Main Restorations Software Audio/Jukebox/MP3 Everything Else Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements Monitor/Video GroovyMAME Merit/JVL Touchscreen Meet Up Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing Woodworking Software Support Forums Consoles Project Arcade Reviews
Automated Projects Artwork Frontend Support Forums Pinball Forum Discussion Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board controls.dat Linux Miscellaneous Arcade Wiki Discussion Old Archives
Lightguns Arcade1Up Try the site in https mode Site News

Unread posts | New Replies | Recent posts | Rules | Chatroom | Wiki | File Repository | RSS | Submit news

  

Author Topic: OND's other projects  (Read 2715 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Ond

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2326
  • Last login:November 13, 2024, 08:47:49 pm
OND's other projects
« on: August 13, 2024, 06:14:09 am »
Last two days have been like an early Spring after a forever Winter. I have this queue of non-arcade projects I've been looking forward to getting back to. This thread is for those, and for anyone who feels like following along.

First one up will be this new media server I wanted to build. I've made a few home cooked Kodi servers in the past. You can buy cheap media boxes here and there, Fire TV Sticks, Android  stuff etc. I like to design and build my own because I can add features to suit my other gear plus make something I like the look of. I got this idea to use modular 3D printed parts along with other materials. Oh yeah, my original plan was to use a Kodi server for streaming, video and music. Then I discovered Volumio and decided to build two matching units, one for video (Kodi player) and the other for music (Volumio player). It's a lot easier to switch a dial between source inputs on my AV amp than it is to fiddle around in Kodi to switch audio settings between digital and analog, but more on that later...

The heart of this is a Raspberry Pi 5. Able to run 4K video at 60fps and paired with a M.2 ssd drive instead of an SD Card. Faster and good for much read/write the NVME SSD seems a good choice.

To start with, some way to connect one of these drives is needed.


It has a fragile ribbon cable connection onto the Pi so needs to be well supported. The media servers are based on 300x300mm sheet aluminum and 3D printed parts. All components can be screwed down onto the base panel.


The Pi 5 will be mildly overclocked to crank the best (reasonable) performance out of the CPU/GPU. That will mean some heat has to be managed with cooling. At the same time I want the enclosure to be as slim as possible.


My plan is take air from underneath using a very quiet 80mm fan and then pass the airflow over the Pi and out the back of the unit.

A 3D printed sort of manifold can do this.
 


Fitted like this:


The 3D printed parts are made up of corner pieces and edge lengths that slot together. Ultimately these will be painted in the same colors as the plastic.


Each edge has screw fittings for the base plate.


The rear panel has cutouts for connector fittings.


Next, fitting the extra hardware for audio management.

Zebidee

  • Trade Count: (+9)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3324
  • Last login:December 01, 2024, 05:56:49 am
Re: OND's other projects
« Reply #1 on: August 14, 2024, 04:29:48 pm »
Enjoying your projects as always. Love the creative 3D printing. Pieces that go together like lego.

Lots of extra room inside - planning on adding anything?
Check out my completed projects!


jeremymtc

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 234
  • Last login:November 19, 2024, 12:47:57 pm
Re: OND's other projects
« Reply #2 on: August 14, 2024, 05:30:49 pm »
This is very cool!

I'm pretty uninformed when it comes to modern 3d design and printing. Does the modeling software you use have a library of primitives for things like port openings or mating/mounting flanges, or must that all be designed by hand each time?

Ond

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2326
  • Last login:November 13, 2024, 08:47:49 pm
Re: OND's other projects
« Reply #3 on: August 16, 2024, 04:23:47 am »
Enjoying your projects as always. Love the creative 3D printing. Pieces that go together like lego.

Lots of extra room inside - planning on adding anything?

