My biggest arcade project so far: The building of gameroom "Level 42"

[ChadTower]

It should also be noted that in at least my area of the US you can't build a house with 18 or 24 between studs.  It has to be 16 or less.

[Level42]

And to make you real sick Level42, I can go buy an 18'x12' shed that looks like a house, have it delivered and leveled - all for about $3k. 

Oh, and no permits needed at all.

I can get prefab sheds here for a lot cheaper as well. And also no permit needed. You also get a concrete floor for it ?
This is custom so it's more expensive. And the floor consists quite a bit too.

[shardian]

Ahh, I didn't know if you all were allowed those sheds or not there.

Chad, it depends on who you buy them from. you will get raped on a shed from Home Depot/Lowes, and the quality will be low. They use 24" O/C studs.

I got quotes from an independent shed builder locally. His prices were much better, and he used 16" OC walls.

[FrizzleFried]

It should also be noted that in at least my area of the US you can't build a house with 18 or 24 between studs.  It has to be 16 or less.

Where do you live Chad?  I've heard of 18" or less (1.5') but never 16" or less...strange measurement.

Edit: nevermind...I am guessing when I say 18" I mean 16" because I've not accounted for the width of the stud itself...

[ChadTower]

Where do you live Chad?  I've heard of 18" or less (1.5') but never 16" or less...strange measurement.

Edit: nevermind...I am guessing when I say 18" I mean 16" because I've not accounted for the width of the stud itself...

Here they're built 16" on center, which is 16" from the center of one member to the center of the next. 

Shardian, I got mine from a custom shed builder, who had the walls prefabbed when they arrived but built the floor and roof on site.  Studs in there are 16" OC just like the house.  It's the 10x12 vinyl gambrel priced here from these guys.  Looking at this I'm actually a bit surprised, I'd have thought the price would be higher than $3k now based on the way inflation has been.  It's actually a little building you could live in if you insulated it.  Your quotes are pretty good if they're quoting you that big a shed at that price.

[patrickl]

I don't think there is any rule here about the center to center (we call it heart to heart) distance. Usually it's somewhere between 16" and 24" though.
They calculate the wood thickness according to how far you space the beams. Smaller distance means smaller beams.

[Level42]

I don't think there is any rule here about the center to center (we call it heart to heart) distance. Usually it's somewhere between 16" and 24" though.
They calculate the wood thickness according to how far you space the beams. Smaller distance means smaller beams.

Just talked about it with a friend who studies to become an architect and that was the very thing he mentioned, the distance depends on the thickness of the beams. Which sounds pretty logical.

Anyway, the sturdier, the better because it will house quite a value

[Neverending Project]

O and I put a plan of it in one of the first postings of this thread:
... pic removed ...

No pinballs? What about your Getaway?

[Level42]

Don't look at the "cabs" inside that drawing. Was just to get an idea about sizes etc.

Yes of course the Getaway will come in there.

[Ummon]

From what I've seen, it's usually 12 to 16" space, and the length of the cross section is the factor - so 2x10 or 12 or maybe 16. For main supports in areas, they'll pull out the 4-bys on up.

[Loafmeister]

Looks great but I can't have my wife see this, she'll want me to have one and move all my stuff from MY basement to outside in a shed!

Anyway, around here we don't often see a flat roof. Are these common over where you live? The idea behind our "pointy" alternative is because of all the #$%@%$@ snow we get 

[patrickl]

Looks great but I can't have my wife see this, she'll want me to have one and move all my stuff from MY basement to outside in a shed!

Anyway, around here we don't often see a flat roof. Are these common over where you live? The idea behind our "pointy" alternative is because of all the #$%@%$@ snow we get 

We don't get much snow in the Netherlands, but still that's also a reason why these constructions are designed a bit more sturdy than you would think it needs to be. It has to be able to carry a load of snow.

[Level42]

Looks great but I can't have my wife see this, she'll want me to have one and move all my stuff from MY basement to outside in a shed!

Anyway, around here we don't often see a flat roof. Are these common over where you live? The idea behind our "pointy" alternative is because of all the #$%@%$@ snow we get 

We don't get much snow in the Netherlands, but still that's also a reason why these constructions are designed a bit more sturdy than you would think it needs to be. It has to be able to carry a load of snow.

For sheds they're common but the prefab sheds often have pointy roofs. There are also plenty of houses that have flat roofs (my first house had a "flat" roof). There's always a slight slope because of letting run the water off of course.

