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Author Topic: uroMAMEstyx : Project done (2007.12.10)  (Read 38044 times)

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superbigjay

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uroMAMEstyx : Project done (2007.12.10)
« on: March 17, 2007, 12:12:09 pm »
Hello all,

A few months ago (jan 2006), a friend of mine started it's own Arcade project.  Knowing that I was someone who always has a project in mind, he was sending me pictures and stories about the progression of his project  :blah:...

I didn't take long before I decided that BYOA would be on my list of next projects  >:D

So July 1st 2006, I took the first step : I bought the ARCADE PROJECT book and start reading...

The next months were taken to look at different project annoucements, try to figure out the CP layout and finish my ongoing project : kitchen renovations...

23 Dec 2006 : Kitchen is done (just before Christmas : we had 20 family members coming over)

Feb 1st 2007:
I have a good idea of the CP layout, the components I'll use.  But I still haven't found the arcade theme.  Without it, I can't start ordering stuff, since I don't know the "accent" color.

March 2nd 2007:
There's the "salon des reptiles" in Montreal (you can guess the translation here).  We (girlfriend and I) bring my 2 nephews to it.  We spent a few hours looking at many different kind of lizards.  Finally my girlfriend tells me : It would be nice to have a Lizard at home.  If the vivarium is nice, it could be used to decorate the living room

==> Lizard and desert theme!!!

(I don't know if you see the power of that theme)

At this moment, I looked in my girlfriend big beautiful blue eye and told her:
   As usual, you have an excellent idea!
   I will buid a nice wooden/glass vivarium (4 feet long) in one corner.
   On the wall we already have 2 wooden lamps (a turtle and a lizard)
   And on the other corner, we could put the Arcade with a Lizard theme !

Do I have to tell you what was the first reaction of my girlfriend when I told her I wanted to build an arcade the first time?  But this time, it didn't seem to bother her  :notworthy:

The power of that theme is that not only I was finally able to choose the color for the arcade parts and start spending money, but I could put the arcade directly in the living room!!!  :cheers:

------------------------------------------------
So here's the general idea:
------------------------------------------------
- lizard/desert theme (accent color : YELLOW)
- cabinet based on UAII with slight modifications : I don't like the drawer..
  + happ 2 player coin door (received)
  + stainless steel cabinet side : 4x8 sheet 0.024" (received)
  + 12" or 15" Yellow neon rings to light circular logos on the side like on NEON mame
      (might have to go another route, since the only 2 places I could find them online
      were out of stock and couldn't get more from company).
      :banghead:
- 2 players cp
  + no spiner (there no games that uses spiner that I really love)
  + transluscent yellow trackball (received)
  + transluscent pushbuttons (received)
  + 2 mag-stik plus :no need to have a dedicated 4-way joystick
     (not ordered yet, might go with 2 happ 360 + dedicated 4-way)

As you see, I'm not re-inventing the well.  Just re-using ideas  :laugh:

------------------------------------------------
Choosing the name:
------------------------------------------------
The Lizard requirements were:
- vegetarian (girlfriend doesn't like mouse, crickets and even less worms)
- docile (for beginner)
- good size (12-24 inches)

==> Mali/niger Uromastyx

This is how I ended up with the name "uroMAMEstyx". 

------------------------------------------------
The lizard vivarium
------------------------------------------------
The lizard vivarium will probaly have a small logo with the name on it "uroVIVAstyx"

The vivarium features are:
- 4 feet long
- 18 inches wide
- roughly 16 inches high
It will be a 2 story vivarium.  Some kind of deluxe penthouse for lizard.
The final dimensions should be something like: 48Lx18Wx48H

I'll probably start a thread on another forum for the vivarium.
If there's some interest for it, I'll post the link...

PS: for the neon ring problem, I already have another thread:
"trouble finding a yellow neon speaker ring 12-15in (or alternative)" in the Main Forum.
(don't know how to insert a link to it...)


If any of you have a suggestion, please don't hesitate to post.


NOTE: English is my second language, so I'm sorry if there're many errors
« Last Edit: December 10, 2007, 03:22:20 pm by superbigjay »

superbigjay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #1 on: March 17, 2007, 01:47:46 pm »
  + 12" or 15" Yellow neon rings to light circular logos on the side like on NEON mame
      (might have to go another route, since the only 2 places I could find them online
      were out of stock and couldn't get more from company).
      :banghead:

...

