Sega Virtua Racing Conversion

[MrQuan]

G'day all

I recently bought a 1992 Sega Virtua Racing twin cabinet from a local collector near me in Australia.

Now I have another project on my hands, and progress has begun!  The cab came without any PCBs, so a restoration project was impossible.  Without all the PCBs, playing Virtua Racing would be difficult :p

Anyways, I've decided to convert this into a driving cab powered by two slimline PlayStation 2s in linked LAN mode.  I'll be hacking some Logitech force-feedback steering wheels to make the original VR ones compatible with the PS2s, and same for the pedals.

I've created a webpage that serves as a photo diary for this project.  I'll post updates here in this thread, but due to the shear ammount of photos, the majority of info can be found on the webpage.  Whenever I add a diary entry on the website, I'll update this thread with a brief of what's happening.

The link is: http://arcade.catspyjamasdesign.com/virtuaracing.html

Please post any feedback or suggestions here.
Thanks, and wish me luck!!

[Darth Nuno]

Hi MrQuan,

Sounds like a good project.I've done something similar with a Daytona USA cab, and an XBOX 360 for playing Forza II, Ridge Racer 6 and now Out Run 2SP ( see here : http://www.dragonslairfans.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=221&start=0 )



I suggest you to go with an Xbox360, because all the previous games, but also for SEGA Rally who'll be available bery soon, and also Daytona (cross the fingers) ...

Of course PS2 is a good choice too because it's cheap, and you can play Virtua Racing, who is already available on a Sega Ages compilation 

Good luck for your project 

[MrQuan]

WOW! Much respect to you Darth Nuno,

Looks like we've got the same idea   I'm reading the link you gave me now.  I'll be sticking with PS2s, simply because that's what I have already, and they are cheap these days

It's good to see a success story on another driver conversion.

I think the hardest challenge for me is hacking the original steering wheels to work with a PS2 force-feedback system.  I want to keep the original wheels because they are very heavy duty and will have no chance of breaking if a player gives it some abuse. 

[ARTIFACT]

MrQuan:

for some reason your link was pasted with spaces in it - and it got special characters encoded in it... breaking the link.

Here is the working link:
http://arcade.catspyjamasdesign.com/virtuaracing.html

GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR PROJECT   

[MrQuan]

MrQuan:

for some reason your link was pasted with spaces in it - and it got special characters encoded in it... breaking the link.

Here is the working link:
http://arcade.catspyjamasdesign.com/virtuaracing.html

GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR PROJECT   

Ahh, yeah that was a bit weird, I've fixed it now.  Thanks!!

Btw, I've just updated the project webpage for today.  Here's some photos of the cab the day I purchased it



Scored it for just $200AUD (that's $176USD)

[Malenko]

is that $1845 in aussie money?


BTW, cleaning the cab you buy is perhaps the least thought of and most important thing to do. My mame cab had 14 pounds of dust in it, and about $9 USD in loose change at the bottom, lol

[MrQuan]

is that $1845 in aussie money?

Yeah, I didn't make that clear so I've update the webpage.  The total so far is actually $1805AUD (I can't add ) that converts to about $1560USD.  The vast majority of this cost is stuff I had laying around - I haven't actually outlayed that ammount of money in five days

BTW, cleaning the cab you buy is perhaps the least thought of and most important thing to do. My mame cab had 14 pounds of dust in it, and about $9 USD in loose change at the bottom, lol

Yeah good point.  While this cab only had 15c in it, the thing that motivated me to clean it was the smell of cat's pee turned out to be rat's pee... anyways I guess you've already read about that on the webpage haha

[MrQuan]

...oops! delete this post please mod!

[Darth Nuno]

...
I think the hardest challenge for me is hacking the original steering wheels to work with a PS2 force-feedback system.  I want to keep the original wheels because they are very heavy duty and will have no chance of breaking if a player gives it some abuse. 

I usually try to keep the original parts, when it's possible. I did it in a previous project : using a computer to emulate Out Run into a Turbo Out Run cockpit :



...using a computer is the easiest solution    You just need an A-Pac from ultimarc, and you can use the original  steering wheels & pedals on your computer. I did it in order to play the 'Out Run Tilogy' on the same cab'

More informations 'bout this project right here :  http://www.arcadelifestyle.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=59

PS : Out Run 2006 Coast to Coast is also available for ... PS2... so you'll enjoy it too 

[MrQuan]

...
I think the hardest challenge for me is hacking the original steering wheels to work with a PS2 force-feedback system.  I want to keep the original wheels because they are very heavy duty and will have no chance of breaking if a player gives it some abuse. 

I usually try to keep the original parts, when it's possible. I did it in a previous project : using a computer to emulate Out Run into a Turbo Out Run cockpit :

(snip)

...using a computer is the easiest solution    You just need an A-Pac from ultimarc, and you can use the original  steering wheels & pedals on your computer. I did it in order to play the 'Out Run Tilogy' on the same cab'

That's awesome!  Another nice one
Getting the steering and pedal position isn't a problem, this is simply a matter of sustituting a pot and wiring back the the steering PCB out of the ps2 steering wheel.  The hard bit is implementing the actual force-feedback (i.e. motor) using the origianl steering wheel.  It would be easy to drop in the logitech wheel complete with force feedback, but I'm looking to keep the original VR wheels in, and drive the force feedback using the logitech PCB.  I explain this a bit on the project webpage, but it basically involves getting a new DC motor (the original is 100VAC) and interfacing it with a H-bridge circuit.  A bit of messing around, but it will give full force-feedback on the original wheel being driven by a hacked Logitech PCB.

