OK. The plans for this one are as follows:
I'm going to 48in1 it. Yes. At least for the time being.
I need to have at least one cab with that 48in1 in it as I want to be able to play a couple of games I don't own on it.
Also, everything in this one is bust. PCB, monitor. I think I will ask my friend Andreas to have a look at the PCB (bootleg or not) so I won't be doing irreversible things to it.
Main thing that I need a Pac cab to at least play Ms.Pac as I love that 100x better than the original.
Anyway, I've started some work on it. First was to drill out the lock (standard work) to open the coin door. Next I wanted top open the CP. Turned out this was mounted with four bolts instead of the usual two bolts and a hinge. However the bolts and the wingnuts had _completley_ grown together by rusting terribly. No way I could remove them normally. I used my dremel to cut off the bolts. Finally I could remove the CP. I was glad to see that they did use a molex connector for the CP.
Next was to remove the monitor. I removed the ancient (and from what I've heard, nightmare) Hantarex MTC90 chassis from the side of the cab.

Next was the tube. It's a "usual" slide-in set up but locked again by a completely rusted bult and nut. Again the dremel and some hammering got rid of that and I could remove the tube easily.
For the 48in1 board I found a great little power supply: one from an Atari 1040ST. Kinda funny to use that one. The 48in1 only needs +5V and doesn't require much power. This one can deliver enough amps for it and its really compact and cheap (has been in my spare parts section for a LONG time

Tested it and runs fine.
Now, of all things, that "joy"stick has to go. I discovered that this probably was not the original stick. The stick was mounted with the bolts that are "diagonally" placed. The one's on top, bottom left and right were not used at all by the stick. The holes for the new joystick had been drilled but they didn't bother to get rid of the drilling rests, so there are some really sharp metal edges there. The other holes are very neat. So this made me think it's not the original stick.
To my horror, I discovered the folowing text on the stick:
STC Rotterdam.

I can't believe that this POS comes from my beloved Suzo...... but it's true.
Must have been the budget model.
Anyway, pics:
Think I did most of you guys a favor with removing that joystick:

The buttons are a really weird color, kinda red/pinkish. I first thought they'd been discolored by the sun, but the holders are the same color (!) and _still_ are the same color without getting any possible sunshine....:

A dark page, in the history of Suzo:

Proof:

So, at least we know now why there were so many mounting bolts. I was looking at replacing the stick with another (great) Suzo Inductive, but the hole pattern doesn't match.....

Anyone got an idea about the mounting holes of a real Midway Pac joystick ?
The CP artwork is definitly silk screened onto the CP directly.....gotta scan this and I hope someone can touch up the artwork to make a repro.
I really think I will put a button at the big yellow dot between the ghosts (looks almost like it's supposed to be there.) for the games that need jump/fire.