PS: for the neon ring problem, I already have another thread:
"trouble finding a yellow neon speaker ring 12-15in (or alternative)" in the Main Forum.
(don't know how to insert a link to it...)

If any of you have a suggestion, please don't hesitate to post.

FYI:
The neon ring issue is now resolved.
Knievel suggested to use some LED strips.  This is what I'll do.

PS:
my last project (kitchen) started in march 2006 and was supposed to be done in about 1-2 months.  My girlfriend looked like this in dec 2006 : 
   :angry:

The deadline for this project is june 2007, because I need to build a fence for the dogs this summer.  We'll see how the schedule hold up!

Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #2 on: March 17, 2007, 02:23:11 pm »
If you want to avoid having a dedicated 4-way joystick I would recommend using an Ultimarc U360 or find a used Midway 49-way or get a Happ 49-way stick and get the GPWiz49 interface from Groovy Game Gear.  Both of these options give you the ability to program the stick for multiple setups, 8-way, 4-way, 4-way diagonal, 2-way vertical or horizontal.  These options also have additional setups depending on the vendor.  If you weren't on a time table I'd suggest waiting for Randy at Groovy Game Gear to release his new 49-way joystick and interface.

I would also recommend that you steer away from the mag-sticks.  I own their predecessors the T-Sticks and I was very unhappy with their performance in 8-way mode.  With the restrictor set in 4-way mode they make an excellent dedicated 4-way stick though.

TTFN  :cheers:
Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #3 on: March 17, 2007, 05:52:28 pm »
I would also recommend that you steer away from the mag-sticks. 

Thanks for the warning Kaytrim.  I'll keep that in mind. 

Since most joystick use the same hole size in the CP, I can start finalizing the CP layout without knowing exactly which joystick I'll be using...

Those 49-ways look interesting!!

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #4 on: March 17, 2007, 09:57:47 pm »
You will want to be a little careful about getting buttons too close to the stick because of the mounting plate of the joystick.  Do a Google for a program called CPSketch.  This will help you with layout spacing and CP size. 

If you are going to go with a 49-way and plan on mounting it under the CP you will need a hole slightly bigger than a standard button.  The larger hole is needed because the stick has a longer throw.  Most other sticks have shorter throws and can use a 1 1/8" button hole.  The other option is to flush mount the stick to the top of the CP.  You will need to route or chisel part of the wood away so the top of the mounting plate is flush with the top of the CP.  I would wait to cut your CP until you get all your parts together then make a mock up out of cardboard to get the feel of how they controls are laid out.

TTFN  :cheers:
Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #5 on: March 17, 2007, 10:26:44 pm »
I'd be extra sure that vivarium is escape proof if your going to put it next to your cab .
When I was living in Houston, I owned a number of lizards over the years. Reptiles have a love/hate relationship with electronics. Being cold blooded, they tend to seek out anything warm, then take a nap on it. This by itself isn't a problem, but their favorite thing to do when they wakeup is take a crap. I've have lizard poo destroy monitors and motherboards. I'd hate it if a poo destroyed my cab. I've attached a picture of my favorite little motherboard killer (just to show you how cute he was). He was an Australian frilled lizard named "They".
« Last Edit: March 17, 2007, 10:52:39 pm by zenmasterbooty »

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #6 on: March 18, 2007, 11:17:21 am »
...
If you are going to go with a 49-way and plan on mounting it under the CP you will need a hole slightly bigger than a standard button.  The larger hole is needed because the stick has a longer throw.
...
Thanks Kaytrim, I'll keep that in mind.  I won't cut any joystick hole before I know for sure which joystick I'm gonna use...


I'd be extra sure that vivarium is escape proof if your going to put it next to your cab .
...
I've have lizard poo destroy monitors and motherboards. I'd hate it if a poo destroyed my cab.
:laugh2:
Zenmasterbooty,
I'll make sure the viv is escape proof and that the cab is PooPoo Proof...

I need to clean up the work place and install a real door for the dust.  Right now I have some sort of "ventilated door".  Since the workplace is right next to my cpu room and home theater system, I always end up with a lot of dust going through the  :soapbox: door which is not that great for all the electronics...  I'll probably do this next week.

After that, the project assembly should really start.

