O'Boyle's Arcade - by the "book"

[Spyridon]

First time builder here!  I was originally inspired by picking up an original Tron Joystick off of eBay.  The plan was to build a Frankenpanel that can play every game imaginable.  I've been following the posts in these forums for a few months and picked up Saint's book several weeks ago.  Spending time in both of those areas gave me time to rethink the giant panel to the point that I decided to scale down a bit on my first try (and build a rotating panel on my second try  ).

I continue to be incredibly impressed by the workmanship being displayed out here.  I'm also amazed at how helpful everyone has been to my random questions I've posted here and there.

So here we go...

I've been following the plans in the Project Arcade book.

[Spyridon]

Now it's time for cutting.  Having never really used any power tools, I did what everyone in this forum does...bought myself a whole new set up tools (I better make more than one cabinet to justify that)    .

After cutting out the first side, I used it as a template for side two.  Then I clamped them together and sanded down so they were both equal.

(This cutting thing is not as hard as it looks - all fingers still intact)

I then used a router (Yes, another new toy) to cut out the slot for the t-modling.  This part was easy, I'm a little worried on how to use the router when I get to the control panel part.

[Spyridon]

Okay, everything is cut except for the control panel.  I had a hard time finding 5/8" MDF.  I cut one out of the 3/4" MDF as a test panel, but need to find a location to get the 5/8"

I drew out the locations for the support braces on the bottom and glued/screwed it all together.

I had some issues with the 3" casters as I tried using 4 swivel ones.  I though I had them in the correct spot, but once I tested it out, some swivelling the wrong way and hitting the braces.  I picked up some different casters and went with fixed ones on the back and swivel on the front.  Much better.

[Spyridon]

Now it's time to start assembling the sides.  I used some of the parts I cut to support the top end since the size matched up.  Nothing too special here, just trying to keep everything level.  Glue and screws for all the connections.  Again, I followed the book and tried to limit the amount of screws in the outside of the cabinet.  The book said to use 2x2 pieces of wood for the supports, but I accidentaly purchased 1 inch wide pieces.  I decided that they would still work and used them.

[Spyridon]

Now it's really starting to look like something.  I installed the marquee section, back sections and the monitor shelf.

Again, I'd like to point out that I have no woodworking experience prior to this.  This just proves that anyone can build one of these if they really try.  (Of course, I recommend having the Project Arcade book if it is your first)

The big dillemma I haven't solved yet is what type of monitor to use.  TV, PC Monitor, Arcade Monitor  .  I'd like to go with the 27" Vision Pro from Happ, but last time I checked I think is was running aroun $450.  Suggestions would be appreciated.

[Spyridon]

Next on the list is the coin door.  Again, I followed the recommendations in the book and used the hole saw to cut out the four corners.  Next I used the jigsaw (again, gotta love the new toys) to cut our the main section.  After test fitting and triming some areas that were a little off, it fit in nicely.

I also mounted to coin door using Euro style hinges.  I had a problem with the top one at first.  I thought I had everything lined up right, but it turned out to be way off.  I tried to adjust it in the same spot, but couldn't get it right with the first set of holes.  I was able to drop it down lower and reinstall.   The door still wasn't perfect, but I was able to sand down the sides a bit to get it to line up.  When you are not a perfect carpenter, a power sander can do wonders!

[Spyridon]

 

Yeah, I know I just toasted myself, but I'm really pleased with the results.  I know it doesn't compare to some of the amazing things I've seen on these forums, but everytime I look at it I get to say..."Yeah, I built that"!!!!!

That pretty much brings you up to date on where I'm at.  Unfortunately, this is usually just a weekend project and only weekends where I'm not already booked with a full schedule.  I'ts going to take some time to finish, but I'll get there.

Next on the list:

Cut our speaker holes (still determining which speakers I'm going to use)
Fill in screw holes with wood putty
Sand prime and paing
Cut out control panel (I was able to special order 5/8" MDF from a local lumber yard)

[Spyridon]

I did come up with a layout for the control panel.  My original plan was to build this as a Galaga (my all time favorite game) replica.  However, two weeks ago I purchased my first original arcade machine.  A fully working Galaga!  It need some work, but is in pretty good shape.  I've already acquired new artwork and new control panel for it.  The restoration is for a future post.

(This hobby gets addicting quick)

I had already started on a modified Galaga CPO (Thanks AtomSmasher for the inspiration), so I just decided to add some additional items to it.  I used the layout in the book with the following controls:

2 - 8 way joysticks
1 - 4 way joystick
1 - spinner
1 - trackball
enough buttons for two players

[Spyridon]

I sent the artwork off to mamemarquees to get printed.  I also orderd side art and a customized "O'Boyle's Arcade" marquee.

