Game Gauntlet - DONE!... well mostly.

[Mark70]

Hello everyone, I've bee mostly lurking for a couple of months. 

I've begun planning my mame cab.  It will have to wait to be built since I have a broken leg at the moment.  I'll probably end up building it in the basement this winter instead of the garage, since it will be cold by the time I'm done physio.

Anyhow, as an architectural professional, I'm hoping that my ability to previsualize using AutoCAD and 3dsMax will help me through without having to buy books.

This cab is based strongly on Kneival's Neon Mame.  I think it's one of the more elegant designs.

Here are a couple of the preliminary images.  I've decided on a 2x2 frame which should come apart into two manageable pieces once the side panels are off.  I'm toying with the idea of side panels like the Neon Mame, where the base has side panels of it's own and the arcade shaped side panels actually sit a few inches off the floor so you can turn the T moulding under and hide the joint.  Right now it's not set up that way, but the only change would be to add the low cabinet side panels and lengthen the shelves and cross panels by 1 1/2".  Right now it's 2'-2" wide between the side panels.

**old images linked to save on bandwith**
http://ca.geocities.com/mhowson51@rogers.com/mamecab.jpg
http://ca.geocities.com/mhowson51@rogers.com/mamecab-trans.jpg

The 3d modelling was done in AutoCAD and rendered in Autodesk Viz4.  I expect to make myself a set of full size patterns for pieces like the CP top, maybe even the sides depending on the cost of printing.  I'd have them printed at the local printers where we print for work.  I haven't been impressed with their colour printing capabilities thus far though so graphics (much much later) may have to be done someplace else.

This is the extent of my wood working experience for anyone who is interested.  This project is replacing the floor in a fibreglass boat.  This project was slated to be finished this September, but as with everything else, it's been put on hold by a broken leg.

http://www.shareaproject.com/pages/projectTut,p,96,00.html

Incidentally, this shareproject site is a really good way to post project pictures.  I thank the crew at www.iboats.com for showing it to me.

[AceTKK]

That's an awesome model, I wish my AutoCAD skills were up to your level. 

[Mark70]

I realized that doing the side panels this way gives a great freedom of design.

[turbopsi]

I like the top right and bottom left examples. The bottom middle example is also growing on me the more I look at it.

I'm a big fan of  Kneival's Neon Mame and simalar cabinets.

Good luck.

[rockworm]

The bottom middle one for sure.

[BobbyG66]

Top right

[PetitMorte]

I like the top-right too...

can you put a big cool-looking hump on the back?   

[Mark70]

Bottom middle is virtually the same as the neon mame.

Top right is similar to the ultracade look.

They are my favourites as well.

Anyone have any suggestions of other shapes?

[igbeserk]

do you have like schematics on it and all. i want to make one like the middle bottom. i want to make a 4 player arcade.

[Mark70]

do you have like schematics on it and all. i want to make one like the middle bottom. i want to make a 4 player arcade.

I'm not in the business of selling plans.  I don't have working drawings done up for it yet but I could easily do them.

There are a couple of problems.  #1 I'd want kneival's permission since it's so similar to his neon design.  I don't know if the keyboard drawer uner the cp is the same or not, but still...

#2 I have a broken leg right now and I've started looking at refurbing an existing cab instead of building from scratch.  I may not end up doing plans for myself anymore.  If I did do them for myself I'd more than likely hand them off to you, but as things are now, I'd being doing them specially for you if I were to do them.

I guess the short answer is, "no".  I don't have schematics for them right now, but I may soon.

[Mark70]

Toying with the idea of getting the coin door more accessible.

[Mark70]

now that I look at them here, it doesn't really work on the neon style cab

[Flinkly]

i think you should build all of them and then choose, you could even switch them out when one got boring...

but seriosly, i kinda like the top left and bottom middle ones from that 5-option posting.

[Pixelhugger]

Those last renderings are very very very cool. I love the dimensionality and multilayeredness ()of them.

[Mark70]

Ok I added in a curved marquee and adjusted the size.

[Flinkly]

if it was me, i'd do something creative with the bottom edge of that side peice of wood, like one of the earlier designs.  i mean, if it's not going to go all the way to the bottom, why not make it interesting?  it is still unique though, so you don't need to change anything...

[Mark70]

if it was me, i'd do something creative with the bottom edge of that side peice of wood, like one of the earlier designs.

[Bumblebounces]

What's the tightest radius anyone's bent T-molding around?  Those are sharp points right now and you'd see a cut in the T-molding, but something tells me that they'd be less effective with a 1" radius on them.

I have never done it but I would think that if you sliced the "T" off of the back side for the duration of the radius, it should curve it nicely.  Of course, you will have to make sure that when the "T" resumes, it will need to be pulled tight before being hammered into the slot. 

Bottom line, I would perform a test with a small scrap wood piece cut to a similar angle and some T-molding you can afford to waste.  If you're happy with the results, you have your answer.

Nice design ideas.  Keep the pics and ideas coming.  You're inspiring the masses.

Good luck

Bumble

[AceTKK]

Pixel got it right; the "multilayeredness" is what makes that design look so cool.  The Mortal Kombat cabs have the same look and I've been toying around with a similar derivative too.  Again, I wish I had your AutoCAD skills as most of my design work has been pencil and paper. 