BTW, how do we insert picture in post?  I tried the tag "insert image" to upload a picture from my HD, but didn't know what to do next.  :dunno



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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #7 on: March 18, 2007, 01:46:19 pm »
Open the additional options.  Then you can upload images from your HD.  Just keep in mind that the images must be under 512 KB.  There are a few other limitations but that is all listed right there.

TTFN  :cheers:
Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #8 on: March 18, 2007, 09:01:20 pm »
Open the additional options.  Then you can upload images from your HD. 

All right, trial to show my "not so good" door against dust...
Thanks Kaytrim for the info!

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #9 on: March 18, 2007, 09:05:51 pm »
No problem, good luck on the build.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #10 on: March 22, 2007, 09:19:22 am »
All right, here'a a status on the project...

These are the parts I have right now:

4'x8' Sheet of Stainless Steel 1/40in thick (see picture)
==================================================
   It will be used to laminate the side pannel of the cabinet.
   got it from a friend who works in a metal sheet distributor

Happ coin door (see picture)
==================================================
   got it used on ebay.
   It needs some minor paint touch-up, but seems in good order.
   It came with 2 different US coin mech.  I had to modify them to
   accept canadian quarters.  The modification was simple enough.
   Can and US quarter are similar in size, but differ in weight.

   What I did on the "more recent coin mech" (black and grey) is to remove
   the small magnet from its enclosure.  Instead og throwing it away, I decided
   to "stick it" on the other side of the metal piece that was holding it.
   It can accept both CAN and US quarter, but I don't care since US money
   worth more than CAN  ;)
   Note that any washer with the right size would also work in this case,
   but since the arcade will my in my living room and that it will be my money,
   that shouldn't be a problem.

   For the one that seem a bit older (golden one), I tried to remove the
   magnet, but in  this case, all quarters (CAN and US) were rejected. 
   Eliminating completely the magnetic field in this case didn't work, since
   the quarter needs to be slightly deviated from its trajectory to fall in the
   right apperture.
   So I just added Glue (from a hot glue gun) to increase the distance
   between the magnet and the "coin chute" (where the coins pass...)
   The adjustment was done with trials and errors
   ==> put glue
   ==> try CAN quarter
   ==> If the quarter is held by the magnet, increase the distance (add glue)
   ==> If the quarter goes through but is rejected, decrease the distance (remove glue)
   The you get to the point where the CAN gets accepted all the time  :applaud:
   In this case, only CAN quarters are accepted.

translucent yellow push buttons and USB trackball (see picture)
==================================================
I got some transluscent pushbuttons and a usb trackball from Tornado Terry's.
I must say that the shopping experience with him was more than pleasing!
Fast respond time, Fast shipping!
The package was delivered at my work:
- I work on a computer all day
- I receive an USB trackball
==> It didn't take long to verify if the trackball was working or not  >:D

These are the part that are ordered, but not received yet:
- LED strips to illuminated the circular logos on the side of the cab
  I'd like to thank Knievel for the idea (it was supposed to be a yellow neon,
  but they seem to be almost impossible to find these day!)
- Bag of yellow LEDs to illuminate the pushbuttons and trackball.
- Joysticks (2 happ 360 and 1 reunion stick)

That's it for now folks.

This weekend I'll try to fix the  :censored: door for my work place...

Jay.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #11 on: March 22, 2007, 09:22:00 am »
Here're the pic for the trackball and pushbuttons.
I was exceeding the 512K limit...

Also, I've included a picture of an uromastyx around which the whole
living room theme is based...

cheers!

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #12 on: March 22, 2007, 09:55:15 am »

Also, I've included a picture of an uromastyx around which the whole
living room theme is based...


So that is why everything is yellow.  :dizzy: I was thinking that you liked bananas. :laugh2:  Have fun with this build, I'll be watching.

TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #13 on: March 22, 2007, 11:14:07 pm »
Have you thought about building the vivarium into the base of the cab? 

How are you going to treat the stainless steel?  Keep it smooth & shiny, or sand some cool swirly patterns in?

What about lighting the trackball?  I had great success on my last project drilling three holes in the bottom of the trackball case, and glued the led's right in.  No need for an extra third party retainer or bracket.

Good luck on the build.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #14 on: March 23, 2007, 02:16:50 am »
Have you thought about building the vivarium into the base of the cab? 