Thanks for the interest Zeb, there's a few other things I need to fit into the 300x300 space including power supply, digital audio extractor, dc to dc regulator and maybe one or two other bits I've forgotten for the moment. Then there's cables and wiring of course. I'll try and cover all that in pictures and words in a way that makes sense. These media servers tie back to a NAS. At the moment that's just via Wi-Fi, my longer term plan is to hard wire the network connections for better data speeds. In raw plastic and metal the look of these is just so-so IMO. The final product nicely finished should look pro.  I'd rather you guys take the journey with me than just posting them all done?

This is very cool!

I'm pretty uninformed when it comes to modern 3d design and printing. Does the modeling software you use have a library of primitives for things like port openings or mating/mounting flanges, or must that all be designed by hand each time?

Thanks jeremymtc! That's OK, I've been learning to design for 3D printing in only the last few months. I've had a lot of experience using 3D design software over the years but zero experience on the printing side. Until recently I didn't know there was any difference in 3D file formats for fabrication using printers or CNC etc, but there is. There is a lot of ready made objects you can access when you're designing. For instance, electronic parts suppliers often include 3D files for stock they sell (available for free download). You can view these in free CAD programs or SketchUp etc. For my part, in this project, everything is scratch drawn and designed. I'm forever measuring things with calipers and then doing test prints to make sure port openings etc fit. I often don't sleep too well these days. Instead of counting imaginary farm animals I work through design ideas in my head until I pass out  :lol Those interlocking parts are an example of that.

This thread will document not just these first few projects but quite a few others as well. No sense in creating new posts in the Everything Else sub forum. Just join me here from time to time to see what's new. I'll happily juggle my arcade projects with these.

Other things on the horizon:

•   Cooking with OND  :laugh2:
•   PCB design (+getting them manufactured) for fun and maybe profit.
•   Building the ULTIMATE high fidelity loudspeakers, not my design BTW.
•   Turntables and vinyl records (I've never owned a record player - until recently, and I've got less than half a dozen records).

For some of these projects I'm a newb learning. I'll be asking you guys for advice here and there.



jeremymtc

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 234
  • Last login:November 19, 2024, 12:47:57 pm
Re: OND's other projects
« Reply #4 on: August 16, 2024, 11:24:00 pm »
Thanks jeremymtc! That's OK, I've been learning to design for 3D printing in only the last few months. I've had a lot of experience using 3D design software over the years but zero experience on the printing side. Until recently I didn't know there was any difference in 3D file formats for fabrication using printers or CNC etc, but there is. There is a lot of ready made objects you can access when you're designing. For instance, electronic parts suppliers often include 3D files for stock they sell (available for free download). You can view these in free CAD programs or SketchUp etc. For my part, in this project, everything is scratch drawn and designed. I'm forever measuring things with calipers and then doing test prints to make sure port openings etc fit. I often don't sleep too well these days. Instead of counting imaginary farm animals I work through design ideas in my head until I pass out  :lol Those interlocking parts are an example of that.

Thanks for the info! It will be neat to follow along on this. I totally get you on the constant background thought process when you're immersed in designing and building stuff, but there's nothing like it when a new solution presents itself and proves out. I think that feeling is almost more rewarding than the actual completion and use of whatever it is that's being built  :cheers:

Other things on the horizon:

•   Cooking with OND  :laugh2:


I'm here for the Ond's buttered toast recipe and build log!

Ond

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2326
  • Last login:November 13, 2024, 08:47:49 pm
Re: OND's other projects
« Reply #5 on: August 17, 2024, 08:08:19 am »
... there's nothing like it when a new solution presents itself and proves out. I think that feeling is almost more rewarding than the actual completion and use of whatever it is that's being built  :cheers:

I agree! But I've also got to be a bit wary of that feeling, I'm a notorious non-finisher.  :-[

Good progress on the Kodi media server today. I'm using two power supplies in this. One is the dedicated Raspberry Pi 5 PS and the other is just a 12v generic DC PS. Both have been removed from their original plastic cases. The generic PS provides power to the fan and, via a DC to DC converter, 5V power to an HDMI audio extractor. I'm fixing these parts into this 3D printed enclosure to isolate the mains AC voltages from anything metal. I'm not grounding the AC supply so these AC voltage parts need to go back into insulating plastic.


