Discharging TV without a spark?

[Beeman]

Hey everyone, Long time lurker, first time poster..

I've got a 27" TV that I'm planning on using in a project cabinet, I've taken the back case off of my tv and made a "discharging tool" out of an extension cord and soldering a large alligator clip on each end of the extension cord. Then I am clipping one end to a metal screwdriver w/a insulated handle and the other end of the wire to something metal inside of the TV (there's not much of a metal frame inside the tv, but there are a few spots that the tube is mounted inside of the tv that are metal"

I'm quite familiar with the discharging process and have watched a few dozen videos on youtube to freshen up my memory on doing a discharge.. I'm confident that my technique is spot on.

My Question is: Should I be getting a "pop" or a visible spark when I'm pushing the screwdriver under the anode cap? I am a little hesitant to move forward since i cant be 100% sure that I've actually discharged the thing..

Keep in mind that the TV was plugged in and turned on 10 minutes before trying to discharge it.. So There's definitely juice in there.
Do you guys have any tips for what I could try differently or something else that may ease my mind?

Thanks for the help in advance.

[qrz]

pending the tv brand , it may be one that will bleed off via the focus/screen pot ass'y in the flyback.

i.e. some do , some don't .

ground to the CRT's ground strap.  (NOT the chassis) then make solid contact with the anode button.

if it makes you feel more secure, a wire w/dual alligator clips can then be connected to the anode button and gnd strap.

[Beeman]

pending the tv brand , it may be one that will bleed off via the focus/screen pot ass'y in the flyback.

i.e. some do , some don't .

ground to the CRT's ground strap.  (NOT the chassis) then make solid contact with the anode button.

if it makes you feel more secure, a wire w/dual alligator clips can then be connected to the anode button and gnd strap.

The TV is a 27" Samtron Model SAM2540 -- Are you able to tell me from just the model number if its bleeding off or not?

Where would the ground strap you're referring to be located?

[SirPeale]

Dude, if it didn't pop, it's not going to.  Just pop the anode off already.  Leave the discharge tool under the cap, and use the screwdriver to compress the clip.

[Beeman]

Dude, if it didn't pop, it's not going to.  Just pop the anode off already.  Leave the discharge tool under the cap, and use the screwdriver to compress the clip.

As far as what to do after popping the anode off.. Should I wrap it in something insulated for disconnecting the board so i can move it into my cabinet? If for some reason its not discharged I'd rather not die if it swings around and touches my arm or something.

[qrz]

sigh, just leave it ... no voltage retention by the flyback

with a crt,   you're far more likely to be injured by the "knee jerk " reaction than the shock itself...

just don't try it on an ACTIVE circuit 

the reason a crt can retain a charge is due to a conductive coating on both sides of the glass ( inner/outer )

a capacitor is a pair (or more) of conductive plates seperated by an insulator  --[ (--   hmmm, see above ..

[Beeman]

sigh, just leave it ... no voltage retention by the flyback

with a crt,   you're far more likely to be injured by the "knee jerk " reaction than the shock itself...

just don't try it on an ACTIVE circuit 

the reason a crt can retain a charge is due to a conductive coating on both sides of the glass ( inner/outer )

a capacitor is a pair (or more) of conductive plates seperated by an insulator  --[ (--   hmmm, see above ..

Sorry if i'm being a pain. I'm just trying to be cautious since this will be my first time taking a CRT tv apart. I have seperate the tube from the anode cap and the rest of the PCB so I can mount the thing in my cabinet.

[Mikezilla]

If I may ask, how are you mounting it into your cabinet? I just recently decased a TV to put into my cab, and I didnt discharge anything. I had an arcade monitor in there, but I wanted to take it out cause it had a crack on the board, or maybe on the neck, it was flickering and it drove me nuts. I took the arcade monitor out of the frame, very gently of course, and planned on putting the TV in. I decased the TV, and then mounted the TV into the existing frame. I think glued the board to the bottom of the frame, and put a piece of plexiglass underneath so none of the traces would come in contact with the frame and just mounted it into the cab cause it had the support for the existing frame. Viola. Everything worked fine, and the best part of all... I didnt die!!! 

[Beeman]

If I may ask, how are you mounting it into your cabinet? I just recently decased a TV to put into my cab, and I didnt discharge anything. I had an arcade monitor in there, but I wanted to take it out cause it had a crack on the board, or maybe on the neck, it was flickering and it drove me nuts. I took the arcade monitor out of the frame, very gently of course, and planned on putting the TV in. I decased the TV, and then mounted the TV into the existing frame. I think glued the board to the bottom of the frame, and put a piece of plexiglass underneath so none of the traces would come in contact with the frame and just mounted it into the cab cause it had the support for the existing frame. Viola. Everything worked fine, and the best part of all... I didnt die!!! 

My cabinet had a 27 inch monitor (just the tube, no board was there) mounted in the frame still. I yanked the old tube out without any problems, and luckily the mounting frame matches up to be the exact same dimensions as the 27" CRT that i'm looking to put in there. So as far as the tube goes, I've got no problems.

As far as the board goes.. Well... I haven't really gotten that far yet lol. I will probably do something as simple as mounting it to a piece of MDF inside the cabinet (my cabinet is very roomy) Honestly I would be done with this ordeal already if I didnt have the need to seperate the tube and the board for installation. I'd just throw on some heavily insulated gloves and position the thing in there..  But with the way things are (the size of the board/the openings in the mounting frame..) I'm almost positive that I'm going to have to separate the two for installation.  Which involves removing the anode cap and having to deal with being very careful with possible electricity still left behind.

Any pointers since you've recently gone through this?
Thanks

[Mikezilla]

Can you put a picture on here? That would help out a little. See, my cab ISNT very roomy, and I didnt feel like building a special support, thats why I took the arcade monitor off the fame w/o discharging it so I could use the frame. And, I didnt want to bother with having to discharge it Slap some pics on here and lets take a look.

[Beeman]

Can you put a picture on here? That would help out a little. See, my cab ISNT very roomy, and I didnt feel like building a special support, thats why I took the arcade monitor off the fame w/o discharging it so I could use the frame. And, I didnt want to bother with having to discharge it Slap some pics on here and lets take a look.

Sorry about the delay in responding to you here.. Had a bit of a busy day and didn't have the chance to get pictures up for you until now..
The cabinet was originally an Area 51 Cabinet. The only thing that was left in it was the monitor and the frame.. literally everything else was stripped out.
It looks like I could mount the board on the piece of wood right below the frame.  But I still think I'm going to have to separate the two to do so.

If you need some more vantage points or any other pics, let me know.

[Mikezilla]

Its all good brotha. Well, if you do it gently, I think you might not need to discharge anything here. People might get all crazy and talk trash about my technique/methods, but if youre careful, it should work. I was, and everything worked out fine. I would take the frame out, decase the tv, and mount the CRT to the frame, leaving the chassis sort of "dangling" if you will. If you can get someone to help you out, that would be ideal. While youre mounting the CRT back into the cab, have someone reach through and put the chassis/board of the CRT onto the wood paneling as you put the frame?CRT back in. I think the slack from the wires should be efficient enough to hang down so you can mount it on the wood. Besides, its not like youre going to be fooling around with the monitor that much anyway. Its not going to look perfect, but hey, like I said, youre not going to be looking at that.

[Mikezilla]

Youre just going to have to twist it around and rig it so when you put it in, you can set it back down. I laid my monitor face down on a little couch I had in the garage, then did all my work that way. My frame however, had a spot for the chassis, too bad yours doesnt. Shouldnt be that big of a problem though.