The little guy would love the warmth, but the blasting sounds of the games echoing through the cab would stress him to an early grave.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #15 on: March 23, 2007, 09:29:16 am »
Have you thought about building the vivarium into the base of the cab? 
Nope!  I admit the WOW effect of having a live lizard in the base of the cab, or even in the top marquee would be great, but as zenmasterbooty said, I don't think he would appreciate the sound.  Also, these little guys grow to about 18 inch long...

I included a picture of a vivarium I saw at the "salon des reptiles".  My viv will probably look like it, but will be 2 storey. (put 2 of those on top of each other and you'll have an idea)

How are you going to treat the stainless steel?  Keep it smooth & shiny, or sand some cool swirly patterns in?
The stainless already have a "brushed" finish so I don't think adding pattern to it would give a good results.  I will probably use it as is since it is meant that way.

What about lighting the trackball?  I had great success on my last project drilling three holes in the bottom of the trackball case, and glued the led's right in.  No need for an extra third party retainer or bracket.
Aaaah I remember reading that post.  The LEDs directly in the TB case was a good idea  :cheers:.  My trackball already has a small light bulb installed.  I'll replace it with 3 yellow LEDs.  I'll do some testing to see how it looks when lit from below.  If the effect is nice, this is what I'll do since it's seem easier (I might even be able to reuse the actual retainer with a small mod).  If the lighting is bad, I'll try your idea.

Thanks for the feedback!!

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #16 on: March 25, 2007, 06:13:38 pm »
This weekend I'll try to fix the  :censored: door for my work place...
All right, I was able to find some time this weekend to install the new door (I even had time to do a little clean up of the work place...).  With this, I should be able to work in the workshop without having dust everywhere  :applaud:

I'll probably stop by the hardware store sometime this week to get MDF sheets.  I'm not sure yet if I'll laminate or paint the base of the cabinet (black)...  Anyone has recommendation on this?

I'm supposed to receive my joysticks tuesday.  I will probably work on the CP layout, so I can post the first draft for feedback...

PS:
I went to one of my favorite store this weekend (cantire) and got myself a new  :tool:
A biscuit joiner...  I'm planning to use it for my vivarium assembly. 
Maybe it will be usefull for the cab assembly too...

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #17 on: March 26, 2007, 09:21:51 am »
Last friday, I've received some T-moldings.

I'll probably go with yellow, black or "chrome".
I'll see when the CP art is done...


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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #18 on: March 26, 2007, 10:35:47 pm »
Wow I'm jealous of your workshop... 

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #19 on: March 26, 2007, 10:40:39 pm »
Wow I'm jealous of your workshop... 

You are not the only one. :o  He even has a sink.  You might want to add weather stripping around that new door to make sure the dust stays in the shop and not the rest of the basement.

TTFN :cheers:
Kaytrim

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #20 on: March 27, 2007, 09:24:55 am »
You are not the only one. :o  He even has a sink.
Aaaah the sink...  You should have seen it saturday!  There were a lot of oil paint/varnish stain in it.  I had to use a bit of paint stripper with steel wool to get back that stainless look...

... You might want to add weather stripping around that new door to make sure the dust stays in the shop and not the rest of the basement.
I already installed a door sweep to cover the gap under the door, but I'll follow your advice and add weather stripping around the rest of it.  It will be a 5$/10 minutes well spent...  :cheers:
(I already lost a CD player and a DVD player because of dust...  :cry:)

PS: The joysticks were delivered to my office in Plattsburgh yesterday.  I should get them today in Montreal!!
PPS: I'm currently playing with sketchup.  I'll try to come up with 3D models of the arcade and the vivarium...

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #21 on: March 28, 2007, 10:42:22 pm »
I'm supposed to receive my joysticks tuesday.  I will probably work on the CP layout, so I can post the first draft for feedback...
:applaud: I just got the joysticks this afternoon  :applaud:
- 2 happ perfect 360
- 1 true 4-way joystick

Terry, at TornadoTerry's made me a special package for a 4-way joystick.  It's similar to the MsPacman 4-way joystick, but without the special adaptator and with different color knobs.

I wasn't sure yet if I should go with black (to match the 360's) or yellow, to match the theme main color...  :dunno
I'll see that later, when I'll work on the CP art.

Now, the only things missing on the electronic side is a keywiz and ledwiz.  I should be able to get everything I'm missing at GGG.

If you think of something I might have forgot, except for the TV and the CPU, let me know  :laugh:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #22 on: March 30, 2007, 09:33:21 pm »
All right.  It's Friday night, I just got back from work and stopped at the hardware store to get 3 sheets of MDF.

