus $3 for the socket.  But I really wanted socketed relays for fear of burning them out or them getting stuck as I have some high AMP drwaing PCBs.  The little relays are $1.15 each plus .40 for the socket (I got the beryllium copper ones).

[GaryMcT]

I dig this thread.  I've been contemplating trying a similar project at some point!

[runawayabc123]

http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/7195/324lightgunboardsbottom.jpg
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/893/334lightgunboardslabled.jpg

So, I finally got 4 boards done! 

1 for video
1 for sound
2 for light guns

Now I just need to get a few cables together and a few jamma harness to hook in. 

I'm getting close. 

[runawayabc123]

I did an initial test tonight with 4 boards.  It was mostly a success.   

All 4 boards worked.  Video, audio and guns all worked. 

I just had a minor glitch where 2 boards stayed on at the same time. 

I have a video, but it is kind of lame as I could only get like 30seconds before running out of memory.  I'll upload pictures in my next post.  More details to come

[runawayabc123]

I have found the flaw and I am working to fix it.  I have 3 different plans and have to do some cost figuring. 

Long story short, a relay's single pole can't run a game AND turn On another relay with relief diodes on the coil.  (And removing the relief diode isn't a good idea.)  The problem is that a just On game will pull power from ground back through the relay board's 5v wire to power the game.  This only is the easiest path to ground when it already was On.  From a cold state, this won't happen. 

[runawayabc123]

Success! 

I switched to all 12v relays and they are all isolated together in front of the 12 position switch.  No ghost boards are on anymore. 

Fully functional to up to 12 boards for light gun games. 

Now I just need a cab to put it in! 

Time to box this bad boy up and start on the 4 player version. 

[runawayabc123]

I got a bunch of wires trimmed and crimped for the diode boards (like 500+).  It has been too hot this summer for soldering. 

[Chuibacca]

I too, thank you for this post.
I acquired an in-op Lethal Enforcers cabinet.
I'm getting parts working again, and have dreamed up a multi-cabinet for guns.
Please continue to update.
Thanks

[runawayabc123]

Sorry for the lack of updates... recent move has ground progress to a hault.  I'm also still trying to find the right light gun cab to put this in. 

[runawayabc123]

Good news!  I finally found a cab that will work!  I think it is a converted virtua fighter to area 51 cab.  So I'm not muck with anything special or orignal either, although everything I am doing is reversable.  The wiring harness is a bit hacked at the moment.  More to come!   

[slug54]

Hey Thanks for this really great thread!
I recently acquired a Zero point cab which also came with a Zero point 2 PCB and started thinking of switching a few gun game PCB's.
I am not planning on switching as many as you I was thinking maybe 4 or 5.

I was thinking maybe Zero point, Zero point 2,police trainer and point blank to start. Those are the only ones I've played. Honestly I have not checked to see if Police trainer and point blank use the same guns as my ZP yet.

Would you recommend a 6 in 1 JAMMA switcher and then a relay system to switch gun wiring? Or build switcher from scratch as you did?

Any thoughts would be appreciated and great job on your project and thanks for documenting it here.

-Slug

[runawayabc123]

Hi slug,

Zero Point, Zero Point 2 and Police Trainer all can use the same "happ 45" light gun.  (Zero Point 2 might be able to drive the newer recoil guns, I'm not sure, but the only difference is "adding" recoil, the rest still works the same.  You could use the more expensive recoil gun on old games, but they will NOT drive recoil.) 

6in1 switcher:  This will work for switching the main parts of the game.  The only limitation is power draw.  I never owned one, but it was only estimated to support a few AMPs per board.  So, super power hungry games may burn out the relays.  (Think like Carnevil, area 51 or lock'n loaded.  I have heard of people running area 51 on the 6in1, not sure for how long.) 

The relays I have been using have doubled in price since I started ($8 to $16).  So, that can hurt, but the relays support 8AMPS per pole (I was running 5v/-5v/12v/5v which is 5v twice for 16AMPs on 5v and also helps 5v line drop which is where it is 5v at the power supply, but 4.9v at the PCB and you have to turn up the power supply to run the game). 

Someone has/had a limited sale of "light gun" diode boards on KLOV forms, but it was kind of pricey and required more 12v power (so you would need a power supply that had more than 2AMPs on the 12v rail).  This one ran with diodes instead of relays and didn't require switching.  If you want to go with the 6in1, this would be a better choice than what I did as I ran into slow closing relays that stayed open due to pulling power through a PCB's ground to it's 5v or 12v contact (backwards through the PCB).  I could fix this be changing where the power hooked up in the 12 position switch or the 4pole relays, you won't be able to do that with a 6in1. 

Since you are only doing 3 games, buying all of the parts won't be too bad.  (I'll even sell you my extra 5v mini relays at half price or .50/ea that could hook into the 2nd 5v pole on the relays.  I switched out to 12v relays due to 5v demand needs.) 

If you want to go this route, I'll send you pictures of the "mini" 6 position only board (instead of 12) that will support video/audio/light guns. 

Good luck.