Here's the HDMI audio extractor module. It takes its input from one of the HDMI ports on the Raspberry Pi and provides optical digital audio to a (pre HDMI) Denon AV Amplifier I want to use.


Here's the complete set of parts, wiring and cables packed into the enclosure:


3D design and printing lets me make accurate port fittings and component joinery. I used to hand cut ports and panels in previous enclosures but no more!


The aluminum top panel will be primed and painted black. All black panels will be in matching matt black finish.


Before I get to the surface finishing I'm going to run it for a few hours to make sure the Pi CPU/GPU stay cool enough and Kodi runs properly.
The front panel will get some LED light fittings and a custom on/off button.

Ond

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2326
  • Last login:November 13, 2024, 08:47:49 pm
Re: OND's other projects
« Reply #6 on: August 19, 2024, 12:14:54 am »
I'm happy with the bench test of the Kodi Server, overclocked at 2.7Ghz CPU and 900Mhz GPU. Average temperature after running video for around 30 mins is about 33 degrees Celsius (91 degrees Fahrenheit) which is fine.

I'm putting some extra write up effort into the front panel/button setup, with lots of little parts making up the result.

The parts coming straight off the printer are rough with filament layering showing. That's ok as parts on display will be surface finished and painted later on.
Here's most of the parts that make up the front panel:


I'm using a momentary push button as the base for the larger custom button. When I'm designing parts I use digital calipers to try and stay accurate.


That way the printed parts should fit snugly together. Sometimes I have to adjust and re-print a few times to get it right.

The button sits in this housing in which the larger button fits also.


To give  the panel an interesting 'glow behind' look I've designed these cutouts with the addition of some matching raised shapes. Here I'm fitting them in place.


Again, the parts look a bit rough close up, but its a good indicator of things to come.


The rear view of the panel shows how a translucent part can be fitted. In fact there will be two translucent layers here. One in red acrylic plastic and the other in so called clear PLA. If you look closely on the left of the panel you an see the hex nut fitting has broken. These are too thin and will need to be strengthened. That's fine, I'm learning as I go. I'll make some changes to the edge panel design to include stronger screw fittings and provision for two layers of backlight plastic. If I was hand making parts, doing things over would take forever. Adjusting and printing again takes minutes.


I'm going to backlight this panel with red even illumination, should look nice!



PL1

  • Global Moderator
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9545
  • Last login:Today at 07:18:59 am
  • Designated spam hunter
Re: OND's other projects
« Reply #7 on: August 19, 2024, 05:11:55 am »
If you look closely on the left of the panel you an see the hex nut fitting has broken. These are too thin and will need to be strengthened. That's fine, I'm learning as I go. I'll make some changes to the edge panel design to include stronger screw fittings and provision for two layers of backlight plastic. If I was hand making parts, doing things over would take forever. Adjusting and printing again takes minutes.

Beefing up the hex nut fitting is a good start.

Changing print orientation may also help.

I assume you printed that part oriented face-down, right?
- If you look at the hex nut fitting in "layers" view, you'll see that the individual layers at the middle of the nut are very narrow so the part will break very easily when torque is applied to the nut. (left)
- In this orientation, that torque is like a martial artist breaking a board with the grain -- it's very easy to do.

If you print the same design in the upright orientation, the print path for the layers of the hex nut fitting will solidly trace around the nut so the part might deform a bit, but it won't break anywhere near as easily. (right)
- In this orientation, the same torque is like a not-so-smart martial artist trying to break a board against the grain.
- The only downside to this orientation is if your printer can't handle the overhangs with the angled cutouts.  The inner ones should be fine, but the outer ones might be too extreme.

Worst case, you might need to adjust the cutouts or make some other design choice like the nut clip braces mentioned here.