Aaaah MDF :  Medium-density fibreboard...

They should call it FHF for Freaking Heavy  :banghead:

The guy at the hardware help me to put them on the roof, but when I got home, I was all alone and I couldn't get a hold on my friend that live by (9h00PM, Friday night... I should have known  :hissy:

Anyways, I manage to get the sheets in he garage without breaking or scratching anything.

Plan for tomorrow: Cut and laminate the stainless steel side panels...

cheers!
Jay

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #23 on: March 31, 2007, 12:34:42 am »
It will look even funnier when you try to lug the finished cab on top of your car.  Have a fun, dusty day.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #24 on: March 31, 2007, 09:41:27 am »
It will look even funnier when you try to lug the finished cab on top of your car.  Have a fun, dusty day.
Yeeeeeee! can't imagine that!! 
Now I understand why when people sells cab, they specify : PICKUP ONLY!!!  >:D
Man I though gyproc was heavy...

I'm just waking up, I'll take my famous "Cafe Late" from my Saeco Machine  :notworthy:
When I'll be awake, I'll stop at Loblaws to take the measurement (again) of the TV depth (It would kind of pissed me off if I end up with side panels that are "too short"). 
After that, a quick stop to get the glue/cement from the hardware store...

I hope everything will go as plan...

PS:
I've ordered my keywiz and ledwiz yesterday. 
I think I should get them in Montreal by the end of next week...  Can't wait to play with those...

PPS:
That make me think to make sure the base and top of the cabinet will fit in the stairs when
it will be time to get it from the basement workshop to the family room upstairs...
That situation happens to me once when I had to bring the big sofa in the basement.  I had to
remove the door and "enlarge" the entrance.
(In fact, it happens to me twice, since I had to bring it back upstairs when my ex-girlfriend left with it)  :laugh2:


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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #25 on: March 31, 2007, 05:00:32 pm »
I'll stop at Loblaws to take the measurement (again) of the TV depth (It would kind of pissed me off if I end up with side panels that are "too short").
Instead of taking the measurement, I decided to get the TV right away.  I got a Citizen JCTV2709.  It's a true flat screen 27" TV with s-video input.  That way, I'll be able to modify the UA2 plans for the depth if needed.

After that, a quick stop to get the glue/cement from the hardware store...
I got everything I need to do my laminate, but I decided to do some testing on mdf to see if everything works...

So the side panel cutting is postponed to early next week...   :-\

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #26 on: March 31, 2007, 10:42:33 pm »
wooooo!

I almost did a big mistake today for the laminate...   :timebomb:

The first picture is the layout recommended on the original ua2 plans to cut the top side panels
(the ratio aren't exact, but you'll get the idea).
This is fine for cutting the mdf, but when have have material with 1 finished side, that layout doesn't work (you'll end up with 2 left sides or 2 right side).

This usually ends up with a line like:
WTF...  Why do I have 2 right panels  :dizzy: ??? :-\ :-[ :'( :cry::hissy::badmood::banghead::angry::soapbox:

In order to cut the pieces with a finished side correctly, one of the piece must be inverted. 
The only way the fit on a single 4x8 sheet are shown in the second picture.  As you see, there isn't any margin left.

Hopefully, the mdf sheets are 4'1"x8'1" (extra inch on both side), so by being really careful, I should be able to align
the stainless steel sheet properly.  If not, well, I'll have to buy an extra sheet (80$CAN)...

This is the kind of error I usually do...  If I'm lucky, I'll get it right the first time!!


More news in a few days...
« Last Edit: March 31, 2007, 10:52:26 pm by superbigjay »

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #27 on: March 31, 2007, 11:02:28 pm »
WTF...  Why do I have 2 right panels  :dizzy: ??? :-\ :-[ :'( :cry::hissy::badmood::banghead::angry::soapbox:
...well, I'll have to buy an extra sheet (80$CAN)...
This is the kind of error I usually do...  If I'm lucky, I'll get it right the first time!!
I think we all have a few extra right panels (or functional equivalents) to our credit.  Good job avoiding this one.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #28 on: April 06, 2007, 10:44:53 pm »
All right, it's friday night.  Here a small update and some pictures...

As I said, I got a 27" TV last saturday.  The TV is shown on the first pictures.  With this I know how wide the cab needs to be...