Now that really brings you up to date with the progress. 

The picture below is my test print on top of the control panel I cut from the 3/4" MDF.  I will use this panel to practice using the router.

[Green Giant]

Looking great so far.  Used the book on mine and it worked out great for me too.

A few pointers.  On that control panel, you need to move the spinner and 4way away from the center.  You will end up smashing your fingers on golden tee.  Also, you might think about getting rid of the middle mouse button and spreading out the left and right. 

For your monitor, get a tv.  Search craigslist every day until you find a 27" with component input.  That will give you probably the closest thing to an actual arcade monitor for $100.

Otherwise, keep up the good work and keep taking pictures.  You really only need one more weekend to finish the construction, then comes artwork, setting up your computer, choosing a frontend, setting up your emulators, testing it, playing it, making changes, repeat.

[leapinlew]

 

Lookin good bud!

[javeryh]

Wow - awesome job so far!   

[Spyridon]

Today I was able to cut out the holes for the speakers.  I wasn't sure what speakers I was going to use until yesterday when I picked up a set of Klipsch 2.1 speakers on eBay.  Since these were the same ones used in the book, I was able to use the provided templates.

[Spyridon]

I was also able to get the control panel cut out of the 5/8" MDF.  I used the one I had cut out previously in the 3/4" MDF as a template.  Once cut out, I used the router to cut out the slot for the t-molding.  The slot is not in the center, but that is because this will have a piece of 1/8" plexiglass over it.

[Donkey_Kong]

Now it's time for cutting.  Having never really used any power tools, I did what everyone in this forum does...bought myself a whole new set up tools

Wow, I'm very impressed especially because of the fact that you never really used power tools prior to this project. Looking at the results so far, that would be very hard to guess.

Good luck on the rest of the project.

[Spyridon]

Thanks for the compliments.  I'm really pleased with the way this is turning out.  I probably won't get much if anything else done on it this week as I'm going on vacation for a few days.

[Spyridon]

A few pointers.  On that control panel, you need to move the spinner and 4way away from the center.  You will end up smashing your fingers on golden tee.  Also, you might think about getting rid of the middle mouse button and spreading out the left and right. 

Good advice.  I think I will drop the middle mouse button as I don't think it will get much use.  I'll take a look and see if I can spread out the spinner and 4 way.  I'm thinking about droping both coin buttons and just using the coin door for credits.  More realistic that way anyway.  If I do that, I should have some more real estate to work with.  Problem is, I don't think I will be able to move the 4 way too much as the 8 way will start to get in the way.

[Spyridon]

Artwork arrived in the mail today from Mamemarquees.  Control panel and marquee look great.  I'm a little disapointed with the side art.  The quality of the material is fine, but some of the characters are not the highest quality.  Looked better in the small picture on the website. 

[Spyridon]

Today I started to sand down the putty I put in the counter sunk screws.  My question is how much putty should I sand away?  Should I leave only the putty only in the circular screw area like this...



or leave more putty around it like this...? 




Another question.  I'm going to be painting soon and was wondering what grit sandpaper to use between coats?  I'm planning on two coats of primer and 2 to 3 coats of semi-gloss latex paint.

[Spyridon]

Began assembly on the control panel box.  First I test fit all of the control panel pieces together.  I had to redo the back piece as I messed it up when I went to cut the 45 degree angle.  I tried to use a jigsaw and it just wasn't happening.  I then decided to give the router a try.  What a sweet instrument that is!  Worked like a charm.



I then glued and screwed the front and sides onto the base.




Next step was to apply some putty to the counter sunk screws.




That's as far as I was able to get tonight.  Next step is to install the wood blocks that will be used to seal the top on.  I will be putting a strip of velcro on each of these.



And finally, here it is in its current state.  It's really starting to look like something!   



I have black t-molding for this unit, but I purchased that when I was originally going to do a Galaga themed unit.  Now that I seem to have a blue theme going, I'm thinking about ordering some blue t-molding as I've seen some nice looking units with it (i.e.  Knieval).

I'm off to California for a few days to visit wine country so I won't be able to do anymore for a few days. 

[Spyridon]

Okay, it's been a while, but my work space was consumbed by a kitchen remodel I had going on.  Now that it is done, I'm back to work.  The time away from the cab did give me some time to work on the computer setup.  Mala is a wonderful thing!

Here is where we are now...

With construction mostly complete, it was time to prime and paint.  I used a white latex primer


Started with the bottom


Then moved on to the main cab

[Spyridon]

I needed to secure the control panel top to the base, so I used the method in the book (as I did for the entire build) and glued/screwed velcro covered blocks to the top and base. 





