After conversing with Fusselkroete, I'm even more stoked about his software. I never even realized that the gyro was being utilized. One thing I can say is when I can get it to do it's magic on my setup, it works great.
RE: Bluetooth.
Usually when there is a Bluetooth problem, it either A: doesn't connect at all or B: there is a lack of connected device support. Neither of which seemed to be happening, so I assumed that it shouldn't be the source of the issues, because at times, it worked perfectly. However, having dealt with similar issues personally with different USB chipsets, it's not beyond the realm of possibility that the Bluetooth implementation (in my case, a modern Intel Wireless chipset) has some differences from the implementation used in the vast selection of known working BT USB dongles. If Fusselkroete can pinpoint that source of contention, then great, but until then I will be picking up the same dongle he uses, to aid in testing. Either I'll have a perfectly working setup with portability between systems as a result, or I'll be able to remove it as a possibility for what I have been seeing. Either way is a positive, as the adapters aren't costly
But honestly, I am not convinced that BT is the cause of the behaviors I am seeing (I won't refer to them as "issues", because I haven't done any actual gameplay testing yet, and it's unlikely to cause major problems). As of now, I have tested with
4 different bluetooth adapters. 1 which connected perfectly with the native Windows Bluetooth stack. I have also tested with 3 other "generic" USB dongle BT adapters through the Toshiba Bluetooth stack. 2 of these connected up right away, while 1 was a little more problematic in getting the Toshiba stack to talk to it. However, all were tested and showed exactly the same behavior, tested with two different Wii remotes.
Were I to guess, and let me stress that I am
, my guess would be that the algorithm which processes the acceleration values is at the root of the undesirable behavior. But thankfully, Fusselkroete has been very responsive and is "on the hunt" for a solution. For that I am grateful, as this setup works
nearly perfectly and I am excited to put it to use.
RE: LEDs.
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WARNING: Do things the way you want and don't think that just because it works for me, it'll work for you. Parts and installation skills vary, so test everything to make sure it meets
your standards for safety and reliability. The following is not a recommendation!
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With that out of the way, I just thought I would provide an update on my LED install. The 6.5v supply and the 4 850nm LEDs
soldered in series with
18ga wire to act as a de-facto heat sink, terminated to a 1/4w resistor labeled as .1 ohms, seems to be working just fine. The LEDs are warm, as is about 3" of the connecting wires on each side of the LED, but not approaching anything I would consider hot. The 2.5amp supply I selected barely gets warm even after many hours of being powered continuously. On the 50" screen, I am able to be 10' away and still have them visible to the camera. So, I'm pretty happy with the way this has been working out so far.
However, with this type of setup, the wire will affect things, so that's important to consider. A fraction of an ohm of resistance will change how much power the LEDs get, and the wire is sinking heat from them. Therefore, differences in length and gauge will very likely show different overall results. Anyone deciding to go this route should
at minimum check operating temperatures of everything on occasion, and definitely place an appropriately small fuse in-line in case something were to go wrong. And be sure to turn them off when not actively being used or unattended. If one of the LEDs should happen to stop consuming it's share of the power and passes it on to the others, the rest will get real hot, real fast, so a
current limiting device such as the one used by BadMouth is a much safer approach.