Fixed vs. Plunge Router...

[Iori]

I am thinking about getting a router in the near future so I can route the 1/16" gap for t-molding on my current project.  The thing is I am not sure what type is best for this.  Is a fixed/table router or a plunge router the way to go?  Will the both work for this and which of them will be easier for this job?

Also in the future I would love to be able to use the router for cutting holes for cp's though this isn't necessary as I do have ways of doing this without the router.  Can both types be used to do this or just the plunge type?  Thanks for the help...

[Zakk]

Get the plunge, lots of versatility, and you can easily lock the router in a fixed position, so that it can be used as a regular router.  

[crashwg]

I'm not completely up to speed with the names of routers, but if by "plunge router" you mean handheld and you're trying to decide between handheld and a table router, I'd go with the handheld.  It just seems more logical to move a <5lb. router around your >40lb. piece of mdf/wood, and also if you need to do any routing after things are assembled, it would be alot easier to use also.

[Witchboard]

I've seen plunge routers come with a table before so you can do either with one tool.

[Iori]

I've seen plunge routers come with a table before so you can do either with one tool.

Thanks for the feedback everyone...  sounds like one that can be removed from the table would be best.  Cost will be a bit of a factor though so if those are too expensive I might just go for the hand held one, which works good for me as it will work well for doing holes in my next cp.  I still don't exactly understand how I am going to use the router to do the cutting for the t-moulding though.  I assume that the handheld ones have some sort of guide that you can attach to them and adjust to the width of the wood to keep you on track?  

[crashwg]

I hope this picture explains it all, but if it doesn't just ask what you are un-clear on.

the purple thing is a 1/16 slot cutting bit which can be found pretty cheap here:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_slot.html

Item #5341 or #7641, depending on your router.

[Zakk]

Well there are fixed base, plunge and table mount routers.  All can be mounted in a table, but the plunge offers the greatest versatility.  You can lock the base and mount it in a table, use the plunge feature to countersink joysticks and drill buttons and plexi, and set the depth and use the t-molding bit to cut your edges.

 It takes a bit of practice to do a good t-molding groove.  I've done quite a few, and I find it easier than I thought to get "off track".  be sure you have goggles and maybe even a mask when you do it, as I noticed cutting the molding grooves created more dust than almost anything esle...especially if the cabinet is upright for some reason...I was spitting out sawdust for a week!

 Not trying to make up your mind, I have both a fixed base and a plunge, and I realey use the fixed base one.

[Iori]

Thanks crashwg, that makes everything much clearer...  Sweet!

[Witchboard]

Yes, thank you.  I've been wondering how everybody was doing that but hadn't run across it yet.  Not that I'm at that point in my project, but it's good to know. ^_^

[Iori]

Well there are fixed base, plunge and table mount routers.  All can be mounted in a table, but the plunge offers the greatest versatility.  You can lock the base and mount it in a table, use the plunge feature to countersink joysticks and drill buttons and plexi, and set the depth and use the t-molding bit to cut your edges.

 It takes a bit of practice to do a good t-molding groove.  I've done quite a few, and I find it easier than I thought to get "off track".  be sure you have goggles and maybe even a mask when you do it, as I noticed cutting the molding grooves created more dust than almost anything esle...especially if the cabinet is upright for some reason...I was spitting out sawdust for a week!

 Not trying to make up your mind, I have both a fixed base and a plunge, and I realey use the fixed base one.

Thanks for the tips, sounds like I will need to do a good deal of practice before I really get going with this...  Good thing I kept all that scrap

[NoOne=NBA=]

What makes a plunge router a plunge router is NOT that it is handheld.
It has big spring loaded guides on the side that will let it PLUNGE into the top of the board.

You set the base part of it on the board, and then push down, and the bit cuts its way into the top of the board.
You don't want to try that with a fixed base router, trust me.
It CAN be done; but can get REALLY ugly, REALLY quick too.

Here is a fixed base router, and here is a plunge router.

The base thing on the right is the plunge router attachment.
The router base kind of rides in that.

[Teknique]

bought a fixed just for this project, didnt need a plunge router and it cost alot less.  Ryobi had one for 70 bucks at Home Depot.  Results were great!  Spend you money on all those dang bits you need ($$$).   Use your drill for pilot holes then the router.  Unless your planning on doing alot more woodworking projects and want an slightly easier way to do things, go with the fixed... afterall were not millionaires here.

Teknique

[eightbit]

Fixed base router is often lighter and smaller than a plunge and is usually cheaper. For t-slots your better off with the fixed base.

What is nice about a plunge router is depth adjustment. Often if you want to sink a recess into a board or route a lot off you need to do it in serveral passes. With a plunge router you make a pass pull a lever push it down a little and make another pass. You keep doing that untill you get to the depth you want. With a fixed base router you have to shut it down and adjust the height for each pass.

I have a plunge router, I do a lot of woodworking...

[mp2526]

Fixed base router is often lighter and smaller than a plunge and is usually cheaper.

