Plunge Router with hole saw bit

[shmokes]

Could I use a hole saw bit in a plunge router to make it work like a drill press for perfectly straight cuts?  I suppose the bit might not even clear the opening in the base of the router, but if it would is there any reason to avoid using drill bits in a router?  

While we are at it can anyone tell me what size hole saw saw to use for buttons and joystics?  I'm sure I can get this information from previous threads so I would appreciate at least an answer to the first question if anyone has an idea as to whether this would work.  

[hyiu]

if using normal microswitch buttons and joysticks like Super/Competition.. etc...

using 1 1/8 inch bit...

sorry.... donno about the other question...

[mrhowell]

Router motors spin pretty fast.  

[reighty]

myhowell is right

a router would spin the bit really fast and in my experience, it is better to cut slower, especially if you are going to cut lexan/plexi.

[Pixelhugger]

I agree with that "pretty fast" comment.  A router will spin around 30,000 RPM while an electric drill will (MAX) around 2,200.

Putting a drill bit in your router may = death. It may spin you around javascript:wink() - or worse - may spin the router out of control and into your torso since the cutting surface of the bit is MUCH greater and has far greater "bite" than a router bit. Keep in mind that larger "router" bits such as those used for moulding and the like, are used in a shaper - which is widely regarded as the most dangerous shop tool made. 30,000 RPM + lack of solid control = flying body parts.  Instead I suggest using the following tools-

Either find/borrow a drill press OR get one of these:
 
http://doitbest.com/shop/product.asp?mscssid=0HA7RDJRGBRR8K3CW5DQK5Q0R6UB6XKB&dept%5Fid=2615&sku=355194

- its a hand held guide to keep your drill on target-even at an angle.

As far as a bit goes- if you're drilling plexi DON'T use a hole saw. Though it will work this will tend to A) chip the plastic, B) crack the plastic and C) get filled with jammed up melted plastic which can take many times longer to pull out of the saw between holes than the holes took to drill!

USE A FORSTENER BIT! As seen in the following link:

http://doitbest.com/shop/product.asp?mscssid=0HA7RDJRGBRR8K3CW5DQK5Q0R6UB6XKB&dept%5Fid=2614&sku=304980

 This is a drill bit with two "blades" running across a barrel. It shaves the plastic away leaving a beautifully smooth and accurate hole. I'm guessing you could even try it without the guide on a piece of scrap as it's pretty easy to control. But please for the love of GOD don't put this in a routerjavascript:wink()

I wish to hell I had used one for all of my 23 holes -javascript:angry() (I did catch on for the last few). Email me with any questions! javascript:grin()
mitch@swietlik.com

[shmokes]

This website is great.  Not only do you all offer great advice on how to build an arcade cabinet you have possibly saved my life  

[kspiff]

Whoa.. I had been wondering if they made drill guides like that.. maybe I'll get one of these and skip the drill press.. then again a decent drill press can be had for a little over 2x as much if I can catch a good sale.. hm.. hard choice

[ErikRuud]

Yes, they have had drill guides like that for years.  For a cab builder those guides maybe more usefule than a regular drill press.  My drill press, like most of the lower priced ones, cannot reach all the places on a CP that you will want to drill holes.  A drill guide on the other hand can be used anywhere on the CP.

I did drill all my holes by hand with out a guide. My drill has a bubble level on the end to help keep the holes straight.

[Brax]

Could I use a hole saw bit in a plunge router to make it work like a drill press for perfectly straight cuts?  I suppose the bit might not even clear the opening in the base of the router, but if it would is there any reason to avoid using drill bits in a router?  

While we are at it can anyone tell me what size hole saw saw to use for buttons and joystics?  I'm sure I can get this information from previous threads so I would appreciate at least an answer to the first question if anyone has an idea as to whether this would work.  

Good freaking god! Thankfully it's already been mentioned but DON'T DO IT!

Don't ever, ever, EVER, E V E R put a bit into a router that wasn't designed to be there!!!!! Holy crap.

I know this hobby collects quite a diverse demographic considering it marrys several very different hobbies. Woodworking, electronics, hardware, software, etc. For those of you that aren't woodworkers, don't ever put something in a powertool that wasn't designed to be there!!!!!! Just don't do it!

You'll look pretty stupid having, "He died while making a Pac Man cabinet" on your tombstone.

[Pixelhugger]

KSPIF- if you've got the extra $50 go with the drill press IF it'll reach where you need it. (I imagine the smaller $100 presses are more limiting in how far they'll reach tho). That really is a concern, measure it first of course.  The hand held guide is exactly that - a guide. It can definatley be better than guiding by hand alone but it's no where near as dead on precise as a drill press.  