Scott

Ond

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2326
  • Last login:November 13, 2024, 08:47:49 pm
Re: OND's other projects
« Reply #8 on: August 21, 2024, 04:52:07 am »

Beefing up the hex nut fitting is a good start.

Changing print orientation may also help.

I assume you printed that part oriented face-down, right?
- If you look at the hex nut fitting in "layers" view, you'll see that the individual layers at the middle of the nut are very narrow so the part will break very easily when torque is applied to the nut. (left)
- In this orientation, that torque is like a martial artist breaking a board with the grain -- it's very easy to do.

If you print the same design in the upright orientation, the print path for the layers of the hex nut fitting will solidly trace around the nut so the part might deform a bit, but it won't break anywhere near as easily. (right)
- In this orientation, the same torque is like a not-so-smart martial artist trying to break a board against the grain.
- The only downside to this orientation is if your printer can't handle the overhangs with the angled cutouts.  The inner ones should be fine, but the outer ones might be too extreme.

Worst case, you might need to adjust the cutouts or make some other design choice like the nut clip braces mentioned here.


Scott

When you're looking at putting any parts that come out of a 3D printer under stress this is good advice. Layer orientation does make a difference. In truth, my hex nut holder design was rushed and a bit lazy. I have beefed up the fitting Scott. Apart from trying to think in terms of the limitations of a filament printer, I'm also trying to take advantage of printing face down on a smooth plate. Smooth flat surfaces mean less effort and better results in the final product finish. In this case making fittings thicker and stronger should be fine. Take a look at the design image below. You can see the original hex nut support on the left is pathetically thin. Not much torque on the nut needed to break that!


The revised panels are already printed. I have to work a few days and then it's back to the fun!  ;D The Volumio server will be very similar in looks to the Kodi Server. They can both be stacked one on the other and look cool. Whilst off-the-shelf media servers running Kodi are quite cheap to buy, a branded Volumio Primo is not cheap at around $899 US.

https://shop.volumio.com/product/primo/

 Building my own will be way cheaper, look better IMO, and have a similar high quality DAC on board with added volume control as well.

PL1

  • Global Moderator
  • Trade Count: (+1)
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9545
  • Last login:Today at 07:18:59 am
  • Designated spam hunter
Re: OND's other projects
« Reply #9 on: August 21, 2024, 05:51:39 am »
Apart from trying to think in terms of the limitations of a filament printer, I'm also trying to take advantage of printing face down on a smooth plate. Smooth flat surfaces mean less effort and better results in the final product finish. In this case making fittings thicker and stronger should be fine.
Looks great.   ;D

The only thing that might not work as well as you'd like with that design is if you're using it to attach both the top and bottom panels, you might accidently push the nut out of the holder while loosening or tightening the screw.

One way around that is to use heat-set threaded inserts -- if you try them you'll love them.



If you want to stick to commonly-available hardware, consider captive hex nuts.

A great design option for captive hex nuts is to make a slot as thick as the nut and as wide as flat-to-flat on the nut like the one shown on this wheel.
- The nut drops into the slot then a machine/set screw goes through the side of the hub, through the nut, and tightens against the axle.
- An optional printed plug, retention fingers, tape over the slot, or a drop of hot glue in the slot will keep the nut from sliding sideways out of the slot if you tilt the case during assembly/disassembly.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21486




Scott
« Last Edit: August 21, 2024, 06:25:26 am by PL1 »

RandyT

  • Trade Count: (+14)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6986
  • Last login:Today at 09:02:54 am
  • Friends don't let friends hack keyboards.
    • GroovyGameGear.com
Re: OND's other projects
« Reply #10 on: August 21, 2024, 09:26:26 am »
When you're looking at putting any parts that come out of a 3D printer under stress this is good advice. Layer orientation does make a difference. In truth, my hex nut holder design was rushed and a bit lazy. I have beefed up the fitting Scott. Apart from trying to think in terms of the limitations of a filament printer, I'm also trying to take advantage of printing face down on a smooth plate. Smooth flat surfaces mean less effort and better results in the final product finish. In this case making fittings thicker and stronger should be fine. Take a look at the design image below. You can see the original hex nut support on the left is pathetically thin. Not much torque on the nut needed to break that!

