Broken monitor solved. And some good info for people using CRT TV's.

[BurgerKingDiamond]

So, the other day I broke the tube neck on my candy cab that I JUST had delivered. I got it on ebay for an awesome price. Anyway, it was working, and I was trying to some adjustments and my hand slipped, caught the neckboard and the tube snapped. So after slipping into a deep depression, I decided that I am going to go to the pawn shop, pick up a crt and try a tube swap. I think that the chassis is in pretty good shape, and it seems to be a nice one, so I want to try and keep it and just swap out the tube.

After researching online about tube swapping, I have read a couple of places that 25" and larger CRT's all have 10 pin connectors to the neckboard. However, on my now busted 27" crt, it has a 12 pin connector. So I guess my question is whether I am likely to find another 12 pin crt (it would have to be 12 pin so I can plug it into the neckboard from the busted one, right???). Do I have something out of the ordinary?

If it isn't likely that I can find a crt to use with the chassis I guess I will just use a 27" crt with a 10 pin connector and buy a replacement chassis from 8liners.com.

Please help my fix this problem so I can play my lovely candy cab again!!!!!!!! (I have a Raiden II pcb coming from ebay that I am dying to play!!helP!!!!)

[grantspain]

whats the cab?
don't look at the crt socket-look at the amount of pins on the neck itself

[apfelanni]

without telling us what cab , tube type and chassis noone can ever help u . if its a common candy with 29 inch tube u may found a replacement taken out of a tv set.

[BurgerKingDiamond]

Well, from what I read, if the yoke impedance on both crts is close, you can just switch out the new tube and its yoke and connect them to the neckboard of the busted crt (if the connector is the right size).

When I get home ill try to get more specifics. Off the top of my head I can tell you that the busted monitor is 27" diagonally, and the crt is made by samsung, and the chassis is orion. The cab is made by crown (korean right?)

[grantspain]

i would say that will be a 1.2mh yoke on that-a standard cga type tube/yoke combo
but you can't tell for sure without reading the yoke with an inductance meter

normally all standard tv's are around 0.900 to 1.5mh yoke except trinitrons and a few others

[BurgerKingDiamond]

Horizontal deflection impedance : 1.0 OHM
Vertical deflection impedance: 7.8 OHM

Tube spec: A68KVL74X02     made by Samsung

the connector has 12 pins on the outside, but when I look under the back of the neck PCB I only see 10 solder points, so I don't know how that works...

So, from this information, does it sound like this can be easily swapped out for a TV tube?

Can somebody confirm for me the procedure? Somebody who has done this before hopefully... From what I understand, if I can find a CRT with the right connector and the vertical and horizontal yoke impedances are similar I can just connect it to the neck pcb and plug the yoke wires into the chassis, and connect the anode clip from the chassis. Right?

[lilshawn]

the connector has 12 pins on the outside, but when I look under the back of the neck PCB I only see 10 solder points, so I don't know how that works...

please please please please please remove that neck board off the stump of the tube and put us out of our misery. no soldering required. count up those pins.

A68KVL74X02

you will have to find a tube with a similar #... anything with A68KVL74X_ _ _ or even a B68KVL74X_ _ _  will be a likely candidate.

Can somebody confirm for me the procedure? Somebody who has done this before hopefully... From what I understand, if I can find a CRT with the right connector and the vertical and horizontal yoke impedances are similar I can just connect it to the neck pcb and plug the yoke wires into the chassis, and connect the anode clip from the chassis. Right?

if you can get really close with the yoke, then yes. i mean REALLY close. without an induction meter (millihenerys) you can't be sure (resistance (ohms) is close to ballpark the yoke, but really no good for 100% sure). your next likely bet is to swap the yoke from your original tube the the donor.

[BurgerKingDiamond]

I am not very confident in my ability to pull off this tube swapping ordeal. It sounds like a headache and I just don't want to deal with it. So, I went to the local pawn shop and got a really nice 27" CRT TV ($40) with s-video in and component in (for xbox 360 MUSHI FUTARI on vertical Candy Cab!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!). I'm just gonna get a converter board that will take the jamma rgb signal and convert it to s-video. So it looks like the only potential difficulty may lie in trying to mount the tv in the cab. Will there be metal brackets underneath the plastic, like on an arcade monitor??? I have a feeling that may be wishful thinking...

[grantspain]

nope,no bracket on tv's

[apfelanni]

usually asian or european tv tubes have 100 % identical mounting holes/brackets like the ones used in arcade cabs .  so the tube should 100 % fit. sometimes mounting the chassis can be painful if the wires are short or the chassis is much bigger than the replaced arcade stuff.

did u check the electronic dump in ur town for an old samsung tv set or a brand that uses samsung tubes ?  i guess the chances of finding a fitting tube are not that bad. i allways scout for philips , toshiba and thomson tubes to replace burned arcade crts. i would google some tv repair guys forum for an identical tube used in a tv and replace the " necked " one.

[BurgerKingDiamond]

The tv fits my bezel perfectly, and it has the same mounting brackets! I decased it and have it in my cab now. I'm still waiting for my Jamma RGB to NTSC s-video converter. I also have to cut the wood behind the bezel so that I can rotate the monitor. Although you can see that the cab is designed to allow for rotation, for some reason the wood that you mount the tv into isn't cut big enough in the vertical direction.

I'll post some pics once I get the vertical thing worked out.

[BurgerKingDiamond]

My decased 27" CRT is mounted vertically in the candy cab and my RGB to NTSC converter and Raiden II pcb both came in. I got the converter from Jammaboards.com for like $40 with shipping (something like that). So my grand total for fixing my stupid mistake has only been about $80, which I can live with.

The converter was easy to hook up. All I had to do was find the +12V and ground pins on my Jamma harness and solder the power cable for the converter. Then just plug in the connector with the red, green, blue, ground, and sync wires from the Jamma harness into the converter. Finally plug in the s-video cable to the converter and TV and that's it. The converter has 3 pots for adjust R,G,B. I was able to adjust them to get a pretty nice picture. Raiden II looks amazing and I have found that there is no other way to play vertical shmups than on this kind of setup.

There was one problem though. When I hooked up Raiden, there was about 1/2" black bar on the left and top of the monitor. I looked at the TV chassis, and there aren't any pots for picture adjustment (which is understandable since a TV is never meant to be taken apart). Also, there aren't any settings within the TV menu that let you make adjustments for picture position from the front panel controls.

Luckily I was able to find some really valuable information. Apparently there are secret service modes for TV's. You have to enter special codes to get into them though. I was able to use the info from this page on my Panasonic and adjust the horizontal and vertical position, which solved my problem.

http://www.artofhacking.com/files/TVMODES.TXT  

I will post some pics tomorrow. And maybe start a thread in project announcements to document the rest of this project. I still have to wire up the switch box to go between Xbox 360 and Jamma.

[snarly]

Hi Burger,

I am having similiar monitor problems that I can't figure out...even got a new chassis....

Can you post pics of the tv and converter set up you did?

I am thinking this is the way to go rather than keep messing with caps, solder, etc.

Thanks,
chris

[BurgerKingDiamond]

@snarly
I will do that for you. sorry for not responded to your post. I forgot to check up on this thread.
check back this weekend.

[Arcade22]

Hey Burger,
I know this hasn't been touched in a while, but do you still have the Orion monitor chasis mentioned in this post?  I could use it for a project I'm working on if you no longer have a need...  Let me know and send me a message please.

Thanks!