I used a couple of finishing nails to make sure the velcro stayed in place

[Spyridon]

Primed the control panel unit.

I was just going to do the bottom edges of the control panel but once I got going I did the entire bottom.  I did not paint the top.




I used two coats of primer on the cabinet and sanded after each application

[Spyridon]

Here it is after the second coat of primer

[Spyridon]

Next was two coats of semi gloss black paint.  Again, I sanded the first coat down before applying the second coat.







I left the area inside the marquee white.  I thought it would reflect the light better than if I painted it black (that and you wouldn't see it anyway on the completed unit)

[Spyridon]

Yesterday I ordered the Nova Matrix LED marquee light from GGG.  I can't wait to start putting the guts into this cab. 

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=307

Now it's time for the difficult part (at least for me) working on the control panel.

First I cut a sheet of Lexan to fit.  I used 5/8" MDF for the control panel so the Lexan will bring me up to 3/4" and the t-molding will fit nicely.





...and that brings you up to date with the progress.  I plan to start cutting the holes in the control panel this weekend.  I need to figure out how to use the router on the joystick and trackball cutouts.  My first ever router use was the slot cuts for the t-molding, which went really well.  This will be a bit more of a challenge.  I'll just work on a practice piece until I figure it out. 

[superbigjay]

Hello Spyridon,

congrats on your project (and your new power tools!!).

The project is progressing well 

Jay

[Anubis_au]

Awesome build. Good luck with it. Gives me hope that I too can knock out a decent cab.

[GAtekwriter]

You're just a bit ahead of me - I'm working on the front door right now then prime and paint.  I'm doing my search for the monitor (thinking 25-26" TV) and prepping for the Control Panel layout.  Enjoying reading your reports, so please keep it up!

Great work...

Jim

[solid187]

I would rethink using Lexan.  It scratches much too easily.  Plexi is the way to go.  Great work so far...keep it up.  Can't wait to see the final cab. 

[ha-Y-n]

Nice Job man keep up the good work

[Spyridon]

I'm doing my search for the monitor (thinking 25-26" TV)

I haven't figured out what I'm going to use for the monitor yet either.  I'm also thinking about going with the TV, just need to find the right one at a good price.


Thanks for the compliments.

[ChicagoDave]

Looking good!  Keep it up...

[Spyridon]

Here's what I got done today.  I started working on the control panel.  I used a 1 1/8 inch spade bit to cut the holes out.


To line everything up, I clamped my printed template over the lexan and the wood control panel top.


I then drilled a pilot hole in the center of each button.


After the pilot holes were all drilled, I removed the template and used the spade bit to drill through the lexan and wood. 

[Spyridon]

For the trackball cut out, I used a 3" hole saw.  To line it up in the correct spot, I placed the trackball mounting plate onto the control panel and traced out the circle in the right spot.  Just like the buttons, I then drilled a pilot hole in the center of the circle.  I went very slowly with the hole saw and it cut through the lexan and wood without a problem.


Here is the panel with all the holes cut out


Just the wood with the Lexan removed


And the Lexan by itself (still with the protective cover on it)

[Spyridon]

Next step was to cut the holes in the side of the control panel box for the pinball flipper buttons and a couple of admin buttons.  Same technique as the top.  Pilot hole followed by spade bit




On one side, I cut the hole a little too low which will cause the button to hit up against the control panel bottom.  I'll have to get the router in there and clear out some room.

Okay, that's it for today's update.  Next steps are to start cutting out the joystick holes.  I also received my Nova Matrix marquee light yesterday (very fast shipping) so I really want to get that installed and see how it looks as well.

[Akuma]

Looking good so far. Just curious why did you call it O'Boyle's? Is this a reference to King of Queens?

[Spyridon]

Looking good so far. Just curious why did you call it O'Boyle's? Is this a reference to King of Queens?

No King of Queens reference.  It's my last name.

[Spyridon]

Can anyone explain to me how to install the lexan over the joysticks?  The holes I cut are the same size as the button holes.  I thought the tops of the joysticks would just screw off, but they don't seem to and they are too big to fit through.  Do I need to take the joysitcks apart (and it that easy) or do I make the holes bigger?

[bfauska]

It depends which joysticks you have.  Many have a retaining clip on the bottom of the joystick shaft that you have to pull off then the shaft comes out. Many parts of the assembly will fall off of the shaft so keep track of which order and direction they were on there. Mount the joystick base to the cp then put the shaft back in with all the parts and re-attach the clips.

If you know which joystick you have you can proabably find a schematic online that shows the assembly order.  If you don't know which joysticks you have you should post a picture here and somebody will tell you.