Author Topic: My Arcade monitor chassis into a 27" television thread (Read 4874 times)

saint · « **Reply #5 on:** February 21, 2011, 05:55:23 pm »

I'm light on answers but I'm looking forward to seeing this thread progress!

Dragonman73 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 21, 2011, 06:05:36 pm »

RoyalScam · « **Reply #7 on:** February 23, 2011, 12:18:19 am »

OK let me first say that I've been contemplating this as well as I have two TV sets that are begging to become arcade monitors, so kudos to you! I am however, no expert, but through reading through most of this forum I believe that the first pigtail shown (green, yellow, blue, red) is a hookup for the vertical, and horizontal deflection coils on the picture tube's yoke. With any luck you already have this connector wired up. The same for the ground strap (braided wire solder wick looking thing). The second pigtail I assume is the RGB breakout connector which would be connected to your video output of the game be it, mame PC or dedicated arcade game board. Like I said though, I've not done this yet, so experts please chime in and correct me if I'm wrong. Oh and while we're at it, I have not yet purchased an ArcadeVGA card, so when I make my conversion I don't know how to test it to make sure it's working. I do have a Commodore 128D, could I just use the 80 col output on that to test or do you think I'll need a video amplifier as well?

Regards,
Scam

BurgerKingDiamond · « **Reply #8 on:** February 23, 2011, 02:19:27 pm »

Please continue this and be very detailed. I'm using a 27" TV with a NTSC converter, but some PCB's will not work correctly. So I would like to try this myself someday so I can have a legit arcade monitor without spending $400 or more.

Is that chassis a tri-sync? I want to be able to hookup arcade PCB's and my 360 through VGA at the same time, and thus would recquirea tri-sync monitor.

Dragonman73 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 23, 2011, 02:23:51 pm »

BurgerKingDiamond · « **Reply #10 on:** February 24, 2011, 07:10:34 am »

A tri-sync monitor allows you to connect 15/24/31 (low/med/high rez) khz components at the same time. 15khz would be your standard low rez arcade PCB's, 24khz PCBs are pretty uncommon, and 31khz for newer arcade games and your computer or xbox 360.

Dragonman73 · « **Reply #11 on:** February 24, 2011, 07:21:22 am »

HaRuMaN · « **Reply #12 on:** February 24, 2011, 09:37:15 am »

Quote from: Dragonman73 on February 24, 2011, 07:21:22 am

Quote from: BurgerKingDiamond on February 24, 2011, 07:10:34 am
A tri-sync monitor allows you to connect 15/24/31 (low/med/high rez) khz components at the same time. 15khz would be your standard low rez arcade PCB's, 24khz PCBs are pretty uncommon, and 31khz for newer arcade games and your computer or xbox 360.

I think they are tri-sync because on they say 3-mode high resolution 15k/24k/31k on the website.

http://www.alvaamusement.com/id5.html

That's for the monitors they are selling.

I have that same Wei-Ya board, it's 15k.

@Dragonman, you'll be using that white pigtail (5 wires) to hook up to your video signal. You can ignore the black pigtail. Polarity doesn't matter on the ISO transformer.

Dragonman73 · « **Reply #13 on:** February 24, 2011, 09:44:38 am »

.....

HaRuMaN · « **Reply #14 on:** February 24, 2011, 09:47:00 am »

Have you checked that your tube neck has the same number of pins as the neck board?

Dragonman73 · « **Reply #15 on:** February 24, 2011, 09:47:44 am »

Gray_Area · « **Reply #16 on:** February 24, 2011, 02:30:07 pm »

Quote from: HarumaN on February 24, 2011, 09:37:15 am

Quote from: Dragonman73 on February 24, 2011, 07:21:22 am
Quote from: BurgerKingDiamond on February 24, 2011, 07:10:34 am
A tri-sync monitor allows you to connect 15/24/31 (low/med/high rez) khz components at the same time. 15khz would be your standard low rez arcade PCB's, 24khz PCBs are pretty uncommon, and 31khz for newer arcade games and your computer or xbox 360.

I think they are tri-sync because on they say 3-mode high resolution 15k/24k/31k on the website.

http://www.alvaamusement.com/id5.html

That's for the monitors they are selling.

I have that same Wei-Ya board, it's 15k.

@Dragonman, you'll be using that white pigtail (5 wires) to hook up to your video signal. You can ignore the black pigtail. Polarity doesn't matter on the ISO transformer.

Yes, the number, thickness, and colors of the wires are usually telling. They seem to be in this case, although I'm surprised the chassis didn't come with a basic layout manual.

HaRuMaN · « **Reply #17 on:** February 24, 2011, 02:40:16 pm »

That chassis comes with nothing other than some nice Styrofoam...

Dragonman73 · « **Reply #18 on:** March 03, 2011, 08:58:56 am »

Dragonman73 · « **Reply #19 on:** March 03, 2011, 09:02:31 am »

Dragonman73 · « **Reply #20 on:** March 03, 2011, 09:03:29 am »

Dragonman73 · « **Reply #21 on:** March 03, 2011, 09:14:21 am »

HaRuMaN · « **Reply #22 on:** March 03, 2011, 09:29:07 am »

Yes, you need a VGA breakout cable. Buy one from Andy, or make one.

Connect it to your 5 wire white connector... and then connect that to your chassis.

Dragonman73 · « **Reply #23 on:** March 03, 2011, 09:46:32 am »

NoRefunds · « **Reply #24 on:** March 05, 2011, 12:24:09 am »

I'm sorry, but the information in this thread is so messed up and wrong.

