First cabinet, currently unnamed (Update 10/19/10: It's Alive!)

[GoingIncognito]

Once my neighbor (Martoon X of the Defender MAME Project) decided to build a cabinet and got it all working I knew I wouldn't be able to resist.  After only minor cajoling I decided to make a cabinet of my own.

After searching the internet and looking at a metric ton of plans I decided to go with a 2-player bartop-sized unit because it would be easier to maneuver and I'd have more places I could put it in the house (although it will likely 'live' in the basement for the most part).  Plus, it'd be cheaper than a full-size cabinet.

Here are the source plans that I picked:



Even though I wanted a bartop-sized unit I thought the plans would be a little too small for comfortable 2-player gaming, plus I wanted a trackball anyway.  I wasn't even sure if the PC I had would fit inside without modifying the PC or the plans.
Martoon was kind enough to offer me absolutely copious amounts of help (plus he has more tools than I do), and after taking measurements of the PC and LCD monitor he drafted up a set of working plans and modeled the entire thing out in 3D.

Here is the basic design:






Note: I did add 3 buttons to the CP after this was modeled out, Coin 1, Coin 2, and a single admin button (Will be pause, but act as Shift when held).

We're using 1/2" plywood for the build and ample interior bracing of 1"x2" strips to help ensure structural stability and prevent bowing.  Since making it luggable (and not too expensive!) was one of the things I wanted, I think 1/2" plywood is a good choice, plus Martoon had an entire extra sheet of it in his garage  .  I'm estimating that the entire unit will weigh 65-75 lbs max when fully equipped (although I could be wrong, we'll see), and I consider that to be fairly luggable up and down stairs in the house once I install some inset cabinet handles, especially when compared to Martoon's monster of a cabinet.  Since the rear swings down I can always move the PC and LCD out during moves to save some weight.

Here's a picture of the sides cut out:



I should have more pictures of the build process later, I think Martoon took some.  When I return I'll post the controls parts list, etc.

Thanks for looking and advice and comments are welcome!  I'm still extremely new to all this so we'll see how it goes.

[MikeyMerse]

Looks great, and you are off to a quick start! Sounds like you have some good help next door too. I like your plan of putting the trackball off-center to the left, so it won't get in the way of Player2's left hand, very smart.

[emphatic]

This does look good. If you use hacked 360 pads for your controls, you could easily fit an XBox 360 in there if you get tired of emulated games.

[jholman76]

I am finishing up my blacked out bartop project and found that de-casing the PC helped a lot for spatial constraints as well as cooling. Have you looked into doing that? the towers can take up a lot of room.

[GoingIncognito]

Thanks .  Actually putting the trackball off center is Martoon's idea.  It's also offset so that when using the trackball if you vigorously spin it to the right or upper right you don't immediately smack into the joystick.  I think there would be enough space for a 360, but I already have one connected to my TV so I'm not sure I could go back to playing on a little screen .

I decided to go with Ultrastik's instead of 4/8 ways because they're highly versatile, but I will be installing the harder spring and circular restrictor.  Since this cab won't be focusing on a single type of game and will have a bunch of different emulators on it (PC is likely powerful enough to handle PS1, DreamCast, etc) I wanted to ensure the largest possible level of compatibility.  They were a little pricey when compared to the Mag-Stick Plus, but I figured in the end I didn't really mind paying for versatility.

I also went with Ultimarc's 2 1/4 inch Trackball (I think it is the STC 2-1/4 inch trackball, so I guess it's actually a Suzo trackball, go figure).  It was a lot less than a Happ, and I wanted to go smaller than a 3" trackball anyway.

I bought all my buttons from Ultimarc, too.  Originally I wanted to do lighted buttons, but again in a bid to save some money I went with the Classic Pushbuttons instead.  If/when I do another machine I'll go all out and have nice LED-lit buttons.