The others pictures illustrate the setup for the stainless steel laminate...
- contact glue and brush
- blower.  Faster than a broom to get rif of dust in the garage!  ;D
- a mdf sheet and a stainless steel sheet
- a breating mask to prevent headaches (looking good  :laugh2:)

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #29 on: April 06, 2007, 11:04:33 pm »
Friday night part 2 (I was exceeding the number of pictures per post...)

Tonight, my friend Ben came over to help me with the laminate. (Ben is my friend who I couldn't get a hold on for the MDF  ;))

Anyways, we completed the lamination process
- 1 coat of primer on MDF (Wednesday) : let dry 24 hrs
- 1 coat of contact glue on MDF (Thursday) : let dry 24 hrs
- 1 coat of contact glue on MDF + SS : let dry 20-45 min, install SS over MDF and align everyting.
- inspect laminated SS and scientifically remove any air bubble left with the "FOOT technique"  :laugh:

I'm gonna leave it rest under the remaining 2 sheets of MDF for 24-48 before attempting the first cut.

I know the pics might be boring right now, but I try to document all steps of the project  :angel:

.Tomorrow is "cabane a sucre" time.  I'll probably cut the side panels sunday.

Then I'll have some real PIC to show you guys!!!

Jay

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uroMAMEstyx first cut!!
« Reply #30 on: April 12, 2007, 12:06:39 am »
Late night update....

First of all, I've received my Keyboard encoder and my LED controller.  I didn't had time to play with it yet, but I can't wait to try it...

As for the cabinet progress... 

I've drawn all the cut lines for the 2 stainless side panels yesterday and did my first cut on it...

To cut the MDF + SS I'm using my Bosch jigsaw along with Bosch metal blades 36 TPI.

On the first cut, I thought that the plastic film protection would be enough to protect the SS from scratches... Well   :angry:

As you see on the picture, while I was cutting, some of the SS got stuck underneath the jigsaw and left some marks on the SS.  I should have known better... Especially that my friend told me last week about this issue  :banghead:
I guess, I'll have to live with it : There will be some scratches on the bottom of the right panel...
For the other cuts, I've used masking tape to protect the SS.  So far it worked well.

I'm almost done with the first panel.  I'll post pics probably Friday or Saturday of the 2 side panels...

sweet dreams!

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #31 on: April 12, 2007, 12:19:15 am »
Next time you might want to cut the wood first then apply the laminate or steel.   Then you can cut the laminate with a flush cutter bit for a router.  Use tin snips and a file for the steel.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #32 on: April 12, 2007, 02:50:37 am »
Next time try putting a couple of strips of duct tape on the bottom plate of your jigsaw.  An old trick I picked up from an old man.

If those are the only scratches you get in the SS during the build, consider yourself lucky.  Good luck with the rest of the build.

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #33 on: April 12, 2007, 08:24:31 am »
have you designed your viv yet , i built a nice one for a bearded dragon 3 yrs ago , got some nice ideas if ur interested.
got COLOR codes from projects, post them here

add stuff to the uk wiki section

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #34 on: April 12, 2007, 09:22:58 am »
Next time you might want to cut the wood first then apply the laminate or steel.  Then you can cut the laminate with a flush cutter bit for a router.  Use tin snips and a file for the steel.
Thanks Kaytrim for the advice.
The Stainless steel is 0.024" thick (1/40 in).  It's relatively thin, but I think it still too thick (and hard) to get a nice cut with tin snips.  As for the router solution, maybe it would work with aluminum since its a soft metal, but I doubt it would trim the SS...  Before going the jigsaw route, I asked for a submission for a SS sheet + cuts and it was about 300$... a bit expensive  :-\... 
So this is why I ended up with the jigsaw  :blah:


Next time try putting a couple of strips of duct tape on the bottom plate of your jigsaw.  An old trick I picked up from an old man.
Hello Coder,
the scratches were not cause by the bottom plate of the jigsaw, but by some metal rip/dust/pieces (not sure how to call it  ???) from the cut that got stuck under the plate...  By using duct tape, you would protect the SS from the jigsaw plate, but it would no prevent metal rip/dust/pieces (still not sure how to call it) to go underneath the plate.  In fact, the duct tape might even hold more metal rip/dust/pieces (sh...t what's the name...).  Right??  :dunno