[kspiff]

That is a good point.. a drill press would be great for now (just working on control panels), but a guide would be even better for when I start my next full cab.

My only concern is stability when drilling.. but for @ $50, that's should probably be a damn nice drill guide

[Duran]

Not that I have anything against doitbest.com, but you can get the drill guide for cheaper at Home Depot - SKU: #131288.  About $35.  You can also get forstner bits cheaper at www.mlcswoodworking.com - free shipping within the US.  They also have the proper slot-cutting bit for t-molding.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/forsbit.htm  

[eightbit]

I've seen those drill guides, albeit cheaply made ones for as low as $15.

I work with a guy that put a small sanding drum in his router. Now the sanding drum is stuck into the wall and he leaves it there as a reminder to not do that again.

[Grasshopper]

You can actually buy special drill bits for using in routers. I've seem them advertised. Unfortunately they cost a lot more than standard drill bits.

Another thing that occurs to me is that most routers have a variable speed motor. Maybe some models can be set to spin slow enough to handle standard drill bits. Just a thought, I'm not a woodworking expert.

[eightbit]

You can actually buy special drill bits for using in routers. I've seem them advertised. Unfortunately they cost a lot more than standard drill bits.

Another thing that occurs to me is that most routers have a variable speed motor. Maybe some models can be set to spin slow enough to handle standard drill bits. Just a thought, I'm not a woodworking expert.

The router bits you are talking about are plunge cutting bits. Generally they aren't for drilling holes they are to plunge your router into the work and cut from there.

They do not make a router that will spin slow enough to handle standard drill bits. Please for you own safety and the safety of others around you never chuck anything in your router that isn't designed to go in your router. Read my post above about the drum sander bit. To expand on that story a little he actually tried a smaller drum sander bit that seemed to work well so he decided to use the next size up. After bouncing around the room a few times it stuck itself into the wood wall. I've never had a router bit come loose but I've had boards kick out of a tablesaw or explode on a CMS sending shards in every direction so I don't do things that I know are unsafe. I like to be able to see and count to 10 on my fingers so I respect my tools and take reasonable safety precautions.
 
With a circle template, template guides and a pluge cutting bit you could cut circles but this seems like a lot of extra work with no significant gain. Arcade buttons holes don't need to be perfect since your going to over lap the edge with the button anyway.

Forstner bits in a drill press are best, a forstner bit in a drill guide would be good, and you can get acceptable results hand holding the drill with a forstner bit. Can't afford the $8 bit you can go get a whole set of spade bits for about $4 and still get acceptable results.

Buttons use a 1 1/8" hole and most joysticks use the same size but some people drill them 1 1/4", you might have to go a little bigger with joysticks with a long throw, a thick panel (more than 3/4"), or if don't get the joystick centered in the hole.

[djsting]

The forstener bit is the way to go for drilling your CP holes, 1 1/8" is the correct size for buttons as well as your center hole for Happs joysticks.

The drill guide is also a great tool but I would go to Home Depot.  I just bought one Sunday for $29.99 and it is the exact same one as on the website posted above.

Last night I used to drill guide and the forstener bit to drill all the joystick and buttons holes and it worked so well I couldn't be happier!!  

As previously stated a drill press will sometimes not allow you to reach some of the holes you want to drill.  I have one and tried to figure a way to make it work and there was NO way, granted I have one of the small ones but I have also used the large ones that sit on the floor and most of these would not have been any better.

I too have a built in level on my drill but there are things to consider with this.  1)  the surface you are drilling must already be sitting level or this will not help you at all  2)  you must have a steady hand to keep it level while drilling and personally I have a hard time doing this sometimes

Bottom line, I recommend the drill guide and forstener bit.

[ErikRuud]

Getting the CP to be level was not hard. I guess my hand was steady enough, because everything fit perfectly. A degree or two out of plumb is not going to effect things much.

[Pixelhugger]

I obsessed about accuracy/plumbness when drilling my button holes but realized when all was done that even if the hole in the wood had been a bit off (at a diagonal), I could easily have rounded it out/enlarged it (while leaving the hole in the lexan untouched) to give me enough "slop" to fit the button barrel through. The larger hole in the wood would be covered by my CP artwork anyway. My biggest concern should really have been ensuring no chipping/cracking in the plastic, since that is visible on a couple of my perfectly plumb holes!