Scratch-built Cab Design Help

[XyloSesame]

After receiving help and advice regarding CPs, chopping cabs vs. building from scratch, avatars, and more, I'd now appreciate any feedback regarding overall cab design.

I've bandied about with a number of designs and ideas, and have finally settled on one inspired by Knievel's Woody, incorporating classic curves from Galaga machines. Because of space restrictions in my older home and the Wife Approval Factor, I'll need to build a skinny rather than a full-size cabinet.

The red color is only applied to help show the lines and detail of the model; I've not settled on a color or design for the finished cab. Four dedicated Admin buttons are on the bezel area, I have a functional coin door on the way, and most of the controls have already been purchased. I'm using a spare 19" LCD and my old FrankenPuter for the guts.

Rough dimensions:
Footprint: 23"W x 17"D
Height: 67"
Height to CP: 37"
CP: 29"W x 14"D

I'm not sure if I'm sold on the idea of an angular CP panel, but I think it's primarily finished in design... Any opinions or advice before I build a mock-CP or take the saw to wood?

[javeryh]

I like it.  The CP shape looks complicated (angles - noooooo!!!!) but if you are a good woodworker then I say go for it!  Also, have you given any thought in using Ultimarc 360s for the joysticks and ditching the dedicated 4-way?  (even though you already ordered parts...)

[XyloSesame]

I like it.  The CP shape looks complicated (angles - noooooo!!!!) but if you are a good woodworker then I say go for it!  Also, have you given any thought in using Ultimarc 360s for the joysticks and ditching the dedicated 4-way?  (even though you already ordered parts...)

I have, and would love to do so. Actually, the 4-Way and spinner are the only parts I lack.

Unfortunately, I can't justify (to myself or my wife) spending $30 on a stick vs. $7. I'm hoping, after this thing is built and I have to bribe my wife to stop playing, that she'll relent and I'll redesign the CP top to lose the dedicated and accommodate a u360.

Besides, I have to put a spinner somewhere - why not use the space and keep a dedicated 4-way?

[DaveMMR]

I like it!  I like it a lot!  Yeah, the angles are going to make construction a little more complicated, but I don't think it's anything overwhelming.  And, seriously, I think skinny (or classic sized) cabs are much better looking than the full-sized, floor eating cabinets.   Just don't put Prince on the side of your cabinet.   

And let me help you justify the Ultrasticks - they not only replace your 4-way (in function, not feel), but also diagonal 4-ways, analogue sticks, 2-ways, and 49-ways.  Yes, they are more money, but their versatility cannot be matched.  I justified their cost by making them a Christmas gift.  And the holiday season is right around the corner.... 

But all in all, I'm excited to see how it turns out. 

[XyloSesame]

And let me help you justify the Ultrasticks - they not only replace your 4-way (in function, not feel), but also diagonal 4-ways, analogue sticks, 2-ways, and 49-ways.  Yes, they are more money, but their versatility cannot be matched.

Dagnabbit, I'm about to buckle under all of this peer pressure.

No, not to change my avatar, but to buy some u360's.

Now I need to see if I can recoup the costs of the Supers and Ultimates I've accumulated through bulk-auctions and on the BST forum...

But the question remains: If I get rid of the dedicated 4-way and map P1/P2 buttons for Asteroids, where do I stick my knob (spinner knob, that is)?

[_) (V) (-)]

where do I stick my knob

I wouldn't have asked that around here...

 


But I like the design, hope it turns out as planned. It'll be very sharp!

[XyloSesame]

The CP shape looks complicated (angles - noooooo!!!!) but if you are a good woodworker then I say go for it!

Yeah, the angles are going to make construction a little more complicated, but I don't think it's anything overwhelming.

The angles will be complicated, and they kinda scare me. I've only got a theater scene shop in which to work, not a full-on woodworking setup. And I'm only used to building facades and sets using luan and scrap lumber. I am in no way an experienced woodworker.

I know how hard it can be to build a plain old regular box and get everything plumb, and this CP has a 5 degree slope from the back to front with sides angled at 25 degrees. When I get down to construction, I'll be posting in the Woodworking forum; however, should I just jettison the angled CP for a simpler design? Do you think it will just be a source of frustration and delay? What would you all do?

[brock.sampson]

That looks awesome.  I would probably lean towards the U360s as well.  When I rebuild my cp I will definitely incorporate those.  My current cp is based on Knievel's design minus the dedicated 4 way.  My brother in law gets a little zealous when playing golden tee and has smacked the spinner on several occasions.  If you play golden tee, bowling, shuuz, shuffleshot I would consider your spinner placement carefully maybe go a little more to the left or right.  I would go for the angled cp.  It will certainly take more time then building a square box but in my opinion that is part of the fun.  If nothing else it will be a learning opportunity.  You can always skip over to the wood working forum if you run into problems.

[bfauska]

That is a great looking design.