As I am sure you know, there are many things which affect strength and suitability of a printed part.  While orientation can play a role in layer adhesion, it's probably not the largest factor.  Infill, wall thickness and just plain using the correct polymer to achieve the "toughness" required, all come into play.  While changing orientation can provide a certain amount of benefit, it can also increase material usage, time for printing and post processing, as well as overall part aesthetics.  All of these need to be weighed against each other to find the correct approach.  Ultimately, much can be achieved with regard to strength simply through appropriate part design, regardless of the other factors, and this is usually the most effective, as stresses are rarely unidirectional.  I.e. a weak part for a given material will be weak regardless of the manner in which it is produced.

I am also a proponent of threaded inserts for parts which will be assembled and disassembled repeatedly, even though there have been some tests which show that directly threading into the polymers with fasteners is nearly as strong (and much simpler/ less-costly), provided the part is designed properly, and the fastener is correct for the job and is not over-tightened.  But again, "horses for courses", as they may not always be the proper choice.

If you do use heat set inserts, the best way to use them is to size the holes such that a bit of the molten material is extruded upward when the insert is set slightly below the surface, and a cool, flat object is used to flatten that material to be flush to the surface of the part, thus encapsulating it within.  This is most important where "pull-out" is of concern, but needs to be done well when parts are expected to be tightly mated to those surfaces, otherwise just the action of tightening the fastener could advance the insert from it's position and weaken the hold.  In that case, you might want to leave them slightly proud with the heated tool, and then use a cool, flat surface to press them flush.  This really helps to make them as perfect as possible.

BTW, your parts look great.  Happy to see that printer you chose is working out well for you :)

Ond

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2326
  • Last login:November 13, 2024, 08:47:49 pm
Re: OND's other projects
« Reply #11 on: October 02, 2024, 07:37:06 am »
I knew about threaded inserts for wood but not heat set ones for plastic. There you go, I'm always learning. There will be a project in which I use them for sure  :cheers: @ Randy & Scott.

I'm nearing completion of the Kodi media server so here's a few pics before final assembly. The 3D printed parts have all been smoothed, primed and painted.  They look less like typical filament printed parts now. They're a bit slicker, more solid in color, and smoother.

I changed the design of the power button a little so that when pressed, the Kodi logo will glow from a backlight LED along with the cutouts either side of the button. Better than just a solid plastic button IMO.



Next pics will be of the completed project. A few final things to do on this are cutting out the acrylic inserts which are fitted to the inside surface of the front panel for the red glow effect, wiring a fuse into the AC supply, final paint touch-up and assembly.

Since this thread will cover multiple projects I have coming up, I think I'll mark the start and end of each with a banner or something so it's easier to tell one project from another.

I'm working on three different speaker pair builds (along with other projects) at the moment. All are based on professionally designed high-end cabinets, crossovers and drivers. They are not my designs BTW.  I'm undecided on what to post of these. This isn't a DIY sound equipment forum, but I know there's at least a few members here that are into that. Hmm, :dunno  ;D


bobbyb13

  • Trade Count: (+2)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1960
  • Last login:Yesterday at 03:46:02 am
  • I believe I may need an intervention
Re: OND's other projects
« Reply #12 on: October 05, 2024, 01:13:48 pm »
Very fun to stumble onto some Ond content!
Sure I'm late to this, but work is in the way of everything right now.

The elements to make things more than just utilitarian are the details I love the most.
Elegant embellishments on the form follows function paradigm are always so cool.

I at least will look forward to seeing some speaker unit production!
Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools! I can fix it.