Hantarex Polo/2

[Jollywest]

Hi,

If possible, could someone please clarify that the Arcade Monitor pictured below is a Hantarex Polo/2?

   
(click to enlarge)

Would this Cap Kit suit this monitor? > Cap-Kit

There seems to be no Isolation Transformer in my cabinet and I plan to remove the Jamma PSU. Is it safe to just wire a plug onto the power lead coming from the monitor, plug this into a 4-way gang and wire the gang to the cabinet switch?

Incase it matters, I'm from the UK.
Thanks.

[grantspain]

looks like a polo 2 to me
you can wire direct to mains with these
not sure that cap kit is right,looks like its for a polo 1 chassis
there are about 10 caps worth changing on the polo 2 but whats your exact problem?

[Jollywest]

Thanks for the reply.



The colour is quite poor and there is slight screen wobble mainly on the left. I've adjusted the pots on the Remote board and Neck board without solving these issues. For some reason I seem to have the Remote cable for a Hantarex Polo 1;



I see there is a Degauss loop, So I presume a manual degauss won't help, but I can try it if you think it might.
If possible could you please point me in the direction of a Cap-Kit that suits this monitor as well? If you think it needs it, and maybe a Remote cable?

Thanks for helping.

* EDIT *

Noticed this sticker on the chassis. Does the 25/28 represent monitor size in inches? as the cabinet only has a 20" monitor. 

[grantspain]

looks like the wrong chassis from the last pic
polo25/28 are meant for 25" or 28" crt
the crt will have a label like A66EAK501T-thats the actual part number of the crt
you can modify this chassis if you have the skills-otherwise look for a replacement

[Jollywest]

So it looks like someone has maybe adapted a Polo/2 25/28 chassis to work wth a Polo/1 20" crt; 

 

It does work but like I said there is slight screen wobble and the colour quality isn't great.
I could only see one possible part number, hard to make out the first 3 characters, it could have been A66 the rest is D76D93C92.
There is also a buzzing noise coming from the flyback side of the chassis somewhere, i'm justing in the middle of testing resistors.

[grantspain]

A66 is a 25" tube-measure the crt diagonal not horizontal

first thing you need to do is check whether your crt and chassis match-there is a resistor on the neck card at R35,whats the value?also need the full crt label number to match the correct value
if this resistor is wrong you get all sorts of crappy picture quality

make sure there are now ballasts or transformers near the crt as they can cause "wobble"

then if you want to really go anal on this change the following caps
main chassis
C17 220UF 25V
C18 22UF 50V
C11 100UF 200V
C19 10UF 200V
C31 470UF 35V
C32 220UF 25V
C92 47UF 250V
C106 47UF 250V
neck card
C18 47UF 25V
C14 4U7F 250V

btw polo 2 fit and work on polo 1 tubes but you don't get full vertical deflection unless you change a resistor

[Jollywest]

It's difficult to make out the first 3 characters but Its definetely a 20" monitor;



Are the white things transformers/ballasts?;

   

R35 colour band (brown/black/gold/gold) equates to 1 Ohm 1% resistor, but I measure it at 1.7 Ohms;



I guess the resistor must have been changed as I have full vertical deflection on screen.



Thanks for the info on the caps.

[grantspain]

that chassis will be giving out around 25kv on the anode whereas your tube requires around 19kv-there is your problem

you need the correct size chassis

[Jollywest]

Ah, thats a shame!

Would the following chassis work with the 20" monitor, I think its for a polo/1 but its for a 25/28 monitor.
Polo 25/28 chassis

[grantspain]

http://www.coin.demon.co.uk/-video.htm#hantarex

Polo 1 chassis for 20 inch monitor. Used, working.

[grantspain]

btw pm me if you want to sell the polo 2 chassis at some point as i am interested

[Jollywest]

Great, thanks for all the help. Will pm you in a bit