Punch-Out!! restoration (Complete!!) - new bezel!

[Spyridon]

Started working on restoring my Punch-Out!!. 

The game is in working condition, but will undergo the following treatment:

Cap both monitors (bad foldover on the top of the bottom monitor)
New side art (none on it currently)
New CPO
Paint or laminate the sides (if I can find the correct formica, I'll go that route otherwise I'll paint)
Remove (or replace) scratches in the bezel
Replace black t-molding with white t-molding
Remove batteries from board

Here is what I started with...

[Spyridon]

First step was to work on the control panel.

Before and After


And now the details:

The old overlay pulled off without too much trouble

I used Citristrip to take off the residual adhesive and then sandpaper to remove the rust spots.


After removing the rust spots, I hit it with a coat of metal primer

CPO came from Quarter Arcade


I used a dremel to shine up the carrige bolts and cleaned the buttons with some dish detergent and water

[Spyridon]

Next up was to remove the monitors, speakers, marquee, etc to get it ready for painting.  I'm going to check on some options for formica tomorrow, but if I don't find a good option, I'll go with paint.

[ChadTower]

w00t Punchout!  Good choice.  CP looks great now.

[Ginsu Victim]

Lookin' good!

[robstraws]

I almost bought one of these a few months back.  Wish I had the guy only wanted 150 bucks.  Nice Cp!

[Spyridon]

Moved the game into the garage today for painting.  I checked a few stores and they didn't have black formica in stock, so I'm going to go with paint.

Used bondo to fill in some holes:

[Spyridon]

Sanded the bondo smooth:

[2600]

When you get to the paint, could you do some really close shots?  One possibly with a reflection of something basically touching the cabinet?

I got some samples of the laminate and for my PO, polished finish is the correct texture, but may be a bit too reflective.

Looking good so far, this is really motivating me to finish mine.

[Spyridon]

When you get to the paint, could you do some really close shots?  One possibly with a reflection of something basically touching the cabinet?

Sure.

[Spyridon]

Cab masked off and ready for painting:


I didn't go with a primer coat on this one based on some recommendations from someone who has repainted a lot of Nintendo cabs.  Here is the first coat of black paint. 





Oil based paint is a pain to clean up, but it sure does look good when dry.

[2600]

HVLP sprayer I assume or did you roll it?  What brand paint and sheen did you end up choosing?

[Spyridon]

HVLP sprayer I assume or did you roll it? 

Yes, I used a HVLP sprayer.  I don't think I can go back to rollers after using this.

What brand paint and sheen did you end up choosing?

I used Rustoleum satin black paint.

[Spyridon]

I used some 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out the surface then applied a second coat of black paint.




I'll look at it tomorrow when it is dry and determine if it needs a third or if it is ready to go.  If it needs a third coat, I'll use some 600 grit sandpaper prior to the paint going on.

[Spyridon]

Okay, today I put on the third and final coat of paint.  I used 600 grit sandpaper prior to applying the paint.  This worked really well and I ended up with a beautiful finish.  I'm very happy with the results.  Clean up is a pain with oil based paints, but I can't argue with the nice results you get.





And to cut down on the number of clean ups, I have been doing a two for one special...

[WunderCade]

Nice looking paint job. I've always shied away from oil paints and have never used them through an HVLP sprayer. Did you use the same process as with the GORF blue, but instead used acetone to thin?

And finally, looking at the results on both cabs, can you compare and contrast how you think the oil paint out performs, result-wise.....the water-based paints? Thanks.

[Spyridon]

Nice looking paint job. I've always shied away from oil paints and have never used them through an HVLP sprayer. Did you use the same process as with the GORF blue, but instead used acetone to thin?

Yes, same process but acetone instead of water to thin.  Also, it took a lot less to thin it out than the latex paint, so you aren't diluting the color as much.

And finally, looking at the results on both cabs, can you compare and contrast how you think the oil paint out performs, result-wise.....the water-based paints? Thanks.

The oil paint seems to go on smoother than the water based paints.  It seems easier to get a perfectly smooth result.  That being said, the results with the latex paint was still very good.  The Rustoleum black paint seems to be a very good choice for black cabs and I would recommend going with it, however, I think for any other color I would still probably go with a latex paint because it is just so much easier to work with.

[DarkKobold]

Are you in Salt Lake City? I swear I just saw this machine for sale...

[Level42]

Your threads inspired me to buy a compressor yesterday. Planning to do some spray painting for my cabs. Need to get a spray gun like that....

[WunderCade]

Great Andre...that means you'll be able to sandblast as well. Which is way cool for metal parts...can't beat it.

[Spyridon]

Your threads inspired me to buy a compressor yesterday. Planning to do some spray painting for my cabs. Need to get a spray gun like that....