The cab was designed to fit the PC with case on, so there shouldn't be any space issues.  I am going to install 2 additional cooling fans to help keep the heat under control, as well.  One will be at the top to draw hot air out, the other I haven't decided yet.  I need to get the PC in the cab and see where the heat generates and how the airflow is.  I can de-case the PC without a problem, but I'm hesitant to do it because it's a really nice Li-Lian case that I once upon a time paid around $180 for.  I may still end up de-casing due to heat, airflow, or weight issues.  I'd have to drill some rivets out if I wanted to keep the interior mounting structure, and this would likely end up destroying most of the innards of the case.  It's an option, though

[jholman76]

If you keep it in the case, I would highly suggest leaving a door off of it.

If you DO decase it, you dont have to ruin the case. You can just get some threaded inserts and use some MOBO standoffs (that most likely came with your high-end case for adjusting different mobo types). I did that for mine:



Or, a couple of the well known arcade stores sell PCB mounting feet, but they can be spendy ($4 for a set of 4) where the threaded inserts were probably 45 cents each.

Lots of options, but please, take my advice with a grain of salt. It is 100% your decision.

Good start, though. A good experienced friend to help is priceless!

joe

[GoingIncognito]

Yeah, it's a good idea (and my mobo is on the little included standoffs).  Oddly enough I never really gave much thought to taking the components out of the PC and remounting everything inside the cab.  I had only considered taking the internal structure out along with the components.  haha!  I don't specifically need the internal structure from the case, it just keeps everything nice and tidy and provides handy mounting points for all the bits.  I'm definitely going to leave the side door off if I leave it all in the case.  Heat generation will be my biggest concern, and would likely be the biggest reason for me to remount everything directly inside the cab. The upshot of all this is that regardless of whether I decase or not, I think there's enough open space in the case to ensure that when properly vented there will be plenty of airflow to help keep things cool.


Also, forgot to mention that I got a Mini-Pac from Ultimarc for everything to plug into .

[GoingIncognito]

Here are a few more pictures from the build (Thanks to Martoon for sending them to me since I neglected to take more than one picture myself, whoops!):

Plywood with outline of side ready to go under the knife


Side showing an internal brace installed


All the pieces waiting patiently to be put together


My parts shipped from Ultimarc yesterday and arrived in Ohio today.  Assuming they keep up the pace I should have them Monday, woot!

Edit:  It appears they're already out for delivery!  Way to go Ultimarc and DHL.  Will keep everyone updated . 

[GoingIncognito]

Parts arrived yesterday : : :!  to Andy at Ultimarc.

Here's a quick picture I took with my cellphone last night.


Yes, only one Ultrastik is pictured.  Martoon was kind enough to buy me a second Ultrastik for my birthday and no one was home at his house to accept the delivery, so the 2nd stick will arrive Monday.

[GoingIncognito]

Getting excited!  Soon enough it'll be time to wire up the control panel!

Here are pics of this weekend's progress:



More bracing


Cabinet beginning to look like an actual arcade cabinet


Cabinet pretty much framed out




Keyboard drawer being assembled




Cabinet with keyboard drawer installed




Closeup showing the back stop installed to prevent the drawer from being pushed too far in

[martoon x]

Getting close! I think you might be wiring up before the end of the month

[GoingIncognito]

I hope so! 

[GoingIncognito]

Here's a render of the control panel that I printed out at actual size so that we could overlay it on to the actual control panel to make sure everything is properly spaced.

The top row of buttons are as follows: Coin 1, Player 1 Start, Admin, Player 2 Start, Coin 2.  Not shown are the two buttons mounted on the side of the cabinet for Pinball, etc (they are shown in the renders above anyway).

[Yvan256]

Here's a render of the control panel that I printed out at actual size so that we could overlay it on to the actual control panel to make sure everything is properly spaced.

The top row of buttons are as follows: Coin 1, Player 1 Start, Admin, Player 2 Start, Coin 2.  Not shown are the two buttons mounted on the side of the cabinet for Pinball, etc (they are shown in the renders above anyway).

Just make sure your side pinball buttons are not in the way of anything (left player joystick or right player buttons).

[GoingIncognito]

Yeah, the side buttons are far enough away to not interfere with any other controls.  While not pictured in the render just posted, you can see them in the beginning of the thread.  They are positioned closer to the front edge (where you would stand) and down a bit, so they will be "below" any of the other controls anyway.