I am almost 100% positive your new chassis will go up in smoke. The wire you called a degaussing wire is not. The thick black wire you discarded was your degaussing loop which may or may not even work with this new chassis. Not to mention the yoke and measuring that and neck boards and a zillion other things. Even IF that tube and yoke were an exact match for that chassis, that chassis is pure junk. Six months, tops.

I hate to sound negative, but you are in way over your head. You don't know what a signal wire is or a yoke connection or degaussing circuit etc etc etc. And I'm not picking on you at all. We were all noobies at one point, but you are tackling a project that only very experienced techs should do...tube swaps/chassis swaps. You are playing around with lethal voltages. That's not to be taken lightly. And I think you are getting terrible advice from others. Whoever you bought that chassis from will probably be eating that one after it blows up and it gets sent back to them.

I do wish you well and I hope that some experts get in here and help you out.

Kevin Mullins · « **Reply #25 on:** March 05, 2011, 12:55:20 am »

Quote from: NoRefunds on March 05, 2011, 12:24:09 am

The wire you called a degaussing wire is not. The thick black wire you discarded was your degaussing loop

Was just fixing to point that out as well....the thin metal braided looking wire is the "dag" wire. Which you DO want connected to the new chassis ground, usually on the neckboard.

And obviously you will want that degauss coil back on there, should work depending on what type of circuit Wei-Ya used.

You are also going to want to meter those yoke leads to make sure you don't mix them up since your color coding is different. (in order to attach the supplied pigtail) You don't want to mix the Vertical set of windings and the Horizontal set up.

And for god sakes placed a folded towel or something under the face of that tube when you have it laying face down..... you'll scratch it up in a heartbeat, I don't care how clean you "think" a table is.

Dragonman73 · « **Reply #26 on:** March 05, 2011, 07:03:52 am »

.....

Dragonman73 · « **Reply #27 on:** March 05, 2011, 07:06:01 am »

NoRefunds · « **Reply #28 on:** March 05, 2011, 09:02:26 am »

Quote from: Dragonman73 on March 05, 2011, 07:03:52 am

Quote from: NoRefunds on March 05, 2011, 12:24:09 am
I'm sorry, but the information in this thread is so messed up and wrong.

I am almost 100% positive your new chassis will go up in smoke. The wire you called a degaussing wire is not. The thick black wire you discarded was your degaussing loop which may or may not even work with this new chassis. Not to mention the yoke and measuring that and neck boards and a zillion other things. Even IF that tube and yoke were an exact match for that chassis, that chassis is pure junk. Six months, tops.

I hate to sound negative, but you are in way over your head. You don't know what a signal wire is or a yoke connection or degaussing circuit etc etc etc. And I'm not picking on you at all. We were all noobies at one point, but you are tackling a project that only very experienced techs should do...tube swaps/chassis swaps. You are playing around with lethal voltages. That's not to be taken lightly. And I think you are getting terrible advice from others. Whoever you bought that chassis from will probably be eating that one after it blows up and it gets sent back to them.

I do wish you well and I hope that some experts get in here and help you out.

Actually I'm pretty sharp, I’ve been working with car audio electronics for almost 25 years, worked in manufacturing as a machine tech for 13 years, got my college degrees (including masters) a few years ago in Information Technology. I have also wired my shop, roofing, tiling, repaired my HVAC unit in my home using schematics… Lets add completing installing a LS1 engine in my 1976 Camaro using a completely modified engine harness / PCU combined with my stock harness….this has been what has been taking up my time lately. Oh I also have done paint and body too…the “experts” told me not to tackle my first paint job, but I did on my Corvette….and it looked better than some of the “experts”. Five years later it still looks good.

Not trying to pat myself on the back, but I’m not your “average” person and feel very confident in my abilities. Sure I don’t know what some of the “terminology “is, but that’s the point of asking questions and doing research. Did I mention I never do something without doing my research? I don’t limit myself to any information I find on this website…there are tons out there to find what I need.

I’m also smart enough not to dive into something until I get all the information I need, the wire you mentioned, I do still have. If I blow the board, oh well, if it last six months, oh well…it’s just money and I learned what not to do next time. If I listen to what the experts say I would be paying for everything I need done, instead of doing it myself and making myself that much smarter in a new trade.

Rather than tell me that I’m going to blow something up why don’t you add something constructive like tell me what wires are actually what? I posted pics and asked questions to help guide me/or anyone else determine what is what on these boards.

You’re entitled to your opinion and I appreciate that, but I never listen to opinions telling me I can’t do something.

Thanks though

Lighten up.

ummmm.......I did point out what various wires were and I didn't say you couldn't do it. That would be constructive. It's just more than plugging things in. I did say that some others in this thread failed to point you in the right direction. Winning.

coliveira · « **Reply #29 on:** March 05, 2011, 01:10:46 pm »

Why are there so many missing pictures? I hope you're planning on seeing this through! I don't know anything about any of this stuff, but I'm finding it very interesting to learn about it. I was actually thinking that if you complete this project and the thread it might be something that I'm able to refer back to in the future. Seems like there are a lot more cabinets around my area without monitors than with and when I get my own machine going it sounds like it'd be a lot cheaper to use an old tv tube.

Please replace the pictures and finish up... for posterity!

clutch · « **Reply #30 on:** March 09, 2011, 09:57:54 am »


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