Nice.  You won't be dissapointed.  And like WunderCade said above, definitely look into sandblasting.  (see my Gorf thread for details on the cabinet)

[Spyridon]

Are you in Salt Lake City? I swear I just saw this machine for sale...

Nope.  Pennsylvania. 

[Level42]

Great Andre...that means you'll be able to sandblast as well. Which is way cool for metal parts...can't beat it.

HA, I hadn't even thought about that yet !

I will need a good and compact sandblasting box though....don't have too much space for it :S

[MaximRecoil]

Nope.  Pennsylvania. 

That figures, PA is like Grand Central Station for Punch-Out machines.

Do you have a closer picture of the underside of your KO button? It looks different than what I am used to seeing, but that may be an illusion from the low resolution picture.

Nice job so far BTW; the paint and CPO look great.

[Spyridon]

That figures, PA is like Grand Central Station for Punch-Out machines.

Yeah, I've seen several in PA.  I wasn't even looking for one and this one showed up on Craigslist close to me for a great price.  Couldn't pass it up.

Do you have a closer picture of the underside of your KO button? It looks different than what I am used to seeing, but that may be an illusion from the low resolution picture.

Probably just looks different from the photo.  I'll take a close up and post it.

Nice job so far BTW; the paint and CPO look great.

Thanks for the compliments. 

[Spyridon]

Do you have a closer picture of the underside of your KO button? It looks different than what I am used to seeing, but that may be an illusion from the low resolution picture.

Here you go

[Spyridon]

Moved the game out of the garage and into the basement/gameroom.  Started to reassemble the parts.

Put the speakers back in place

Nintendo serial number plate back on the back

Grills back in place as well


I polished the marquee with Novus #1 and then put it back on the cab

[Spyridon]

I took the coin door apart in preparation for painting it.


On one of the coin reject buttons I'm missing the cover piece (middle item in picture below)

Anyone know where to get replacements for these?

[MaximRecoil]

Do you have a closer picture of the underside of your KO button? It looks different than what I am used to seeing, but that may be an illusion from the low resolution picture.

Here you go

Okay, thanks.

Yeah, that's normal. The smaller picture made it look different, and I wondered if a new version of the KO button had been discovered.

[jow]

Looks good, ace.

Looking forward to the finished product.

[WunderCade]

Nice to see you made it over to the "other spot". Welcome Jow.

That black finish looks good Spyridon, how did the sides turn out close up?

[Spyridon]

Looks good, ace.

Looking forward to the finished product.

Hey Jow.  So it took a Punch-Out!! restore to bring you over here.  Welcome!

[Spyridon]

That black finish looks good Spyridon, how did the sides turn out close up?

It game out pretty nice.  It doesn't have that baked on hardened look that the original had, but I like it.  I'll try and take a close up pic of the paint.

[Spyridon]

I used a drill with a wire wheel on it to strip the paint and rust off of the coin door.  It's actually a faster process than when I used the sandblaster on the Gorf coin door.  I was really surprised on how easy it was to strip down.

Upper door:



Lower door:

[ChadTower]

I will need a good and compact sandblasting box though....don't have too much space for it :S

Adapt a plastic storage bin... then when you're not using it you can store stuff in it.  Double usage saves space.

[jow]

Looks good, ace.

Looking forward to the finished product.

Hey Jow.  So it took a Punch-Out!! restore to bring you over here.  Welcome!

Thank you, good sir.  It seems we are lacking in the resto thread dept "over there".  I have been enjoying this one, and all the other one's on this board.  My Punch-Out is currently not working, but once she's up and running, I too will resto it.  Im def taking notes.

[Spyridon]

My Punch-Out is currently not working, but once she's up and running, I too will resto it.  Im def taking notes.

Do the cab restore now before you get it working.  Once you get it working, you know you won't want to stop playing.

[Spyridon]

Painted the coin door using Rustoleum Textured black paint

Here is a shot while still wet:

And when dry:

I'm really happy  with the way it turned out.

I also used a dremel with a wire wheel attachment to shine up the coin return cover.
Here you can see the difference between the one I worked on (left) and the untouched one (right):

I also polished them when complete.  Here are both of the finished products:

[Spyridon]

Coin door installed back into the cab:


I also added a lock to the back of the cab:


Since I already had two locks on the front coin doors that used the same key, I wanted the back door lock to also use the same key to open it.  I followed the tutorial over at Arcade Restoration Workshop on how to key all the locks to same.  I used an old lock I removed from a Robotron and I only needed to remove one tumbler to make it work


To end the weekend, I installed the white t-molding.  Sure makes a big difference.

[ChadTower]

That is some fine work.