I don't know, this is pretty cheap for a plunge router.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47937

Maybe not the best quality, but for the limited amount of routing most people on this forum do, it should do the job nicely.

[Buddabing]

I got a Craftsman all-in-one cutting tool kit for Christmas last year. It's got a plunge router attachment. I used it for my son's Pinewood Derby car. It sure beats a chisel, which is what I had to use after my bit broke.

The kit also includes a hole saw attachment, I've never used that.

Here's a link to the original kit, which is what I have:
http://www.sears.com/sr/craftsman/whatsnew/cr_ct_cooltooldetail.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@1192305238.1075476231@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccdladckiellddgcehgcemgdffmdflh.0&vertical=TOOL&Tool_Id=26

The all-in-one kit sold now also includes a flexible shaft, to which you can attach Dremel-compatible bits. Mine doesn't fit in the case, but I believe the newer cases do fit the Dremel shaft. Dremels are wonderful tools.

[PedroSilva]

Hi,

Here's another option ... the advantage is that it solves other power tool problems ...  

http://www.dremel.com/html/home_fr.html

[Jakobud]

You know for a little standalone control panel I made over Christmas for a friend, I didn't have a slot cutting bit available to me so I just got a thin table saw blade and ran all the edges of the control panel top along the blade and it turned out perfect.  I was suprised it did such a nice job.

[Iori]

More to think about...  So it is possible to use a fixed router to route holes for buttons and what not?  But, it is harder to do?

[Zinfari]

If  you plan on using the router to do holes for buttons... go plunge.  However I always drill mine out so what I would recommend is a laminate trim router.  Much less expensive.  Light weight and still PLENTY of power for the T-moling notch.  They are so much easier to work with unless you need additional power.  It's the only router I used for my cab and of course if you are doing laminate... you already have the perfect tool for trimming that as well.  A router will work, but again the trim router is less $ and much lighter.

-Zinfari

[Iori]

Can a laminate router be bought at a Home Depot or other regular hardware stores?

[Zinfari]

Also if you can at all help it don't try to make your t-molding cut with the cabinet verticle.  I have no doubt that Zakk has gotten off track by doing this especially (no offense intended Zakk, but it takes a lot of practice and proper bracing to use a router at orientations other than the normal flat surface) if he is using a full size router.  Even with a trim router it is difficult keep on track if you can not lean into your cut a bit.  Take the time and lay the cabinet down so you can apply pressure to keep the base/blade in the correct place.  

-Zinfari

[Zinfari]

Yep.. Got mine at Home Depot.... Porter Cable $99. (I think although I see them for $110-$115 online now)

http://www.portercable.com/index.asp?e=547&p=2832

It's 10lbs lighter than typical routers... only 3.75lbs.

-Zinfari

[eightbit]

Can a laminate router be bought at a Home Depot or other regular hardware stores?

Harbor freight sells a laminate router for $19.

[Zinfari]

funny... and that one is only 2.5lbs....  never heard of Chicage Power Tools... but this is all lightweight stuff you are asking it to do including the T-molding.  Probably worth a look espeically if this is the only reason you are getting one.

-Zinfari

[NoOne=NBA=]

Also if you can at all help it don't try to make your t-molding cut with the cabinet verticle.

I agree here.
Flop the cab on its side (after padding whatever it will lay on, so you don't end up having to resand it), and do it that way.
It is alot easier.

I just got a thin table saw blade and ran all the edges of the control panel top along the blade and it turned out perfect.

That would work until you hit an inside curve, but I'm not steady enough to even try it without building a really tall rip fence/featherboard combo.

[Spaced Invader]

never heard of Chicage Power Tools...

I have this one...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=43585

It is extremely sturdy and has worked great with everything I've thrown at it...I no problem recommending Chicago Tools, if that helps.

I wasn't sure either (never heard of Chicago Tools) but they offered a 1 year replacement warranty for 6 bucks extra...I got it, just to ease my mind. It's been over six months (still cuttin' perefectly) and I'm sure I won't need it.

[Iori]

Ended up getting a Chicago Trim Router.  Pretty cheap and very light and small.    Now just have to wait for the bits to come and I am sure I will have more questions then!    I am not really sure how I can use the guide to cut the T-molding right now.  It seems that no matter how I set it up it will be too far away to be able to cut...  so it looks like you have to sort of  (not really) free hand it?  Just brace the trimmer along the side and keep it level?  Thanks everyone!  

[Wienerdog]

Here is a fixed base router, and here is a plunge router.

The base thing on the right is the plunge router attachment.
The router base kind of rides in that.

Actually, your link for the plunge router is a special pack from Porter cable, a good choice if you have the money or will be continuing with woodworking.  It is a GREAT idea to spend they money to buy good tools.  Consider the Chicago Electric tools to be disposable.  They should work for this project, but the electrics are lower quality and everything on the tool is cheap.  If you buy that Porter Cable router package, you can expect to be using it 25 years from now.

