The Legend of Mame (updated 06-03-2006)

[Veinman]

I finally got my art back from mamemarquees.com. The print job is BEAUTIFUL. I told Scott that I was putting the CPO under lexan and that he could print it on whatever he felt would give me the best color. He chose a very heavy glossy paper that is not adhesive-backed. As you can see, I threw the marquee at the bottom just to see how it would come out. I doubt I will get to use it since the paper isn't very translucent.

A huge lesson here: allow for variances between your art, your construction, and the printer. Don't expect to have things line up just perfectly. In my case, one of the few button labels that I did print came out a bit low. Even worse, the entire CPO printed out a quarter inch too short!! Luckily I was able to work around this by using extra green from the waste in the corner that got cut off. That was a close one.

I would have gotten farther tonight, but I had some house stuff to do, and I feel like hell at the moment.

Still, I think the art looks great, and will look even better with some controls on it.

[Bones]

Looks really good but I am wondering if the dust covers will hide the faces in your artwork?

[Veinman]

You should have more faith in me.

I thought of that and allowed for it. The characters are strategically placed to not cover their faces.

[Bones]

You should have more faith in me.

I thought of that and allowed for it. The characters are strategically placed to not cover their faces.

Outstanding. 

[dweebs0r]

The CP art looks really good. 

Great job.

-Dweebs

[Veinman]

Here's the CP with all the controls thrown in. I still have to get a few microswitches installed. Those are not so fun to install. I can also say that I was very happy that I bought the button wrench. Spend the $2.

Hopefully I can make some good progress on wiring this weekend.

[M.A.M.E Power]

Hey Veinman

Really nice work, I am also going to build a black cab with red t-molding, but with a completely different theme. I am currently in two minds as to whether I should design my own CPO or purchase one from slikstik (please forgive me), I have limited knowledge when it comes to wiring etc, is this something that is picked up fairly easily?

Also if I did purchase a CPO would I have to get the artwork installed first before the buttons?

Thanks
Lea

[Veinman]

I'm going through the wiring phase right now, and it's fairly straight-forward. I say that not knowing if mine will work.

As for the artwork, yes it needs to go on the control panel FIRST. Here is the order I did things:

1. Put control panel overlay on
2. Cover it with lexan
3. Install T-molding
4. Install controls
5. Install IPAC / Druin board
6. Wire it all (still doing that one)

[Veinman]

Anyone interested in my wiring adventures can check out the project page here: http://www.hotseatgames.com/cabinet . It's going fine, but I'm still trying to get my rotary sticks to work. They work just fine as joysticks, but I don't have my Druin board working yet.

My friend is bringing over a volt meter to see if I am correctly getting power to the board.

I also ran out of quick disconnects, so I ordered another bag of 100 from Peale. I had previously purchased 100, and it turned out that I needed about 106.

[Varao]

I cant wait to see this cabinet finished. Great progress images and descriptions its going to help my project out quite a bit!!

[markrvp]

Anyone interested in my wiring adventures can check out the project page here: http://www.hotseatgames.com/cabinet . It's going fine, but I'm still trying to get my rotary sticks to work. They work just fine as joysticks, but I don't have my Druin board working yet.

My friend is bringing over a volt meter to see if I am correctly getting power to the board.

I also ran out of quick disconnects, so I ordered another bag of 100 from Peale. I had previously purchased 100, and it turned out that I needed about 106.

What did your voltmeter readings indicate?

FYI, I just tried hooking up my P360s to a Minipac.  The ground on the 9 pin header didn't work, so I had to take 5v off that header and hook the ground to the regular ground that the other buttons go to.  That worked, so now I am a little leery of the 5v to ground hookup off the 9 pin header.

[Veinman]

My friend is supposed to be bringing his volt meter over tonight, actually. * crosses fingers

I'll try the regular screw terminal ground if the volt meter reads okay. My friend is more electrically inclined than me, so I'm sure he can figure something out.

[Veinman]

The rotary issue is now resolved. I ended up using a new connection that was a DIY single pin connection. Details are on my project site, but here it is in use:



I took your advice, markrvp, and chucked that ground pin. It didn't work for me either. I also switched to the bottom 5V pin since the top didn't seem to work either.