Next up, decasing the computer bits and mounting to the rear hinged door! 

[GoingIncognito]

The decasing begins!

The parts will be mounted to the rear door so when it hinges down I have easy access to all the computer components.  Last night I began taking things out of the case and roughly laying them out where I want them.  I didn't get around to removing the motherboard, though.

Yes, these are from my cellphone.  Yes, I was too lazy to go get my real camera.  And finally, yes, I am working in my basement (but not actually in my workroom on my workbench since it's being used for storage right now  )

Laying some parts out:


Wire spaghetti preview:


Motherboard still mounted inside case, along with related button/USB/LED wiring and two fans I plan to use:


Some of the extra parts I have just in case I need them, mostly fans, LED bits, screws/standoffs, and some mounting stuff.  Didn't know if I wanted to use any of it, but thought I may as well get it all out.  Not shown are the extra molex and wiring stuff, USB extensions and some wiring bits for the power strip (going to mount power strip inside with a single connector on the outside to plug into wall):

[XNIF]

looking real good. Just wondering.... is it possible to fit a bigger TFT in this case?

[GoingIncognito]

looking real good. Just wondering.... is it possible to fit a bigger TFT in this case?

The design as modified by Martoon fits my 19" 4:3 LCD nicely, but since it's roomy inside you could probably go bigger.  You'd lose some bezel space, though.

[apfelanni]

nice build dude .. so far i know 19 inch tft are 5:4 ratio . u'd better scout for a 20 inch dell / hp whatever with 1600x1200 panel. 

[GoingIncognito]

Yeah, you're right.  The 19" is 5:4 and the native resolution is 1280x1024 (Viewsonic VX900 IIRC).  I used the 19" because I had an extra one I wasn't using and am trying to save some cash where I can.  Don't happen to have a nice 20" LCD you're looking to give away for free, do ya .

[Avrus]

Here's a render of the control panel that I printed out at actual size so that we could overlay it on to the actual control panel to make sure everything is properly spaced.

The top row of buttons are as follows: Coin 1, Player 1 Start, Admin, Player 2 Start, Coin 2.  Not shown are the two buttons mounted on the side of the cabinet for Pinball, etc (they are shown in the renders above anyway).

Not that it matters but your trackball in the diagram is rotated 90 degrees clockwise.  It should be rotated 90 degrees counter clockwise.

Edit: Erm in addition not sure if the diagram is to scale but it doesn't look like you have 3.25 inches from the center of your trackball to the edge of the control panel for the mounting plate.  Looks like about 2 inches.  In addition the mounting plate would overlap player 1 buttons 3 and 6.  Based on the diagram you have there I don't believe you'll be able to use a mounting plate if you're wanting a trackball on that size of control panel.

Edit2: I see you went with the 2 1/4" trackball I don't see the mount plate dimensions on the Ultimarc site but I would assume it's between 5" square and 5.5" square.

[GoingIncognito]

Not that it matters but your trackball in the diagram is rotated 90 degrees clockwise.  It should be rotated 90 degrees counter clockwise.

Edit: Erm in addition not sure if the diagram is to scale but it doesn't look like you have 3.25 inches from the center of your trackball to the edge of the control panel for the mounting plate.  Looks like about 2 inches.  In addition the mounting plate would overlap player 1 buttons 3 and 6.  Based on the diagram you have there I don't believe you'll be able to use a mounting plate if you're wanting a trackball on that size of control panel.

Edit2: I see you went with the 2 1/4" trackball I don't see the mount plate dimensions on the Ultimarc site but I would assume it's between 5" square and 5.5" square.

After reading your post I went and laid the printout down and placed the mounting plate on top of it.  You're right in that the mounting plate interferes with player 1 button 6, but it doesn't appear to get in the way of button 3.  Regardless there's going to have to be some tweaking done.  Thanks for the heads up, I didn't notice this until you said something and since I haven't made a test panel (or even laid out the actual controls) I didn't realize there was some overlap.  Hopefully I can get this sorted out tonight or tomorrow.  The trackball in the layout is actually a Happ 3", not the Ultimarc 2 1/4".  Martoon had the model of the Happ on his computer already so used that as a placeholder until I could bring over the real trackball.