Having said that, I've had a dedicate Porter Cable plunge router and a fixed base Craftsman.  The Craftsman fell apart after 4 years, and I had a piece break on the Porter Cable (from overtightening the chuck).  I assume Porter Cable will fix the part at no cost, but I haven't taken it in yet (I just have to use two wrenches to get the bits off).

Here is another link to it:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0000DCBKN/qid=1075783212/br=1-1/ref=br_lf_hi_1//103-1014182-4379825?v=glance&s=hi&n=228432\

[slicer_d]

I used my friends old sears router something like it would have costed 30-40 bucks and it worked like a dream.  It was just a regular fixed router.  If you plan on doing alot of cab/cp work then maybe the plunge would be nice but probably twice as expensive.  You can really do all the simple stuff like rout step downs for joys and t-molding with a regular router but plunging would be nice and some stuff might be easier but not much on an arcade cab.

[ThePaul]

Can a dremmel be used to cut the slot for T-Molding? Assuming you use the router attachment of course.. ?

[eightbit]

Can a dremmel be used to cut the slot for T-Molding? Assuming you use the router attachment of course.. ?

Are you talking about a traditional dremel or the newer rotary saw (like a roto zip) that dremel has out. The rotary can do it, the traditional dremel won't do it very well and several people here have reported burning up their dremel trying.

If you really only need it for this one project try renting one. Most tool rental places will have them but you'll likely still have to buy the slot bit.

[eightbit]

Ended up getting a Chicago Trim Router.  Pretty cheap and very light and small.    Now just have to wait for the bits to come and I am sure I will have more questions then!    I am not really sure how I can use the guide to cut the T-molding right now.  It seems that no matter how I set it up it will be too far away to be able to cut...  so it looks like you have to sort of  (not really) free hand it?  Just brace the trimmer along the side and keep it level?  Thanks everyone!  

A slot cutting bit has a bearing on it. So you hold the router flat on the top of the board and press against the edge. The bearing will hold it at the proper depth.

Make sure you always cut against the cut. This means go counterclockwise around the peice. I also recomend at the bare minimum that you read up a little on using a router. Get a book or read one of the many introductions on using a router from on the internet. The router is different than a saw or a drill and has different basic safety techniques.

[Iori]

A slot cutting bit has a bearing on it. So you hold the router flat on the top of the board and press against the edge. The bearing will hold it at the proper depth.

Make sure you always cut against the cut. This means go counterclockwise around the peice. I also recomend at the bare minimum that you read up a little on using a router. Get a book or read one of the many introductions on using a router from on the internet. The router is different than a saw or a drill and has different basic safety techniques.

Cool, thanks.  I'll try and find a website.... if anyone has a link to one the recommend that would be cool too.  

[ThePaul]

Can a dremmel be used to cut the slot for T-Molding? Assuming you use the router attachment of course.. ?

Are you talking about a traditional dremel or the newer rotary saw (like a roto zip) that dremel has out. The rotary can do it, the traditional dremel won't do it very well and several people here have reported burning up their dremel trying.

If you really only need it for this one project try renting one. Most tool rental places will have them but you'll likely still have to buy the slot bit.

I guess what I am talking about is this job:
http://www.1-home-improvement.com/rotary-tool-accessories/Dremel-330D-Router-B0000302YA.html

Looking at it though.. I'm not sure how it would work to cut a slot for the T-molding. It seems tha tit would work to cut the recess for a trackball mounting plate though.

[hyiu]

I own both a dremel and a router... and my personal opinion if I could do it again is...

forget about the dremel... just put all the budget into the router.... its far better.... don't get hot quickly.... stable...steady...

just make sure you also get some ear plugs....

ok... if you're playing with some very small projects... cutting some plastic project box.... maybe.... dremel might be better in a sense its smaller....

but I find the router kick --I'm attempting to get by the auto-censor and should be beaten after I re-read the rules-- in all ways....

if I knew before hand... I would not get the dremel.... just the router....

again... this is purely my personal opinon... take it at your own risk....  

[eightbit]

Can a dremmel be used to cut the slot for T-Molding? Assuming you use the router attachment of course.. ?

Are you talking about a traditional dremel or the newer rotary saw (like a roto zip) that dremel has out. The rotary can do it, the traditional dremel won't do it very well and several people here have reported burning up their dremel trying.

If you really only need it for this one project try renting one. Most tool rental places will have them but you'll likely still have to buy the slot bit.

I guess what I am talking about is this job:
http://www.1-home-improvement.com/rotary-tool-accessories/Dremel-330D-Router-B0000302YA.html

Looking at it though.. I'm not sure how it would work to cut a slot for the T-molding. It seems tha tit would work to cut the recess for a trackball mounting plate though.

That would work for very light duty router jobs. Many people have reported burning out the hand held routers trying to use them for t-slots.  Its a very thin slot but its deep.

[Iori]

Got my router, bits and did the routing this weekend!    Thanks for all the help...    It all came in handy once I went to doing the cutting...