My uncle and aunt live in Massachusetts and I've seen pictures of what amounts of snow they get sometimes. Believe me, we don't get those amounts ever. Still, you need some overdimensioning to be on the safe side. Maybe we build sturdier ? I've always wondered how a concrete constructed home would survive a hurricane like you have in some parts of the US.

[Blanka]

We calculate for a weather ballast of around 500 kg/m2. That should be sufficient for even the worst snow possible here. And in many regions in the Netherlands there's also a big wind force considered in the calculations. These can be negative too! Guess mr. Level42 will need most construction steel in the foundation  though

[Level42]

Talked with the guys this morning and they quickly solved the "mystery". The beams are only 30cm. apart because the Keralit requires to be mounted every 30 cm.

If it would have been a wooden cladding, they would have used a lot fewer beams and more space between them.

[ChadTower]

I've always wondered how a concrete constructed home would survive a hurricane like you have in some parts of the US.

They often don't.  With a hurricane the object is to have the superstructure remain intact but the roof/siding/etc aren't really designed to stay on.  It's more economical to let the superficial parts rip off and then replace them.  The real danger from hurricanes isn't always the wind, it's the flooding that often comes with them, as you saw in New Orleans and you see all the time in Florida.  No construction technique is going to save a house from 10' of water.

[Level42]

Was home early today.....and they're finished !





The roof is done as well:


The doors will be painted in the same color red as the doors of my home. That will give a nice "break" to the overall grey look...

I'm quite pleased with the color we chose. It looks nice and at least isn't "trying to be wood".

Now it's my turn. Need to install the electricity than they can finish the inside with isolation and inside walls.....

[Blanka]

Nice minimalist box! It looks more deep on the picture from above than on the plan. Did your back-neighbours build the same volume against yours?

[FrizzleFried]

Is the roof complete?  What is the materials being used?  While the photo above gives the appearance of a "canvas" type roof,  I am sure that isn't the case?   How does the rain/snow drain?  The prior building appeared to be a simple lean-to type building with an angled roof...this doesn't appear to be angled plus there seems to be about a 3" lip around the top of the roof.  I assume there is a drain?

[ChadTower]

I'm assuming the roof isn't done yet and he means the walls.

[Blanka]

That's just a normal bitumen-roof (sort of asphalt sheets). It is finished. The drain is the thing on the left, the pipe it should connect too is not there yet.

[Level42]

Nice minimalist box! It looks more deep on the picture from above than on the plan. Did your back-neighbours build the same volume against yours?

Yes indeed. They had built it before me.

[Level42]

That's just a normal bitumen-roof (sort of asphalt sheets). It is finished. The drain is the thing on the left, the pipe it should connect too is not there yet.

Yup ! The water runs of towards the frontside because the roof is slightly sloped. There's no need for a really big angle.

I'm amazed you guys don't know this type of roofing. The stuff comes in rolls. It's rolled out and they are overlapping. Then the bitumen is melted by using a torch. This is the most common way of roofing flat roofs overhere.

[Blanka]

Did you annexate the back alley with the sheds?

[Level42]

Is the roof complete?  What is the materials being used?  While the photo above gives the appearance of a "canvas" type roof,  I am sure that isn't the case?   How does the rain/snow drain?  The prior building appeared to be a simple lean-to type building with an angled roof...this doesn't appear to be angled plus there seems to be about a 3" lip around the top of the roof.  I assume there is a drain?

You can see the holes of the drains on my neighbors roof (he has two, left and right) in his "front lip"....

[Level42]

Did you annexate the back alley with the sheds?

Oh, no no, there's no back alley behind my property or my back neighbors. To the right of my new shed, that neighbor also does not have a back alley, actually the alley for the other homes ends at his garden/yard.

Even in het Nederlands: Het brandpad loopt dus tot en met de tuin van mijn buren aan de rechterkant van mijn huis. Zoals je hebt kunnen zien heb ik een hoekwoning en wij kunnen dus in de tuin komen langs het huis. Scheelt weer een paar meter   Dit soort brandgangen voorkomt doorloop en inbrekers zijn er ook niet gek op dat ze maar 1 kant uit kunnen vluchten....)

[shilmover]

Even in het Nederlands: Het brandpad loopt dus tot en met de tuin van mijn buren aan de rechterkant van mijn huis. Zoals je hebt kunnen zien heb ik een hoekwoning en wij kunnen dus in de tuin komen langs het huis. Scheelt weer een paar meter   Dit soort brandgangen voorkomt doorloop en inbrekers zijn er ook niet gek op dat ze maar 1 kant uit kunnen vluchten....)

