Storing replaceable control panels

[RTSDaddy2]

Hey y'all,

If this is the wrong place to post this, feel free to move it - wasn't quite sure!!

When we initially set out to do our project, we thought about a rotating control panel, ala Frosty's or 1 Up's, even the Secret Aracde's design.  We decided as newbies, and talking with some of the guys that have been around a while, that we really didn't want to mess with that.  As the control top just attaches via velcro, it really isn't that hard to remove if we wanted to.

We also are doing this in order to have a nice flat control top for when we're just watching TV.  Question is has anybody else done this and how / where do you store them to protect the wiring on your panels with the joysticks, trackballs, etc.

RTSDaddy2

[Flinkly]

inside the cabinet via a door on the back.

[NoOne=NBA=]

I was planning to build a dowel rack for mine, before I switched to a modular system.

My plan was to have a series of dowels spaced at the right height to prevent the controls on one panel from hitting the next panel.

After going modular, I have MOST of my modules in a 2-drawer filing cabinet--right next to my cab.
There are all the other modules however.
My ultimate plan is to have a storage cabinet dedicated to holding all this stuff, once I finally get my "arcade" together.
I've got cabs spread out all over the house at the moment.

[Samstag]

I put a [mostly] hidden door at the front bottom of my cabinet.  I'll be using pull-out drawers to hold my modular panels.

[MustardTent]

I put a [mostly] hidden door at the front bottom of my cabinet. I'll be using pull-out drawers to hold my modular panels.

That's what I would like to do.  But, do you have a coin door?  If so, is the front of your cab completely taken up by the coin door & CP storage?

[dphirschler]

I will make a custom shelf to store the extra cpanels on.  Also, each of my cpanels is funnly enclosed and will act as a stand-alone cpanel for use on another computer.


Darryl

[Samstag]

I put a [mostly] hidden door at the front bottom of my cabinet. I'll be using pull-out drawers to hold my modular panels.

That's what I would like to do.

[KenToad]

Also, each of my cpanels is fully enclosed and will act as a stand-alone cpanel for use on another computer.


Darryl

Now that's an idea that I want to see implemented.  Good luck with it, Darryl.

Cheers,
KenToad

[MonitorGuru]

Here's a random thought but I'll post it here:

For those of you using swappable panels.. if you don't want to use latch clips like the original games (make you reach behind the coin door and flip to remove/lock to tighten) you could use the super powerful magnets out of old dead hard drives!

These ceramic magnets are incredibly strong, and you could mount 2 to 4 of them on either end under/behind the control panel and then put metal plates on the panel to connect to.  Their magnetic field is very limited and directional so they should not affect a monitor nearby.

This way you can just "pop" the old panel off and put the new one on and have it snap in place as you hear the magnets attach.

[telengard]

I have modular panels which are probably a little smaller, but I bought one of those heavy duty storage cabinets and the modules fit just fine.  There is a pic at the bottom of this page:

http://users.adelphia.net/~bsturk/mame/controls.html

I keep it right next to the cab:

http://users.adelphia.net/~bsturk/8bit/pics/comp_room/8bit_storage.jpg

Might not work for very large panels.

~telengard

[RTSDaddy2]

In regards to the size of the panels, I think that's my problem. Our cabinet is roughly 32" to 33"  to accomodate our TV.

[Doc-]

I store mine in the back of the cabinet - The cabinet slides easily on the felt covered leveling feet I installed - so I just swing it out when I need some more panels.

See the second picture on this page:
   http://www.beersmith.com/mame/panels.htm

Doc-

[markrvp]

I just want to say that Doc & Telengard have two of the coolest cabinets I've studied.  I love how easy it is for them to have whatever layout they need to play a game just the way it should be played.  I'm building multiple complete panels now (because I like artwork on the panel), but I hope to implement this method on a future cab with a smaller CP footprint.

Telengard was also extremely helpful and friendly when I asked him some questions about his cab a couple of months ago. 

Great job, guys!

[RTSDaddy2]

Doc, thanks for the pics!

RTSDaddy2

[Doc-]

No problem!
 
One item I forgot to mention - I originally just put two rails in of the right dimension for the modules to sit on, but that did not work well as they could easily slide and fall through the space between the rails.

I then added some molding that rises above the rails on both ends (measured to the length of the panels).  This allows the panels to be locked in place so they don't slide around and accidentally fall through.

Here's a cheap diagram - side view:

y                                         y
yxxxx                             xxxxy

The rails are 'xxx' and the molding is 'yy'

Cheers!
Doc-

[Dire Radiant]

Wow, that's a neat solution Doc! If I may hijack this thread for a moment, are you worried about the fit of the dowels on your modular panels becoming sloppy over time?

[RTSDaddy2]

I really like that Doc.  Do you have any problems with the dowels bending the wires on your CP's (I'm guessing they are spaced far enough apart that this is not a problem)?

RTSDaddy2

[Doc-]

Hi,
  As far as slop - I have not had any problems with slop yet and the panels have been completed for over a year.  Six to eight year old kids regularly change the panels out without adult supervision.  If one of the panels were to get excessively loose I would probably either shim it or just cut a new panel out. 

  So far I have had to replace zero panels.  I did have to cover one with vinyl again, but that was only because a visiting kid actually peeled the vinyl off it.

  As for replacement panels (when needed).  The panels are very easy to make if you have access to a table saw and drill press.  You can cut as many as you want in an hour, and then drilling one and fitting it takes perhaps 10-15 minutes.  The wiring is probably the most time consuming part, but for a replacement panel I would just unscrew the old control and bolt it onto the new panel.

  As for the wiring - no the dowels never intersect with the wiring.  The wiring all goes into the space between the two dowel rails, so there is no pulling. The wires are stapled to the bottom of the panels to serve as a strain relief (see any of the close up pictures off the bottom of a panel).  The wires are long enough so that you can lift a panel up with one hand and remove it from the modular plugs with your other hand. 

  You can show a kid how to do it and they will be changing panels in a few minutes.

Cheers!
Doc-

[richms]

I was thinking of making the whole front of the cab (coin door and all) become a big drawer that pulls out. I dont know the problems I would have with the draw being so tall and deep, but Im sure its doable. Then, the draw would have space for 4 panels stored lengthways along the cabinet.

[patrickl]

I'm planning on a making the coindoor area a big drawer too. I saw some kitchen cabinets that do the same. They have these deep drawers which can be filled pretty heavily. I saw that and thought it would be perfect for holding my CP's.

I'm thinking about storing them vertically in the drawer.