If those are the only scratches you get in the SS during the build, consider yourself lucky.  Good luck with the rest of the build.
As you said, if these are the only scratches, I can live with them  :cheers:


have you designed your viv yet , i built a nice one for a bearded dragon 3 yrs ago , got some nice ideas if ur interested.
Hey Polaris,
I could use any advice you have on this matter, since I'm quite a newbie on that too...
You can send me a PM since the viv is not really relevant for this forum (unless others would like to know) or post directly on one of these 2 threads: they're basically the same thread on 2 different forums...
http://www.repticzone.com/forums/Uromastyx/messages/1227088.html
http://www.reptilerooms.com/forumtopic-48923.html

The status on the uroVIVAstyx is:
- 3D model done
- plans completed
- wood cut

The dimensions are roughly 59x26, 2-storey...  8)

If you have any input on this, I could really use your help  :cheers:

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #35 on: April 12, 2007, 09:56:23 am »
hope ive got this right
got COLOR codes from projects, post them here

add stuff to the uk wiki section

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #36 on: April 12, 2007, 10:03:01 am »
wasnt sure if i could attatch the pic.
see the red line thats a piece of timber , the light brown line represents the velcro, you attatch the opposite velcro to a piece of glass and it just holds on, i had a 2 ft bearded dragon that used to launch at the glass an it never even moved.
so youd have four doors which are easy to remove , much less fiddly than the sliders.
really bad pic but this is the only one of the dragon sleeping upright holding what would be the red piece i indicated on the pic.
reckon its ok to post bout this here, its as close to an arcade machine as a card table is.
got COLOR codes from projects, post them here

add stuff to the uk wiki section

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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #37 on: April 12, 2007, 01:10:33 pm »
Thanks Polaris for the velcro tip.
when come the time, I'll test both (sliding + velcro) to see which solution
I prefer...
My only concern with the velcro solution is that you will see it through the window...  That's the only drawback (cosmetic) I see for that solution...

Quote from: polaris link=topic=64434.msg659274#msg659274
date=1176386581
really bad pic but this is the only one of the dragon
sleeping upright holding what would be the red piece i indicated on the
pic.
hmmmm I'm not sure Rascal is really sleeping.
Have you seen the picture taken few minutes after you left...  :laugh2:

If you have any more advice/picture, let me know here or via a PM. :cheers:




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Re: uroMAMEstyx & uroVIVAstyx
« Reply #38 on: April 12, 2007, 01:15:20 pm »
 :laugh2:
bless him i dont think hes ever seen a lady dragon.

the velcro looks quite clean through the glass as your looking at the back of it so its smooth i glued it on with epoxy glue, ill see if i can get a photo from its present owner, i used cream velcro , it follows the lines of the cab around the edges if you get me, not unlike t molding
got COLOR codes from projects, post them here

add stuff to the uk wiki section

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uroMAMEstyx : First 2 pieces of the cabinet.
« Reply #39 on: April 12, 2007, 11:46:24 pm »
Yeah! I finally have my first 2 pieces for the uroMAMEstyx cabinet!  :applaud: (You can see them in the pic below). 

I've left the protective film on because I still have to cut a 14" circle in each panel for my side LOGO.  In fact, I will probably leave it on until the last minute...

Tonight, everything went well.  No surprises, no extra scratches were added to the project.  :cheers:
Before each cut, I was removing all dust from the panel and applied 2 ply of masking tape.
Again, you can see the masking tape on one of the picture.

BTW, I received all my LEDs today.  I got one pack of 100's yellow LEDs and 8 feet of LED strip.  The LED strip will be used to illuminate the side LOGO.

Here, I'd like to thank Knieviel for the LED strip suggestion to replace the yellow neon ring that I couldn't find anywhere  :notworthy:

Here the general idea for the side logo.
- cut 14" hole in the panel.
- mount 4 feet of LED strip along the circonference of the hole
- flush mount one white plexi and one clear plexi (transparent plexi will be flush with SS surface)
- insert LOGO between the white and clear plexis

This will give and illuminated LOGO that will be flush with the side panel surface.  It's kind of a side marquee  ;D

Oh and before I go, I'd also like to thanks all those jigsaw blades that gave their best at doing what they do best : cutting metal!!!  Rest assure, your sacrifice will not be forgotten :P

Enough for tonight.... It's getting late!

Bonne nuit!

  
 

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