Easy for you to say!   

[Kevin Mullins]

Hehe ... yeah them burglars would get back in there and be caught playing games....
 

[ChadTower]

That roof definitely would not work here in MA.  Our roofs have to bear a lot of weight and have steeper angles.  Gotta watch your step around the soffits in March or you could end up with a huge blob of melting snow on your head.

[Kevin Mullins]

I see that style roof mostly on commercial buildings and such.
Definitely check the seams periodically after winter and whatnot. The seams may lift if any water gets under there just a bit and then freezes. (the power of mother nature) Should be great for awhile, but will require some maintenance or better yet preventive measures like sealing the seams periodically. Not like every year or anything, but something to keep in mind maybe.

[Level42]

Don't worry, if a professional guy does the roofing, it's leak-free guaranteed for at least 10 years.
But indeed, it won't last for eternity. Then again, nothing does....

Did you Babelfish the Dutch Kevin ? I just did and it's always a good laugh what Engrish it comes up with 

[HaRuMaN]

Engrish, yes, but at least you can get the gist...

[Kevin Mullins]

Did you Babelfish the Dutch Kevin ? I just did and it's always a good laugh what Engrish it comes up with 

eh ... My lovely assistant  interpreted for me.

[Ummon]

There's actually a type of composite roofing of, I think, metal and rubber or something that isn't extraordinarily expensive that's guaranteed for 40 years and supposed to last a hundred. It comes in sheets that sort of lock together similar to siding, and are nailed in place, and locks out moisture. As well, I bet there are basic construction methods that would defy water and many things - but with anything it is still 'it has to break as no turnover would mean no generation of income for many', though this WILL change in the coming decades.

[orion]

It's been eight days and no updates!  A lot can happen in eight days.....

[Level42]

It's been eight days and no updates!  A lot can happen in eight days.....

I do apologize. It basically comes down to having no time for it

Tomorrow ! I got ALL day tomorrow ! I love ya' tomorrow, you're only a day away !....

Electricity is what we need !

I've been puzzling on how to do the wiring.  I first thought about using the wireless remote control things you stick into a wall-outlet. But they have too many drawbacks: - not 100% reliable, they stick out of the wall too much, need for remote controls that get lost and loose battery power. I also thought about a clever set-up with relays controlled by 24V that switch the mains (230VAC) power. But that would be too clumsy.
So, now I decided to get two (or three) of these:



They have Euro plugs on the backside:


The box can handle plenty of power (in total and per output) and it has a fuse to boot !

I will wire up three-conductor wire to each output and lead those through the roof and the walls. Install wall-outlet boxes:


and a wall-outlet inside:


So, every wall-outlet will have it's own switch. I will have 16 (or 24) switches/walloutlets. I can also wire up the neons and other lighting this way. Probably the most compact way to have so many mains switches together at one point.

[Neverending Project]

Why spare any expense now? Flush-mount a touch-screen in the wall connected to a very inexpensive computer (also hidden). Plug in a Pac-Drive or LED-Wiz and connect each of the outputs to a relay, which are in turn wired to the outlets for each arcade machine. Install a front-end on the PC with a custom game list and a nice marquee and snapshot of each of your games. And then instead of launching MAME, the front-end would simply tell the pac-drive to turn the game on.

Can't you see it? You just walk into your arcade, swipe your finger a couple of times, and your games come to life! Bonus points for having the touch-screen also control the sound system and HVAC. It's so simlpe, why haven't you done it already? 

[Level42]

 

I prefer to spend the money that would be required for a system like that on something like.......uhhhhmmmm, a Joust cab ? 

[orion]

I don't know if you have anything similar in Europe but I use this product.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=70591-334-274W-SP-L&lpage=none

Of course it won't provide you a central location to turn off and on your games from, but it is simple and cheap. I do like your solution, it's rather clever. Oh and thanks for the updates! I have been a long time lurker and enjoying your posts for a few years now... you always provide so much detail, keep up the good work! 

[Level42]

Yeah we have similar set-ups here too (although not common), but I want to mount the wall-outlets pretty close to the floor. Also it would be hard to reach between the cabs (IF I have enough space to leave any room between them !) to flick the switch. Also, lots of machines have the power switch on the lower back so impossible to reach. So that's why I was looking for a way to centrally switch the cabs.

Thanks for your kind words. I sometimes feel I'm "over doing" it but I enjoy it as well and I always hope there are "lurkers" like you who follow the threads. I think the hit numbers indicate that quite a number of people enjoy reading it