The CP shape is a good part of the design and I think that if you made it a rectangle it would loose some of it's charm.  You could get rid of all the compound angle cuts by keeping the shape of the top of the (plan view) and then instead of having the bottom of the CP box sit level and the top at an angle, make the top and bottom parallel to each other and mount it at an angle.  That way you only have to rip the front, back and sides of the cp to their height, cut the appropriate angles on the ends with a chop saw and assemble. 

I think the dedicated 4-way is a perfectly acceptable solution, but I only have 4/8 way switchers now and think I'm looking forward to GGG's SLOWLY approaching 49ways.  The only modification I'd look into for your design (other than simplifying the CP angle) is the depth of the CP, find out what the deepest components you'll be using are and go as thin as possible with the box, it looks to "heavy"(not physically, aesthetically) right now (I think.)

I look forward to following your progress whatever way you go, and enjoy what seems to be a subtle sense of humor hiding in your posts.

< >

Not all theatre scene shops are "Just" theatre scene shops Our shop at the Seattle Rep is fairly well equipped  , although it allowed me to earn 4 stitches yesterday.
</  >   

OOPS, that probably sounded defensive, I spend too much time dealing with people who don't think I know anything about building because "ALL" I build is theatre sets.  Two shows from now we're putting 30,000 gallons of water in a custom built pool on stage (actually IN the stage, but you get the point.)

I probably said it in a PM previously, but welcome to the forum and I'm sure you'll find several of us theatre folk hiding around here.

[XyloSesame]

I spend too much time dealing with people who don't think I know anything about building because "ALL" I build is theatre sets.  Two shows from now we're putting 30,000 gallons of water in a custom built pool on stage (actually IN the stage, but you get the point.)

Understood RE theatre and set design. But believe me, we do shoestring and improvisational set building 'round here (read: scenic dumpster diving), so I fear my skills are waaay off base for a project of this magnitude. But that won't stop me from trying...

[superbigjay]

The angles will be complicated, and they kinda scare me. I've only got a theater scene shop in which to work, not a full-on woodworking setup. And I'm only used to building facades and sets using luan and scrap lumber. I am in no way an experienced woodworker.

I know how hard it can be to build a plain old regular box and get everything plumb, and this CP has a 5 degree slope from the back to front with sides angled at 25 degrees. When I get down to construction, I'll be posting in the Woodworking forum; however, should I just jettison the angled CP for a simpler design? Do you think it will just be a source of frustration and delay? What would you all do?

Hello XyloSesame, an easy way to do those angles, but that will generate a lot of dust, is to use 2 or more layers of MDF and sand it down to the shape you want.

I did this for my CP with my belt sanders and it worked pretty well.

Also, those angled edges don't have to be perfect since they are not really aligned with other pieces...
They only have to look straight.

I'm including 2 pics to show what I mean...

A bit more info in my thread if you need it...
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=64434.msg702659#msg702659

[leapinlew]

Hello XyloSesame, an easy way to do those angles, but that will generate a lot of dust, is to use 2 or more layers of MDF and sand it down to the shape you want.

I did this for my CP with my belt sanders and it worked pretty well.

Also, those angled edges don't have to be perfect since they are not really aligned with other pieces...
They only have to look straight.

I'm including 2 pics to show what I mean...

A bit more info in my thread if you need it...
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=64434.msg702659#msg702659

Very nice work. 

[DaveMMR]

Don't fear the angles!

I have not once built anything but I was able to effectively get the angles on my cabinet looking the way they are supposed to look (we're talking like weird 30 degree angles on the cabinet top -- see: Centipede).  If you plan it out ahead of time on paper with a decent protractor, you'll be able to do much better than me.  Besides, wood's very forgiving and you can be a little off and call in the sandpaper/bondo brigade.

[XyloSesame]

OK, I promise this will be more than just on paper, and I apologize if everyone is getting sick of me...

I'm rethinking the CP in order to remove most, if not all, overhang. I've managed to squeeze the design into a 24" frame which will allow me to modify my cab to accommodate the entire panel width. I'll need to router the sides of the panel to fit the P1 and 4 way sticks, but I think it's doable. Still can't afford those U360s, but I do hope to spring for a TT2 with 7" wheel...

I hope to get a mock completed within the next week, but before then, the question is: will a 24" be too cramped for two? Has anyone played a cab with a dedicated 4-way above the P2 buttons (I have had trouble finding pics of one), or is this just stupid?

Thanks again to everyone...

[Green Giant]

Dagnabbit, I'm about to buckle under all of this peer pressure.

No, not to change my avatar, but to buy some u360's.

Come on, jump on the bandwagon.  Everybodies doing it.

Think of it this way, especially for your wife, at $60 a joystick, $120 for two, lets assume you are gonna keep this cab for 10 years.  That only costs you $1 a month.  Spice things up and tell her just 99 cents a month, thats all.

Trust me, if you are thinking about it now, it will only get worse you will will end up buying it along with the parts you won't need when you get the U360's.