Something to keep in mind is that your cab will be extremely heavy with that kind of design.  You basically have an extra half sheet of wood used for the concealed sides.  That extra material, along with a full internal frame, might make the whole cab too heavy to move easily.  That's less of an issue if the side panels are removeable.

-Ace-

[Mark70]

I looked into buying someone else's mame cab.

[TOK]

Love those two designs with the pointed bottoms. Of the two, I think I like the single pointed one just a bit better. The only thing I can think of that would make them look cooler is a control panel contained totally within those sides instead of hanging over. Since your panel isn't even a huge one with a large overhang, it doesn't appear you'd be sacrificing anything.

[Pixelhugger]

I love those curvy flame panels. I miss the three sided kick panel though.... or maybe it could be a bow front kick panel like the cp and marquee.....

Anyhow... very very cool!

[Mark70]

A lot of what I researched and learned here has changed what I want in my cabinet.  I'm tending towards a traditional CP now that doesn't overhang.  The quick connect CP topic is what inspired that; and that I like the classic look with white sides with side art and black middle.

I'm probably looking at a total redisign and I'll end up doing a very classic looking cabinet, but good ideas come out of these concepts, so I may keep doing a few.

A bowfront kick area would be interesting.  I'd just have to figure out how to mount the coin door in a curve.

[Mark70]

Here is what I will probably go with.

It has the Mortal Kombat CP on it, but the cabinet is modified underneath the CP so it doesn't look like a pregnant lady.

**old images linked to save bandwidth**
http://ca.geocities.com/mhowson51@rogers.com/cabinet.jpg

buddy there is 72" tall or 6'-0"

[Mark70]

hm, nobobdy reminded me that the front edge of a Mortal Kombat  CP is moulded and I wouldn't be able to use lexan with t moulding on my CP.

Redesign.

[Mark70]

Ok,

I think that this is the final design.

Would appreciate some comments.

[KonkeyKong]

mmmmm....KonkeyKong likey.  I dig the way the side panels flare out a tad as they go up to the control panel.  The way the rounded marquee echos the rounded control panel is also quite pleasing to the eye.  Nice attention to details here, sweet renders as well.  Any ideas on color schemes yet?

[AceTKK]

It looks cool, very nice.

[Mark70]

...more bandwidth issues with my crappy ISP.

[TOK]

I think about 25" is about the minimum two full sized dudes could play at. This panel with a 3" trackball is 27.5 inches and its fine for two players.
Its all smudged up, and I moved the admin buttons off the panel after letting kids play it (they'll smack at ANY button), but its a similar layout and size to what you'll be doing. This one is also contained fully within the side panels of a cab.

[Mark70]

Are those pinholes around your supers for a restrictor plate?

Damn I love the look of the illuminated translucent trackballs, but man what a price. 

I have my mouse (trackball) buttons above it.  What do  you think about trackball button location?

[vader]

Mark,

I think those are just bolts and not restrictor pinholes.  Looks like he just went with the top mounted option.

The translucent balls are really nice and they can be had for 80.00
on ebay or cheaper, thats where I got mine. Here's a link

http://cgi.ebay.com/3-Happ-Trackball-Red-Blue-Green-Black-USB-PS-2-plugs_W0QQitemZ6217711179QQcategoryZ13718QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

On the trackball buttons, just wire them up to your player one buttons since you will only use those buttons in Windows anyhow, will cut down on your clutter, just a idea.

Tim

[TOK]

Thats correct... Those are black allen bolts with rounded tops. Wanted a really solid feeling panel, so I used 3/4" MDF. Top mounting worked out best. I routed out the panel for the mounting plates, but at the time I built it I wasn't aware that I should have routed it deep enough for the dust washers too. 
The picture doesn't do the Happ ball justice. It's lit with 3 red LED's and glows fiery red. The downside to the red translucent is that it looks pukey orange unlit.
 

[Mark70]

Unfortunately I've already purchased my trackball, and secondly, $80 US is about $110 - $120 Canadian, for me plus any tarifs/duty for bringing it across the border.  It probably works out to about the same as the CAN$150 to buy them locally.

[Mark70]

Ok,

So I just finished accurately laying out the

[Mark70]

Actually I forgot the space for the mounting plate.  At the very least I have to leave room to route it in under the lexan.

[TOK]

I still occasionally bump my hand on the Player 2 stick on my panel playing Golden Tee. The joystick center is 7" diagonally from the Player 2 joystick center. That's a worst case scenario, its fine for everthing else. You'll adjust to it quickly, first time players might have a bit of a learning curve.
I have a buddy that's kind of a control spaz, he hits the sticks every time. He also moves his body about 3 1/2 feet side to side playing Robotron, so you know he's a worst case scenario. 

[markrvp]

Why not bring the joysticks closer to the user so that the handles are in line with the center of the joystick?  That makes it easier to miss the player 2 joystick in Golden Tee.

[Mark70]

Why not bring the joysticks closer to the user so that the handles are in line with the center of the joystick?

[Mark70]

mock up pics added.

**old images linked to save bandwidth**
http://ca.geocities.com/mhowson51@rogers.com/mockup1.JPG
http://ca.geocities.com/mhowson51@rogers.com/mockup2.JPG