PS : Out Run 2006 Coast to Coast is also available for ... PS2... so you'll enjoy it too 

Yeah I checked that one out, now I can join in the never ending powerslide action!!!!!!! ;D

[theCoder]

I'd like to go with a hardened industrial wheel on my Xcelerator driving cab, but I can't find one with buttons on the wheel.  Are there any buttons on the stock wheels on your cab? 

[MrQuan]

I'd like to go with a hardened industrial wheel on my Xcelerator driving cab, but I can't find one with buttons on the wheel.  Are there any buttons on the stock wheels on your cab? 

These don't have buttons on the wheels, they do have paddle shifters though.  Actually, I was in Autobarn (car shop) today and saw this performance steering wheel that had a button for each thumb (for nitro I guess?), that would be totally badass to have on the cab...  maybe oneday when I have money to burn

[Virgil Tracy]

MrQuan:


Scored it for just $200AUD (that's $176USD)

Damm I sold it too cheap

[MrQuan]

Damm I sold it too cheap

Well, I didn't want to say anything...    You'll have to come and check it out when things are up and running

[Virgil Tracy]

No I didnt sell it too cheap, in fact I did well I purchased the whole machine for $220 a few years ago, a year later tried to sell it for $600 but no one wanted it.

So I kept one monitor and parted it out. I made over $1200 by doing that.   

[MrQuan]

No I didnt sell it too cheap, in fact I did well I purchased the whole machine for $220 a few years ago, a year later tried to sell it for $600 but no one wanted it.

So I kept one monitor and parted it out. I made over $1200 by doing that.   

So it's a happy ending!  You're happy, I'm happy, and skippy saves the day 

----------

Ok, another webpage update peoples.  Did some more research on the force-feedback hack as you can read here:
http://arcade.catspyjamasdesign.com/virtuaracing.html#20070730

and while you're at it, check out the sexy diagram I drew for my latest update:


That took me forever to draw, so that gives me rights to flaunt it    Basically it shows how we're hacking the PS2 to work with the original steering wheel and force-feedback.

As always, feel free to leave feedback, advice, or abuse here 

[hatrick]

I'm watching your project (and Darth Nuno's) intently. I have a Sega Outrunners Dual cab that I'm currently working on.
So far I'm leaning towards 2 moddified xboxes, but haven't made up my mind yet.

[TheBrokentoken]

Darth Nuno,

First of all congrats on such a great Daytona conversion.  I hope to do the same to mine:

http://thechumbucket.org/photos/arcade-coinopcabinets/category1034.aspx  (just got it a few weeks ago and am amassing parts right now)

Anyways - what size TV did you use in your cabinet?  The way I measure it, a 25" decased would fit, but I'm curious as to what you did.

Thanks!

MrQuan - your project looks awesome, as well!

[MrQuan]

I badly need a basement 



Anyways I ended up playing Burnout 3 with the original VR steering wheel!  Still working on the pedals, have them semi-working but I'm just waiting for some parts.

Check out the latest update: http://arcade.catspyjamasdesign.com/virtuaracing.html#20070802

PS: thanks for the kind words ppls

[theCoder]

I badly need a basement 

Having a basement doesn't necessarily make the mess any less.  I found if I did a complete sweep of tools, components, & trash after each major accomplishment, things were occasionally under control.

Good luck with your wheel hack.

[Darth Nuno]

...
Anyways - what size TV did you use in your cabinet?  The way I measure it, a 25" decased would fit, but I'm curious as to what you did.
...

Hi AllCammedUp and sorry for the late answer.  It's a 27" for me. A Sony Trinitron model. The visible picture size is 26,7" ...so I presume It's a true 27".
It fits perfeclty the existing fixation of the original metal chassis.

[TheBrokentoken]

...
Anyways - what size TV did you use in your cabinet?  The way I measure it, a 25" decased would fit, but I'm curious as to what you did.
...

Hi AllCammedUp and sorry for the late answer.  It's a 27" for me. A Sony Trinitron model. The visible picture size is 26,7" ...so I presume It's a true 27".
It fits perfeclty the existing fixation of the original metal chassis.

Excellent - many thanks as that's what I was wanting to know!

[Wade]

So sad to see a VR converted... Check out a pic of my gameroom:
http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/wadelanham

Just kidding, many times I've thought about parting them thing out.

About the VR steering feedback, those are actually bidirectional A/C motors.  The way they work is the motor is turned on and off each direction depending on the feedback PCB mounted under the right side player monitor.  It uses both pots (I think one pot is for input to the game steering and the second is used by the feedback controller - I'm not sure why they couldn't have used only one).  The feedback PCB also controls the clutch.  The strength of the feedback is adjusted with Dips on the feedback board, and I'm not sure if it just adjustes the clutch or the AC power.  I know with it on full power it is unstoppable by a mere human!!!  Seriously.  The basic modes of the wheel are clutch on and off (the wheel is clutched but the motor is off if the car is sitting still), and power left and right.  Different combos happen depending on what's going on in the game (it will fight anything much off center with power, clutch no power when not moving, fight left/right during a wreck, fight nudge movements when another car is "rubbing").  If you have the feedback PCB you could probably just send some signals to it and get the wheels to do whatever you want, but the feedback is so primitive you could also probably come up with another way.

You could probably wire relays up using your logitech DC outputs to turn the relays on for left and right, and leave the wheel clutched all the time.

Just some ideas.  Nice to see a VR project!

Wade