I have all the components out of the case now and am just positioning them for mounting on the rear door.  The power button and power/HD LEDs were a PITA to remove from the case and required me to use channel locks to remove a thin brass nut that held the assembly into the case.  I managed to break one of the two small tabs holding the power pushbutton into the button front, but it all still holds nicely with just the one tab so I'm not too worried.  Even so a little glue would fix it, if necessary.  I forgot how heavy the heatsink and fan are for the processor.  90% of the weight of the motherboard is all from that.  Since the motherboard is going to be vertical a majority of the time I need to make sure it's mounted very securely.

[GoingIncognito]

Update!  Been real busy and didn't have much time to work on the project, but the past week I had some free time so I finished finished mounting all the PC components to the  rear door.


I still have to wire everything up, but that's relatively easy and I was relatively lazy last night  .  There are three fans not shown in this picture as well.  One intake fan which will go on the right-hand side wall, one exhaust fan which will go on the left-hand side wall, and I may mount an additional smaller exhaust fan which will go on the top of the cabinet to pull rising heat out.  Most of the cabling will go along the right-hand side (the top of the picture as shown) where all the ports on the motherboard are.


Just a side view showing the motherboard standoffs and hard drive and power supply mounting brackets.  I used a small amount of Gorilla Glue in the holes that the standoffs were screwed into because I didn't think they would hold well by themselves since they were threaded for metal.  I screwed in the L-brackets for the power supply like I did to provide a little more leverage since the unit will be horizontal when the door is closed.  You can't see the support bracket on the rear side which will help hold the unit "down" and provide a place for the rear to rest when the door is folded down.


Close up of the hard drive mounting brackets.  I had to screw the L-brackets down underneath the hard drive due to space constraints, plus I think it looks nicer (yes, I shined a flashlight underneath for the picture).


Picture showing one of three "MacGyver Standoffs" I had to make since my motherboard had nine mounting points but I only had six standoffs.  I made the standoffs with a nylon spacing nut Gorilla Glued to a small washer (to add a smidge more height), which is then in turn glued down to the plywood with more Gorilla Glue.  After drying over night the bond was strong, and I was able to screw the mobo down using some appropriately sized screws.  These standoffs are virtually identical in height to the proper standoffs.


Here's the cabinet with monitor installed behind bezel, just missing the control panel.


Here's a rear shot of the cabinet with the door off (it's at my house!) showing the monitor on the shelf, and the space underneath.


Reworked button placement, everything should fit properly now.  Ignore the lack of the 7th button, it's there...just..uh, invisible!  The light tan area is the usable control panel space.  The control panel is actually bigger than the tan area, but can't really be used for placement of anything due to the bracing underneath the control panel.


Martoon worked up this render of the control panel using Rom's Character Fusion art that I like so much.  Nifty, huh?  Look, there's that 7th button!  It was previously invisible, but now is totally visible.  See!


Another big thanks to Martoon for letting me use his garage and for lending me his absolutely mad graphic skills .

[emphatic]

Nice work! 

[GoingIncognito]

Update!

Here's the control panel template being pieced together:



Here's the template having all drill and screw points center punched for drilling:


Drilling button holes:


Test fitting buttons:


I also mounted the rear door to the rest of cabinet and put all the buttons in the control panel to make sure everything fits nicely.  I didn't take pictures of it, but it sure looks nice !

[GoingIncognito]

Quick update!  Everything works!  I finished installing and wiring everything up (except for the two side "bumper" buttons) and gave everything a test drive with Donkey Kong.  It's so awesome!  Had some minor issues but I was able to work through everything.  Will post pics later, too busy having fun

[martoon x]

Quick update!  Everything works!  I finished installing and wiring everything up (except for the two side "bumper" buttons) and gave everything a test drive with Donkey Kong.  It's so awesome!  Had some minor issues but I was able to work through everything.  Will post pics later, too busy having fun

Picts or it didn't happen